Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!

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young gotti

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late to the game, got my kayfun v4 last night, washed it all out....had a tough time getting it apart, built it and started vaping

after a couple hits, it's all dry hits, now I can't get the stupid thing apart to fix or play with the coil....besides sticking a screwdriver in the juice control hole (already cost me a screwdriver snapping) how do you get this thing apart?
 

MikeE3

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late to the game, got my kayfun v4 last night, washed it all out....had a tough time getting it apart, built it and started vaping

after a couple hits, it's all dry hits, now I can't get the stupid thing apart to fix or play with the coil....besides sticking a screwdriver in the juice control hole (already cost me a screwdriver snapping) how do you get this thing apart?

Try taking the 510 screw out and using your 'backup screwdriver' :rolleyes: in the air hole. I had one lock up really tight and this worked for me.
 

young gotti

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Try taking the 510 screw out and using your 'backup screwdriver' :rolleyes: in the air hole. I had one lock up really tight and this worked for me.
haha i'll try it

that leads to another concern....I took the 510 pin out to adjust air flow per pbusardo video but when I put it back in, I know it's spring loaded does it always stick out pretty far or am I just not catching anything......it still fired but looked straight to me
 
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ricks

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haha i'll try it

that leads to another concern....I took the 510 pin out to adjust air flow per pbusardo video but when I put it back in, I know it's spring loaded does it always stick out pretty far or am I just not catching anything......it still fired but looked straight to me
Might be hitting the air control screw. Try adjusting the air screw in some and see if the 510 screw goes in further
 
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MikeE3

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haha i'll try it

that leads to another concern....I took the 510 pin out to adjust air flow per pbusardo video but when I put it back in, I know it's spring loaded does it always stick out pretty far or am I just not catching anything......it still fired but looked straight to me

Might be hitting the air control screw. Try adjusting the air screw in some and see if the 510 screw goes in further

I've got some stick out more than others ... I think it's the position of the air screw too that makes the difference.
 

ccwaters

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haha i'll try it

that leads to another concern....I took the 510 pin out to adjust air flow per pbusardo video but when I put it back in, I know it's spring loaded does it always stick out pretty far or am I just not catching anything......it still fired but looked straight to me

Have you gotten it sorted out yet?
 
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hejira

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Hello, everyone! I'm going to purchase my first Kayfuns (clones) soon, but I'd like to have those awesome looking bell caps for them, too. I know people buy them from Fast/Slowtech, but I don't understand how you know which of their MANY bell caps to buy - like, how do you know which bell caps will fit what Kayfun?

Also, was going to order 28 & 30 gauge kanthal for 1.8ish ohm builds - are those good gauges, or should I add 26g too?

My main plan is to stockpile pre-made coils but I want to have what I need for building my own, too, should the need arise.

Thanks for being patient with the noob!
 
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Katya

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Hello, everyone! I'm going to purchase my first Kayfuns (clones) soon, but I'd like to have those awesome looking bell caps for them, too. I know people buy them from Fast/Slowtech, but I don't understand how you know which of their MANY bell caps to buy - like, how do you know which bell caps will fit what Kayfun?

Hello, hejra, and welcome. First you have to decide which Kayfun you want to buy. Then find a bell cap that will fit. FT usually tells you which models their caps are compatible with in their Details section--or check Discussions and Reviews sections.

$1.69 Acrylic Kayfun Bell Cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Also, was going to order 28 & 30 gauge kanthal for 1.8ish ohm builds - are those good gauges, or should I add 26g too?

I only use 29 and 28g Kanthal for my Kayfun; 30 is too hard to work with, 26 is too thick (for me).

My main plan is to stockpile pre-made coils but I want to have what I need for building my own, too, should the need arise.

I never bought any ready made coils; once you get your supplies, you'll discover that making your own coils is easy. I usually make a bunch of coils when a have a little time and store them in a small box. But you need a good tool. I use Kuro coiler (with removable rod), Tobeco clone, I bought from Desert Vapes. I can make coils in my sleep with this tool. I have 2 and 2.5mm coilers.

Tobeco Kuro Coil Jig

Good luck!
 

cobalt327

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*SNIP*
Also, was going to order 28 & 30 gauge kanthal for 1.8ish ohm builds - are those good gauges, or should I add 26g too?

My main plan is to stockpile pre-made coils but I want to have what I need for building my own, too, should the need arise.

Thanks for being patient with the noob!
28 to 30 gauge Kanthal will cover the majority of the single coil builds you're likely to use on the KFv4. I like Lightening Vapes for buying wire but there are many vendors to choose from.

