75W Vaporesso TARGET 2 VTC Kit with Ceramic cCELL Coil

[LouisLeBeau]

Hello Group! I just received this tank as a gift from a VERY nice guy, Thank you again, @markfm !!

I have read the beginning and end of this thread, and may have missed it in the middle, so apologies in advance if so. I'll finish reading the remainder after I introduce myself and my objective.

In the hopes of adding anything to the discussion of this device, my first consideration looking at this, is if there might be any ceramic dust either left behind from manufacturing, or possibly given off during normal course of use. Obviously, anyone concerned could easily address this with an air, alcohol, and/or water purge before using. But in the interest of science, I am going right to use without. "Worst case" scenario, to see if any precautions are necessary whatsoever.

First thing I did, as the drip tip opening is on the smaller side of "standard" was to replace the original with an undersized Cherry Vape knockoff from China. They tend to be loose on a standard drip atty. I've removed the O-ring and cut a very black piece of fabric to fit into the opening, to act as a filter. I'll inspect this after the first half tank, to see if there is any ceramic on the cloth that might indicate residual dust from manufacturing. Then I'll finish the tankful, and reexamine the filter. If it appears there is any additional residue, I will continue to monitor.

I have a toy-ish digital USB microscope somewhere. If nothing is apparent to the naked eye on first inspection, I will see if I can locate it. First impression, is that the draw has tightened considerably with the filter. While it leads to a concern that the velocity of air flow is impeded, it DOES seem that the filtering aspect of the cloth is significant.

Thanks, hi, and thank you again to Mark for this wonderful opportunity to try something new!

 

[cooladdict]

What it means is that if you turn up the Wattage too high and get a burnt taste, the Ceramic will recover when it is returned to normal use. I would think this applied to an empty tank as well. So I would take that to mean not using the Kanthal cCell that is rated up to 35W above 35W. I don't see that as "cleaning", but it won't be damaged like cotton would be. At least not when done in minimal doses.

Yeah, I wouldn't have jumped to that conclusion from the statement, so thank you for clearing it up for me. I literally took it to mean that by turning the wattage up on purpose, you can purposely clean the coil, but that doesn't sound like that's the case. I just filled tank #5, so eventually cleaning will be needed!

 

[cooladdict]

I drifted away when a friend was banned. I never really left, but wasn't here much for a while.

I'm glad you're back! I am learning a lot from you.

 

[cooladdict]

I guess you have to manually clean them yourself. How's that for self-cleaning?

I had my Ni200 cCell soaking in Everclear. I took it out and looked, but what Ceramic that could be seen was still almost black. So I put it in the Target Tank, and vaped it somewhat dry. Then I put it on to boil in some water... and promptly forgot about it. I mostly likely ruined it, but the Ceramic that could be seen from the top, inside the vapor air-hole, and down the coil was perfectly white again.

I'm letting it sit for tonight and I'll try the white plus pin grommet from the Kanthal cCell to see if I can get it working again. If I can't, I'll cut this one open too and see how clean the Ceramic got. If this worked, then that's one way to clean them. Just don't forget about them when they are being boiled.

I was going to look at it after boiling and soak it in PGA again if needed, and repeat as necessary, but I killed that plan. So maybe I can get it working again with the good grommet. All the water boiled out of the pot and the grommet was very messed up. But I'll try anyway. At best, it will work OK. At the worst for me, you'll get an update showing the Ceramic and how well it was cleaned.
.

Oh no! And I thought I was bad. Put some ham hocks on for soup stock last week and when I started smelling bacon.... Well you know. Do you know when you might be getting replacement coils? Mine is still totally white after 4 tanks, even with getting the dark juice residue. I haven't really need to clean it yet!

 

[cooladdict]

cCell Cleaning Update:

My Kanthal cCell was too badly damaged after all the water in the pot boiled out. Both the White Grommet for the Plus Pin Insulation and the clear Silicone Spacer on top of the Ceramic (inside) were too badly damaged to be used. (I didn't know about the clear Silicone Spacer on top until I took the cCell apart) I tried to work with the Coil Legs to get the other White Grommet and Plus Pin installed, but one of the Legs broke off. However... this cCell came apart without having to cut it apart. So I have two things to tell you.

