#500 SS Mesh

Status
Not open for further replies.

CountSmackula

Genisis Junkie
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 16, 2012
8,946
23,516
BFE, KY
The smaller ones are commonly known as the Chid/DuD/mini-DiD "clone", and are being sold as the Griffin ($22), the Vulcan ($19-21), COV Gen1 ($12), MOV V3 ($20). I have 5 of them & like 'em a lot. Set up at ~2Ω, they're great on Twists.

But better than that, IMO, is the Chobra (Cobra clone), a mid-size rba. I have 3 up & running right now. I know DV sells them for ($25). I bought mine in a co-op for less tho'. I run these on my big batt mods, as well as the AGA-T.

The Big ones you see posted lately are the AGA-T, but it is a hefty beast and not suited for smaller PVs - again IMO.
 
Last edited:
The smaller ones are commonly known as the Chid/DuD/mini-DiD "clone", and are being sold as the Griffin ($22), the Vulcan ($19-21), COV Gen1 ($12), MOV V3 ($20). I have 5 of them & like 'em a lot. Set up at ~2Ω, they're great on Twists.

But better than that, IMO, is the Chobra (Cobra clone), a mid-size rba. I have 3 up & running right now. I know DV sells them for ($25). I bought mine in a co-op for less tho'. I run these on my big batt mods, as well as the AGA-T.

The Big ones you see posted lately are the AGA-T, but it is a hefty beast and not suited for smaller PVs - again IMO.

After finally 'figuring' out the SS mesh thing and getting my 2nd CHID up and running beautifully with 1.5-ish Ohm coils and solid 500#SS mesh wicks, I ordered an AGA-T end of last week - it arrived this morning and I just build a coil and wick for it - thing is vaping excellently already on my i-Taste but yeah - it's a chunky beast isn't it?!?


DV
 

majekh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 26, 2010
348
539
Wisconsin
I have a 5ml Cobra also. My problem I can't get it to wick. Using #500 mesh. Do you have any suggestions?

I am using #400 mesh, so I can't comment about the $500.
I leave the fill screw out so that the tank can breath and I'm using 70% pg / 30% vg liquids.
The wicking is great for the 1st half of the tank. I find that I have to tilt more (3 o'clock or so) for the rest. I think that that's due to how large the tank is and how long the wick is.

When you say that you can't get it to wick, can you elaborate?
 

nnormandy

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 2, 2011
109
121
St. Paul
Quick question, I'm using the Dud/Chid. I was using a 50/50 blend with good success, but decided to try some Boba's in it. Not wicking enough, surprise. I'm using a solid 500 mesh wick, with an outer layer of 325, because just 500 shorts out on me for some reason. Anything I can try to get some better wicking? I have the fill screw open.

I'm using the same wick, but I burnt off the remaining other juice and cleaned my tank. It it possible that the wick needs to break in all over again, and I'll get better wicking as it "seasons"?
 
Last edited:

chuckh

Full Member
Verified Member
Jul 15, 2012
37
18
74
Southern California
I am using #400 mesh, so I can't comment about the $500.
I leave the fill screw out so that the tank can breath and I'm using 70% pg / 30% vg liquids.
The wicking is great for the 1st half of the tank. I find that I have to tilt more (3 o'clock or so) for the rest. I think that that's due to how large the tank is and how long the wick is.

When you say that you can't get it to wick, can you elaborate?

When using a solid wick like a 60mm x 50mm rolled tight , the liquid won't even make it up to the coil even when it's tilted. The wick slides easily through the wick hole. I roll my coil around a drill bit. When I check for shorts and hot spots, the coil glows evenly. I use 60%PG 40%VG. Oh yeah, I also leave the fill screw out. What size do you make your wick and do you leave a hole through the center? My Cobra is on a Provari. I'm new to RBA's and it so frustrating.

Thanks for your help
Chuck
 

majekh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 26, 2010
348
539
Wisconsin
When using a solid wick like a 60mm x 50mm rolled tight , the liquid won't even make it up to the coil even when it's tilted. The wick slides easily through the wick hole. I roll my coil around a drill bit. When I check for shorts and hot spots, the coil glows evenly. I use 60%PG 40%VG. Oh yeah, I also leave the fill screw out. What size do you make your wick and do you leave a hole through the center? My Cobra is on a Provari. I'm new to RBA's and it so frustrating.

