Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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No dribble here and I always close it and fill it right side up (usually still attached to my Vamo)..
Ya they sure are, i got some too but just put them away till needed, I didn't really look at them except to see they weren't broken till I read yur post.
Thankswill get a set as well
Look for the 10pk. It's a buck more but it also comes in a pelican-like case (obviously not an authentic pelican
). I saw it a day AFTER I ordered the 5pk. 
I also just checked to make sure they were all intact and put them away but decided to look at one and found the edges smooth like butta
. The Tobeco versions are also flamed too. It seems like the Tobeco is still the clone champ and also one of the least expensive.
Now that I have so many mini's, I just take whatever flavor I'm in the mood for at the time. I tend to favor the VS DNA30 lately though.
I don't believe anyone posted this link here yet but if it was here it is again, they have a lot of K4 clone parts.
Kayfun v4 Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com
Kayfun v4 Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com
I got a partially shipped notice on the extra parts portion of my Vapor Tek order, but not the 4S Kit. Weird.
On the above note, my own experience with this device thus far has ultimately left me questioning whether or not it's worth the constant hassle and upgraded maintenance. I don't regret the purchase or anything but yeah....lot more effort going in to this then i'd ideally prefer on my RTA setup as somebody who primarily drips when i'm not out and about.
I'll say this too. If i wasn't a DIY'er and was still paying boutique prices on juice, the fairly obnoxious juice consumption of the V4 (even on 1.5ohm setup) would be a complete deal breaker for me
I'll say this too. If i wasn't a DIY'er and was still paying boutique prices on juice, the fairly obnoxious juice consumption of the V4 (even on 1.5ohm setup) would be a complete deal breaker for me
Hey Rick did you ever get that rayon? I as because the Postal lady gave me a fit about it being like a envelope pillow
Got this huge puffy envelope 2 days ago, Thanks. Looks like I will not have to buy any for a very long time, if at all. Trying it now. I stuffed enough rayon into a 3mm coil so that it can be pulled with some restriction. Not too tight but not loose either. So far its working great. I checked the coil after burning thru 4ml and its not showing any burning at all. Can't wait to see how many refills I can get on one wick. How long do you get out your wicks?
Sounds great, like I said the mail lady scared me that their machinery was planning to eat that envelope puffy like that, glad it made it. As far as longevity some over on the rayon thread are near 100 mls on a single wicking, i change out well before that because I like too. I have pulled a many and thrown away that are still white as a wedding dress after 5 tanks, not of chocolate milk type juice but anything somewhat clear lasts a long long time for me.
Enjoy brother and if you are looking for some tips check out JeremyRs rayon thread
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Got my tobeco. Gotta say, the overall machine beats the fasttech A by a mile. Especially the deck juice holes. Superbly machined. Apart from the slightly rough threads on the juice control, this thing is immaculate
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I'll be there shortly. Love to play with these vaping apparatus.
Cleaned and did a super quick build
Working well so far with Ni200.
I'm happier with this because I can actually unscrew the deck easily. With my fasttech A, i find that my deck is always stuck, and I need to use a drill bit to provide leverage.
Yeaaaap. Tobeco is gold.
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Working well so far with Ni200.
I'm happier with this because I can actually unscrew the deck easily. With my fasttech A, i find that my deck is always stuck, and I need to use a drill bit to provide leverage.
Yeaaaap. Tobeco is gold.
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When you look down at the insulator nut does it have square edges or is it perfectly round?
Look at that nut to see if it's spinning (if round) while you turn your 510 pin. I had one like that and just used a stumpy screwdriver (flat) to stop it from spinning. Once out everything broke down fine. Some suppliers (maybe first release EHPro) used a round nut in the insulator that was a PITA.
Hey sorry for the late ish response. I only partially disassembled the base when cleaning it as I was anxious to just get the thing built, but it should come out just fine. Doubt highly they would just forget that detail. Will let you know when I get to my next re wick/ build. I wasn't saying that the ehpro clone is bad, it did a few things better than the tobeco honestly. My tobeco clone is actually a tobehpro clone to be more specific
I took the juice control and deck out of an ehpro clone and combined it with the rest of the tobeco, aka the 2 things that ehpro did a little nicer IMO. My friend that owns a shop was nice enough to let me swap the parts since he had a couple defect EHpros with big scratches that he was sending back to them. Thus far I have gone thru an entire tank In the hcigar clone with no AFC screw and there has been 0 leaking whatsoever. Also a couple fixes for people that may or may not have come up yet.
1. If your juice control ring feels a little crunchy when turning it simply apply a little e juice to the threads under the deck portion and in the ring on the base that it connects to. It will provide the perfect amount of lubrication and get the thing turning butter smooth.
2. For those getting kind of inaccurate ohm readings off by .1-.2 of what they should be due to the spring with the JC all the way open there is a way to get it more accurate while still keeping the spring in. It's quite simple really, lightly pinch the end of the spring that goes around the airflow pin under the deck. Your goal is to get it to a press fit level of tightness so that it has a really solid connection and won't just fall off when you take the base apart. You want to do this carefully so that you don't destroy the spring in the process but if done properly it ensures a much more stable reading with the JC open. It also allows you to keep the AFC screw totally out unlike the other solution where it makes the connection and therefore must be in restricting your total airflow. You could make the spring work even more effectively if you added a teeny bit of solder to the end of the spring that rests in the base, essentially getting both ends of the spring to have a tight and solid connection. It's the loose wobbly nature of the stock spring set up that leads to the readings jumping around, especially in dna40 temp control. Making the connection solid has alleviated the issue entirely for me as long as you take the reading with the JC fully open as you should.
I just got in 2 EHRros today from sweetvape. They have the updated nuts with the flat sides and everything comes apart as it should. I know I read earlier that someone could not get the little nut out in the base that's in the insulated sleeve (the one the 510 pin screws into). I can confirm that it comes out, its a bit tight in there but it does comes out. They both work great and I would say the overall fit and finish and polish is way better than my red o'ring FT clone. Also my FT clones weeps once and a while from I'm assuming the #16 o-ring. The EHPros came with an extra set of o'rings so I replaced the o'ring in the FT clone and hopefully that stops it.
Yeah the v7 is awesome! My only complaint is how long it is haha. My 350s were dead so I've got an 18650 in it at work right now and people look at me funny when I'm on my break vaping. Looks like those old German potato masher grenades hah..
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