1. The Ceramic looked pristine!!! Perfectly white again. And it looks very good inside where the coil is.
2. I believe now that a cCell Head could be rebuilt by using a Vertical Coil wrapped with strips from a pad of Japanese Cotton.

Discussion:

Cleaning

The Cleaning process worked to get the Ceramic very good looking.

I say "very good looking" because I don't know if the Ceramic's integrity was damaged, but this one got way too hot in the pot on the stove, too. However, it is still a solid mass of cylindrical ceramic. There is no powder, dust, grit, or debris that I can find, but I am not analyzing it with a microscope or doing anything scientific, either. Just inspecting it as best I can visually and manually. I scratched it with the same sharp tool as before, and it did not flake, crumble, or show anything to indicate any damage at all.

Which part of the process worked to accomplish the most? The PGA bath or the boiling?

Since I only had the one Ni200 cCell to work with and ruined it, I cannot say. It was not cleaned well enough by only the one 2-day PGA bath. I don't know how well only boiling it without the PGA bath first would have worked, either.

Would I try this again?

Absolutely. My intention was to boil it for 10 minutes after the PGA bath and repeat as necessary. I would also try cleaning by only boiling to see how many times that might take. I used Filtered Water, not Distilled, and Distilled would be even safer to use. But you have to know that store-bought Distilled Water is not as pure as water you distill yourself, for several reasons, though it would be much better than tap water, and maybe even better than filtered water... depending on the filtration system. A three-stage RO Filtration System (Reverse Osmosis) is 2nd best to freshly Distilled. If stored for future use, either one should be stored in glass, if possible, and kept in a cool, dry place, and I would think out of direct Sunlight. Most typical plastic containers can leech particles into the stored water.


Rebuilding

What I learned from this failed cleaning attempt is that a cCell can be disassembled to the point of being able to rebuild it, without damaging the structure of the metal Head.

The coil legs leave the Ceramic from opposite sides of the cylinder. One from near the top and the other from near the bottom, and both go downward. The Fibrous Material wraps around them and also helps to insulate them from the metal shell around it. So it does three things. This insulation was not mentioned by Vaporesso in the QC document, but I guess it's not really a "QC" issue.

My cotton (if you will, for simplicity's sake) was burned when the pot boiled all the water out, and the cotton and ceramics were both dry. I had put cold tap water in the pot to cool it off, but taking the cCell apart was done much later. The cotton peeled away from the ceramic very easily after the ceramic came out, but it was much thinner from being burnt. They both came out easily by pulling on a coil leg. (It was a very different experience when they were both wet.) The press-fit metal ring that the White Grommet and Plus Pin fit into has a very short ledge/lip inside that the ceramic and cotton wrap sit on.

The "lip" appears to block cotton wrap and hold the assembled ceramic and cotton inside. They are inserted first, and then the ring is press-fit into place. But this press-fit ring does not have to be removed to get the ceramic out. The ceramic may have to be pushed forcefully on a used and damp cCell to get it out, but it's bad anyway and being replaced, so any minor damage to it shouldn't matter to you, as any debris from that can be washed off. If the cotton gets damaged, that won't matter either.

The clear silicone spacer at the top will have to stay inside (unless you destroy it). Mine was damaged so I removed it, but it's inside diameter hole is slightly larger than the hole in the cCell's air hole that stops it. The air hole in the ceramic cylinder is a good bit smaller, so a tool (like a drill hit) with a fairly flat end can be used to push the ceramic out through the press-fit ring. If the cotton stays inside, it can then be removed, as can the clear silicone spacer, if desired.

Once the center chamber is emptied and cleaned, a rebuild Vertical Coil can be inserted. If the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to be thicker than needed, it can be compressed a little to get it past that "lip". Since this one came apart without cutting it open, I am soaking it in PGA to clean it now.

