I thought the same thing!
They need to hire you. You have brought up so many good points and questions, they should consider consulting with you first!
75W Vaporesso TARGET 2 VTC Kit with Ceramic cCELL Coil
- Thread starter 100%VG
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- target 2 vtc vaporesso
- Status
Sure, if you want to keep it up. I was just gonna let it go at "it can't hurt anything", because you are right, it can't hurt. But there is just no way it helps or matters.
Here is a quote from @Mooch: (Are you familiar with him? Read his battery blogs. They are worthwhile. You'll learn some things. He is a reliable and respected source.)
That is from the thread Why is rotating batteries recommended?
The answer to the thread's title question is basically your argument: "Oh, I donno... I heard it somewhere".
You won't find any info on why the sky is green, VG. Because it isn't. And you are not going to find any info on why you should rotate the position of your cells.
But, it can't hurt anything, so keep doing it, and drop the subject, VG. Sheesh.
That's where I got lost. I didn't know if they meant to turn the wattage up really high while vaping or whether to turn it up when it is out of juice to kind of burn off the residue. I am still not too clear, lol...
Okay I have kept the wattage at 35 to finish off this tank and it really does taste good and produce big clouds. The vapor is warm but I definitely am not getting any burning taste whatsoever. My battery is down to about 1/3 after minimal use last night and vaping at 18.5 watts for most of the day on this one tank. I am going to switch to an LG battery when this one dies. I usually rotate about 5 setups throughout the day, so maybe I am not used to continuous use and that's why it seems like my batteries are not lasting as long as I think they should...
Onto tank #3! I ran it dry (ouch) and refilled it with yet a third juice choice. This one is a banana/peanut butter combo that I just got. It is slightly sweet but I can't detect any added sweetner, so I am staying at 35w for this tank. The flavor is amazing! There was no dark juice hanging out in the threads or in the coil itself when I cleaned it up. In fact, the coil looks pristine! I keep expecting to get a really hot hit vaping this high on a .9 coil but every hit so far has been identical. I will report any changes in this as I go through the tank. 
Thank you. I'm always interested in good information. I'm glad you didn't drop it as I will learn something new.
I haven't heard of Mooch, but that doesn't matter. I had never heard of most of the people in my research until I found them.Thanks again, Turtle.
.
What it means is that if you turn up the Wattage too high and get a burnt taste, the Ceramic will recover when it is returned to normal use. I would think this applied to an empty tank as well. So I would take that to mean not using the Kanthal cCell that is rated up to 35W above 35W. I don't see that as "cleaning", but it won't be damaged like cotton would be. At least not when done in minimal doses.
Last edited:
But this procedure is under the heading "self-cleaning." So how does one "self-clean" those coils?
No, you can't come to my house and use my self-cleaning oven.
I drifted away when a friend was banned. I never really left, but wasn't here much for a while.Really? Where have you been? Mooch is our resident battery guru.
Still no, huh?
But this procedure is under the heading "self-cleaning." So how does one "self-clean" those coils?
No, you can't come to my house and use my self-cleaning oven.
I take it to be wording for recovering from a dry hit better than cotton would. Not so much self-cleaning as self-recovering... maybe. Something may have been lost in translation.
Hello everyone,
There's a new TC/VW Mod by Vaporesso; the 75W Vaporesso TARGET 2 VTC Kit with Ceramic cCELL Coil Heads. It has a unique shape for a great fit in the hand, and a trigger-style vape button that is easy to use for both left-handed and right-handed users. It comes with a 22mm, 3.5ml cCELL coil Tank, an extra cCELL coil, and a USB Charging cable. The cCELL coil is a true ceramic coil without wicks. The heating coil and ceramic are made together to form a coil unit for a longer life cycle.
It uses a single 18650.
Parameters:
Tank Diameter: 22mm
Tank volume: 3.5ml
Mod Dimension: 92x 48x 27 mm
Battery cell type: 18650 batteries
Thread: 510
It Comes with:
1 x Target tank with a cCELL coil
1 x Target 2 75W Box Mod
1 x Extra replacement cCELL coil
1 x USB cable
It comes in Black, Golden, Pink, Purple, and Silver...
