Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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dwcraig1

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So what do you guys think about cleaning the bottom most part #1-11 section... necessary or just added o-ring wear?

Are there any specific o-rings that need lubing before first assembly... possibly #16? That ones gotta take a lot of wear.

16 and 18 take the most action, juice should do. Not comfortable with disassembling 1 - 11 just leave together but soap and rinse good.

But #8 got a lot of holes that need looked at so look at it, poke the holes.
 

KTMRider

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So what do you guys think about cleaning the bottom most part #1-11 section... necessary or just added o-ring wear?

Are there any specific o-rings that need lubing before first assembly... possibly #16? That ones gotta take a lot of wear.

For initial cleaning or maintenance?

It should be broken down for initial cleaning but you can just rinse it for maintenance. I use really hot tap water so it heats up the metal and dries faster.
 

snow blind

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16 and 18 take the most action, juice should do. Not comfortable with disassembling 1 - 11 just leave together but soap and rinse good.

But #8 got a lot of holes that need looked at so look at it, poke the holes.

For initial cleaning or maintenance?

It should be broken down for initial cleaning but you can just rinse it for maintenance. I use really hot tap water so it heats up the metal and dries faster.

I see what you guys mean... i'll prob break it all down for an initial cleaning tonight and then rinse for maintenance.

I thought i heard something about the juice control being closed (or was it open... but that doesn't make sense) when breaking it down causing the "bell" or another part to stick?
 
Sorry to ask this as I'm sure it's been covered several times but this thread is 235 pages and... yeah.

I'm looking to upgrade from my Nautilus Mini to a Kayfun v4 clone. I like the way the black Tobeco clone looks (using a black iStick) but the reviews I see on sites selling it seem a bit mixed. Some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. I'm just looking for the best clone since this will be my first time using a rebuildable and just want it to work well since it will be a learning experience.
 

ThunderDan

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Sorry to ask this as I'm sure it's been covered several times but this thread is 235 pages and... yeah.

I'm looking to upgrade from my Nautilus Mini to a Kayfun v4 clone. I like the way the black Tobeco clone looks (using a black iStick) but the reviews I see on sites selling it seem a bit mixed. Some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. I'm just looking for the best clone since this will be my first time using a rebuildable and just want it to work well since it will be a learning experience.

I think the tobecos are good. I like my SS one, others here have the black one, and have posted they like it. The tobeco is the better of the two clones I have purchased, and I have not had one issue with it thus far.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

Garemlin

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Garemlin, I ended up with a second EHPro and quickly found out why you can't break your all the way down. On the early runs they epoxied the Insulator (#10) and counter nut into the upper section of the deck. I can say now you are 100% correct, those pieces will not come out unless you use a Dremel or drill. I got mine from Sweet Vapes and they understand the problem and are resolving it for me but I tried for 40 minutes and that insulator will not budge.

I did get the nut off by taking a M3 X 20 screw and coming up through the 510 connection tape it out. That's when I saw the epoxy. I tried everything to push the insulator out, no way!

Can you go back to the guy you bought it from and let him know that you found the problem and get him to exchange it. The counter screw is most likely creating you jump in resistance and you are never going to be able to get at it.

OK I have a little update. I have been in contact with my seller again. They confirmed that the newest shipments do have the base that will disassemble. They are sending me out the new base and a pre-paid label to send mine back. Hopefully this will do the trick.
 

Marc411

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OK I have a little update. I have been in contact with my seller again. They confirmed that the newest shipments do have the base that will disassemble. They are sending me out the new base and a pre-paid label to send mine back. Hopefully this will do the trick.

Excellent, I think you're going to be a lot happier now. You'll finally get to see that counter screw I was talking about :)

Sounds like a rebuttal seller.
 

Garemlin

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Excellent, I think you're going to be a lot happier now. You'll finally get to see that counter screw I was talking about :)

Sounds like a rebuttal seller.

Very much so. This is an ebay seller. I have bought from them in the past. But they have been uber helpful. First with getting me the corrected top cap and now this. I can't even use mine right now because of the leaking from the 510 pin. I am gonna pick up some of the #16 o-rings.
 

Garemlin

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Feh. Just noticed a few hours ago at work that my Tobeco is leaking through the 510 connection. And into the 510 on my SX Mini. Then I checked the iStick 30w and saw a nice droplet of juice in its 510. This was only my 4th tank with the V4 and I was really enjoying it. I don't think it was leaking before tonight but I can't say for sure. Not too happy right now. I'm glad I didn't order anymore, at least for now. Not sure what could be causing it. I think my wicking is fine, no dry hits or gurgling or anything like that. Chain vaped it and still no hiccups. I have the AFC screw still in, though it's backed out a good bit.

Garemlin, did you ever figure out a solution for your 510 leak?


No not yet. But I do have a new base on the way from my seller. Not that I think that could have anything to do with it. I am gonna go ahead and replace #16 o-ring.

Just to confirm. The #16 is an 11mm i.d. x 1.5 cs correct???
 

ThunderDan

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No not yet. But I do have a new base on the way from my seller. Not that I think that could have anything to do with it. I am gonna go ahead and replace #16 o-ring.