I will go for another Ni200 coil at 3mm ID and use a Blue Box Japanese Cotton pad to wrap it. I have used this procedure to make other vertical builds in RBA Heads and it worked great, but they were made to be rebuilt, so this will only be a little different, to make sure the cotton wrap is fluffy enough to expand inside and fill the four large juice holes.

What I intend to do is leave the coil leg that exists the top on the outside of the cotton and make it ground. The metal shell of the casing should ground it near the top of the coil and help make the intended coil resistance better without using a NR-R-NR wire weld. And since it should be grounded near the top of the coil, that long leg should not get hot as part of the TC process. The same would be true of Kanthal, or anything else. That long leg's addition resistance to the total resistance of the coil should be terminated very near the coil. The positive leg will leave the coil going straight down and be terminated near the coil by the Plus Pin. This way, there should be no issues with the legs shorting in the assembled rebuild. The legs will still leave the coil from opposite sides to help accommodate that near the Plus Pin. The working leg lengths should also be very short this way.



So this is what I learned from my failed attempt to clean it. They do appear to be cleanable to clear them well and reuse them for a fair amount of time. And then they can be rebuilt, if you are so inclined. I'll let you know how well it works for me after I rebuild it and use it for a while.

Any and all discussion is welcome.
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That's great that boiling seems to be a good way to clean them. I wonder if UC would be as effective? I am planning on getting an ultrasonic cleaner here soon so I might give that a try, too. Thanks for the lowdown on rebuilding! It's good to know that they actually can be rebuilt.

 

[cooladdict]

Hello Group! I just received this tank as a gift from a VERY nice guy, Thank you again, @markfm !!

I have read the beginning and end of this thread, and may have missed it in the middle, so apologies in advance if so. I'll finish reading the remainder after I introduce myself and my objective.

In the hopes of adding anything to the discussion of this device, my first consideration looking at this, is if there might be any ceramic dust either left behind from manufacturing, or possibly given off during normal course of use. Obviously, anyone concerned could easily address this with an air, alcohol, and/or water purge before using. But in the interest of science, I am going right to use without. "Worst case" scenario, to see if any precautions are necessary whatsoever.

First thing I did, as the drip tip opening is on the smaller side of "standard" was to replace the original with an undersized Cherry Vape knockoff from China. They tend to be loose on a standard drip atty. I've removed the O-ring and cut a very black piece of fabric to fit into the opening, to act as a filter. I'll inspect this after the first half tank, to see if there is any ceramic on the cloth that might indicate residual dust from manufacturing. Then I'll finish the tankful, and reexamine the filter. If it appears there is any additional residue, I will continue to monitor.

I have a toy-ish digital USB microscope somewhere. If nothing is apparent to the naked eye on first inspection, I will see if I can locate it. First impression, is that the draw has tightened considerably with the filter. While it leads to a concern that the velocity of air flow is impeded, it DOES seem that the filtering aspect of the cloth is significant.

Thanks, hi, and thank you again to Mark for this wonderful opportunity to try something new!

Louis! Hi and welcome to the sintered coil revolution. I personally was not concerned with whether there would be ceramic dust left behind after the sintering process, so I will be patiently awaiting your findings. The only experience I have with ceramics is from 5th grade when I made a pair of ceramic praying hands for my mom, lol. I have been cleaning extra juice out of my coil and chimney in my usual OCD fashion and other than that first tank of very dark juice residue I have not found anything untoward on a Q-tip.

So you didn't try the coil without the filter? Man you are missing out on some ridiculous flavor! I have had the best flavor experience in my history of vaping from this coil. It's funny because I just finished a tank of juice I didn't care for (a pumpkin doughnut flavor) when I got it because it was too cakey so I let it steep for a few weeks. Now I don't like the juice because I can taste all of the spices in the pumpkin, lol! It's kinda crazy but it's true!

 

[cooladdict]

Okay, tank #4 is done and I am now on to my fifth tank on this coil. Tank #4 was a juice that I did not care for (pumpkin doughnut) when I got it about 6 weeks ago so I let it steep to see if I would like it better. What was once a very cakey, bland juice with almost no pumpkin flavor winded up tasting like all of the spices in the pumpkin in this tank! Although I still don't care for it, I am positive that the reason I am tasting every spice is because of the ceramic coil. It really seems to bring out the nuances of multiple-ingredient recipes. My coil is still white, and I only got a little bit of dark juice back on my Q-tip when I ran it down the chimney and around the threads and, finally, into the ceramic coil before reassembling the tank. Flavor is still very good in tank #5, which is a juice I knew I liked-Heather's Heavenly Vapes' Caramel Cappucino. I am just starting to notice a little bit of flavor mutation but not enough to warrant changing the coil yet. Vapor is still very high. I am still vaping at 35w, and battery life is just meh. I only got about a tank's worth off of a 3000 mAh battery at 35w. I am absolutely blown away at the consistency of each and every hit, though. I have had zero fluctuation in juice warmth, no dry hits, no hot hits whatsoever. Each and every hit is exactly the same in that regard. Amazing.

 

[sultanofswag]

That mod is HOT!!! I hope you will be posting pics when you get it!

Will do, but I don't expect it to receive it before Christmas.

 

[LouisLeBeau]

Louis! Hi and welcome to the sintered coil revolution. I personally was not concerned with whether there would be ceramic dust left behind after the sintering process, so I will be patiently awaiting your findings. The only experience I have with ceramics is from 5th grade when I made a pair of ceramic praying hands for my mom, lol. I have been cleaning extra juice out of my coil and chimney in my usual OCD fashion and other than that first tank of very dark juice residue I have not found anything untoward on a Q-tip.

So you didn't try the coil without the filter? Man you are missing out on some ridiculous flavor! I have had the best flavor experience in my history of vaping from this coil. It's funny because I just finished a tank of juice I didn't care for (a pumpkin doughnut flavor) when I got it because it was too cakey so I let it steep for a few weeks. Now I don't like the juice because I can taste all of the spices in the pumpkin, lol! It's kinda crazy but it's true!

It was a concern once long ago, in using sintered ceramic aquarium airstones as wicks in Genesis. If you look up inhalation and sintered ceramic, OSHA has hazard warnings in place.

I abandoned using Genii's before I ever saw any resolution. Also, not knowing if it is sintered as a tube as is, or as a rod and then drilled out, gave me some concerns. After drawing a tank through it, checking several times, I can say that there appears to be NO ceramic offal in the filter. And now, using it without the filter, the flavor IS fabulous, the vapor production is fabulous as well.

The airflow control is a bit of a joke though. The difference in volume between fully open and half closed is minimal, and barely detectable. Beyond 50% closed, the change is noticeable even at small increments. All this tells me is that there is something, either the passages or the inner diameter of the .2 Ni coil, that actually determines maximum airflow and not the AFC. Picture of the filter from a tankfull through a brand new coil is attached. The white spots are merely reflections, not ceramic. No residue at high magnification is visible at all.

 

[cooladdict]

It was a concern once long ago, in using sintered ceramic aquarium airstones as wicks in Genesis. If you look up inhalation and sintered ceramic, OSHA has hazard warnings in place.

I abandoned using Genii's before I ever saw any resolution. Also, not knowing if it is sintered as a tube as is, or as a rod and then drilled out, gave me some concerns. After drawing a tank through it, checking several times, I can say that there appears to be NO ceramic offal in the filter. And now, using it without the filter, the flavor IS fabulous, the vapor production is fabulous as well.

The airflow control is a bit of a joke though. The difference in volume between fully open and half closed is minimal, and barely detectable. Beyond 50% closed, the change is noticeable even at small increments. All this tells me is that there is something, either the passages or the inner diameter of the .2 Ni coil, that actually determines maximum airflow and not the AFC. Picture of the filter from a tankfull through a brand new coil is attached. The white spots are merely reflections, not ceramic. No residue at high magnification is visible at all.