My "pet" KFv4 build is 7 turns of 29 gauge Kanthal slightly spaced with a 2.5mm ID. Resistance is around 1.5 ohms. I use rayon exclusively for wicking. Good luck!
 

young gotti

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Have you gotten it sorted out yet?

yes kind of....got it apart, rebuilt it

good vapor, no burnt flavor.....however I don't get much flavor from it like I did the kayfun lite and I have leaking around the air flow control, it's probably user error on my end with the air flow control...I left it overnight and woke up to it leaking from the air flow, maybe I just need to close it off at night
 

hejira

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Hello, hejra, and welcome. First you have to decide which Kayfun you want to buy. Then find a bell cap that will fit. FT usually tells you which models their caps are compatible with in their Details section--or check Discussions and Reviews sections.

$1.69 Acrylic Kayfun Bell Cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping



I only use 29 and 28g Kanthal for my Kayfun; 30 is too hard to work with, 26 is too thick (for me).



I never bought any ready made coils; once you get your supplies, you'll discover that making your own coils is easy. I usually make a bunch of coils when a have a little time and store them in a small box. But you need a good tool. I use Kuro coiler (with removable rod), Tobeco clone, I bought from Desert Vapes. I can make coils in my sleep with this tool. I have 2 and 2.5mm coilers.

Tobeco Kuro Coil Jig

Good luck!

Thanks so much, @Katya ! I'll look more closely at the details section.

I had put a Coil Master jig thingy on my wish list but I will look at the Tobeco one for sure.

I am curious to try building coils. Ideally I would love to be able to rebuild the pre-made ones I like - I think I'll just have to jump in with the Kayfuns and see where that goes.
 

hejira

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28 to 30 gauge Kanthal will cover the majority of the single coil builds you're likely to use on the KFv4. I like Lightening Vapes for buying wire but there are many vendors to choose from.

My "pet" KFv4 build is 7 turns of 29 gauge Kanthal slightly spaced with a 2.5mm ID. Resistance is around 1.5 ohms. I use rayon exclusively for wicking. Good luck!

Right on, @cobalt327 - I will definitely check out Lightning Vapes.

Good to hear 28 & 30 should do just fine.
 
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hejira

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Not sure if FT has precoiled Kanthal in the resistance you want- but I did see NiCr coils that fit what you wanted, like SKU 2133206.

Wow, interesting. My mind associates NiCr with sub-ohm, which I'm not into - I'm definitely a MTLer. But...with 1.8 I can try the TC experience as a MTLer?
 
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ccwaters

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yes kind of....got it apart, rebuilt it

good vapor, no burnt flavor.....however I don't get much flavor from it like I did the kayfun lite and I have leaking around the air flow control, it's probably user error on my end with the air flow control...I left it overnight and woke up to it leaking from the air flow, maybe I just need to close it off at night

What you running for a build in it?
 
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TheKiwi

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Wow, interesting. My mind associates NiCr with sub-ohm, which I'm not into - I'm definitely a MTLer. But...with 1.8 I can try the TC experience as a MTLer?
NiCr is Nichrome. You'll need nickel to run TC


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Katya

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I am curious to try building coils. Ideally I would love to be able to rebuild the pre-made ones I like

What are you using currently? Most replaceable coil heads can be rebuilt--some are easier to rebuild than others.

Wow, interesting. My mind associates NiCr with sub-ohm, which I'm not into

Kanthal and Nichrome wires are used in power (wattage, voltage) modes. Either can be used for sub-ohm builds.

Differences Between Kanthal and Nichrome Resistance Wire

But...with 1.8 I can try the TC experience as a MTLer?

For TC vaping, you'll have to use pure nickel, titanium (or stainless steel) wire if and only if you have a TC-supporting mod.
 

hejira

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What are you using currently? Most replaceable coil heads can be rebuilt--some are easier to rebuild than others.

I am using the triton mini 1.8 Clapton coils, and I really like them.

Also have really enjoyed the regular Triton 2 1.8 kanthal coils.

Just tried those 2 new ones but I think they are very similar to the Nautilus 1.8 BVC coils, in terms of flavor. I have seen a nautilus coil rebuild video - it looks doable, but I haven't tried building any yet. From what I've read here at ECF the Kayfun seemed to be a good starting point for building.

It would be a relief to be able to build all the coils I mentioned simply because I would feel able to handle a vapocalypse situation. Necessity being the mother of invention - or learning - and all.



Kanthal and Nichrome wires are used in power (wattage, voltage) modes. Either can be used for sub-ohm builds.

Differences Between Kanthal and Nichrome Resistance Wire

I did not know this - or maybe I've just related the TC thing to sub-ohming. I will read the article you linked to to understand better.



For TC vaping, you'll have to use pure nickel, titanium (or stainless steel) wire if and only if you have a TC-supporting mod.

Most of the wires or coils I've seen that are nickel or titanium have been <1 ohm. Do people use nickel & titanium/ss to build higher ohm coils for TC use?

Sorry if I'm a bit confused...still sorting it all out in my mind, I guess!

Edit: I know aspire makes an rba kit for the triton, and I'm trying to find out whether it works with the Triton 2 tank.
 
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