Aga-T wick length and coil wraps?

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gdeal

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For increased vapor, if you have juice bubbling between the coils, try upping the voltage. Do a test fire, look out for red coil glow. Try it in a dark room to test the capability of your wick to handle the higher power. It you can see red coil glow in the the dark you hit your max. (If you do hit it, they should all glow evenly BTW)


Also, I could not tell from your video if after that fireworks display if your wick was drying out or was able to keep up. Good luck. :)
 

vapdivrr

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Yes more surface area. Its subtle but different, I go back and forth with 28g. If I have patience, I will use the ribbon. You need to play with twisting it at the base screw and positive pole nut to make it flat to fit underneath. It also likes to twists in the coil too. Petar K coil method helps, but wire want to turn, so its difficult to get a good/perfect apposition to the wick.

Gotta agree on the provari. I hear all sort of issues with other VV/VW devices here on the forum with lower than 1.2ohm coils. I had a .9 ohm coil going a week or so a go and had no problems either. The only issue I see is that if I push it to >12 watts on the low ohm coils it will error code me. But that is in the spec. Then again I usually stay at a around 10 to 11 watts. Its strange, but that 2-5 second difference in low ohm startup makes a noticeable difference in vape experience.

+1 on the provari low ohm protection. I would rather "error out" than run for a fire extinguisher....

ya, sometimes if i am doing a sub-1 ohm coil i can get to around 13 watts, before an e-1. i think its the amps. yesterday i got my ac-9, the set-ups that i use for my DID'S and aga-t are not working with the ac. i just cannot get it to wick enough. at first i thought because of the kind of burnt taste or no taste, that it was the 28g. so i went to 30g, no difference. i then thought it was the low ohms that i was using, so i did more wraps of 30g. i got to about 1.5 and just didnt like it. to me you dont get as thick of a vape as with a coil at 1.0. but anyway that wasnt it also. lastly i figures it must be the wicking, although the coil looked wet. i tried some different meshes, other than the 500 that has been working well on my other set-ups. tried some 270 & 400. no difference. contacted rip and said that it was designed to work with the 325 (the only one i didnt have), and to use this exact dimensions for the mesh 40 x 45 mm, which is probably a fairly thin walled, big hole wick,(which is opposite of the wick i usaully do). and to use 28g to an ohm reading of 1.3 to 1.4. so i will try this exact set-up to see. its strange that one genny can be so different to another.
 

gdeal

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ya, sometimes if i am doing a sub-1 ohm coil i can get to around 13 watts, before an e-1. i think its the amps. yesterday i got my ac-9, the set-ups that i use for my DID'S and aga-t are not working with the ac. i just cannot get it to wick enough. at first i thought because of the kind of burnt taste or no taste, that it was the 28g. so i went to 30g, no difference. i then thought it was the low ohms that i was using, so i did more wraps of 30g. i got to about 1.5 and just didnt like it. to me you dont get as thick of a vape as with a coil at 1.0. but anyway that wasnt it also. lastly i figures it must be the wicking, although the coil looked wet. i tried some different meshes, other than the 500 that has been working well on my other set-ups. tried some 270 & 400. no difference. contacted
rip and said that it was designed to work with the 325
(the only one i didnt have), and to use this exact dimensions for the mesh 40 x 45 mm, which is probably a fairly thin walled, big hole wick,(which is opposite of the wick i usaully do). and to use 28g to an ohm reading of 1.3 to 1.4. so i will try this exact set-up to see. its strange that one genny can be so different to another.

That an interesting statement by rip. Based upon capillary dynamics, all things being equal, the smaller the pore size the higher liquid can rise. The only other factors are those that effect the rate of wicking which are surface tension and liquid viscosity. If you are using the same juice, same wick material and are using the same wick rolling technique, you should get better results with a high grade of wick.

I use to think that the atty can effect the wick. But unless you are pinching the wick in the wick hole or do not have a space between wick and wick hole or other means for tank pressure adjustment, there should be no real change in wicking. From a vape perspective it would changed due to how the cap is configured or the difference in cap size or airhole size/location, etc....