Thanks, Louis! I knew nothing about the aquarium filter thing and I appreciate the info. I am really glad this coil seems to be clean. That shot of your filter is amazing!

I have to agree about the airflow, but I am very happy with draw so for me it's NBD.

I can't wait to try the nickle coil out, but the Kanthal one just won't die, lol!

 

[100%VG]

That's great that boiling seems to be a good way to clean them. I wonder if UC would be as effective? I am planning on getting an ultrasonic cleaner here soon so I might give that a try, too. Thanks for the lowdown on rebuilding! It's good to know that they actually can be rebuilt.

I don't have an Ultrasonic Cleaner. It may work well, and you can try it to see if you can revive a cCell. It's just me and a thought, but I'd want to know if the high frequency vibrations could damage the integrity of the ceramic. Hopefully, someone who knows about a sintered ceramic being cleaned this way can jump in with more information.

In my failed "cleaning" process, I just realized that the time being heated in the pot without water in it could have done some of the whitening, too. So reviving a cCell is still something that needs more investigation.

I would think that the PGA bath helped to loosen whatever was clogging the ceramic by dissolving it, and then boiling in water washed it out, but this remains to be seen by doing it successfully that way. My Kanthal ceramic cylinder is out of the cCell and soaking in PGA now, by itself. I'll reassemble it in a cCell and try that process again.
.

 

[100%VG]

It was a concern once long ago, in using sintered ceramic aquarium airstones as wicks in Genesis. If you look up inhalation and sintered ceramic, OSHA has hazard warnings in place.

I abandoned using Genii's before I ever saw any resolution. Also, not knowing if it is sintered as a tube as is, or as a rod and then drilled out, gave me some concerns. After drawing a tank through it, checking several times, I can say that there appears to be NO ceramic offal in the filter. And now, using it without the filter, the flavor IS fabulous, the vapor production is fabulous as well.

The airflow control is a bit of a joke though. The difference in volume between fully open and half closed is minimal, and barely detectable. Beyond 50% closed, the change is noticeable even at small increments. All this tells me is that there is something, either the passages or the inner diameter of the .2 Ni coil, that actually determines maximum airflow and not the AFC. Picture of the filter from a tankfull through a brand new coil is attached. The white spots are merely reflections, not ceramic. No residue at high magnification is visible at all.

Hi Louis,

Thanks for the scientific approach.

The ceramic appears to be sintered in a mold with the coil on a rod placed inside. The coil legs are held in place somehow, exactly where they need to exit the finished ceramic tube. Then the powder is put into the mold, probably vibrated to settle it and remove air gaps, and all of that is sintered.

I say this because the cCells that I received had partially exposed coils down the center, and the wires' appearance was rounded, not cut.
.

 

[100%VG]

Thanks, Louis! I knew nothing about the aquarium filter thing and I appreciate the info. I am really glad this coil seems to be clean. That shot of your filter is amazing!

I have to agree about the airflow, but I am very happy with draw so for me it's NBD.

I can't wait to try the nickle coil out, but the Kanthal one just won't die, lol!

You will also find the airflow between cCell types to be different. This is because the coil diameter of Kanthal is different than that of Ni200, and therefore, so is the airflow between types.
.

 

[Katya]

That's great that boiling seems to be a good way to clean them. I wonder if UC would be as effective? I am planning on getting an ultrasonic cleaner here soon so I might give that a try, too. Thanks for the lowdown on rebuilding! It's good to know that they actually can be rebuilt.

FWIW, I own one and don't use it anymore, really. For a quick coil cleaning on the go, a quick soak in PGA/denture cleaning solution and/or a quick boil in a microwave (fully submerged, of course, 5 minutes or so, full power) seems to work best.

ETA: I only tried these techniques with stock coils with silica wicks--I wouldn't do it with cotton coils.

 

[100%VG]

Rebuilding information update:

Because of my failed cleaning experience, I have been able to learn more about the way a cCell is actually put together since my last update. I was wrong about part of it.

