I received the one from Vapor tek only. Still waiting on the ones from Gear Best.
Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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I received the one from Vapor tek only. Still waiting on the ones from Gear Best.
You can fix the Tobeco by lightly sanding down (7). I had to do that to both my FT and FC versions.
just took the froginfog clone with a 12x1.5 in the #16 spot to the range. No leaks!
Did a twisted ni200 build after torching. Used both screws as recommended. Seems to be working good so far. Had one instance where it kept getting to the temperature threshold and would only fire at like 2 watts. I removed the tank section and put it back on with no adjustments and it satisfied the device
Yep, and I've had no resistance fluctuations since I started. The deck on the K4 is either closed for filling or open for vaping. When using them with the TC I always take a peek to ensure I have good contact on the deck. They vape well in TC.
Here's a couple of posts I made back at the beginning of January about using TP with the spring and with the sleeve. While it appears that the resistance of the spring is stable it is not, the screen only shows the un-fired resistance but the board sees it during firing and makes some pretty drastic changes in voltage.
This was done with an original K4
1st. "OK so I said I would put the spring back in and I did. What a profound difference, no setting or other changes were made. I'm running it at 20 watts 450F and it's a real sizzler with the sleeve but with the spring installed it's like I turned it down to 10 watts and not a bit of that loud sizzle and the TP message starts showing. So I removed the spring and put the sleeve back in and all is back to normal BTW, I never had the TP message show with the sleeve installed and I used it all night at work last night and looked at the screen all the time."
2nd. "So if anyone is interested in the voltage drop numbers taken from with the spring and with the sleeve here they are, as well as a picture of my crude little sleeve next to the spring.
Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
They are:
With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts."
The voltage reading were taken off the screws on the deck during firing a 0.11Ω ni200 coil.
My suggestion is try it with something other than the spring and see the difference for yourself before making any conclusion.
The part I can not show is the voltage that the board is outputting to the 510 ( my inline tester can't handle it) but while the voltage appears lower on the deck with the spring installed I'm sure it's considerably higher at the 510, considerably higher than with the sleeve installed.
Just what does this mean? Your temp setting is skewed with the spring, it can work but temp is going to be way off from the setting.
This was done with an original K4
1st. "OK so I said I would put the spring back in and I did. What a profound difference, no setting or other changes were made. I'm running it at 20 watts 450F and it's a real sizzler with the sleeve but with the spring installed it's like I turned it down to 10 watts and not a bit of that loud sizzle and the TP message starts showing. So I removed the spring and put the sleeve back in and all is back to normal BTW, I never had the TP message show with the sleeve installed and I used it all night at work last night and looked at the screen all the time."
2nd. "So if anyone is interested in the voltage drop numbers taken from with the spring and with the sleeve here they are, as well as a picture of my crude little sleeve next to the spring.
Here is my voltage numbers measured off the screws that secure the coil with the spring installed and with the spring removed and the sleeve installed.
This was 2 second "hits" repeated numerous times adding a drop of juice to the coil when switching from spring to sleeve. I thought it hit way harder with the sleeve installed and these voltage numbers confirm it.
They are:
With the spring it ramps up to 1.54 volts and quickly settles to .80 volts.
With the sleeve it ramps up to 1.62 volts and quickly settles to 1.41 volts."
The voltage reading were taken off the screws on the deck during firing a 0.11Ω ni200 coil.
My suggestion is try it with something other than the spring and see the difference for yourself before making any conclusion.
The part I can not show is the voltage that the board is outputting to the 510 ( my inline tester can't handle it) but while the voltage appears lower on the deck with the spring installed I'm sure it's considerably higher at the 510, considerably higher than with the sleeve installed.
Just what does this mean? Your temp setting is skewed with the spring, it can work but temp is going to be way off from the setting.
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I would love to find some sort of nickel tiger coil setup like I normally use. Going back to regular twisted builds is rough.
I'll have to find something to use other than the stock spring
I'll have to find something to use other than the stock spring
That's how I do it too... Both screws in a Z pattern makes building on this so great!
So, with all the Tobecos we've been buying, is there accumulated wisdom on how durable the black (or blue) finish is? The matte?
I'd like a different color for my second one, but plain old SS is nice and is gonna stay that way. Are the black ones anodized or what?
It's a happy juice-hog on a Defender
I'm a flavor freak. I love it the way it is, running with the airflow half-way to make a high wind velocity venturi. I wonder if the people who are running these super hot aren't looking for cloud-chasing in what is a flavor-optimized tank RBA. The spring is just one area. The "overdesigned" 41 parts, the insulator, the air path, it all says "this is a specialized flavor machine, not a cloud-chaser's competition device".
I'd like a different color for my second one, but plain old SS is nice and is gonna stay that way. Are the black ones anodized or what?
It's a happy juice-hog on a Defender
I'm a flavor freak. I love it the way it is, running with the airflow half-way to make a high wind velocity venturi. I wonder if the people who are running these super hot aren't looking for cloud-chasing in what is a flavor-optimized tank RBA. The spring is just one area. The "overdesigned" 41 parts, the insulator, the air path, it all says "this is a specialized flavor machine, not a cloud-chaser's competition device".
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You probably have the machining error that affects some clones. #8 is seating incorrectly in #3. The fix is to put a shim of approx 10thou inch into the square indent of #3, and maybe shave off a bit of #7.
Parts diagram: http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf
I think one of the joys of this atty is that it can produce great flavor, as well as decent clouds! And is pretty happy to be tuned for either situation. Very versatile.
As to the finish of the black Tobecco, mine appears anodized and is holding up very well for the few weeks I've owned it.
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
So, with all the Tobecos we've been buying, is there accumulated wisdom on how durable the black (or blue) finish is? The matte?
I'd like a different color for my second one, but plain old SS is nice and is gonna stay that way. Are the black ones anodized or what?
It's a happy juice-hog on a Defender
View attachment 410147
I'm a flavor freak. I love it the way it is, running with the airflow half-way to make a high wind velocity venturi. I wonder if the people who are running these super hot aren't looking for cloud-chasing in what is a flavor-optimized tank RBA. The spring is just one area. The "overdesigned" 41 parts, the insulator, the air path, it all says "this is a specialized flavor machine, not a cloud-chaser's competition device".
I have the Black EHPro and once they took care of the couple design issues they had this is one of the best K4's I own. The JC is always smooth. I picked mine up from Sweet Vapes and their CS has been solid. I got an older (first release) model and they resolved all my issues real quick. If you get one from them just put n the comments that you would like one of the newly release models that don't require any repair kits.
For the folks that are modifying parts here's a source for anything you need to tighten up your K4. I have the Fasttech, Code Vape, Tobeco and EHPro. The one's that didn't have a smooth JC and the 510 needed to be adjusted I found that 3 & 7 were out of spec. I picked up several from here and replaced them and now the JC travels perfectly. They really have everything you need and the shipping is pretty quick.
Their insulator, counter nut and counter screw are also made very, very close to the authentic spec. For a little over a buck these will also make your JC travel much nicer, for me it's been a kit when the JC binds.
Kayfun v4 Replacement Parts
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Well the finished is not anodized, that's reserved for aluminium, it closer to rifle bluing and electro plating, an extreme chemical bath. It's pretty tough.
It's called PVD
It's called PVD
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I agree. I put a 3mm washer under my 510 square nut and removed the spring. Also modded the air stem to flow more air.
There are quite a few good ways to do it, most won't realize till they do it that it makes a big difference.
Has anyone seen that KayfunMods is producing a special airflow #14 part for springless operation? Sounds pretty cool!
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