The cCell coil is actually sintered inside a ceramic tube. The coil is not exposed to the e-liquid.
Sinter: Cause (ores or powdery metals) to become a coherent mass by heating without melting.
Here's a video of the process...
I used ceramic stick wicks exclusively for a while and loved them, until I could not find them anymore. Great, Clean flavor! My Ribbon coils were wrapped around the ceramic stick like for a rolled stainless steel mesh wick. These coils are sintered inside of the ceramic for No Spitting and even disbursement of heat to the e-liquid. The cCell coil is self-cleaning (I guess through Dry Burning) to deliver the original aroma of your e-liquid with pure, clean, and consistent flavor.
This one looks to me like a Winner!
The only downside I see is that the coil heads cannot be rebuilt. I don't know if a replaceable internal ceramic cCell coil is available yet, but the complete Heads will be.
I haven't seen any mention of an RBA yet. I haven't found the Ohms of the cCell coil yet, or unit specs like Max Amps for an 18650 battery requirement, Max Volts out, etcetera, but when I do, I'll update with that info. I don't know the materials used in construction, either. This one is very new!!!
Any thoughts and/or first impressions?
.
I want one of the so bad. I've been trying to win one since I first found out they were coming out, especially since I can't afford jack sh*t. But just like with the fighting to get disability now for almost 4 years, I have no luck. Sigh.. I pawned stuff just to get my vaping stuff I'm using now. Rant over...
I guess you have to manually clean them yourself.
But this procedure is under the heading "self-cleaning." So how does one "self-clean" those coils?
How's that for self-cleaning? 
I had my Ni200 cCell soaking in Everclear. I took it out and looked, but what Ceramic that could be seen was still almost black. So I put it in the Target Tank, and vaped it somewhat dry. Then I put it on to boil in some water... and promptly forgot about it.
I mostly likely ruined it, but the Ceramic that could be seen from the top, inside the vapor air-hole, and down the coil was perfectly white again. I'm letting it sit for tonight and I'll try the white plus pin grommet from the Kanthal cCell to see if I can get it working again. If I can't, I'll cut this one open too and see how clean the Ceramic got. If this worked, then that's one way to clean them. Just don't forget about them when they are being boiled.
I was going to look at it after boiling and soak it in PGA again if needed, and repeat as necessary, but I killed that plan.
So maybe I can get it working again with the good grommet. All the water boiled out of the pot and the grommet was very messed up. But I'll try anyway. At best, it will work OK. At the worst for me, you'll get an update showing the Ceramic and how well it was cleaned..
Keep trying. The more qualifying posts there are, the more will be given away. Just be sure to follow the rules posted in the beginning of the contest thread.
Good Luck, Chris!
cCell Cleaning Update:
My Kanthal cCell was too badly damaged after all the water in the pot boiled out. Both the White Grommet for the Plus Pin Insulation and the clear Silicone Spacer on top of the Ceramic (inside) were too badly damaged to be used. (I didn't know about the clear Silicone Spacer on top until I took the cCell apart) I tried to work with the Coil Legs to get the other White Grommet and Plus Pin installed, but one of the Legs broke off. However... this cCell came apart without having to cut it apart. So I have two things to tell you.
Discussion:
Cleaning
The Cleaning process worked to get the Ceramic very good looking.
I say "very good looking" because I don't know if the Ceramic's integrity was damaged, but this one got way too hot in the pot on the stove, too. However, it is still a solid mass of cylindrical ceramic. There is no powder, dust, grit, or debris that I can find, but I am not analyzing it with a microscope or doing anything scientific, either. Just inspecting it as best I can visually and manually. I scratched it with the same sharp tool as before, and it did not flake, crumble, or show anything to indicate any damage at all.
Which part of the process worked to accomplish the most? The PGA bath or the boiling?
Since I only had the one Ni200 cCell to work with and ruined it, I cannot say. It was not cleaned well enough by only the one 2-day PGA bath. I don't know how well only boiling it without the PGA bath first would have worked, either.
Would I try this again?
