Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

[Light Seeker]

Guess I'm really hard on my mods... Have broken both glass rings and 1 plastic on my two kf4s.

While waiting for my glass order to arrive from China, been sporting the metal band. Gotta say, really like the look, it's grown on me, and makes it nearly indestructible to my frequent dropsies & abuse.

Have it on a 4nine now in 18350 mode, a true stealth vape. Hoping they come out with a nano kit, the kf4 is larger than the mod!

 

[350ZMO]

There are quite a few good ways to do it, most won't realize till they do it that it makes a big difference.

I agree. After dozens of builds on various attys since the DNA-40 was released, it's not just the V4 spring. I don't like the binding hole screw posts on other attys either. They always cut the wire or loosen up. It seems everybody has to drill past the through hole. Rounding the tip of the screws help with the cutting but eventually they loosen up. I really wish manufacturers would stop the boring at the bottom of the through hole. I either put a shank in the hole or go for under the screw heads. Fogger V6 was erratic at first. I put small shanks of SS utility wire in the holes so the screw would bottom out at the bottom of the through hole. Not a problem since. Lemo was driving me nuts yesterday. I put 1.6mm washers under the screw heads and now it is solid. But the mods 510 wasn't. Flakey 510 connections equate to the same, especially my spring loaded ones. This morning it read .26 and after cleaning the 510 it read .22. Now all my mods after cleaning their 510s read .22. Instead of .32, .26 etc, They have to be maintained ultra clean with Ni200. I clean them with alcohol and q-tips then rub them with some buffing compound. Hint - you can chuck up a q-tip in a cordless drill and use vodka and baking soda. Now .04 don't sound like much to most folks but trust me the flavor is completely different. Ni200, is just so low resistance. A typical dual coil 4-5mm 8-10 wrap 28 gauge build for me is .07 to .1 ohms. So a .01 ohm change from a screw, post or 510 is a big deal in taste. And a static offset can be adjusted for, but when they are changing by .01, that is a different deal altogether.

 

[Monotremata]

I think one of the joys of this atty is that it can produce great flavor, as well as decent clouds! And is pretty happy to be tuned for either situation. Very versatile.

As to the finish of the black Tobecco, mine appears anodized and is holding up very well for the few weeks I've owned it.


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Amen! I finally had my KFLs to the point where it was pretty satisfying flavor and cloud wise, but now after bumping up to a larger 3/32" coil and adding a couple more strands of cotton yarn to the KF4, I dont think Ill use them again unless one of these craps out on me.. Stepping up the coil made a world of difference from 5/64" to 3/32". The flavor of my 'hubba bubba bubblegum' DIY juices is off the hook, and damn if this thing doesnt fog up my car when Im driving now!! To be honest, it rivals my Magma now. Planning on getting a few spare o-ring sets and I think Im DONE as far as tanks go.. About the only thing they need to fix with the KF4 is how much juice it goes through (this REALLY went up when I changed coils) but with the flavor and vapor it puts out, I bet its just the trade off you deal with.. At least Im not paying $10-15 for 15ml of someone elses juice now so its a non issue for me..

 

[bsidb]

......

 

[Steamer861]

I'm going to agree with every thing you said To be honest the larger coil and bigger wick works on the old KF's to, I have known this a long time now. All though the V4 produces plenty more vapour, probably why it use more juice
I have always said a well built KF has as good flavour as any thing out there, & the V4 is the best KF

Amen! I finally had my KFLs to the point where it was pretty satisfying flavor and cloud wise, but now after bumping up to a larger 3/32" coil and adding a couple more strands of cotton yarn to the KF4, I dont think Ill use them again unless one of these craps out on me.. Stepping up the coil made a world of difference from 5/64" to 3/32". The flavor of my 'hubba bubba bubblegum' DIY juices is off the hook, and damn if this thing doesnt fog up my car when Im driving now!! To be honest, it rivals my Magma now. Planning on getting a few spare o-ring sets and I think Im DONE as far as tanks go.. About the only thing they need to fix with the KF4 is how much juice it goes through (this REALLY went up when I changed coils) but with the flavor and vapor it puts out, I bet its just the trade off you deal with.. At least Im not paying $10-15 for 15ml of someone elses juice now so its a non issue for me..

 

[TheKiwi]

I agree. I put a 3mm washer under my 510 square nut and removed the spring. Also modded the air stem to flow more air.

Any chance you have an idea of the thickness of the washer?

I'm also assuming that the 3mm refers to the inner diameter?


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[350ZMO]

Any chance you have an idea of the thickness of the washer?

I'm also assuming that the 3mm refers to the inner diameter?


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Yes Kiwi 3mm id. As far as the thickness I haven't mic'd it but typically they are .5mm



Just lock in vice grips and file sides to match nuts. I don't have any 2.5mm washers but they may work without filing.

 

[ricks]

Yes Kiwi 3mm id. As far as the thickness I haven't mic'd it but typically they are .5mm

View attachment 410264

Just lock in vice grips and file sides to match nuts. I don't have any 2.5mm washers but they may work without filing.

What does this washer do? Curious?

 

[TheKiwi]

What does this washer do? Curious?