Just to confirm. The #16 is an 11mm i.d. x 1.5 cs correct???

By spec it is 11 x 1.5, correct. Some have found a 12 x 1.5 to work better. I used an 11 x 1.5 on my leaky one from codevape and its been good since.

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Garemlin

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By spec it is 11 x 1.5, correct. Some have found a 12 x 1.5 to work better. I used an 11 x 1.5 on my leaky one from codevape and its been good since.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Where is the best place to pick these up?? I checked the o-ring store but really don't want to pay $5 shipping for 10 o-rings.
 

ThunderDan

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Where is the best place to pick these up?? I checked the o-ring store but really don't want to pay $5 shipping for 10 o-rings.

I got mine from them, ordered a whole bunch of all different sizes for the kf4 and my other RDAs to make it worth the $5 shipping.

Maybe try http://www.oringsandmore.com/ not sure what their shipping rates are.

I know fasttech carries orings too, they have 50 packs for a couple bucks if you feel like waiting a couple weeks.

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doofy666

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Sorry to ask this as I'm sure it's been covered several times but this thread is 235 pages and... yeah.

I'm looking to upgrade from my Nautilus Mini to a Kayfun v4 clone. I like the way the black Tobeco clone looks (using a black iStick) but the reviews I see on sites selling it seem a bit mixed. Some seem to love it and some seem to hate it. I'm just looking for the best clone since this will be my first time using a rebuildable and just want it to work well since it will be a learning experience.

I wouldn't recommend a K4 clone to a newbie, based on my experience as a newbie of owning one and my experience of reading this thread, some of it twice.

Some clones have problems which will affect a newbie. As a newbie you need something to work straight out the box so you know that any problems you encounter are down to lack of experience, poor coil building, poor wicking (usually poor wicking).

What you don't need are these issues complicated by build issues, be it faulty o rings, blocked juice channels, malfunctioning juice control. You might not mind breaking this down http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf and running it through an ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour to clean the foul taste of machine oil since this is not a build issue. Seized parts also don't conflict with newbie issues.

I struggled a lot with my Tobeco for 4 days until my authentic arrived and I realised my problems were Tobeco issues, not newbie issues.

The K4 is attractive to me and other newbies partly cos of ease of access to the build deck. My experience with the Tobeco for the few days before my authentic arrived were wholly negative. I thought the problem was entirely mine. Now I know I just bought a rubbish Tobeco and am trying to fix it.

I'd recommend the K4 but it's a bit expensive, and I'd be surprised if they didn't release a new build in 6 months or so to address a few of the issues it has. But it works out of the box, has ease of access to build deck, easy filling, good sized build deck.

But I wouldn't recommend a clone to anyone without a few riders. Buying a clone K4 is a lottery. Sure, it's a lottery with a good chance of winning but if you lose the lottery, you need a high level of basic skill and/or the accumulated knowledge of this thread to help you win it back.

Many/most clones are excellent but I wouldn't recommend you buy one. Buy an authentic or buy a Lemo. You can get a black Lemo.
 
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Hm, I'll think about the Lemo. I can't really afford the authentic v4. I just really like the look of the v4 (although it's gonna look silly as hell on my iStick) and I hear nothing beats it for flavor (which is what I want). I've watched videos and I know how it works, but like you said I might get frustrated not knowing if an issue is a newbie error or a legitimate problem with the clone.

I'll always have my Nautilus Mini as a back up if something goes wrong... I just want something better, heh.
 

doofy666

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Very much so. This is an ebay seller. I have bought from them in the past. But they have been uber helpful. First with getting me the corrected top cap and now this. I can't even use mine right now because of the leaking from the 510 pin. I am gonna pick up some of the #16 o-rings.

You've done well with your seller and he's done well by you. I'm impressed by the pair of you. :toast:
 

KTMRider

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I got mine from them, ordered a whole bunch of all different sizes for the kf4 and my other RDAs to make it worth the $5 shipping.

Maybe try O-rings not sure what their shipping rates are.

I know fasttech carries orings too, they have 50 packs for a couple bucks if you feel like waiting a couple weeks.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I've made 2 purchases from O-rings and more and have been pleased both times. First order took a week but 2nd took 4 days. Shipping for 3 packages of o-rings (50 ea) was less than $3.

I would NOT order those o-rings form Fasttech. They looked un-even and wouldn't trust them.

Hm, I'll think about the Lemo. I can't really afford the authentic v4. I just really like the look of the v4 (although it's gonna look silly as hell on my iStick) and I hear nothing beats it for flavor (which is what I want). I've watched videos and I know how it works, but like you said I might get frustrated not knowing if an issue is a newbie error or a legitimate problem with the clone.

I'll always have my Nautilus Mini as a back up if something goes wrong... I just want something better, heh.

The KF v4 and Lemo have the same learning curve so get the one you want. The Lemo has better air flow (more airy) than the KF v4. If you have any issues, post up here (or if you get the Lemo, on the big Lemo thread) and I'm sure someone will be able to help you work thru it.



Caught up? :D
 
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