#500 SS Mesh

[motelgrim]

So after a few days with a solid core wick on a bored out AGA-T (with ibtanked glass tank), I can officially say I've found the best vape to date and is a benchmark, now, that future vapes will be compared to. Not that my previous builds were terrible, but by comparison, they were ......ed children.

Thanks BJ, Studiovap, et al for all your efforts.

 

[proteckt3d]

Made a wick today using this mesh and my liquid turned green after half an hour. I've been reading around about liquid turning green and the best explanation was that the PG might react with the chlorine from the tap water that I used to clean the rba before the setup. Also when it turn it upside down to drip a couple of drops, I can see there are some brown very fine particles in the liquid and it was clear, light amber before. Could these particles come from this new wick that I made today?

 

[tmcase]

Made a wick today using this mesh and my liquid turned green after half an hour. I've been reading around about liquid turning green and the best explanation was that the PG might react with the chlorine from the tap water that I used to clean the rba before the setup. Also when it turn it upside down to drip a couple of drops, I can see there are some brown very fine particles in the liquid and it was clear, light amber before. Could these particles come from this new wick that I made today?

Try using distilled water to clean your RBA and see if your juice still turns green. That would narrow things down a bit. I've never heard of this before.

 

[proteckt3d]

I could be that it appears green in the tank. I think I'm going to burn liquid on the wick 2-3 times and see if the that takes care of the particles. I haven't done that just pre-oxidized the mesh before rolling and then oxidizing again before making the coils. I burned used some rolling paper under the coils, could that mean something?

 

[BJ43]

Made a wick today using this mesh and my liquid turned green after half an hour. I've been reading around about liquid turning green and the best explanation was that the PG might react with the chlorine from the tap water that I used to clean the rba before the setup. Also when it turn it upside down to drip a couple of drops, I can see there are some brown very fine particles in the liquid and it was clear, light amber before. Could these particles come from this new wick that I made today?

Did you wash the mesh with detergent first, I wash with detergent then boil once in detergent water and boil again in clean water. The machining oils in the mesh are not removed with just burning, residues remain.

 

[proteckt3d]

Actually I didn't wash it and the 'stuff' in the juice does look like machining oil. That would explain why it changed color also, although I haven't took it all out yet, just a few drops and those drops don't really look green...

 

[AndAllThingsWillEnd]

Any tips for getting rid of a top coil hotspot?I literally spent from 4pm to 2am trying to get rid of mine. Is it because its not wicking properly? I haven't boiled my mesh yet, but no matter how much prodding I do it just lights up every time...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[meatsneakers]

Take it out and re-oxidize. Sometimes I find that re-wrapping a coil that refuses to stop shorting works - maybe the heat cycles ruin the alloy, who knows. Also start at a very low voltage, like 3v, and work your way up. Even if it's a hot leg on the top, it can take the 3v for a few seconds and you can see what works without blowing it out.

 

[wolcen]

Any tips for getting rid of a top coil hotspot?I literally spent from 4pm to 2am trying to get rid of mine. Is it because its not wicking properly? I haven't boiled my mesh yet, but no matter how much prodding I do it just lights up every time...

Not sure what you are using, but when you go to tighten your center post, maybe you need to be pulling the wick away from it a little, or else screwing the bottom nut up to tighten rather than the top one down to avoid the extra stress that can be placed there from the action of tightening those.

 

[MikeE3]

Any tips for getting rid of a top coil hotspot?I literally spent from 4pm to 2am trying to get rid of mine. Is it because its not wicking properly? I haven't boiled my mesh yet, but no matter how much prodding I do it just lights up every time...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Are you wraping the pos lead 'counter-clockwise' around the post? This will help eliminate pulling on the lead and making the top coil too tight around the wick. Is it just the top coil glowing or the bare lead and top coil?

