Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[RickCain]

So looking at it again with the problems I am having. The tightening of #9 screw causing the LCV to not move is definitely a "shim" issue as dwcraig pointed out. I tried the foil thing and it didn't work. Very difficult to deal in that small of a space. I will probably look for some washers that will fit in there. But when you tighten the #9 screw it should clamp down #3 and #8. But what it is doing is putting too much pressure on #5.

I will post if I can find a good solution.

The UC (entire part A) will be "loose" or have a "shim" unit it is connected to the BODY (entire part B). This is normal and happens on the authentic version as well.

You must have part 9 secure and have part 8 in the right position (the bottom is squared) in order for the entire device to work right.

I normally assemble all of the UC, then get the Body ready, place the spring that connects the two and screw it down all the way so the juice control is wide open.

Like I said, the "shim" is normal until the UC and BODY are assembled. If it still shims you are either doing something wrong, missing a piece or have a bad clone.

 

[Jibninjas]

The UC (entire part A) will be "loose" or have a "shim" unit it is connected to the BODY (entire part B). This is normal and happens on the authentic version as well.

You must have part 9 secure and have part 8 in the right position (the bottom is squared) in order for the entire device to work right.

I normally assemble all of the UC, then get the Body ready, place the spring that connects the two and screw it down all the way so the juice control is wide open.

Like I said, the "shim" is normal until the UC and BODY are assembled. If it still shims you are either doing something wrong, missing a piece or have a bad clone.

It is not that the liquid control valve is loose, but that if you tighten the #9 screw down it does not move at all. If it is not tightened all the way down is causes a bad connection. If you look at the way it is designed it is supposed to be tightened down, but still allow for the liquid control valve to be easily moved.

It appears that the square indent is just slightly too deep.

 

[RickCain]

^ That really sucks but it is a clone after-all

What version is it? My Tebecco is working perfectly.

 

[Jibninjas]

^ That really sucks but it is a clone after-all

What version is it? My Tebecco is working perfectly.

You're right, I cannot complain as it was $30, lol. It is the codevape clone.

 

[Heespharm]

Yeah the term 1:1 is really laughable... More like 0.98999999:1

 

[cobaltxblue]

Yeah the term 1:1 is really laughable... More like 0.98999999:1

You know there will be someone who is hugely ...... and demands that they get the other 0.02111111 they were promised.

 

[ricks]

Yikes! Three tanks on GVC and its done.

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That looks nasty!!! Looks like the oil I took out of my old jeep. What does your juice look like?

 

[dwcraig1]

It is not that the liquid control valve is loose, but that if you tighten the #9 screw down it does not move at all. If it is not tightened all the way down is causes a bad connection. If you look at the way it is designed it is supposed to be tightened down, but still allow for the liquid control valve to be easily moved.

It appears that the square indent is just slightly too deep.

I just got up, I work nights, I'm caught up on the thread. If the foil didn't do the trick it's because it's not thick enough, a thicker shim is needed. If it gets to the point where the shim is thicker than the "square is deep you won't be able to get # 8 to stay put (tightened wise) into #3. One needs to keep add shim till the correct thickness is found then get one that thickness and one piece, preferably brass shim stock.
I just(almost) about hope mine from Codevapes has this problem so I can mess around with it.

The post above, the one quoted sums it up quite well.

 

[Heespharm]

I just got up, I work nights, I'm caught up on the thread. If the foil didn't do the trick it's because it's not thick enough, a thicker shim is needed. If it get to the point where the shim is thicker than the "square is deep you won't be able to get # 8 to stay put (tightened wise) into #3. One needs to keep add shim till the correct thickness is found then get one that thickness and one piece, preferably brass shim stock.
I just about hope mine from Codevapes has this problem so I can mess around with it.

Haha what a devoted forum member... Hoping for frustration just so he can help others... Good an ya!

 

[cobaltxblue]

dwcraig1 can I still hope that mine does not have that problem?

..... It looks like mine is not going to deliver until Tuesday now.

 

[dwcraig1]

dwcraig1 can I still hope that mine does not have that problem?

..... It looks like mine is not going to deliver until Tuesday now.

When I get mine and if it has the problem I will determine the correct thickness and post it, I think the amount of clearance needed will be fairly consistent with all the ones made by the same factory. I won't have to use metal to find the correct thickness but will have to use metal on the end "product"
I'd say you have an excellent chance of getting one with the clearance problem but certainly is fixable easy enough.

 

[Raguvian]

Mine is still "preparing for shipment". It's been stuck on that for the past week.

I really hope the Tobeco one that KTMRider linked ships tomorrow.

 

[dwcraig1]

Mine is still "preparing for shipment". It's been stuck on that for the past week.

I really hope the Tobeco one that KTMRider linked ships tomorrow.

It has probably arrived at San Francisco postal customs days ago and they haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

[RickCain]

That looks nasty!!! Looks like the oil I took out of my old jeep. What does your juice look like?

It's gets better each day - this bottle is three month new.

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[RickCain]

It has probably arrived at San Francisco postal customs days ago and they haven't gotten around to it yet.

Oddly enough I had something sitting "preparing for shipment" since the 15th of December and it mysteriously showed up in San Francisco today. Pisses me off because an order placed the day before delivered a week ago.

 

[dwcraig1]

Oddly enough I had something sitting "preparing for shipment" since the 15th of December and it mysteriously showed up in San Francisco today. Pisses me off because an order placed the day before delivered a week ago.

It goes to SF postal customs first then when they release it it goes to regular SF postal, a lot of the time SF ICS doesn't even scan it. sometimes I get no scan from SF or San Diego, it just shows up out for delivery in Imperial Beach.

I'm pretty sure it's "our boys" messing with us, not China postal.

 

[RickCain]

It goes to SF postal customs first then when they release it it goes to regular SF postal, a lot of the time SF ICS doesn't even scan it. sometimes I get no scan from SF or San Diego, it just shows up out for delivery in Imperial Beach.

I'm pretty sure it's "our boys" messing with us, not China postal.

It's an Inax Nano so I figure they wanted to do a couple of builds on it before they send it on its way to me This is the reason I typically prefer DHL for anything overseas as it gets to my door extremely FAST.

 

[Raguvian]

It has probably arrived at San Francisco postal customs days ago and they haven't gotten around to it yet.

I really hope so. It's been 2.5 weeks and I'm getting itchy.

 

[dwcraig1]

I really hope so. It's been 2.5 weeks and I'm getting itchy.

2.5 weeks from placing the order or 2.5 week from acceptance by China Post?
Mine generally take 12 days from acceptance but I've had one come in 4 days and another in 5 days and yet another 2 months.

 

[dravell]

Focal just got the Tobeco KF4 in stock at the US warehouse for $26 (and then theres the 15% off code), only 17 in stock so if you wanted one act quick.
$25.76 (Ship from USA) Kayfun V4 Clone by Tobeco