Absolutely. My intention was to boil it for 10 minutes after the PGA bath and repeat as necessary. I would also try cleaning by only boiling to see how many times that might take. I used Filtered Water, not Distilled, and Distilled would be even safer to use. But you have to know that store-bought Distilled Water is not as pure as water you distill yourself, for several reasons, though it would be much better than tap water, and maybe even better than filtered water... depending on the filtration system. A three-stage RO Filtration System (Reverse Osmosis) is 2nd best to freshly Distilled. If stored for future use, either one should be stored in glass, if possible, and kept in a cool, dry place, and I would think out of direct Sunlight. Most typical plastic containers can leech particles into the stored water.
Rebuilding
What I learned from this failed cleaning attempt is that a cCell can be disassembled to the point of being able to rebuild it, without damaging the structure of the metal Head.
The coil legs leave the Ceramic from opposite sides of the cylinder. One from near the top and the other from near the bottom, and both go downward. The Fibrous Material wraps around them and also helps to insulate them from the metal shell around it. So it does three things. This insulation was not mentioned by Vaporesso in the QC document, but I guess it's not really a "QC" issue.
My cotton (if you will, for simplicity's sake) was burned when the pot boiled all the water out, and the cotton and ceramics were both dry. I had put cold tap water in the pot to cool it off, but taking the cCell apart was done much later. The cotton peeled away from the ceramic very easily after the ceramic came out, but it was much thinner from being burnt. They both came out easily by pulling on a coil leg. (It was a very different experience when they were both wet.) The press-fit metal ring that the White Grommet and Plus Pin fit into has a very short ledge/lip inside that the ceramic and cotton wrap sit on.
The "lip" appears to block cotton wrap and hold the assembled ceramic and cotton inside. They are inserted first, and then the ring is press-fit into place. But this press-fit ring does not have to be removed to get the ceramic out. The ceramic may have to be pushed forcefully on a used and damp cCell to get it out, but it's bad anyway and being replaced, so any minor damage to it shouldn't matter to you, as any debris from that can be washed off. If the cotton gets damaged, that won't matter either.
The clear silicone spacer at the top will have to stay inside (unless you destroy it). Mine was damaged so I removed it, but it's inside diameter hole is slightly larger than the hole in the cCell's air hole that stops it. The air hole in the ceramic cylinder is a good bit smaller, so a tool (like a drill hit) with a fairly flat end can be used to push the ceramic out through the press-fit ring. If the cotton stays inside, it can then be removed, as can the clear silicone spacer, if desired.
Once the center chamber is emptied and cleaned, a rebuild Vertical Coil can be inserted. If the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to be thicker than needed, it can be compressed a little to get it past that "lip". Since this one came apart without cutting it open, I am soaking it in PGA to clean it now.
I will go for another Ni200 coil at 3mm ID and use a Blue Box Japanese Cotton pad to wrap it. I have used this procedure to make other vertical builds in RBA Heads and it worked great, but they were made to be rebuilt, so this will only be a little different, to make sure the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to expand inside and fill the four large juice holes.
What I intend to do is leave the coil leg that exists the top on the outside of the cotton and make it ground. The metal shell of the casing should ground it near the top of the coil and help make the intended coil resistance better without using a NR-R-NR wire weld. And since it should be grounded near the top of the coil, that long leg should not get hot as part of the TC process. The same would be true of Kanthal, or anything else. That long leg's addition resistance to the total resistance of the coil should be terminated very near the coil. The positive leg will leave the coil going straight down and be terminated near the coil by the Plus Pin. This way, there should be no issues with the legs shorting in the assembled rebuild. The legs will still leave the coil from opposite sides to help accommodate that near the Plus Pin. The working leg lengths should also be very short this way.
So this is what I learned from my failed attempt to clean it. They do appear to be cleanable to clear them well and reuse them for a fair amount of time. And then they can be rebuilt, if you are so inclined. I'll let you know how well it works for me after I rebuild it and use it for a while.
Any and all discussion is welcome.
.