Just to provide a better conduction path from the 510 to the positive block. I honestly don't think it'll make much of a diff if you're just using kanthal with a regulated mod, but it would be handy for a mech or nickel builds


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[doofy666]

I have the Black EHPro and once they took care of the couple design issues they had this is one of the best K4's I own. The JC is always smooth. I picked mine up from Sweet Vapes and their CS has been solid. I got an older (first release) model and they resolved all my issues real quick. If you get one from them just put n the comments that you would like one of the newly release models that don't require any repair kits.

For the folks that are modifying parts here's a source for anything you need to tighten up your K4. I have the Fasttech, Code Vape, Tobeco and EHPro. The one's that didn't have a smooth JC and the 510 needed to be adjusted I found that 3 & 7 were out of spec. I picked up several from here and replaced them and now the JC travels perfectly. They really have everything you need and the shipping is pretty quick.

Their insulator, counter nut and counter screw are also made very, very close to the authentic spec. For a little over a buck these will also make your JC travel much nicer, for me it's been a kit when the JC binds.

Kayfun v4 Replacement Parts

That's good to know thx.

 

[KTMRider]

What does this washer do? Curious?

It raises (11) so it makes solid contact to (14) so you don't need the spring. It makes a more reliable contact so you don't have fluctuations with Ni200.

 

[b.m.]

I've tried searching this thread,but it's so long i cant find what i'm looking for.I got the stainless Tobeco a while back,and it works great,so i decided to get the black version and i am having issues with it.I have cleaned it and ran a paper clip through every hole,but this thing will not feed the juice.I have it wicked exactly like my stainless one,the stainless i get alot of bubbles when opening the juice control,but the black one i get no bubbles.I saturated the wick,and get good hits for a few pulls,but then it goes dry,pull the base out and the wick is bone dry.This is driving me nuts haha,the stainless works perfectly,and i want the black one to work the same as it should,but i dont have an idea of what could cause it.

 

[doofy666]

I've tried searching this thread,but it's so long i cant find what i'm looking for.I got the stainless Tobeco a while back,and it works great,so i decided to get the black version and i am having issues with it.I have cleaned it and ran a paper clip through every hole,but this thing will not feed the juice.I have it wicked exactly like my stainless one,the stainless i get alot of bubbles when opening the juice control,but the black one i get no bubbles.I saturated the wick,and get good hits for a few pulls,but then it goes dry,pull the base out and the wick is bone dry.This is driving me nuts haha,the stainless works perfectly,and i want the black one to work the same as it should,but i dont have an idea of what could cause it.

There have been a few people posting here about dry hits. My authentic wicks very differently from my Tobeco, to such an extent I can't treat it as the same atty.

Have you visualy checked the bottom of the juice channels for burrs?

How many turns does your juice control do from lock to lock? It should be about 2 and a quarter. Maybe it's not opening properly - there are quite a few clones with problematic JC.

My Tobeco seems to be wicking better recently. I put this down to more coil and less wick.
Coil is 28ga, 3mm ID, 8 wraps. Wick is cotton labo pads, trimmed to just touch the deck and then some trimming at the bottom of the wick. Only replacing chimney section when wick is juiced and precisely placed. I've given up trying to wick with the chimney in place, which I do all the time with my authentic.

 

[b.m.]

I looked at the channels the best i could,it's really tight trying to see them,but i didn't see anything.The first time i ran the paper clip through the holes for the channels,i felt a small bit of resistance so i think there was maybe a small burr,but now it runs right through.My jc will turn about 2 3/4 turns from lock to lock.Like you,i place my wick with the chimney off,i saturate it and get it placed before putting the chimney on,and watch to make sure it doesnt move once the chimney is put on.I'll play around with the wick some more,but this thing is driving me crazy haha.I wouldn't think a different color would be different when it's from the same maker,but something is definitely giving me a time.My stainless works perfectly every time,so this has me baffled.If i cover all the air holes and take a primer draw,i get alot of bubbles,but it still wont wick on it's own after that.

 

[KTMRider]

I looked at the channels the best i could,it's really tight trying to see them,but i didn't see anything.The first time i ran the paper clip through the holes for the channels,i felt a small bit of resistance so i think there was maybe a small burr,but now it runs right through.My jc will turn about 2 3/4 turns from lock to lock.Like you,i place my wick with the chimney off,i saturate it and get it placed before putting the chimney on,and watch to make sure it doesnt move once the chimney is put on.I'll play around with the wick some more,but this thing is driving me crazy haha.I wouldn't think a different color would be different when it's from the same maker,but something is definitely giving me a time.My stainless works perfectly every time,so this has me baffled.If i cover all the air holes and take a primer draw,i get alot of bubbles,but it still wont wick on it's own after that.

What type of juice are you using? Is it the same as in your Silver Tobeco? Maybe try trimming your wick just a bit more?

 

[b.m.]

What type of juice are you using? Is it the same as in your Silver Tobeco? Maybe try trimming your wick just a bit more?

