#500 SS Mesh

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TechJ

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I've found if I roll a wick then temper it, it makes it nice and stiff. At this point I can work it between my fingers to make the roll tighter. Just before I use it I verify my fit, re temper it a few times to build up a nice even layer of grey oxidization. It shouldn't be black, just a nice even gunmetal grey.

If you saturate your wick with juice befor working it to tighten it up it lubricates the mesh making it easier to get a tighter roll.
 
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horton

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Great idea using juice or VG to help get the wick tighter. This is what I just love about ECF..... so many intelligent people with great ideas willing to share them to help others have a better vaping experience. It is truly a pleasure to see the free exchange of information between members.
I know it has helped me avoid several big mistakes, I'm sure it has saved me $$ / time, and the enjoyment I get from making my own wicks, coils, mods, etc is priceless. (I'm starting to sound like one of those old credit card commercials...lol) Probably the best thing is knowing that there will always be some new idea out there to enhance the vaping experience.
Thanks to everyone who are so willing to help others improve their enjoyment of vaping.
 

tmcase

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tmcase

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glauserjg

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Ok guys, Just built a 100 mm 500 ss mesh wick for my z atty u no insulator on a lava tube at 4.2volts. Using 32 gauge kanthal and the coil is metering to 1.9ohms with a 3/4 wrap. I dont think I am getting any shorts but the juice is popping when I fire it up. The top cap also gets pretty warm when vaping. Should it crackle like that with no draw? Wicking is great and its a decent vape but I want to get it right. Using d&D vaper 100 percent vg berries and cream
 
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Victor Vandyke

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I'm no physicist, but I'm not sure you would get any capillary action with a solid sheet. That's what I'm assuming you meant in your post. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, bmarley, but I think you need some spaces for the juice to move up through the mesh to get to the coil. I may be way off base, but that is how I understand things. The way mfg's. keep coming out with smaller and smaller mesh, it wouldn't surprise me if we don't get to a point of diminishing returns in terms of the hole count. What is too small in order to still get capillary action going? I have no idea.
Again, I'm not trying to shoot down your idea, just opining about what might or might not happen.
Hope everyone has a great weekend!!!

My understanding of this is that mesh which would be too small to still have capillary action would need to have open area smaller than a molecule of ejuice. We're not even close... But yeah, a solid wouldn't work.
 
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Victor Vandyke

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Ok guys, Just built a 100 mm 500 ss mesh wick for my z atty u no insulator on a lava tube at 4.2volts. Using 32 gauge kanthal and the coil is metering to 1.9ohms with a 3/4 wrap. I dont think I am getting any shorts but the juice is popping when I fire it up. The top cap also gets pretty warm when vaping. Should it crackle like that with no draw? Wicking is great and its a decent vape but I want to get it right. Using d&D vaper 100 percent vg berries and cream

I'm guessing that the popping is boiling, if so then all is well, and as long as it's not your battery getting hot you should be fine as well. Crackle and pop with no draw is expected (even desired). You might want to try a "more efficient" 4/5 wrap, even with an ego battery though.
 
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Victor Vandyke

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Interesting my last order of 500 mesh came with a sample of 400x1144 i believe, its super stiff not sure how to roll it? Is this something new or have others seen this mesh?

Mesh co. throws whatever scraps they have to spare at us as a bonus. I think they're still trying to figure vapers out as a new vertical market for them and that's OK. I do get the impression that they sincerely want to make us, indiividually small volume customers, still happy customers of theirs and that's right on. The bonus is a freebie, fair enough. Let us know how it vapes if you go there with it.
 
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TechJ

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Oh wow I didn't catch the part about the ego battery. I don't know what kinda "c" rating they have on them. Might wanna be careful of going too low on your coil resistance.

Edit; oh lava tube no worries there. I don't know the current limit of them off the top of my head but it is far under the constant current draw limit of an AW IMR 18650.
 
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Njt07

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jeez finally read through the whole thread. I have a did clone coming in the mail, bought some 325 and 400 from mountain oak where i got hte clone and also ordered 2 sheets of 500 mesh. I have zero experience with mesh wicks, but ive been tinkering with my vaping stuff for a while now so now Ill have something new to tinker with.

One of my questions got answered while reading through 1459 posts which was unless im going to make a u shaped wick, which BJ says is inefficient, then I can cut a piece of mesh along the edges and roll it at a slight off set so that it makes a spiral, right? I can roll this along straight lines and not from the corner if I understand correctly.

Question 2 is, I looked on youtube for the oxidizing process and holy crap there are a lot of conflicting ways to oxidize a mesh wick. On here I read that I only need to oxidize the part under the coil. So, to make sure I have this right, I can dip my wick into some vg or pg juice, light it on fire, let it burn out and do this until the wick is a brownish color. Then I coil the wick and then do the dip and burn a couple more times then install, right? I currently don't have a torch, just a lighter.

As far as rolling the wick, I had a thought, Koreans make whats called Kimbap and they use a bamboo roller to make those suckers tight, couldn't we use a rubber mat to do the same for the wicks?

Thanks for any advice.
 
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