6v is not the answer HIGH DRAIN CELLS is the answer!!

[KingVapor]

To find the Amps, Take the mAH or AH rating and multiply it by the C rating.
For example, the 1600mAH LiMN battery is rated at 10C, so-
1600 * 10(C) =16000 = 16000 mA, or 16 Amp discharge rate- far more powerful than the 5.2 Amp discharge rate of the first battery.

The first battery is 2600 mAH and says max 5.2A discharge rate, so we do this one in reverse to find the C rating-
2600 * (C) = 5.2A (or 5200mA)
C = 5200mA/2600mA = 2
so the C rating of the first battery is 2.

Therefore, the first battery will last longer (2600mAH), but can not crank out as much power on demand (max discharge=5.2 amps).
The second battery does not hold as much (1600mAH), but can crank out over THREE TIMES (!!) the Amps on demand (max discharge=16 Amps!)

Hope this clarifies the funny ratings for you

I posted this somewhere in the pages of this thread. This is true, but keep in mind that ultrafire and trustfire like to post peak mAh values. Also they usually rate at 1.5C if even that. So the 3000mAh listed ultrafire is not actually a continous mAh rating. More like 2500mAh.

For the simple minded, The AW2600 is a great battery for PVs. Just remember to add a 20cent spacer in case you need it. The LiMN 1600 is a good battery too, but using it in a PV is hardly unleashing it's discharge potential and it's not protected against misuse.

 

[Quick1]

To find the Amps, Take the mAH or AH rating and multiply it by the C rating.
For example, the 1600mAH LiMN battery is rated at 10C, so-
1600 * 10(C) =16000 = 16000 mA, or 16 Amp discharge rate- far more powerful than the 5.2 Amp discharge rate of the first battery.

So far so good. You can draw a "larger" current from the 10(C) battery.

The first battery is 2600 mAH and says max 5.2A discharge rate, so we do this one in reverse to find the C rating-
2600 * (C) = 5.2A (or 5200mA)
C = 5200mA/2600mA = 2
so the C rating of the first battery is 2.

haha, I think I understand what you're saying but... you maybe should have said something like "the maximum discharge rate is 2(C)". My understanding of C is that it is the capacity of the battery over 1 hour. In other words, if the battery is fully charged, the milliAmps of current required to drain it in one hour is "C".

The 2600mAh (milli amp hour) battery would go from fully charged to drained if you were to draw a current of 2600 mA from it for 1 hour. so for that battery C = 2600mA. Since they have it rated at a max discharge rate of 5200ma then the maximum instantaneous current it's rated for is 2(C). Max discharge rate = 2(C) = 2 * 2600mA = 5600mA.

I know you knew what you were saying

Therefore, the first battery will last longer (2600mAH), but can not crank out as much power on demand (max discharge=5.2 amps).
The second battery does not hold as much (1600mAH), but can crank out over THREE TIMES (!!) the Amps on demand (max discharge=16 Amps!)

Yep, you could weld your screwdriver to something with that

Hope this clarifies the funny ratings for you

 

[Mactavish]

To find the Amps, Take the mAH or AH rating and multiply it by the C rating.
For example, the 1600mAH LiMN battery is rated at 10C, so-
1600 * 10(C) =16000 = 16000 mA, or 16 Amp discharge rate- far more powerful than the 5.2 Amp discharge rate of the first battery.

The first battery is 2600 mAH and says max 5.2A discharge rate, so we do this one in reverse to find the C rating-
2600 * (C) = 5.2A (or 5200mA)
C = 5200mA/2600mA = 2
so the C rating of the first battery is 2.

Therefore, the first battery will last longer (2600mAH), but can not crank out as much power on demand (max discharge=5.2 amps).
The second battery does not hold as much (1600mAH), but can crank out over THREE TIMES (!!) the Amps on demand (max discharge=16 Amps!)

Hope this clarifies the funny ratings for you

Thanks, well put, and clearly shows that the 10C is the battery to try if interested in trying something relatively new, and all the so far positive reviews of it, in several threads here. I own a GGTS, and just ordered to of these higher C/AMP batteries.

 

[Vapoorer]

posted by accident

 

[Quick1]

But does that make a diffrence when using 1 510 atty.

Only if you exceed the max discharge rate of the battery. That would be in amps or current.

A Joye 510 atomizer presents about a 2.2ohm resistance.
Knowing the voltage you can calculate the current (amps) it will draw.

Try this: Electrical calculator

You enter any 2 values and it calculates the others for you.

 

[KingVapor]

Basically, pushing the AW2600 to it's maximum potential would yield 5.2A of power for 30 minutes. This is stressing the cells to their limit.