Anyway, where I was going with this is that I had the same issue with a Cobra. Initially it just would not perform. So I took a wick/coil out of a Dud that was performing great and put it in the Cobra. Bingo. it wicked and vaped great. The only thing I could tell that was different was that the Dud wick was thinner and creating a bigger space between wick and wick hole in the Cobra. But even with that difference, I really think it was just that I got the wick roll right with Dud.

Sorry, did not mean to go on a rant...just thinking out loud. Hope you nail it, I read that the ac-9 is a great atty.
 

dwcraig1

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Well the way I see it either I need to go back to 32 gauge wire or buy a mechanical mod were I can go down to 1 ohm, what, what's that you say? Provari? Maybe, anyway I could take some coils off to bring it down to 1.3 ohms I guess (Vmax).
Hey it works really good at like 7 volts if you don't mind BBQ'n your lips. I counted somehing like 11 coils on one and 12 on the other.
Actually they do work pretty good but are a work in progress. I tighten up the coils, I should have removed a few while at it but tomorrow's another day
DSCN1736.jpgDSCN1737.jpg
 

vapdivrr

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That an interesting statement by rip. Based upon capillary dynamics, all things being equal, the smaller the pore size the higher liquid can rise. The only other factors are those that effect the rate of wicking which are surface tension and liquid viscosity. If you are using the same juice, same wick material and are using the same wick rolling technique, you should get better results with a high grade of wick.

I use to think that the atty can effect the wick. But unless you are pinching the wick in the wick hole or do not have a space between wick and wick hole or other means for tank pressure adjustment, there should be no real change in wicking. From a vape perspective it would changed due to how the cap is configured or the difference in cap size or airhole size/location, etc....

Anyway, where I was going with this is that I had the same issue with a Cobra. Initially it just would not perform. So I took a wick/coil out of a Dud that was performing great and put it in the Cobra. Bingo. it wicked and vaped great. The only thing I could tell that was different was that the Dud wick was thinner and creating a bigger space between wick and wick hole in the Cobra. But even with that difference, I really think it was just that I got the wick roll right with Dud.

Sorry, did not mean to go on a rant...just thinking out loud. Hope you nail it, I read that the ac-9 is a great atty.

i see what your saying, with both my other gennys they work great with the 500 rolled really tight, and for the ac-9 to be completely different makes me wonder. i have tried a few different wicks and coils with it with no results. but i havent actually tried to take the wick out of a good working atty to see. the only difference i see in the ac-9 is that the distance from the juice in the tank to the coils is alot farther then in my other devices. its like the juice has to travel alot farther up the wick on the ac-9. not sure if that makes a difference.
 

vapdivrr

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Well the way I see it either I need to go back to 32 gauge wire or buy a mechanical mod were I can go down to 1 ohm, what, what's that you say? Provari? Maybe, anyway I could take some coils off to bring it down to 1.3 ohms I guess (Vmax).
Hey it works really good at like 7 volts if you don't mind BBQ'n your lips. I counted somehing like 11 coils on one and 12 on the other.
Actually they do work pretty good but are a work in progress. I tighten up the coils, I should have removed a few while at it but tomorrow's another day
View attachment 164238View attachment 164239

yah thats a ton of coils, that just seems like to much can happen, to hard to get all the coils to run just right. i really believe that the thicker wire is a benefit to a low ohmed set-up, rather then a higher resistant set-up. if your into high resistant coils you need to stick with 32g. doing 7,8 or more wraps of 28 or 30 just doesnt seem right.
 

dwcraig1

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yah thats a ton of coils, that just seems like to much can happen, to hard to get all the coils to run just right. i really believe that the thicker wire is a benefit to a low ohmed set-up, rather then a higher resistant set-up. if your into high resistant coils you need to stick with 32g. doing 7,8 or more wraps of 28 or 30 just doesnt seem right.
I am in total agreement

I changed the one with the solid wick down to 1.3 ohmsI still have a couple loose coils on the bottom.
I put the shaft back in and pulled the wire from the ground srew end and it tightened up the coil.
I'm thinking my wick is a little deformed in that spot. It vapes real good though.
NOTE: less coilsDSCN1742.jpg
I now have them loose coils tighten up, it' all good now
 
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dwcraig1

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I have now accomplished the task at hand, here they are again all tightened up (I hope) with some of those excess coils removed.
Hollow 400 28K@1.6 ohms.jpgSolid 500 28K@1.3 ohms.jpg


Notice that 3rd washer at the bottom of the center post, you certainly don't want that post moving around when you screw it on your mod
 
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Azphat12

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I got the 28awg wrapped 9 times.
It is vaping decent.... but really only if my battery has good charge. Seems if it gets under 3.7v it starts to lower the vapor.
Im going to try and buy 2 18350's and see what happens. Maybe that will solve it.
It is no longer getting really hot on the top cap. But it does take a little bit for the coils to warm up. Moreso than the 32awg.
The 32awg lights right up.... the 28awg takes maybe 2 or 3 seconds of holding down the fire button.

I also found that my coil gets gunked up pretty fast. Im using a diy 50/50 menthol.
I am able to pull the wick...dry burn the coils...then put the wick back in. This seems to keep it going good.
 

dwcraig1

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I got the 28awg wrapped 9 times.
It is vaping decent.... but really only if my battery has good charge. Seems if it gets under 3.7v it starts to lower the vapor.
Im going to try and buy 2 18350's and see what happens. Maybe that will solve it.
It is no longer getting really hot on the top cap. But it does take a little bit for the coils to warm up. Moreso than the 32awg.
The 32awg lights right up.... the 28awg takes maybe 2 or 3 seconds of holding down the fire button.

I also found that my coil gets gunked up pretty fast. Im using a diy 50/50 menthol.
I am able to pull the wick...dry burn the coils...then put the wick back in. This seems to keep it going good.

It seems from what I'm reading and experiencing is that in order to get the 28 guage wire hot quick is to have it in the 1 ohm area, most VV's except Provari(.8) will not fire anything below 1.2 ohms. I'm just repeating what I learned here.

You will get better results with the 18350's stacked, that's what I am using
 

EDO

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28g>30g>32g when it comes to responsiveness...when you use the same amount of wire....the number of wraps. But when you compare them using ohms...then you have to use a lot more 28g wire (10 wraps) than 32g wire (4 wraps) to create a 1.8 ohm coil for example. The heat sink effect of the mesh will make the 32g wire a lot more responsive since less wire is in contact with it. Unless you are using a mechanical mod you will have a hard time making the 28g wire work for you. You will be better off with the 30g or 32g if you have a provari. With the lavatube/vamo your really better off with the 32g, unless you make your coils like me...I put 6 wraps in a 3mm area with the 30g.
 

sawlight

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OK, got the hot spot out.
I went 5/6 wraps with 32ga, using 400SS wrapped over a 1/16" drill bit using the Petar K method. Wrapped with a drill bit, burnt the coil in, no hot spots, all was well, burnt the wick in with a lighter and finally got it in the coil. Hot spot after hot spot! My Provari was freaking out! E1, E2, E8 and so on!
I loosened the top nut, moved the wick closer to the center post and burnt some fluid on the top coil. Everything is happy now, nice burn, 2 ohms, lots of vapor.
Now my problem! It tastes like burnt ....! I had it half full, then filled it up, no change. If I drip it mellows out, I'm tilting it so the wick is on the bottom to make sure it's feeding, but this is reminding me of why I got rid of the Vivi novas! Please tell me it gets better as it burns in or I did something wrong with my wick? Right now I'm about ready to try silica wick or just stick with carto tanks!
I've played with my Trivveca (Rainbow) dripping atty with the factory coil and it tastes fine until it's dry so I know it's not the juice.
 

xbassman

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Sawlight, it sounds like there may be residual machine oil on your mesh.
Lance @ steammonkey.com said his mesh supplier confirmed they use it in manufacturing.

I have only made a couple of wicks so far and can tell you IME I get way more flavor with them compared to vivis or cartos.

I torched mine once, then rolled.
Then I torched again 3 or 4 times until I got no or high resistance readings on my meter.

You may want to dump your tank and burn your wick some more.


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