also, double check the measurements on your screen cradle before you dremmel the case - the hole for the one I got was 11x25mm, not 10x23 as in Mamu's tute. Must have ordered the wrong one! ;-)
Arlo - dual 18650 DNA20/30 step-by-step how-to
- Thread starter mamu
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If it gave you the correct width at 20mm, I'm not sure why it didn't print at 73mm. Just snip a bit off the top and the bottom of the template til it fits. Also, you can dremel off those top and bottom + and - center batt slots in the case as they aren't needed.
Yes - all those type of buttons are the same - same dimensions.
Just hook it up to a batt. Or if you have a breadboard you can breadboard the works - that's what I do. I always make sure the dna lights up and works before placing in the case.
If you got the 2mm cradle with the stop, it's a bit bigger than the one I'm working with which is without the stop.
Almost done with my VAMO version.
Just waiting on a lit tact switch, similar to the chargers power button, to come in.
I'll replace the VAMO V5 pcb's power tact switch with the lit tact switch, remove the - and + tact switches and wire them to the metal tact switches in the pic.
Pretty sure I'll have to put something on as a screen due to the size of the LCD on the VAMO pcb, and to help level the pcb out a bit.
Just waiting on a lit tact switch, similar to the chargers power button, to come in.
I'll replace the VAMO V5 pcb's power tact switch with the lit tact switch, remove the - and + tact switches and wire them to the metal tact switches in the pic.
Pretty sure I'll have to put something on as a screen due to the size of the LCD on the VAMO pcb, and to help level the pcb out a bit.
Thanks Mamu! "breadboard" was the nudge I needed. had no idea what that was until I googled it. I picked one up at Fry's and watched a couple of videos and figured it out. Clearly not rocket science, but my entire electronical experience up to a few weeks ago consisted of connecting two wires with a wire nut. ;-)
Everything worked (woohoo!) except for the down button (fixed it) but I'm not sure about the 510 wires. I didn't connect them and when I hit the fire button it said 'check atomizer'.
I was afraid to connect them - direct short is not a good thing, right? or is the dna smart enough to not fire that and I should get the appropriate error message when I try? something different than 'check atomizer'.
update on previous wonderings....
I tried to dremel that black button I liked down to size and ruined it (I had a spare). One side worked perfectly - using a saw, I took off just a tiny bit at a time and got it down to just above the wire hole. started on the other side and bit off more than I should have and it ripped the little nut off and flung it across the room, along with whatever connected it to the deep innards of the switch. ruined. I'll try again this weekend with the other one when I get back to this.
my plastic cutting skilz are really bad too. scratched the outside of the case pretty bad trimming. luckily, my exacto knife skills are better and the carbon fiber wrap looks great and covered up all my fat finger blemishes.
will probably only cover the one side, unless I screw up the other side too.
I tried to dremel that black button I liked down to size and ruined it (I had a spare). One side worked perfectly - using a saw, I took off just a tiny bit at a time and got it down to just above the wire hole. started on the other side and bit off more than I should have and it ripped the little nut off and flung it across the room, along with whatever connected it to the deep innards of the switch. ruined. I'll try again this weekend with the other one when I get back to this.
my plastic cutting skilz are really bad too. scratched the outside of the case pretty bad trimming. luckily, my exacto knife skills are better and the carbon fiber wrap looks great and covered up all my fat finger blemishes.
will probably only cover the one side, unless I screw up the other side too.
That is a good thing, and should display 'check atomizer' as the board is not detecting any resistance (hence because you don't have anything connected).
Yes the DNA is protecting you from the firing wire up to the atty, so if there is a short, etc your protected. If there is a short it will display "Shorted". You can test other things like "Locked mode", "Stealth mode", "Left Mode/Right Mode" , "Power Locked", go to evolv site and download the pdf it has all the goodness.
Thank you so much Mamu for this tutorial! I have been consumed with this build for weeks now. I am waiting on my fire button and screen cradle I can't wait much longer
Which firing button did you go with?
My DNA cradle arrived yesterday as well as the battery case, wow it's pretty small. I got excited about the size, then realized that is what I have to work with to make a vaping mod from, lol not so nice
it will be worth it once finished. Did I mention thank you @mamu!So I am short just a firing button (have not found a replacement to mamu's original find, will see what other's come up with) and DNA30 board, still no luck
BTW if it helps anyone, I order my 20 AWG red/black wire from here Search results for: '20 AWG'
Silicone jacket (for high temps, like when soldering) and high strand.
Silicone jacket (for high temps, like when soldering) and high strand.
yup, figured that out AS I was writing that, but not when I was testing it. We're all good!
I ordered 2 of these from ebay, but I have a feeling they will be too deep. So I spoke with a local DNA builder (Shansmods) and she is hooking me up tomorrow, Talk about lucky!
I did not have any luck with the finishing washer but once Shapeways builds my cradle I am set.
12mm 3V Blue LED Momentary Push Button Metal Switch FOR CAR Silver | eBay
I did not have any luck with the finishing washer but once Shapeways builds my cradle I am set.
12mm 3V Blue LED Momentary Push Button Metal Switch FOR CAR Silver | eBay
Ok I assume Mamu doesn't want you to risk your DNA chip so she doesn't mention it, but me being curious I had to try it. After doing a test run I plugged in the usb adapter that comes with the charging station into my phone and sure enough it still charges your phone! Now when it comes to the choice of vaping or a phone that's a no brainer but the option is there if you need it. Put a knife on this thing too and I can survive 3 days in the wilderness
@mamu, having trouble finding the 2 tactile switch with round silver actuator (KSJ0M21180SHLFT). My question is will these work? Thanks again.
