If the air adjustment screw is backed out enough it will make contact with the nut that the 510 screw screws into and make the connection.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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If the air adjustment screw is backed out enough it will make contact with the nut that the 510 screw screws into and make the connection.
I received mine from Artemus/custommodcreations, not sure what their shipping is like to Canada. I know FC has it for the US warehouse but it won't be listed until they return from Holiday.
I ordered from them the other day. Shipping to Canada is 7.99. I also used the promo code to get the black version down to 20.99. I think for the extra $20 I will add the stainless one as well. I have ordered the FT B stainless version but Canada Customs has been testing it for me for the last week. They finally released it today so I should have it early next week.
Marc411 I think B is the same version you just received. Please let me know if you have any tips/how your experience is as you use it more.
Any time
Now that I've been vaping on it for a few hours, I think it's my new favorite atomizer. Too bad it won't work with ni200
Here my posts from the Qorax K4 thread (copied and pasted)
1st.
I just finished replacing my spring, I used a piece of telescopic antenna from a long gone remote controlled toy. Choose the appropriate size, cut it off with a tubing cutter about 4.5 mm long and placed it in there. I have about the same gap remaining as BNEAT. Works good but still Nichrome at the moment, I may get around to doing a nickel build here in a bit.
Me, I ain't throwing that spring away, I just paid $32 at Vaperev for 2 #1 kits just to get the springs but good thing 'cause while I have a whopper of an o-ring assortment I have very few that are 1.5 mm CS
2nd (was edit on the 1st ).
Just want to add that I swear it's hitting way harder, I would have had to take voltage readings off the 2 screws on the deck before and after as just resistance unless under load isn't going to tell much. My unloaded resistance stayed the same, it's on a Taifun Eye which only reads it before you hit it.
Wait, I think I posted the resistance yesterday with it open and on my DNA 40, I'll chck that.
OK, it was 1.18Ω now it reads 1.05Ω for whatever that's worth, maybe I got a couple of coils stuck together but I doubt it. LOL
(Next I did a nickel build)
3rd. (this is when I put in a ni200 coil) I'm not sure if what I did was smart or stupid, I don't know, they both start with "s".Anyway I've been asking my self that question all my life and I'm getting pretty old.
Here's what I did. So tempered Ni200 is the way to go I'm to understand but all I have is a bunch of annealed so I turn off the TP and set it to 10 watts, get the mounted glowing right then fired it till red and quinced just the mounted coil in water. I have no idea if it added any body to the coil but it is now operating at a steady 0.11Ω set at 450F and 20 watts.
28 gauge nickel and CC, coil is about 2.5 mm id and 11/12 wraps.
4rd.
OK so I said I would put the spring back in and I did. What a profound difference, no setting or other changes were made. I'm running it at 20 watts 450F and it's a real sizzler with the sleeve but with the spring installed it's like I turned it down to 10 watts and not a bit of that loud sizzle and the TP message starts showing. So I removed the spring and put the sleeve back in and all is back to normal BTW, I never had the TP message show with the sleeve installed and I used it all night at work last night and looked at the screen all the time.
I hope this is of some help.
You bet Hanny, hopefully you'll have it in your hands soon and can throw in your thoughts. I've been vaping it all night and it's been real consistent. I fighting the thought of emptying it and trying Nickel
You bet Hanny, hopefully you'll have it in your hands soon and can throw in your thoughts. I've been vaping it all night and it's been real consistent. I fighting the thought of emptying it and trying Nickel
Why would you have to empty it, just unscrew the body from the tank/chimney??
I think this is going to be a lot of help as we go along, but not sure how. I think this is going to be a big piece of the puzzle one we get further along.
Any idea what that sleeve is made of? Any change in resistance on the nickel build with the stock spring vs the sleeve?
It sounds like the sleeve is kicking it out of TP mode and back over to standard wattage, but you are so thorough in your descriptions that I cannot imagine it would be that. Maybe lower the temp limit and see if you can deliberately get TP to kick in on the sleeve? If it will not kick in at all then the sleeve is doing something that makes it impossible for the DNA 40 to read the temp accurately.
That's right I can do that now
HAHAHHAHA I am going to end up doing that so many times once I get mine! Even though I will be building with kanthal rather than nickel.