My Kanthal cCell was too badly damaged after all the water in the pot boiled out. Both the White Grommet for the Plus Pin Insulation and the clear Silicone Spacer on top of the Ceramic (inside) were too badly damaged to be used. (I didn't know about the clear Silicone Spacer on top until I took the cCell apart) I tried to work with the Coil Legs to get the other White Grommet and Plus Pin installed, but one of the Legs broke off. However... this cCell came apart without having to cut it apart. So I have two things to tell you.
- The Ceramic looked pristine!!! Perfectly white again. And it looks very good inside where the coil is.
- I believe now that a cCell Head could be rebuilt by using a Vertical Coil wrapped with strips from a pad of Japanese Cotton.
Discussion:
Cleaning
The Cleaning process worked to get the Ceramic very good looking.
I say "very good looking" because I don't know if the Ceramic's integrity was damaged, but this one got way too hot in the pot on the stove, too. However, it is still a solid mass of cylindrical ceramic. There is no powder, dust, grit, or debris that I can find, but I am not analyzing it with a microscope or doing anything scientific, either. Just inspecting it as best I can visually and manually. I scratched it with the same sharp tool as before, and it did not flake, crumble, or show anything to indicate any damage at all.
Which part of the process worked to accomplish the most? The PGA bath or the boiling?
Since I only had the one Ni200 cCell to work with and ruined it, I cannot say. It was not cleaned well enough by only the one 2-day PGA bath. I don't know how well only boiling it without the PGA bath first would have worked, either.
Would I try this again?
Absolutely. My intention was to boil it for 10 minutes after the PGA bath and repeat as necessary. I would also try cleaning by only boiling to see how many times that might take. I used Filtered Water, not Distilled, and Distilled would be even safer to use. But you have to know that store-bought Distilled Water is not as pure as water you distill yourself, for several reasons, though it would be much better than tap water, and maybe even better than filtered water... depending on the filtration system. A three-stage RO Filtration System (Reverse Osmosis) is 2nd best to freshly Distilled. If stored for future use, either one should be stored in glass, if possible, and kept in a cool, dry place, and I would think out of direct Sunlight. Most typical plastic containers can leech particles into the stored water.
Rebuilding
What I learned from this failed cleaning attempt is that a cCell can be disassembled to the point of being able to rebuild it, without damaging the structure of the metal Head.
The coil legs leave the Ceramic from opposite sides of the cylinder. One from near the top and the other from near the bottom, and both go downward. The Fibrous Material wraps around them and also helps to insulate them from the metal shell around it. So it does three things. This insulation was not mentioned by Vaporesso in the QC document, but I guess it's not really a "QC" issue.
My cotton (if you will, for simplicity's sake) was burned when the pot boiled all the water out, and the cotton and ceramics were both dry. I had put cold tap water in the pot to cool it off, but taking the cCell apart was done much later. The cotton peeled away from the ceramic very easily after the ceramic came out, but it was much thinner from being burnt. They both came out easily by pulling on a coil leg. (It was a very different experience when they were both wet.) The press-fit metal ring that the White Grommet and Plus Pin fit into has a very short ledge/lip inside that the ceramic and cotton wrap sit on.
The "lip" appears to block cotton wrap and hold the assembled ceramic and cotton inside. They are inserted first, and then the ring is press-fit into place. But this press-fit ring does not have to be removed to get the ceramic out. The ceramic may have to be pushed forcefully on a used and damp cCell to get it out, but it's bad anyway and being replaced, so any minor damage to it shouldn't matter to you, as any debris from that can be washed off. If the cotton gets damaged, that won't matter either.
The clear silicone spacer at the top will have to stay inside (unless you destroy it). Mine was damaged so I removed it, but it's inside diameter hole is slightly larger than the hole in the cCell's air hole that stops it. The air hole in the ceramic cylinder is a good bit smaller, so a tool (like a drill hit) with a fairly flat end can be used to push the ceramic out through the press-fit ring. If the cotton stays inside, it can then be removed, as can the clear silicone spacer, if desired.
Once the center chamber is emptied and cleaned, a rebuild Vertical Coil can be inserted. If the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to be thicker than needed, it can be compressed a little to get it past that "lip". Since this one came apart without cutting it open, I am soaking it in PGA to clean it now.