$1.96 4-pin 6*6mm Pushbutton Switches (100-Pack) 100-pack - 100000-press cycles at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.96 4-pin 6*6mm Pushbutton Switches (100-Pack) 100-pack - 100000-press cycles at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Ok I assume Mamu doesn't want you to risk your DNA chip so she doesn't mention it, but me being curious I had to try it. After doing a test run I plugged in the usb adapter that comes with the charging station into my phone and sure enough it still charges your phone! Now when it comes to the choice of vaping or a phone that's a no brainer but the option is there if you need it. Put a knife on this thing too and I can survive 3 days in the wilderness
lol yes all the usb features are functional. I assumed ya'll would know that.
Of course they will work, but you will have a recessed button with that tact as the actuator is only 2mm high or at best the actuator sits flush with the surface of the case. Some people like recessed up/down watts buttons though.
well, I'm down to the final assembly steps, taking my time. buttons are all glued in, contacts in place and tested with a bat. next step is to glue the DNA into the cradle - and I'm having a hard time making that commitment...
time for a beer, maybe tomorrow. ;-)
time for a beer, maybe tomorrow. ;-)
Just kidding. glued it in - I'm committed now.
oh, and how many of you have cussed out those little square fuses? I hate them with a burning passion. what a pita they are to solder together and then to a wire.
btw, I'm going to have just enough room with that black button I chose. the only modification I made was to dremel off the plastic tabs on both sides to give a little room for wires to get by. I even used the top screws to connect the wires and the lid closes just fine.
now it's time for a beer.
oh, and how many of you have cussed out those little square fuses? I hate them with a burning passion. what a pita they are to solder together and then to a wire.
btw, I'm going to have just enough room with that black button I chose. the only modification I made was to dremel off the plastic tabs on both sides to give a little room for wires to get by. I even used the top screws to connect the wires and the lid closes just fine.
now it's time for a beer.
I'm so frustrated right now. I'm having a hell of a time getting those tiny little fuses soldered to wires and then keeping the wires from coming loose later.
I have these, which are damned small:
MINISMDC260F/16-2 TE Connectivity / Raychem | Mouser
and these which are friggin microscopic:
http://www............com/item/10pcs-Littelfuse-SMD-1206-3A-3-Amp-Fuse/1580292233.html
I have no idea what I'm doing, if I'm even soldering them to the right sides or what. any advice you anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.
I have these, which are damned small:
MINISMDC260F/16-2 TE Connectivity / Raychem | Mouser
and these which are friggin microscopic:
http://www............com/item/10pcs-Littelfuse-SMD-1206-3A-3-Amp-Fuse/1580292233.html
I have no idea what I'm doing, if I'm even soldering them to the right sides or what. any advice you anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Fuses have no polarity, so just stack one on top of the other, apply a dab of flux to the ends, swipe with solder to solder the ends together, do the same for the other end.
With surface mounted fuses, I hold the two together with tweezers while soldering the ends together.
You have to be very careful with these surface mounted pieces as the soldered ends will break off if any kind of stress or torque on them, so if you're having trouble you can mount the fuses to a piece of veroboard which gives protection and security to the ends.
Here's an example of how I do the surface mount fuses if I want to secure to a piece of veroboard...
The fuses need a 1x4 piece of veroboard with the copper removed from the center portion...
I solder the fuses and the wires to the veroboard...
I put shrink tube over the fuses and ends...
With surface mounted fuses, I hold the two together with tweezers while soldering the ends together.
You have to be very careful with these surface mounted pieces as the soldered ends will break off if any kind of stress or torque on them, so if you're having trouble you can mount the fuses to a piece of veroboard which gives protection and security to the ends.
Here's an example of how I do the surface mount fuses if I want to secure to a piece of veroboard...
The fuses need a 1x4 piece of veroboard with the copper removed from the center portion...
I solder the fuses and the wires to the veroboard...
I put shrink tube over the fuses and ends...
Thanks a ton Mamu, I'll give that a shot.
[sigh] I decided to wire it up anyway without the fuses just to see if it's going to work, and it works just fine except.... my down button doesn't work.
the manual actuator on the board works so clearly somewhere along the line I've lost one of my soldered wire connections.
the button is buried behind a bunch of tightly soldered wires, the board and a bunch of epoxy gel... It might be lost forever.
I still have another case - hopefully I can take it all apart, dig out the DNA with a razor knife and start over.
I'm not at all surprised it didn't come out flawlessly, as this was my first attempt at doing anything like this. I just haven't practiced the skill set required for something like this yet.
Thanks again Mamu for all your help and expertise. I'll give it go another day.
[sigh] I decided to wire it up anyway without the fuses just to see if it's going to work, and it works just fine except.... my down button doesn't work.
the manual actuator on the board works so clearly somewhere along the line I've lost one of my soldered wire connections.
the button is buried behind a bunch of tightly soldered wires, the board and a bunch of epoxy gel... It might be lost forever.
I still have another case - hopefully I can take it all apart, dig out the DNA with a razor knife and start over.
I'm not at all surprised it didn't come out flawlessly, as this was my first attempt at doing anything like this. I just haven't practiced the skill set required for something like this yet.
Thanks again Mamu for all your help and expertise. I'll give it go another day.
- Status
Similar threads