 

[Quick1]

Basically, pushing the AW2600 to it's maximum potential would yield 5.2A of power for 30 minutes. This is stressing the cells to their limit.

Yes.

and 510 atomizers (at 2.2 ohms) will draw more current than any(?) other atomizer.

With those batteries fully charged to 4.2v a 510 atomizer will be drawing about a 1.9 amp current. and would last about 1.3 hours if you held the button down continuously (and your atomizer didn't burn up).

Of course the voltage drops off so it would be a bit less average current over the life of a charge.

In any event, you would be well within the operating parameters of either of these batteries.

 

[KingVapor]

1.5 or 1.6 ohm 510 is the lowest

Both the AW2600 and the LiMN will work in any current PV. They both work with the DBSB. I'm just wondering if the internal resistance of the LiMN is a factor in delivering Amps quicker or more effeciently. Some people say they notice a difference. That difference is the reason this thread was started. I have at times noticed a difference with the LiMN on the DBSB, which is mind boggling because on paper they should be the same right? I think there might be something more to the picture that is too big for me to comprehend.

 

[WhatAClumsyGirl]

All of this just flew right over my head....

< blondish

All i know is..i loveeeeeee the 18650 battery... other size batteries just don't compare

 

[lotus14]

To find the Amps, Take the mAH or AH rating and multiply it by the C rating.
For example, the 1600mAH LiMN battery is rated at 10C, so-
1600 * 10(C) =16000 = 16000 mA, or 16 Amp discharge rate- far more powerful than the 5.2 Amp discharge rate of the first battery.

The first battery is 2600 mAH and says max 5.2A discharge rate, so we do this one in reverse to find the C rating-
2600 * (C) = 5.2A (or 5200mA)
C = 5200mA/2600mA = 2
so the C rating of the first battery is 2.

Therefore, the first battery will last longer (2600mAH), but can not crank out as much power on demand (max discharge=5.2 amps).
The second battery does not hold as much (1600mAH), but can crank out over THREE TIMES (!!) the Amps on demand (max discharge=16 Amps!)

Hope this clarifies the funny ratings for you

Using the above calculator it seems the no atty would pull anything close to 5.2 amps

USB wall adapters rated at 2 amps seem to be able to power anything I'm aware of.

 

[Quick1]

Using the above calculator it seems the no atty would pull anything close to 5.2 amps

USB wall adapters rated at 2 amps seem to be able to power anything I'm aware of.

Yes. I believe you're correct.

My understanding is that devices "draw" power/current and power supplies supply whatever is demanded (up to the capacity of the power supply).

It's not like power supplies "push" current.

If the current drawn is less than the capability of the power supply then there wouldn't be any difference if the power supply could supply twice as much current or 10 times as much current. The device would draw whatever it uses in either case.

My (even weaker) understanding is that if the device tries to draw more current than the power supply can deliver you get a voltage drop.

 

[Elf]

Using the above calculator it seems the no atty would pull anything close to 5.2 amps

USB wall adapters rated at 2 amps seem to be able to power anything I'm aware of.

Yes. I believe you're correct.

My understanding is that devices "draw" power/current and power supplies supply whatever is demanded (up to the capacity of the power supply).

It's not like power supplies "push" current.

If the current drawn is less than the capability of the power supply then there wouldn't be any difference if the power supply could supply twice as much current or 10 times as much current. The device would draw whatever it uses in either case.

My (even weaker) understanding is that if the device tries to draw more current than the power supply can deliver you get a voltage drop.

From my experience, there are a couple other positive factors in having a battery with a discharge rating significantly higher than you actually use.
Yes I agree there is a point at which more is simply overkill, but that is much higher than the current draw you expect.

A couple reasons for wanting a high discharge rating:
-The batteries will typically last longer (you will get more cycles out of them if you don't "stress" them).
-The voltage always drops once you put the load of the atomizer on it. How far it drops depends on several factors, however typically the higher your max discharge rating (up to the undetermined point of overkill) on the battery is compared to the load you are drawing, the less of a voltage drop you are likely to see under the given load.

Additionally, since the overall energy used is really measured in Watts, (Volts*Amps), you can see how the voltage drop of the load on the battery, or restrictions on the amperage the battery can supply, can both quite affect the power you are getting through the atomizer since the values are multiplied against each other in determining total energy.

One way we can relate to this in our own battery usage is battery temperature. When a battery provides power (or in the reverse, is charged), the higher the rate at which we charge/discharge compared to the battery's C rating, the more heat will be created leading to a warm (or hot) battery.
If you have 2 batteries, 1000mAH, one rated at 1C, one rated at 5C, and you put a load of 1000mA on it, they will of course both be drained in an hour's time, however you will notice that the 1C battery's voltage dropped further than the 5C once the load was applied to them, and will be much hotter than the 5C battery. By the end of the test run when both batteries are drained, the 1C battery will also have taken a bigger hit to its overall lifespan in performing its duty than the 5C battery.

 

[Mactavish]

AW IMR18650 1600mAh LiMN rechargeable lithium battery


I just got a couple of these batteries in, and let me just say two 3v cells HAVE NOTHING on this battery.

It kicks like a mad man, and vapor production is off the chart with it. After talking with CDDZ on Skype showing it off with a single 801, and with the DBSB. I now have a nicotine rush in a half with the sweats, and a nice little nicotine headache going on. I'm ALSO used to vapping the DBSB non-stop so really it's more than normal.

The battery maybe only rated 1600mah, but that is rated with it's max discharge rate. I expect this battery to outlast a normal 2400mah three to four times. So more or less in 3 to 4 days it should be dead. I don't know that for sure tho. After I run the ropes with it for a week I will post a video over them.


It really does hit like a 6v setup, and the DBSB with this battery is just WOW.


I ordered a new charger from there site, and it did kick off at 4.19v just like it said it should with the newer chargers.


Gotta go.....get my nicotine rush down a bit

Also one last thing/YOU DON'T HAVE TO STACK BATTERIES THIS WAY

_____
Next Day Update

Alright I didn't go to bed last night. Vapped on this hardcore all day, and all night long. It is 4:40AM

Installed about 2:30-3:00 at 4.19v
At 10:45PM it had dropped down to 3.6v
now at 4:40AM it's reading 3.19v

I have been chain vapping on this more or less on the DBSB with 801s for the most part. Few times I had a 510 installed on it.

It's still hitting nice, and is giving a smooth hit on the DBSB. IDK how much it can go, but I could install a fresh one if I wanted a bigger hit.

So this leaves me with IDK I still really like this battery, and it is lasting a very long time. I guess no matter if you have a normal battery, or a high drain battery you still want to change them out for a new one in the morning.

I would still highly rate this battery off first impressions of it.
___

Soon after I typed this the battery dropped to 2.1v, and kicked off from working. Seems like other batteries when you hit that point. It's ready to just die out.

It might get stronger the more times I charge, and use the battery that could happen. For now tho that is what I got out of it.

Don't see much difference in hit or vapor on a per-filled cartomizer, using these and many of my other 3.7 volt batteries, and confirmed by other users in the GG forum. Are you sure you don't own stock in AW batteries?

I'm glad I bought em, can't hurt having more 3.7 v bats.

 

[clyde2801]

Don't see much difference in hit or vapor on a per-filled cartomizer, using these and many of my other 3.7 volt batteries, and confirmed by other users in the GG forum. Are you sure you don't own stock in AW batteries?

I'm glad I bought em, can't hurt having more 3.7 v bats.

While other report in the GG and Juiceboxfans forums that they have noticed a difference.

 

[Mactavish]

While other report in the GG and Juiceboxfans forums that they have noticed a difference.

If lurkers are interested in GG users opinions, then this is the thread referenced by clyde:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/76167-holy-crap-high-drain-18650-battery-ggts.html

 

[KingVapor]

I'll have my 1.5Ω 510 atomizer hopefully by Monday. I will be looking for any kind of difference between the regular 18650 and also keep notes on battery life.

 

[Mactavish]

I'll have my 1.5Ω 510 atomizer hopefully by Monday. I will be looking for any kind of difference between the regular 18650 and also keep notes on battery life.

I for one, will be interested in hearing your results. I should test my 510 for ohm's, it's not old at all as I alternate between many attys and cartos, but my first vaping tests did not show any noticable differences.

 

[Vapoorer]

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i found this here might be helpful:

18650 Battery Test - CandlePowerForums

 

[Mactavish]

Interesting, the AW 1600 mAh high drain show the highest amp, but shortest run time. That makes sense, but disputes what some have said about this battery lasting longer. Against the Ultrafire 3000 mAh, #3 in the chart, that battery lasts twice as long or more as it's off this chart.

 

[Ralph T]

i found this here might be helpful:

18650 Battery Test - CandlePowerForums

Those flashlight fanatics have some very good info on batteries and chargers. How funny. I could easily get caught up in that group... being attracted to bright, shiny objects like I am. My precious...

The RC community also use a lot of the same batteries we do.