Thanks for your help
Chuck

I am certainly no expert when it comes to mesh wicks, so others are welcome to share some advice.
The GOOD news is that you are not fighting with hot spots (shorts).
I started rolling 40mm wicks with decent results and continued to work up from there.
My current setup is 70mm of 400 mesh with a tiny hole in the center.
Try only filling the tank 3/4 full, tilt at 3 o'clock and see if the liquid is wicking. Some break in may be required however, you should be able to see the liquid saturating the wick.
Have you had success with smaller diameter wicks?
 

majekh

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 26, 2010
348
539
Wisconsin
Chuck,
Not sure if this will help or not, but here is a picture of what is working for me.

20121203_234407_HDR.jpg
 

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82
Quick question, I'm using the Dud/Chid. I was using a 50/50 blend with good success, but decided to try some Boba's in it. Not wicking enough, surprise. I'm using a solid 500 mesh wick, with an outer layer of 325, because just 500 shorts out on me for some reason. Anything I can try to get some better wicking? I have the fill screw open.

I'm using the same wick, but I burnt off the remaining other juice and cleaned my tank. It it possible that the wick needs to break in all over again, and I'll get better wicking as it "seasons"?

Some tests I did with Bobas.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/348672-635-mesh-2.html#post7855737
 

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82
This thread has grown so much and has gotten away from its original topic of what wicks best (capillary action) I have seen all kinds of setups but science is science. And denser, no center hole wicks better. I no longer use any wick less than 75mm and most are in the 100mm range.
From the beginning:
If you want juice to flow going down by gravity, a loose wick with with a big hole flows the best but that is not true wicking. That is gravitational flow.
Wicking (capillary action) defined as a fluid rising against gravity is best with a tight dense 400 ss wick with a very small center hole.
I am now using # 500 ss on all my lines and it is twice as efficient at wicking as #400.
In a simple lab test I put 3 inch same dia wicks in 2 inches of VG and 3 more in 2 inches of PG and 3 in 2 inches of kerosine. This new test I used 325, 400, 500 SS mesh. The kerosine only rose 1/16 in on the 325 and not measurable with PG or VG. I put a little dab of cotton on the top tip of each wick to see when it got wet. With kerosine the cotton got wet almost immediately on both 400 and 500, pg took 2 min to wet the cotton on 400 and and less than a minute on the 500, the VG took about 30 seconds longer on each. Using small jars with a hole in the metal cap for the wick I made mini kerosine burners. Even with prewetting the 325 it would not maintain a flame. The flame on the 500 was twice the size of the flame on the 400 and consumed the kerosine in half the time. All were 45mm rolled by 3 inches long, rolled tight on a thin paperclip. All rolled mesh to 2.5 mm dia,
In an earlier lab experiment I did a three #400 wicks 35mm, 45mm, 55mm, rolled to 2.5 mm dia and on the kerosine lamp test each progressively maintained a larger flame.
From my simple tests I concluded.
More density in the wicks provided more wicking and therefore more juice to the coil
comparing oranges to oranges
PG will rise higher in a 400 mesh than on a 325 mesh.
Vg will rise higher in a 400 mesh than on a 325 mesh.
On the same 400 wick PG will rise higher than VG because of cohesion forces, but it will not rise higher on 325 than on 400,
And now all rise higher and faster on 500 mesh, and now even better with 635
 

LucidAce

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2012
587
393
right about here, USA
I wanted to share this clip from last night's episode of Vape Link with Zen as the guest, but ECF doesn't like shortened URLs and that's what youtube spits out when you select to share at a particular time stamp. The part in question starts at 1:22:10. Zen fields a question about his reasoning for going with an insulator in his devices and the limitations on wick size imposed by that insulator. I know there are many people who have removed the insulator, and I don't doubt the benefit of doing that to make a larger wick. I'm mostly curious what some of you would say in response to his reasoning for having the insulator to begin with. Again; skip to about 1:22:10 to see this portion.

 
Last edited:

LucidAce

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2012
587
393
right about here, USA
Everything Zen says is true, and a Porsche will go 60mph on a VW beetle engine. He still recommends on his site, tipping to improve wicking. No criticism but I like more pure wicking.:toast:

I agree and am very pleased with having an SS mesh wick rather than an SS mesh juice conduit.

What do you make of his stance that an insulator is a good idea, because you end up "sinking current to ground" if you don't have one and make you also make your wick "crispy" and waste battery life.
 

BJ43

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 27, 2008
5,896
7,212
82
I agree and am very pleased with having an SS mesh wick rather than an SS mesh juice conduit.

What do you make of his stance that an insulator is a good idea, because you end up "sinking current to ground" if you don't have one and make you also make your wick "crispy" and waste battery life.

Nitpicking, true but so little almost irrelevant. To each his own, I also prefer a true wick to conduit.:)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread