Anything specific i should know about building with SS wire?

[Imfallen_Angel]

It isn't implausible that he's seeing what he's seeing, and that adding wraps made it better (it - not fixed, but better). With any sort of additional resistance in a TC circuit (ie - over and above the coil itself and the expected resistance from the tank/RDA) you'd introduce an error in the TC "math." I know the DNA boards (and probably the Yihi boards) expect some value of resistance for the tank, but I don't know what it is. Anyhow, adding more wraps to increase the base/cold resistance of the coil would reduce the error, might even make it OK to vape. The real fix, of course, is to disassemble and clean every threaded connection in the tank that conducts, the first step to that is to use something to measure ohms, put a coil in the mod and measure, and then short the posts and measure. There's the 510 threading into the mod, the threading of the positive post into the block (the old Russian 91's had a threaded connection into a screw which threaded into the block for an extra connection), usually a threaded "cover" onto the base (which has the 510 threads at the bottom), and the connection points for the coil at the least. I use Aqua 2's and have to pay attention to that "cover," as the threading to the base likes to come loose and mess with even the resistance seen on wattage mode.

Thing is.. I didn't need to clean or anything, and this was on any of my single coil tanks... just did more wraps, stopped caring about my ohm reading and everything works now with 0.4 to 0.9 coils. Note that the same tanks and mods worked just fine with NI200 regardless of the ohm reading, so it wasn't a contact or tank/base resistance issue.

You're basically confirming what I've been saying... more mass, less error, the mods weren't able to read before, and now they can.

Maybe not the most elegant "solution" that some would want as they need something to prove, but hey, sometime the solution is simpler than we think.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I also have no luck with SS in temp control.

I've never used a DNA board though, and the last YiHi board was in the IPV4

Tried a recent build with 316L and just starting low 300F the mod will fire and read 250 degrees max at the 15W I was running the build, but let me assure you the temp was way hotter than 250 degrees. tried some various TCRs and doesn't seem.
Note: this is just a recent incident, but I've never had a stable TC experience with SS on any of my mods, however I blame the MOD's more so then the wire.

What are you building? single/dual, size, number of wraps?

TC will work better with spaced and no hot spots coils (of course)

Using 26 and 28 gauge, I've been able to get things working fine.

If single, try putting in as many wraps as you can fit in there.

I've been getting my coils to work perfectly (single or dual) when I aim for higher ohm reading... usually 0.4 up to 0.9.

 

[pappasmurfsharem]

What are you building? single/dual, size, number of wraps?

TC will work better with spaced and no hot spots coils (of course)

Using 26 and 28 gauge, I've been able to get things working fine.

If single, try putting in as many wraps as you can fit in there.

I've been getting my coils to work perfectly (single or dual) when I aim for higher ohm reading... usually 0.4 up to 0.9.

A little of all the above really.

But most recent case is Spaced 30 AWG 316L around 2.0MM and ~1 - 1.2 ohm 7-8 wraps trying to get a decent tootlepuffer build since I seem to be back into MTL and my DB160 and Hadaly aren't getting much use.

Using it in power mode and its fine, but I was hoping to get a bit more consistency with TC

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

A little of all the above really.

But most recent case is Spaced 30 AWG 316L around 2.0MM and ~1 - 1.2 ohm 7-8 wraps trying to get a decent tootlepuffer build since I seem to be back into MTL and my DB160 and Hadaly aren't getting much use.

Using it in power mode and its fine, but I was hoping to get a bit more consistency with TC

yeah.. when my single builds wouldn't work in TC, I had to stick with wattage mod...

But at 30gauge and 2mm (and 7 wraps), yeah, there's not much mass there.

If you have larger gauge, try my suggestion, try and fill the deck more. If you don't, use your 30 as a quick and dirty clapton: fold a length in two and twist.

7-8 wraps should be able to give you something that work. (and around 0.9ohm if I'm doing math right)

 

[Flavored]

Thing is.. I didn't need to clean or anything, and this was on any of my single coil tanks... just did more wraps, stopped caring about my ohm reading and everything works now with 0.4 to 0.9 coils. Note that the same tanks and mods worked just fine with NI200 regardless of the ohm reading, so it wasn't a contact or tank/base resistance issue.

You're basically confirming what I've been saying... more mass, less error, the mods weren't able to read before, and now they can.

Maybe not the most elegant "solution" that some would want as they need something to prove, but hey, sometime the solution is simpler than we think.

Well, kinda, NI200 has about 7X the TCR of SS316. As a temperature control material, it is vastly more precise. Couple a resistance issue with a low TCR, and everything is working against you. You can measure your tank resistance, it is easy, and then you would know. There are some tanks/RDA's that are unfit for TC due to the connection resistance, and they'd be moreso with low TCR materials.
I only run DNA boards, and I've run both SS316 and SS430 TC in them successfully. My preferred tank requires great care, as it wasn't really built for TC, kinda preceded its wider use, but I've confirmed that my Kanthal vaping style (35W on twin coils) is pretty much in the low 400's, so I'll likely do that primarily as a hassle reduction.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Well, kinda, NI200 has about 7X the TCR of SS316. As a temperature control material, it is vastly more precise. Couple a resistance issue with a low TCR, and everything is working against you. You can measure your tank resistance, it is easy, and then you would know. There are some tanks/RDA's that are unfit for TC due to the connection resistance, and they'd be moreso with low TCR materials.
I only run DNA boards, and I've run both SS316 and SS430 TC in them successfully. My preferred tank requires great care, as it wasn't really built for TC, kinda preceded its wider use, but I've confirmed that my Kanthal vaping style (35W on twin coils) is pretty much in the low 400's, so I'll likely do that primarily as a hassle reduction.

hmm.. to be curious, I'll check to confirm, but I do know that most of my tanks and RDAs are TC "capable", but this could be a worthwhile exercise.

 

[ShowerHead]

I came in late and didn't read the entire thread, just the last 2 pages.
For me, on Yihi 350x chips, DNA 75/200/250 chips I don't believe I've ever gotten a good TC vape with 316L.
Ni, Ti, SS 430, NiFe52, all great. Tried 316L over time on several mod/tank combos. I've even bought wire from different vendors thinking the wire was to blame.
The 316L always vapes great in power mode but switch to TC and it is anemic.

I could beat myself to death trying to make it work. Or, I could do what I did and move to wire that does work well in TC. For me, that is SS 430 and NiFe52. I kinda had to, my lovely coil assistant has disposed of the 316L.

"Why do you want to try this again?" Um, maybe it'll work on this tank?

 

[mcclintock]

I've heard it claimed that Nichrome heats up faster than Kanthal, but this was a mech issue and actually Nichrome is denser than Kanthal and the exact same size coil with the same amount of power heats up slower. SS is denser still, and is slightly slower yet. Fast is GOOD, an actual power mismatch is not.

I've built Kanthal, Ni80 and SS coils with the same number of wraps and run at the same power and they are identical! The only difference is in the temp of the mod itself, it runs easiest with Kanthal due to the increased resistance, rather than down in the 3 volt range with SS. At this wire gauge, anyway.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Do your mods use the DNA or a different chip?

None are DNA, (I've been waiting for my Therion to show up for months now, it appears that it's been coming on the slowest boat they could find).

But my "results" have been consistent between Leaf, Joytech and SMOK mods (total of 6 mods), so it's not something that I'm very concerned about.

 

[Flavored]

None are DNA, (I've been waiting for my Therion to show up for months now, it appears that it's been coming on the slowest boat they could find).

But my "results" have been consistent between Leaf, Joytech and SMOK mods (total of 6 mods), so it's not something that I'm very concerned about.

Ok, I'm not really familiar with the Yihi chips, but you're not the first I've seen with SS difficulties, as Showerhead (below) mentions. NI is far better for control, but is terrible to work with, being as soft as it is. When I mentioned I'd confirmed my Kanthal builds were within the alleged "safe" temperature range, all I did was build TC coils with the same gauge and turns as my Kanthal builds, set the Watts to my normal 35, T in the low 400's, and vape, watching for TC to kick in. Vaping hard and repetitively, I could get it there, but I don't do that. So, in those tanks, when it is time for a new coil, I'll like switch back to Kanthal, less hassle, and I know how to wick to avoid dry hits.

I came in late and didn't read the entire thread, just the last 2 pages.
For me, on Yihi 350x chips, DNA 75/200/250 chips I don't believe I've ever gotten a good TC vape with 316L.
Ni, Ti, SS 430, NiFe52, all great. Tried 316L over time on several mod/tank combos. I've even bought wire from different vendors thinking the wire was to blame.
The 316L always vapes great in power mode but switch to TC and it is anemic.

I could beat myself to death trying to make it work. Or, I could do what I did and move to wire that does work well in TC. For me, that is SS 430 and NiFe52. I kinda had to, my lovely coil assistant has disposed of the 316L.

"Why do you want to try this again?" Um, maybe it'll work on this tank?

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Ok, I'm not really familiar with the Yihi chips, but you're not the first I've seen with SS difficulties, as Showerhead (below) mentions. NI is far better for control, but is terrible to work with, being as soft as it is. When I mentioned I'd confirmed my Kanthal builds were within the alleged "safe" temperature range, all I did was build TC coils with the same gauge and turns as my Kanthal builds, set the Watts to my normal 35, T in the low 400's, and vape, watching for TC to kick in. Vaping hard and repetitively, I could get it there, but I don't do that. So, in those tanks, when it is time for a new coil, I'll like switch back to Kanthal, less hassle, and I know how to wick to avoid dry hits.

For NI200, I find 30 and 26 to be quite springy, but that is "fixed" by a very short pulse (if you have a tester that you can heat the wire with), just enough to "burn the coating" and the metal hardens a bit. 28 for some result is just fine.

TI is probably the worst, it makes the springiness of NI200 laughable by comparison, and since them, more and more info has come out to show that TI is NOT a good wire to use, as it's more dangerous should it be overheated. (but I found it to have a very metallic taste).

But as I've been saying for these last few days, the difference that adding a few more wraps was huge... and since then, I've yet to have a single coil give me trouble with the TC now. I just rebuild a Lemo 2 (a few days ago) with SS and on a Joytech, it worked perfectly on the first try.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I came in late and didn't read the entire thread, just the last 2 pages.
For me, on Yihi 350x chips, DNA 75/200/250 chips I don't believe I've ever gotten a good TC vape with 316L.
Ni, Ti, SS 430, NiFe52, all great. Tried 316L over time on several mod/tank combos. I've even bought wire from different vendors thinking the wire was to blame.
The 316L always vapes great in power mode but switch to TC and it is anemic.

I could beat myself to death trying to make it work. Or, I could do what I did and move to wire that does work well in TC. For me, that is SS 430 and NiFe52. I kinda had to, my lovely coil assistant has disposed of the 316L.

"Why do you want to try this again?" Um, maybe it'll work on this tank?

What kind of builds were you doing?... as you've read this thread, you must have seen that I eventually got it to work, and it was by simply stopping to aim for my usual ohm range of 0.2, and just built as large as I could within the deck... mostly with 26 gauge. I've been going for 0.5 and higher (up to 0.9) and it's been great since.

 

[schatz]

I decided to try tc for the first time and am having a hard time getting my stm to work. I used 26g ss and did 5 wraps and it came out to 3 ohms I think. I then tried an Aromamizer with 2 coils at 2.5 diam and 7 wraps for each coil and it works. whats the deal with my stms, anybody have any ideas. I also am using a k box 200. Thanks.

 

[ShowerHead]

What kind of builds were you doing?... as you've read this thread, you must have seen that I eventually got it to work, and it was by simply stopping to aim for my usual ohm range of 0.2, and just built as large as I could within the deck... mostly with 26 gauge. I've been going for 0.5 and higher (up to 0.9) and it's been great since.

Single wire coils, 28 or 27 gauge, spaced, 7/6 wraps.
Just never did get a good vape out of SS 316L, though others say they do.
When I can use a different wire, why bother chasing something that doesn't need chased?

 

[zoiDman]

I decided to try tc for the first time and am having a hard time getting my stm to work. I used 26g ss and did 5 wraps and it came out to 3 ohms I think. I then tried an Aromamizer with 2 coils at 2.5 diam and 7 wraps for each coil and it works. whats the deal with my stms, anybody have any ideas. I also am using a k box 200. Thanks.

Did you mean .3 Ohms?

I don't have a K-Box 200. But I have a TopTank Mini running a 5 Wrap 26ga 316L Coil (about .35 Ohms) on an eLeaf Pico. Runs Great in TC. Also runs great in VW Mode.

When you say your having a Hard Time getting things to work, what is it Doing? Or Not Doing?
What are you TC setting?

 

[schatz]

Did you mean .3 Ohms?

I don't have a K-Box 200. But I have a TopTank Mini running a 5 Wrap 26ga 316L Coil (about .35 Ohms) on an eLeaf Pico. Runs Great in TC. Also runs great in VW Mode.

When you say your having a Hard Time getting things to work, what is it Doing? Or Not Doing?
What are you TC setting?

Yes I meant to say .3 ohms. And it doesnt register at any temp setting. It sounds like you are basicly running the same build as I was trying, maybe my wraps are touching or something will have to investigate further. Also the k box does not ask for any info except what kind of wire your using, can this be accurate?

 

[zoiDman]

Yes I meant to say .3 ohms. And it doesnt register at any temp setting. It sounds like you are basicly running the same build as I was trying, maybe my wraps are touching or something will have to investigate further. Also the k box does not ask for any info except what kind of wire your using, can this be accurate?

I seem to Recall that when the K-Box first came out, people were saying that it Didn't do TC very well. That might have just been from the Kanger Haters? I didn't really follow it because I didn't have a K-Box.

Seems like there has to be some TC Settings? At the Very Lest, a Temperature for when TC is supposed to kick in.

 

[zoiDman]

Yes I meant to say .3 ohms. And it doesnt register at any temp setting. It sounds like you are basicly running the same build as I was trying, maybe my wraps are touching or something will have to investigate further. Also the k box does not ask for any info except what kind of wire your using, can this be accurate?

BTW - I run TC with Spaced Coils. It seems to Work Better that way.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Single wire coils, 28 or 27 gauge, spaced, 7/6 wraps.
Just never did get a good vape out of SS 316L, though others say they do.
When I can use a different wire, why bother chasing something that doesn't need chased?

Temp control?

 

[ShowerHead]

Temp control?

Oh yeah!