I'm definitely gonna try working with the wick some more,i rewicked it again and it got a bit better if i take a draw and wait a minute or so beforei take another.As for the juice,that's why i really dont understand not getting any bubbles.I am running some 60vg/40pg in the silver one and get alot of bubbles,but the juice in the black one,i screwed when ordered,it's 60pg/40vg so it's alot thinner than what i have in the silver one,and should wick faster but i guess not haha.

 

[ricks]

I'm definitely gonna try working with the wick some more,i rewicked it again and it got a bit better if i take a draw and wait a minute or so beforei take another.As for the juice,that's why i really dont understand not getting any bubbles.I am running some 60vg/40pg in the silver one and get alot of bubbles,but the juice in the black one,i screwed when ordered,it's 60pg/40vg so it's alot thinner than what i have in the silver one,and should wick faster but i guess not haha.

Did you try putting the bottom of the SS one on the black top to rule out the top piece?

 

[Nick N]

Tobecco SS clone here.. I have broken it down three times including the removal of the orings. I used dish soap, alcohol, and vinegar soaks. I vape unflavored vg/pg/nic 50/50. I still taste something that I don't with the Magma and Orchid v2. Is it possible the orings absorbed the machine oil from the factory? I think I am going to order a few kits from Gearbest, just wondering if anyone has noticed the same thing? I am using my usual rayon wicking. No dry hits or leaks, I like it quite a bit aside from the funny taste.

 

[Fernand]

Thanks for the kind answers to previous questions.

Here's some detail of the build I've been using with very good results. There are SO MANY variables in these juice-hungry creatures, so many ways to make 'em better or worse! If we get certified in Kayfun V4, can we operate other RTAs?

There are 4 liquid feed holes in the deck. I've been keeping 2 out of 4 pretty clear of the cotton wicks - the barbells I keep on the tips of the rolled 400 Stainless Steel mesh. That wicks better than a longer straight mesh wick down to the deck, IMHO. That's what the little blue-handled screwdrivers are about - keeping these holes clear during the build. I"m not sure yet if it's better to have the cotton cover all 4 holes.



My question du jour is how air flow adjustments interact with the liquid flow.

I mean that bottom coil tank atomizers normally suck liquid into the chamber as a side-effect of air being pulled up the tube. Bubbles appear in the tank as air replaces liquid, as liquid is sucked into the chamber. Delicate balance, it's what the air adjust rings do on say Kangertechs. If you plug the air holes completely with your fingers you can shunt all the vacuum so you're 100% sucking liquid into the chamber and to the coil. Do that on the Kayfun 4 and it's a very gurgly experience - it's better done in emergencies, in moderation, only as needed to prevent dry hits. But I'm really REALLY impressed with how well it takes care of itself - no need to play plug & suck.

So, is anyone using the Juice Control ring part-way to adjust the vacuum and hence the rate of liquid flow?

Is anyone using the internal air-adjust screw to control the rate of liquid flow, or does it only affect the air?

 

[KTMRider]

Tobecco SS clone here.. I have broken it down three times including the removal of the orings. I used dish soap, alcohol, and vinegar soaks. I vape unflavored vg/pg/nic 50/50. I still taste something that I don't with the Magma and Orchid v2. Is it possible the orings absorbed the machine oil from the factory? I think I am going to order a few kits from Gearbest, just wondering if anyone has noticed the same thing? I am using my usual rayon wicking. No dry hits or leaks, I like it quite a bit aside from the funny taste.

Did you completely break down the base? And take the air flow screw out to clean the inside of the post. I do a quick 5-10 min cleaning with dish washing liquid and it's squeaky clean with no machine oil smell at all. Some have mentioned that taking off the o-rings because there could be some machine oil under them.

Thanks for the kind answers to previous questions.

Here's some detail of the build I've been using with very good results. There are SO MANY variables in these creatures, so many ways to make it better or worse! There are 4 liquid feed holes in the deck. I've been keeping 2 out of 4 pretty clear of the cotton wicks, the barbels I keep on the tips of the rolled 400 Stainless Steel mesh. That wicks better than a longer straight mesh wick down to the deck, IMHO. That's what the little blue-handled screwdrivers are about - keeping these holes clear during the build. I"m not sure yet if it's better to have the cotton cover all 4 holes.

View attachment 410367

My question du jour is how air flow adjustments interact with the liquid flow.

I mean that bottom coil tank atomizers normally suck liquid into the chamber as a side-effect of air being pulled up the tube. Bubbles appear in the tank as air replaces liquid, as liquid is sucked into the chamber. Delicate balance, it's what the air adjust rings do on say Kangertechs. If you plug the air holes completely with your fingers you can shunt all the vacuum so you're 100% sucking liquid into the chamber and to the coil. Do that on the Kayfun 4 and it's a very gurgly experience - it's better done in moderation, as needed to prevent dry hits.

So, is anyone using the Juice Control ring part-way to adjust the vacuum and hence the rate of liquid flow?

Is anyone using the internal air-adjust screw to control the rate of liquid flow, or does it only affect the air?

Looks good. I've tried all different ways and I've had no issues with juice delivery, even when chain vaping. I use the JC as either wide open or closed. My air flow is adjusted a touch more open than a KFL+.