In working with the boiled one more, I discovered that what I've been calling the press-fit ring is actually the bottom of the inside chamber. There is an o-ring around it near the bottom. The sintered cell is wrapped and inserted from the top. This is inserted into the gold-plated casing, and stops against the silicone seal (not spacer) at the top. The White Grommet and Plus Pin actually fit into the bottom of the inner chamber.

It should be pretty simple to rebuild using a vertical coil wrapped with strips from a Japanese Organic Cotton pad. I see now that the vertical coil and wrapped cotton can be inserted into the top of the inner chamber, and the silicone spacer seal needs to stay in there.

In a cCell, the two very thin strips of fibrous material are 47mm long and 10mm wide (measuring used fibrous material strips). They are wrapped around the ceramic cylinder together, touching each other before they are wrapped. Keeping the silicone spacer seal inside, on the top of the inner chamber (and it needs to be there to help seal the inner chamber to the outer casing), a vertical coil can be about 9mm tall (maybe 10mm).

Your coil can have an inside diameter of your choice, up to 5.5mm, because that's the diameter of the air hole in the top of a cCell Head's outer casing. The finished coil wrapped with cotton should be 9mm-10mm tall, but not any taller than 10mm. My ceramic tube is 9mm high, and I think the extra millimeter of cotton helps to insulate the coil legs inside the chamber below the ceramic. I'd need to see an unused cCell to know precisely. When done the way that will be described shortly, this will not be a concern.

This also means that a flat-ended cylindrical rod up to 5.5mm in diameter can be used to disassemble a cCell. In the video, I used a 4mm coil-building rod from a HorizonTech Phantom Sub Ohm Tank's RBA Head rebuilding packet, because it was handy. You can use up to a 5.5mm Drill Bit, or up to a 7/32" Drill Bit.

You would remove the Plus Pin, White Grommet, and wire-type-indicating O-Ring (to keep from damaging it), and mount the cCell upright on anything that will accommodate the following process without damaging it or its threads. Place your rod or drill bit on the ceramic inside, and tap it out through the bottom.

The one I did this with had been cut apart and the ceramic was already removed, so I screwed it into the Target Tank Base and tapped the inner chamber down into it. There is plenty of room for this in the Base Section, and it would be more safely done with a cCell that hasn't been cut apart, because I lost the lip that the cCell stops on when screwed down. I did this gently and carefully so I would not damage the threads of either. And I do mean TAP it out, not Bang on it.​

I'll rebuild mine with the negative coil leg exiting from the top. I'll leave the negative leg outside of the wrapped cotton, bend it over the top and bend it again going downward (outside of the cotton) to the grommet that holds the plus pin. The wire length used will be long enough to accommodate this because I don't have a NR-R-NR Wire Welder. I'll keep the wire a little lower than the top of the cotton so it doesn't heat the silicone spacer too much, at least not directly (but legs don't usually glow red or get that hot).

This should ground it very near the coil, and make more of the width of only the coil itself count toward the total resistance seen by the Mod. Most of the leg length going downward to the grommet will be shorted to ground. The positive leg will leave the bottom of the coil going straight down to the plus pin. This way, both legs will be pretty short.

That's what I'm going to try first with Ni200, anyway. I'll video the procedure to show how it comes apart, goes back together, and why it works this way.
.

 

[cooladdict]

I don't have an Ultrasonic Cleaner. It may work well, and you can try it to see if you can revive a cCell. It's just me and a thought, but I'd want to know if the high frequency vibrations could damage the integrity of the ceramic. Hopefully, someone who knows about a sintered ceramic being cleaned this way can jump in with more information.

In my failed "cleaning" process, I just realized that the time being heated in the pot without water in it could have done some of the whitening, too. So reviving a cCell is still something that needs more investigation.

I would think that the PGA bath helped to loosen whatever was clogging the ceramic by dissolving it, and then boiling in water washed it out, but this remains to be seen by doing it successfully that way. My Kanthal ceramic cylinder is out of the cCell and soaking in PGA now, by itself. I'll reassemble it in a cCell and try that process again.
.

