#9 needs to be proper tight.
Keep an eye on your ohm readings - if they start jumping about it's cos #9 has worked loose.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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#9 needs to be proper tight.
Keep an eye on your ohm readings - if they start jumping about it's cos #9 has worked loose.
Garemlin, I ended up with a second EHPro and quickly found out why you can't break your all the way down. On the early runs they epoxied the Insulator (#10) and counter nut into the upper section of the deck. I can say now you are 100% correct, those pieces will not come out unless you use a Dremel or drill. I got mine from Sweet Vapes and they understand the problem and are resolving it for me but I tried for 40 minutes and that insulator will not budge.
I did get the nut off by taking a M3 X 20 screw and coming up through the 510 connection tape it out. That's when I saw the epoxy. I tried everything to push the insulator out, no way!
Can you go back to the guy you bought it from and let him know that you found the problem and get him to exchange it. The counter screw is most likely creating you jump in resistance and you are never going to be able to get at it.
I did get the nut off by taking a M3 X 20 screw and coming up through the 510 connection tape it out. That's when I saw the epoxy. I tried everything to push the insulator out, no way!
Can you go back to the guy you bought it from and let him know that you found the problem and get him to exchange it. The counter screw is most likely creating you jump in resistance and you are never going to be able to get at it.
Oh wow. Glad to know it just wasn't me or a fluke. I am going to get in touch with my seller again. Is there any way to tell without totally disassembling it if it is a revised version or not. Batch number, etc...
Really pisses me off that is two things EHPro effed up on this one.
With that being said I will again withhold final judgment pending a replacement.
Tap'd from my LG G3
You're gonna laugh or lose respect for me, but my 2nd and third tank of this build/wick were back to the miserable wicking (dry hits unless I primed all the time).
***UNCLE!
Sadly I went back to my "old reliable" EHpro Kayfun Lite Plus... It's not all sad though because it's been two weeks and I'm like "ahhh there's that wonderful vape I've been missing so much!"
So far so good with my old coil and a new rewick on the lite plus.
Maybe I'll break the v4's back out another time..
***UNCLE!
Sadly I went back to my "old reliable" EHpro Kayfun Lite Plus... It's not all sad though because it's been two weeks and I'm like "ahhh there's that wonderful vape I've been missing so much!"
So far so good with my old coil and a new rewick on the lite plus.
Maybe I'll break the v4's back out another time..
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Not that I can see other than the insulator not coming out.
And I'm sorry but when you said you could get it to break down I thought what the hell is he doing. Has to be a user issue.
My apologies man!
When I tried it on mine and figured out what was going on you were the first person I thought of which is a little weird.
I was able to get the nut out by using a longer M3 screw and that's when I saw the epoxy. And it's not glue because that insulator is not moving it is solid.
I hope the seller is as stand up as Sweet Vapes, already have a tracking number. Solid Customer Service and Tyler was a true professional on the phone. Nothing but positives from that group!
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Yeah everyone had me second guessing myself wondering what the hell I was doing wrong. LOL
Oh well. I just sent my seller a message. They were really good about getting the top cap issue resolved. Hopefully the same goes for this.
Tap'd from my LG G3
What is the make of your V4?
Here is what currently works for me on my tobeco (though I've not used it today cos am heartily sick of it):
3mm coil. Japanese cotton pads.Wick just touching the deck, half of wick density cut away. I didn't wick with deck chimney in place - plastered the wick to deck with juice and then put the chimney on.
I'm thinking of drilling the juice flow holes out, though that will be a tad dangerous since I only have water pump pliers to hold the deck.
Don't worry - you're not alone
How does a 3mm do over a 2.5mm on the Kv4. I have always run 2.4mm or 2.5mm on my Kayfuns and Lemos.What is the make of your V4?
Here is what currently works for me on my tobeco (though I've not used it today cos am heartily sick of it):
3mm coil. Japanese cotton pads.Wick just touching the deck, half of wick density cut away. I didn't wick with deck chimney in place - plastered the wick to deck with juice and then put the chimney on.
I'm thinking of drilling the juice flow holes out, though that will be a tad dangerous since I only have water pump pliers to hold the deck.
Don't worry - you're not alone
Tap'd from my LG G3
Idk about the 4 (mines still in transit, ugh) but I recently switched to 3mm in my Kayfun lite+s and it wicks so much better for me it's unreal! I can chain vape the hell out of it and it's always saturated with a 1ohm build. I trim the tails so only half (nearest the center deck) are barely touching the juice well. I find less touching allows more juice to pool up. I never have flooding issues with any Kayfuns... Only wicking probs.
