Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
- Thread starter KTMRider
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Was there the correctly sized o-ring in the spares bag? 11 x 1.5 mm
The o-ring I was talking about tightens up the resistance when you turn the juice control. There was a spare but it was still too thin. I found another spare o-ring that was slightly wider that sealed a bit better but still not as tight as I'd like but it seems to be working ok now but it's still early.
Hi all, new to the forums.
I recently got the Kayfun V4 clone from codevape. This is my first rebuildable. Other than the massive amount of machine oil, the build is really good. I do have a few problems though. First is the leaking issue mentioned earlier so hopefully a thicker o-ring will fix that.
The second is, as some have mentioned, tightening the base screw #9 causes the liquid control value unable to move. This seems to be a real flaw that I am not sure how to fix. If it is not tight enough you can feel that the whole base is a little too loose. Tightening the 510 pin seems to help, but even that you cannot go to tight. Any thoughts on this?
Third is a connection issue. When I connect the devise to a ohm meter or battery (using istick and ipv2) the resistance changes. I originally thought that it was a coil build issue, but that does not seem to be the case. If I move the kayfun just a little or shake the whole device it jumps around from 1.4 to 2.4. So it seems that something is not making full contact. Thoughts?
I recently got the Kayfun V4 clone from codevape. This is my first rebuildable. Other than the massive amount of machine oil, the build is really good. I do have a few problems though. First is the leaking issue mentioned earlier so hopefully a thicker o-ring will fix that.
The second is, as some have mentioned, tightening the base screw #9 causes the liquid control value unable to move. This seems to be a real flaw that I am not sure how to fix. If it is not tight enough you can feel that the whole base is a little too loose. Tightening the 510 pin seems to help, but even that you cannot go to tight. Any thoughts on this?
Third is a connection issue. When I connect the devise to a ohm meter or battery (using istick and ipv2) the resistance changes. I originally thought that it was a coil build issue, but that does not seem to be the case. If I move the kayfun just a little or shake the whole device it jumps around from 1.4 to 2.4. So it seems that something is not making full contact. Thoughts?
OK, I'm going to post this, I really wanted it to be tried out before posting but here goes. They made an error in machining either part #3 or #5 I'm not sure which but a shim could be installed into the square part of # 3 where #5 contacts , BTW this is the last leg of the ground before the 510 so it must conduct (metal)
I'm also not sure of the thickness but I figure 10 mil is a good place to start, brass shim stock would be my preference but the heavy aluminum foil is easier to come by at least till one determines the thickness required. Keep in mind that screw #9 is to be real tight when properly installed otherwise it will come loose over time.
Need to make sure that 510 screw can't touch the shim as it passes up through.
Here is the PM that I sent:
OK , you will need a postage stamp size piece of aluminum foil, not the regular but the extra thick one. cut the foil the size and shape of that square in the base(#3). Then fold it in half and snip out the hole in the center, doesn't have to be perfect but large enough for the 510 screw to pass through with out touching. unfold it, place it into the square in #3, assemble as in diagram making sure #6 screw is real tight, tight enough to not come loose. If you don't understand ask me.
I'm also not sure of the thickness but I figure 10 mil is a good place to start, brass shim stock would be my preference but the heavy aluminum foil is easier to come by at least till one determines the thickness required. Keep in mind that screw #9 is to be real tight when properly installed otherwise it will come loose over time.
Need to make sure that 510 screw can't touch the shim as it passes up through.
Here is the PM that I sent:
OK , you will need a postage stamp size piece of aluminum foil, not the regular but the extra thick one. cut the foil the size and shape of that square in the base(#3). Then fold it in half and snip out the hole in the center, doesn't have to be perfect but large enough for the 510 screw to pass through with out touching. unfold it, place it into the square in #3, assemble as in diagram making sure #6 screw is real tight, tight enough to not come loose. If you don't understand ask me.
dwcraig,
Thanks for the info. Do you have any issues with tightening the #9 screw and moving the LCV? Also, do you think that will solve my connection issue?
Thanks for the info. Do you have any issues with tightening the #9 screw and moving the LCV? Also, do you think that will solve my connection issue?
I current only have an original, my clones are in transit, one will come Monday from Codevapes and another from Fasttech on Tuesday and another from Fasttech who knows when. Mine(#9) was so tight I had to wrap duct tape around #3 and hold it with pliers. No it spun freely.
Oh and yes it will solve that connection issue as that must be tight for the deck to get a good ground.
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Ok.... Anytime I adjust the airflow the bottom comes completely off. Screw it, I'm done with this thing. [emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35]
Do you mean juice flow? Airflow is just a screw on the bottom of the deck
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Nope, I mean airflow. For whatever reason adjusting the airflow screw is loosening something the number 9 I think it is. I'm just done with it. I'll stick to my lemos. Never had any problems with those.
Man it's such a simple fix and so much better than any of my lemos... Sorry ur having problems
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IDK IMO these clones are like I thought they would be. This is such a complex device they couldn't just throw it together. My original which I go about a month ago and have used daily more than any of my others is still working flawlessly. Great vape just waiting to see how it will work with Nickel. Unless something changes drastically if mine works on Nickel I will probably get another. Maybe My Kanger sub tank I haven't done a build on but the threads are really crunchy when you remove the bottom section will put a little of the stuff I got from Provape and unscrew it and screw it back a few times and then clean it up. I see they have cloned that already. Chinese cloning a Chinese tank. Crazy.I wish Svoe Mesto would come out with a kit to improve the air flow on the KFL.
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For you I guess. When the Kayfun 4 was working it wasn't anything special. I shouldn't have to do some work around.
I did the foil thing, but I don't see how it helps at all. I just tightened the #9 screw again and it seems to be fine, I'll just never adjust the airflow again
So looking at it again with the problems I am having. The tightening of #9 screw causing the LCV to not move is definitely a "shim" issue as dwcraig pointed out. I tried the foil thing and it didn't work. Very difficult to deal in that small of a space. I will probably look for some washers that will fit in there. But when you tighten the #9 screw it should clamp down #3 and #8. But what it is doing is putting too much pressure on #5.
I will post if I can find a good solution.
I will post if I can find a good solution.
Id hate to sound obvious but have you tried not tightening it down tight... Mine doesn't interfere at all
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The trouble is if you don't tighten it down all the way (which is what I was doing before) it gets loose and the contact is inconsistent causing the ohm's to change
My clone from FT is on the loose side. I can really tighten #9 and the ring has some slight play. The complete assembly of A into B is also loose fitting. That's where I think my problem is with leaking juice out of the air holes. I ordered a bunch of o-rings from OringsandMore.com so I hope that fixes the problem. For now, the work-around is to fill it with the JC closed, screw on the top cap, turn it upside down while opening the JC fully and leaving it there.
More testing needed but I think I figured it out, just need to wait for the new o-rings. Unlike my Erlk clones, this one gives me a great vape as long as I don't move the JC from fully closed.
More testing needed but I think I figured it out, just need to wait for the new o-rings. Unlike my Erlk clones, this one gives me a great vape as long as I don't move the JC from fully closed.
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