Okay I hope someone who cleans with UC does chime in. I was thinking it would be safe in the little basket, as fine jewelry is okay to clean that way, but I really don't know. I am getting one as soon as my Amazon credit is rebuilt enough (next week) so I will test out the kanthal coil that way. In the meantime, I will throw it in a little dish with PG. Thanks VG!

 

[cooladdict]

You will also find the airflow between cCell types to be different. This is because the coil diameter of Kanthal is different than that of Ni200, and therefore, so is the airflow between types.
.

Funny you should mention that! I just now replaced the kanthal head with the nickle and the first thing I did was play with the airflow. I have it adjusted to about halfway right now and it is definitely tighter than it was all the way open. The draw is tighter with this coil than it was with the kanthal, too.

 

[cooladdict]

FWIW, I own one and don't use it anymore, really. For a quick coil cleaning on the go, a quick soak in PGA/denture cleaning solution and/or a quick boil in a microwave (fully submerged, of course, 5 minutes or so, full power) seems to work best.

ETA: I only tried these techniques with stock coils with silica wicks--I wouldn't do it with cotton coils.

Thanks, Katya! I didn't know you could safely microwave metal if it was submerged. Learn something new every day! I was already planning on a UC cleaner for jewelry cleaning and for DIY, which is what made me wonder about cleaning this coil.

 

[cooladdict]

After 5 full tanks of various and sundry juices, it was time to change the coil in the Target tank. Somewhere around the beginning of that tank I noticed my juice was starting to become muted and by the end of it it was definitely time.

When I removed the kanthal coil I noticed that the ceramic was BLACK. I wish I had taken a picture every time I refilled the tank, but I didn't. I do know that after tank #3 the coil was still white.

I replaced the coil with the nickle head that came with the kit, noticing it reads .18 ohms. The Target did not recognize that I had switched to nickle and I had to switch modes the old-fashioned way. That first hit, though!! I started at the preset 450 degrees and the flavor absolutely outstanding. I am vaping one of my favorite juices, Vape Moar's Autumn Spice, and for the very first time I can taste the toffee flavor in this mix. It's incredibly rich and smooth, and the apple that is the main note in this juice tastes like an actual apple.

Before I turned the temp up I decided to check the coil recognition feature again and I replaced the Target tank with one that has a regular kanthal coil in it. I got a message asking me, "Old load New load" so I told it New load (by pressing up button) and it stayed in TC mode. Huh. I then replaced the Target tank with the nickle head in it and it didn't ask me anything. It stayed in TC mode and I was able to vape right away. So far, coil recognition on my mod doesn't work at all. I have to manually switch modes when switching wire types. Bummer. I was really hoping it would work because I have both TC and kanthal coils in a couple of different tanks and I don't feel safe using any of them. For this mod, I will only be able to use the Target tank so I know for sure which type of wire I have loaded.

 

[100%VG]

Okay I hope someone who cleans with UC does chime in. I was thinking it would be safe in the little basket, as fine jewelry is okay to clean that way, but I really don't know. I am getting one as soon as my Amazon credit is rebuilt enough (next week) so I will test out the kanthal coil that way. In the meantime, I will throw it in a little dish with PG. Thanks VG!

Just in case you actually meant to type PG, I soaked mine in PGA, Pure Grain Alcohol, aka Grain Alcohol. I use Everclear, but it is also available in other brands. Two of them are Alcohol-95 and Golden Grain. Some others are listed here.

Pure Grain Alcohol is a double distilled spirit derived from the fermentation of grain. It is, at 190 proof or 95% alcohol content, extremely potent, and should not be used straight for dinking.

PGA is the same thing as Ethanol and Ethyl Alcohol. PGA is also known to as Rectified Spirit, because it is highly concentrated ethanol which has been purified by means of repeated distillation, a process that is called Rectification.

Everclear, Alcohol-95, and Golden Grain are 190 proof. Everclear can be found in many grocery stores, but 192 proof (96% alcohol) is available in some brands, too.
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