When the K4 floods, simply close the JC and vape it off. Then just open the JC back up and you should be good to go.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Nope. Haven't heard from them.
Not quite. I have a problem with juice going into the air chamber below the build deck. I ordered o-rings to replace #16 for a better seal when the JC is moving up and down.
Ah. Well I've not experienced that myself. Not on my authentic anyway. Just received a Tobeco clone yesterday but have yet to clean it up and build it.
There was a guy in the authentic thread that had the same issue so I think it's a design issue. I found a slightly bigger o-ring but it was still too small. I ordered a couple of sizes from oringsandmore.com so hopefully those will solve the issue. I also have 2 more clones coming.
I a have a KF V4 clone from unknown manufacturer. I purchased it as a preorder on eBay. It's a 1:1 clone with red o-rings.
The leaking issue was present from the very first build and hasn't stopped for a few days until I finally found this thread. A few
people have correctly concluded that the reason for leaking is the o-ring #16 that goes over the squared (inner) part of the air chamber.
I wasn't able to find a thicker o-ring, so I applied one wrap of dental floss under the o-ring and it has fixed the problem. If you're going
to attempt the use the dental floss, apply only one wrap where ends slightly overlap (only few millimeters). Using more floss will cause
the o-ring to bulge out from the grooves when screwed in, which will possible cause more leaking and eventually damage the o-ring.
I hope this helps at least one person
Gene
cornering the market on K4 clones are ya
<jedi mind trick>
These aren't the clones you're looking for <waves hand>
</jedi mind trick>
Actually, I LOVE my KF's and want to love this. I know 1 clone isn't a very good representation of an authentic so I ordered a 2nd one, a Tobeco in Black because I've been reading very good things about the Tobeco version. When the first one came in, I was disappointed that the glass section was broken because that's how I wanted to run it. I got it built and going. I love the new features so I ordered the 3rd clone because of the 15% FC discount and I wanted to try another one.
I'm pretty sure I won't be ordering an authentic though. Being flaky with ni200 is a deal breaker. I'll move my KFL's to ni200 duty and use the 3 v4's for kanthal builds. In reality, after the newness wears off, they'll more than likely collect dust in a month or so unless I can get them to work with ni200 w/o leaking (see above issues why the brass sleeve won't work for me).
I a have a KF V4 clone from unknown manufacturer. I purchased it as a preorder on eBay. It's a 1:1 clone with red o-rings.
The leaking issue was present from the very first build and hasn't stopped for a few days until I finally found this thread. A few
people have correctly concluded that the reason for leaking is the o-ring #16 that goes over the squared (inner) part of the air chamber.
I wasn't able to find a thicker o-ring, so I applied one wrap of dental floss under the o-ring and it has fixed the problem. If you're going
to attempt the use the dental floss, apply only one wrap where ends slightly overlap (only few millimeters). Using more floss will cause
the o-ring to bulge out from the grooves when screwed in, which will possible cause more leaking and eventually damage the o-ring.
I hope this helps at least one person
Gene
Genius!!!
I tried a few different o-rings I had and the one in there now is slightly bigger than the original but still too small. I ordered 9.8mm x 1.9mm and 12.1mm x 1.6mm o-rings to see if those will work. I'll have to try the dental floss hack while I wait for the o-rings.
So, I'm trying to follow the discussion, but I've been up since 3am this morning. Is the problem being talked about is not being able to open and close the juice control without loosening the 510 connector??? That's the problem I'm having with this first Tobeco clone. I cant keep it loose because it causes wild resistance fluctuation. Other than that, she works great. No leaking or flooding and the usual Kayfun flavor.
You mentioned before that you thought the one that came on it was 11 x 1 mm, SM lists 11 x 1.5 mm, what size did come on it?Genius!!!
I tried a few different o-rings I had and the one in there now is slightly bigger than the original but still too small. I ordered 9.8mm x 1.9mm and 12.1mm x 1.6mm o-rings to see if those will work. I'll have to try the dental floss hack while I wait for the o-rings.
I'm not sure if this has been answered or solved yet but the issue is actually the piece of delrin that comes out of the 510 connection when removing the 510 pin. I have 4 different versions of the clone and had that issue with two of them. That delrin piece #2 was shorter then the two that didn't have the issue. That being shorter caused part #9 to screw down so tight it would lock everything together. I swapped out that part #2 with ones from my kayfun 3.1s which had a longer thin part and made sure to firmly push those all the way in till they stuck. After reassembly and making everything tight the juice control was smooth as butter. Hope that helps.
In post #440 I measured #7 on both my authentic and clone and got an 8 mil difference, 10 to 11 mil is what I needed on mine so it may be enough if you thin the ring down.
Seems the RoboTech clone didn't require much removed to let it turn freely
Amod is the one from Codevape that requires 10 to 11 mil more clearance.
Also it appears from the posts here that the one with red o-rings is good to go in this area (not sure if there is more than one manufacturer there though)
View attachment 401753
The one on the left is from the v4's that had the issue and the one on the right is what I replaced it with that solved the issue. You do have to disassemble the entire bottom section before inserting or it will hit against part # 9 and not go in all the way. That gives part number 9 something to.push against to.prevent it.from.clamping everything together when tightened or when the 510 pin is tightened. Screw part # 9 till tight enough that part #5 doesn't have play but still spins then reassemble and tighten the 510 pin up snug.
The one on the left is from the v4's that had the issue and the one on the right is what I replaced it with that solved the issue. You do have to disassemble the entire bottom section before inserting or it will hit against part # 9 and not go in all the way. That gives part number 9 something to.push against to.prevent it.from.clamping everything together when tightened or when the 510 pin is tightened. Screw part # 9 till tight enough that part #5 doesn't have play but still spins then reassemble and tighten the 510 pin up snug.
Last edited:
Did codevape change their supplier? The one I got from them is ijoytech and is actually the better quality of the 4 I have.
Last edited:
Different issues being discussed.
I didn't measure it but the tolerances on the FT version is fairly loose so that might be more the issue than the o-ring being too small.
Did you check th authenticity of the Kanger mine had no odor at all.
I am thinking that with my original KF V4 I am just going to stick to Kanthal. It works so good and people have been having problems with the NI200 with them. I love it the way it is. I am thinking that my Kanger Sub and I will try one KFL If it doesn't work will try a Lemo. I just think this V4 is so good with Kanthal why screw around with it. I washed it and recoiled and wicked last night and it actually tastes better then it did when I first got it. I may purchase one more. My feeling is it is so superior on flavor and reliability with Kanthal why try any other way. Put KGD and Kanthal in it with a 1.5 build and it is so good it is hard to explain. Vapor production is amazing. Oh and also the Nautilus I received my temp control heads yesterday so will try that to. The one thing I think that is forgotton is the DNA40 board is also superior to other DNA's because of the step down you can use it on anything it doesn't have to be NI.
Last edited:
Ok, yikes, after 4 thorough soaks and scrubs, I taste machine oil this morning. I spent hours cleaning the snot out of this yesterday. Do you think boiling in water and vinegar will do it? I did it twice in alcohol and twice in Dawn yesterday. I assume I need to remove all the o rings to boil.
It's certainly worth a shot roxy. I've only heard good things when people boil their equipment to remove oil residue. And yes, remove o-rings prior to boiling. I've also heard 20 minutes ought to do it.
ETA: I would also remove any plastic parts too.
- Status