If my lead and/or top coil glows, I've fixed it by pulsing the power on/off at low volts 1/2 doz to a doz times, sometimes more. Then hold it on to see what's glowing. The on/off pulses oxidize the wick under the non-glowing coils and you can actually watch as the coil/wick settles in and 1st the top coil glows brightly and the rest don't light up. Then the 1st 2 coils begin to glow, ya just keep working at it. Keep pulsing on/off and eventually all the coils will light up at the same intensity.

 

[AndAllThingsWillEnd]

Thanks guys, I just wanted to point out that the top coil is only an issue when I put juice in. That's why I'm not sure if its not wicking or if its a coil issue.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[tmcase]

Thanks guys, I just wanted to point out that the top coil is only an issue when I put juice in. That's why I'm not sure if its not wicking or if its a coil issue.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

I had this problem also and it was because the juice wasn't wicking up high enough so that very well could be your problem. What mesh are you using? 500 fixed that problem for me. The other problem I had was leaving to much wire/leg to the pos post.

 

[AndAllThingsWillEnd]

#500 tight with Alien Visions Hype which is 90% VG. I'm using my Z Atty Pro I got yesterday.

 

[Matt M]

I just moved from a genesis clone with a relative small dia wick (2mm ish) to a DID D16 with a huge wick hole (3mm I think).

I'm not getting anywhere near as much vapour. Is it because of the size of the wick acting as a heat sink or have I done something else wrong? Anyone else using solid #500 in a DID got any tips for me?

Matt

 

[AndAllThingsWillEnd]

Heat sink effect. Raise your voltage.

 

[proteckt3d]

Did you wash the mesh with detergent first, I wash with detergent then boil once in detergent water and boil again in clean water. The machining oils in the mesh are not removed with just burning, residues remain.

I'm still having problems with this wick, although I did wash and boiled a piece of mesh in detergent today, oxidized and rolled the wick, replaced the old juice in the tank, and when I hold the rba upside down the liquid still comes out with a darker color. Can this be due to oxidation? Washing was definitively an improvement but the juice is still darker than the one in the bottle.

 

[Envithyx]

I'm still having problems with this wick, although I did wash and boiled a piece of mesh in detergent today, oxidized and rolled the wick, replaced the old juice in the tank, and when I hold the rba upside down the liquid still comes out with a darker color. Can this be due to oxidation? Washing was definitively an improvement but the juice is still darker than the one in the bottle.

This may not be your issue, but something to consider. If you are not heating the juice up fast enough to instantly vaporize it, you could risk just boiling it which will cause it to turn darker. Sometimes the mesh works too well and overwicks and also causes boiling. I had this issue for a short while when I switched to 500 and fixed it by changing my coil setup and then raising my voltage a bit more. At 12-13 watts now.

Something else to consider is if your wick is touching the top cap once installed, this could cause a short and again lead to just boiling the juice.

I hope it's a boiling issue darkening/changing the color of your juice and not a contaminant of some sort.

 

[Matt M]

Heat sink effect. Raise your voltage.

I'm using a mechanical mod! Less coils?

 

[tmcase]

#500 tight with Alien Visions Hype which is 90% VG. I'm using my Z Atty Pro I got yesterday.

I use 500 also and 100% VG and I keep having problems with that dreaded top coil hot spot. I haven't tried a washer yet. I've pretty much given up on mesh. The fishwick worked better but I'm really anxious to try ceramic.

 

[Envithyx]

I'm using a mechanical mod! Less coils?

Yes, or a smaller guage. Whichever lets you drop down in the desired increment. Also, you could use a higher guage wire twisted to achieve the same result.

What are you using now and what ohm reading are you getting? A good starting target would be a 1.2-1.5 ohm coil perhaps.

Edit: I should have clarified that if you drop down a guage, you probably will need to add a coil at the same time so you don't drop too far down in ohms. For example a 3/4 wrap of 32 AWG Kanthal on a 2mm wick might come out as 1.5 ohms, but a 4/5 wrap of 30 AWG Kanthal on the same wick would read closer to 1.2 ohms.