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Thank you to all who have posted in this thread. I've read every post and finally caught up. I'm a huge fan of actual testing. 
I have my Cobra, though I left it at home while traveling. When it's back in my hands again and I get my 500 and 28 and 30 kanthal I'll report results.
I have my Cobra, though I left it at home while traveling. When it's back in my hands again and I get my 500 and 28 and 30 kanthal I'll report results.
I've got 32 ga... and some 28 ga coming via kwalka's generosity. Now I need to get a spool of 30 ga A-1 to round out my 'arsenal'. 
Thank you to all who have posted in this thread. I've read every post and finally caught up. I'm a huge fan of actual testing.
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you can make it FullFlavored Kind a Guy,
1. Clamp the M3 screw in a vice.
2.Cut a shelved slot with a fine grinding disk from a Dremell kit.
3. Insert screw thread partially into drill chuck, and apply sandpaper or a hardened file to sand down the width of the screw head so it fits inside the topcap without hindering the seating of the cap.
4.Cut a Biro spring in half or a bit less (I used around a third of the spring.
5.Slide Biro spring over threads and screw into place (screw in carefully for the first few turns as the screw can act as a thread tap and ruin the thread in the atty if you are careless, but this has not happened to me yet, just that I'm aware it could if care isn't taken)
6. Adjust screw clockwise until you get little or no leaking but still get good wicking.
7. Once you have found your sweet spot, turn the screw clockwise until it fully compresses the spring counting the turns as you go, then when you remove screw to refill, and then replace it you can turn it all the way in clockwise, and then turn it out anticlockwise the same number of turns you counted earlier. This will give you repeatable results with that current wick and coil setup.
What would be nice is to have a cap with a tab that you can twist to cover the fill hole when not vaping, and untwist to vape. If that makes sense.
Of course, the mfgs have a hard enough time lining up the air hole, I guess they could never line up the air hole and a tab inside the cap. Although, some one on ECF could probably modify one to do this.
Thanks LucidAce, interesting information at your link.
Based upon those posts, seems like its worth spinning some Cisco style coils. I am in.
I have been lurking in this thread for quite some time and just wanted to thank you all for helping me reach vaping nirvana. I put 500 SS mesh in an AGA Hydra RA (discount vapors) with 28g kanthal wire and have it on a Smoktech 5v Woo and it's just perfect,the best vape since I started. I really think high voltage is necessary to achieve the capillary action in my experience anyway
Have no clue. Will the enamel holdup in the juice? If the enamel burns are the fumes harmful?
I've done some enamelling at uni. It melts at around 800 degrees Celsius. What temperature do kanthal and nichrome wire turn red hot at? Enamel is food safe when hardened, but I can't see any reason to use it on a coil. Even if kanthal gets red hot at a temperature way under 800 degrees, my logic would tell me that it would hinder the heat, taking the coil longer to hit the appropriate temp. I'm no expert though, might be wrong.
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right..that is the question....if that is all good and it performs well no oxidation needed as enamel is non conductive I think
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