Just got in 2 Kayfun v4 1:1 clones from codevape today. I believe they are manufactured by Wotofo A-MOD. They are advertised as being "better than the Tobeco version", so I went ahead and took a chance on them. Braced myself for a leaky, thread stripped, parts-not-fitting nightmare, but I am pleasantly surprised with the quality of these clones. Been vaping with them all day long and no leaking so far. Good flavor and vapor production. Using 80%VG TFA strawberry + cheesecake with no wicking problems. Hopefully the quality holds up over time.
The tanks required a very thorough cleaning and didn't come with any spare screws (just o-rings and a spring). The glass tank section seems pretty fragile compared to other tanks I have. I would prefer more airflow, but it isn't too restrictive for me. Nothing else to really complain about so far.
The tanks required a very thorough cleaning and didn't come with any spare screws (just o-rings and a spring). The glass tank section seems pretty fragile compared to other tanks I have. I would prefer more airflow, but it isn't too restrictive for me. Nothing else to really complain about so far.
The sleeve is nickel plated brass.
It worked perfectly in temp mode, no changes in resistance with spring or with sleeve, the difference between the spring and sleeve would have be measured with voltage under load to see if there's any loss with the spring but there is no doubt a large one, I just haven't measured it with a meter, it hits way harder with the sleeve.
Note: in the first part of the post where I discuss the sleeve I was using regular resistance wire for the coil. Either way there was never a problem with it going in and out of temp mode.
I'll try to give an example of how this can not be detected with an ohm reading, just an example not real numbers of anything.
The spring is able to provide a good solid connection to the parts on each end up to 3 amps, so if you measure resistance on these parts all looks good, you then apply 4 volts with a 2 amp load and measure voltage at the load end and get almost 4 volts, again all is good.
Next repeat, take ohm reading all is good, this time we have the same 4 volt supply but have a 5 amp load and we measure the voltage and get only 3 volts at the load end.
This example is figured with the idea that if the 5 amp load was placed on the 4 volt supply that the supply voltage would only drop to 3.8 volts.
So what happened to the .8 volts, resistance under load, in this case the spring's ability to not conduct more than 3 amps without a loss.
EDIT: I did have a problem with it going into "Temperature Protected" would display on the screen with the spring installed but not going between voltage and Temp. No problems at all when using the sleeve though.
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Where is Artemus/custommodcreations located?
There is no address or phone number on their site.
There is no address or phone number on their site.
Here's what came with the A version on FT:
Take away the wicks and screwdriver and that's what I paid $32 shipped for 2 kits...Vaperev
Alpharetta, GA
Apparently, he's not very good with responding to e-mails but will ship what you ordered. I ordered a black KF v4 from them a few days ago and it's scheduled to ship on Monday.
Ahh, I misunderstood originally regarding the sleeve/spring usage. I had thought you had used both on kanthal and Ni200 builds already.
I understand the numbers you used were hypotheticals and all, but the more I read and think about the actual stock spring the more I wonder about things. Sure SvoeMesto is a quality company using quality parts, but what is the lifetime use expectation of that spring. Theoretically putting voltage through it could influence the lifespan of the spring I would think. Add to that the amount of tension it is under when refilling and I just wonder more if they tested the spring to failure. Kind of in the same way that Evolv rates the built in buttons on their chips for 200,000 actuations and many of the 2 and 3 amp anti-vandal switches are rated for about a million actuations, when used at or below their amp rating.
It likely does not even matter since someone vaping 10ml of liquid a day would only be compressing the spring for filling around 15 times a week/780 times a year. Even rounded up to 1,000 times a year to account for the myriad other reasons a person might close the juice flow off and it still should not impact the life of the spring.
Holy poop, this flow control will be the death of me. It's so darn tight it's near impossible to turn. Every time I try to close it I loosen the plastic tank section.
No issues with the plastic tank.
I'm kinda annoyed that the glass tank broke. The all steel looks cool but I don't think I had the wicking right and was getting some dry hits. I took it apart and re-wicked and the rayon was burnt pretty bad. I miss ni200
I've gotta thank u... Worked like a charm... I think it was only the air hole screw/center pin that was messing me up... Cleaned out the inside like 6 times with a toothpick for a brush and scrubbed and rinsed until I could blow and suck through it without tasting anything...
Did a head to head with same nickel build and juice with my authentic... Spot on flavor and maybe a little more restrictive in airflow...
Thanks again
On a bad note, my glass doesn't fit the metal sandwich... It's too big around... But I use the plastic anyway in my authentic, so no worries
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