ob, the oxidizing process is the same for a 20mm mesh as for a 100mm mesh. Are you torching the mesh before you roll it? This might help some. Are you using ciggy paper under the coils and burning it off with a dry burn?
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ob, the oxidizing process is the same for a 20mm mesh as for a 100mm mesh. Are you torching the mesh before you roll it? This might help some. Are you using ciggy paper under the coils and burning it off with a dry burn?
Yeah, this is really weird and I'm having the same problem with my clone mini DID. I got one to wick good but the flavor and vapor are poor. I can't get the other Clone to work at all. Hot spots every time no matter what I do or how many times I try. No shorts, just hot spots. I'm getting pretty fed up with genesis and may just stick to the stringy type RA's. I get better results from my one and only one so far.
I rolled a 120mm wick with the #500 this morning. I just oxidized the coil end once. I really don't see much or any difference compared to the #400. They both work great, and I'm happy with both.
Yea no doubt.
So with thick capped atties it would be better to roll wicks that weren't jammed through the wick hole. The less wick touching the cap, the less adhesion.
What is meant my "thick capped atties"?
It is about the bottom plate (where the wick goes through), how thick that is and how much wick is actually in that hole which obstructs the flow of liquid.
It amazes me how everybody gets different results with the same method. The best wicking I've got is with a fat wick that I almost had to force in the wick hole and then capped off the top of the wick (folded it over) but still not flavor or vapor with my DID clone. When I tried a smaller wick where it wobbled around in the wick holes I got no wicking at all. I think I hate genesis.
It amazes me how everybody gets different results with the same method. The best wicking I've got is with a fat wick that I almost had to force in the wick hole and then capped off the top of the wick (folded it over) but still not flavor or vapor with my DID clone. When I tried a smaller wick where it wobbled around in the wick holes I got no wicking at all. I think I hate genesis.
I would not make the wick that thick to have to jam it in there as you will close the mesh holes by putting force on the mesh IMHO
But that is the one that wicked the best. Go figure!
Great, enjoy it!
So if we countersank the cap plate, we should get better wicking. Hmmm..
@ Quig: I don't do the fold over to get that clean edge, usually isn't an issue
Kind of stubborn aren't you, like it is so difficult to fold over a few mm.
LOL...if I spent 10 seconds to do the fold over on every wick I made that's like 15 mins of my life I may never get back, however time spent poking away at a coil is 18 days of my life well spent...ya, ya, whatever, my inpatients overrides my logic on most occasions
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Hmmm, not a bad idea...wish this popped up when I had my Line apart...though speaking of Lines, I polished it to a mirror finish the other day...looks cool, but the "Line SS" is gone now...oh well, I think I still know what it is...
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I've been following this thread since Jimi D and others pointed it out to me a few weeks or so ago. Lovin' the experiments and scientific approach to the mesh and coils.
Now that I'm caught up, I have forgotten half of what I read... chronic CRS!! ... and I have to ask a question that has probably already been previously discussed. My apologies, but here goes. How do I test the SS mesh with a multi-meter? I know nothing... not the setting on the gadget, not where the red clip goes, not where the grey/black clip goes... nothing. I hope you can help me.
Now that I'm caught up, I have forgotten half of what I read... chronic CRS!! ... and I have to ask a question that has probably already been previously discussed. My apologies, but here goes. How do I test the SS mesh with a multi-meter? I know nothing... not the setting on the gadget, not where the red clip goes, not where the grey/black clip goes... nothing. I hope you can help me.
Set the multimeter to 200 ohms on the dial and hold one lead, either color, touching part of the mesh (for example a non oxidized portion) and tap with the other in lots of various places (don't clamp) any numbers that pop up on the screen are bad, that means current is getting through and it is not properly oxidized. Good news is no readings whatsoever.
If your meter has a continuity function you can also use that. No beeping , no current and you're ready to go.
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