There's pics of my builds in previous pages on here somewhere - haha. I've tried sooo many now. The group was very helpful, but I've now given up for the time being. Also thought about drilling out the juice holes here too.What is the make of your V4?
Here is what currently works for me on my tobeco (though I've not used it today cos am heartily sick of it):
3mm coil. Japanese cotton pads.Wick just touching the deck, half of wick density cut away. I didn't wick with deck chimney in place - plastered the wick to deck with juice and then put the chimney on.
I'm thinking of drilling the juice flow holes out, though that will be a tad dangerous since I only have water pump pliers to hold the deck.
Don't worry - you're not alone
For the record, I did try 3 mm, 2 mm, 2.4 mm or 3/32" (my go-to size) and all different wick densities and lengths. Mostly 28g and one build with 26g.
Its not an exaggeration that I've done like 16 or so different combos on it. Haha. And the machining oil was awful the dirt) first 2-3 tanks also.
Not knocking it in general, just upset I can't get it to work. The beautiful part though was the look, the easy filling and the Tobeco never leaking on me. I don't think it leaked once.
***On another note I've sucked down a half tank of glorious vaping with my lite+ and I'm f#*@ing loving it!
I'd've never got my tobeco clean without an ultrasonic cleaner.
Please report back if you drill the holes out.
For those that use the JC at full open and full closed only, you can lose the spring:
If you remove the spring and fully open the JC and get a closed circuit IE reading the resistance of your coil then no mod necessary just remove the spring. However if you get an open circuit, a simple mod will allow you to get rid of the spring. Take a 3mm ID washer, use a pair of vice grips to hold the washer and file off 4 sides to match the square nut #11 in the 510 bottom #3. Place the filed washer under the nut. A 2.5mm washer may fit without filing. I don't know all I had was 2 and 3mm and 2mm was too small for the center post screw #1. This will raise the nut ever so slightly so at full open JC, the nut #11 makes solid contact with the air stem center post #14.
It defeats the purpose of JC between open and closed but other than full open to vape and full close to fill, I found it useless anyways.
For those running 100% VG and getting juice flow problems, I find loosening the drip tip adapter #38 (if it has two sides filed off) a few turns and screwing it back down after about 3s removes the vacuum in the tank and the juice flows just fine and you can chain vape until you let it sit and the juice boils off the wick. Then open #38 again and close it and chain vape again.
Using this method I am able to sustain 18W in temperature protect mode on a DNA40 with 10 turns of 28 gauge Ni200 ~5mm coil slightly spaced. OC just touching deck. As soon as I figure out how big of holes, I too plan on drilling out the deck juice holes.
HTH
If you remove the spring and fully open the JC and get a closed circuit IE reading the resistance of your coil then no mod necessary just remove the spring. However if you get an open circuit, a simple mod will allow you to get rid of the spring. Take a 3mm ID washer, use a pair of vice grips to hold the washer and file off 4 sides to match the square nut #11 in the 510 bottom #3. Place the filed washer under the nut. A 2.5mm washer may fit without filing. I don't know all I had was 2 and 3mm and 2mm was too small for the center post screw #1. This will raise the nut ever so slightly so at full open JC, the nut #11 makes solid contact with the air stem center post #14.
It defeats the purpose of JC between open and closed but other than full open to vape and full close to fill, I found it useless anyways.
For those running 100% VG and getting juice flow problems, I find loosening the drip tip adapter #38 (if it has two sides filed off) a few turns and screwing it back down after about 3s removes the vacuum in the tank and the juice flows just fine and you can chain vape until you let it sit and the juice boils off the wick. Then open #38 again and close it and chain vape again.
Using this method I am able to sustain 18W in temperature protect mode on a DNA40 with 10 turns of 28 gauge Ni200 ~5mm coil slightly spaced. OC just touching deck. As soon as I figure out how big of holes, I too plan on drilling out the deck juice holes.
HTH
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Viton is a branded name for Buna, both are nitrile.
IMO, the same
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Nice, I will have to try that. I don't really care for the spring. Seems easier than other methods I've seen.
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I'm surprised the 12's were too big for the RoboTech, I've put them in five other clones and they seem to fit perfectly, just wanted to comment on that.today I replaced #16 o-ring on my robottech K4 with a buna70 11x1.5mm and, sofar so good
Well the 3/32" coil is definitely performing better (and taking even more juice now) but a problem has returned I had when I first got the KF4.. The vape is starting to get too hot to the point I've got blisters on the inside of my lips now. This was happening the first week or so I had it. I literally had a row of white blisters lining my upper lip and the vape burns!! I'm still at 12w as usual, but this just came back today with the new coil. It wasn't this bad last night when I first recoiled it!
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