I will go for another Ni200 coil at 3mm ID and use a Blue Box Japanese Cotton pad to wrap it. I have used this procedure to make other vertical builds in RBA Heads and it worked great, but they were made to be rebuilt, so this will only be a little different, to make sure the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to expand inside and fill the four large juice holes.
What I intend to do is leave the coil leg that exists the top on the outside of the cotton and make it ground. The metal shell of the casing should ground it near the top of the coil and help make the intended coil resistance better without using a NR-R-NR wire weld. And since it should be grounded near the top of the coil, that long leg should not get hot as part of the TC process. The same would be true of Kanthal, or anything else. That long leg's addition resistance to the total resistance of the coil should be terminated very near the coil. The positive leg will leave the coil going straight down and be terminated near the coil by the Plus Pin. This way, there should be no issues with the legs shorting in the assembled rebuild. The legs will still leave the coil from opposite sides to help accommodate that near the Plus Pin. The working leg lengths should also be very short this way.
So this is what I learned from my failed attempt to clean it. They do appear to be cleanable to clear them well and reuse them for a fair amount of time. And then they can be rebuilt, if you are so inclined. I'll let you know how well it works for me after I rebuild it and use it for a while.
Any and all discussion is welcome.
.
Last edited:
The "Organic Cotton" MSDS Report was posted by Vaporesso yesterday...
MSDS report of cCELL Cotton of Vaporesso e cigarette
Can anyone read this and understand it well enough to answer this question?
From the Composition / Information on Ingredients listed (or anything else you see), does look like Organic Cotton, and nothing but Organic Cotton?
I didn't really study the MSDS Reports on the Ceramic, but I know more about Cotton, and some of this seems like information is kind of non-specific and/or lacking to me. I have asked a friend to study it, so I'll see what comes back.
Just found this, too.
Vaporesso launches the revolutionary cCELL coil.
cCELL coil Launching News-Vaporesso's offical website
Dear all,
Vaporesso launches the revolutionary cCELL coil.
A true Ceramic coils released by vaporesso, comes with a revolutionary heating element and unique structure. Adopting a special porous material with wire casted inside to build a coil can be 100% no spitting, no dry hit, self-cleaning (at wrong high watt setting, if the coil generate burning taste, just simply set the watt back to right setting, the coil will self clean the bad taste and won’t affect using experience) and can delivery origin aroma of juice, also longer lifecycle twice than others. cCELL is a real game changer.
For more details, please visit:http://www.vaporesso.com/product/?
Vaporesso Marketing Department
November, 15th, 2015
.
MSDS report of cCELL Cotton of Vaporesso e cigarette
Can anyone read this and understand it well enough to answer this question?
From the Composition / Information on Ingredients listed (or anything else you see), does look like Organic Cotton, and nothing but Organic Cotton?
I didn't really study the MSDS Reports on the Ceramic, but I know more about Cotton, and some of this seems like information is kind of non-specific and/or lacking to me. I have asked a friend to study it, so I'll see what comes back.
Just found this, too.
Vaporesso launches the revolutionary cCELL coil.
cCELL coil Launching News-Vaporesso's offical website
Dear all,
Vaporesso launches the revolutionary cCELL coil.
A true Ceramic coils released by vaporesso, comes with a revolutionary heating element and unique structure. Adopting a special porous material with wire casted inside to build a coil can be 100% no spitting, no dry hit, self-cleaning (at wrong high watt setting, if the coil generate burning taste, just simply set the watt back to right setting, the coil will self clean the bad taste and won’t affect using experience) and can delivery origin aroma of juice, also longer lifecycle twice than others. cCELL is a real game changer.
For more details, please visit:http://www.vaporesso.com/product/?
Vaporesso Marketing Department
November, 15th, 2015
.
Still no, huh?
I take it to be wording for recovering from a dry hit better than cotton would. Not so much self-cleaning as self-recovering... maybe. Something may have been lost in translation.
Well, THAT would be a first, non?! Yes, I could definitely see where the two concepts could be confused in the intricacies of English by a non-native speaker. Makes perfect sense to me.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
