Authentic Aqua V2 for $25 shipped...

[ThunderDan]

Huh, I got so excited I did not do my normal vodka bath & boil. Apparently it doesn't need washing because I'm getting excellent flavor.

Kind of off topic but I'm just getting around to playing with temperature control and coincidentally subohm vaping... not sure if I'm doing something wrong or if this is working as intended.
sbody Macro DNA40
Dual coil ni200 10 wraps @ .14 ohms on authentic Aqua v2.
TC @430f, watts @16.
Atomizer gets very hot, but temperature doesn't register most of the time and when it does register it stays around 200f or lower. Does temperature just not display when you're under a certain temperature? Why is the atomizer so hot when the coil is registering so low?
You're supposed to lock the atomizer before firing in TC, right? Is there a way to check if you're in normal or TC mode?

What gauge ni200 wire is that?

Regarding the DNA40, you don't need to lock the atomizer, I wouldn't recommend doing that with this atomizer. That feature is more for pre built kanger type coils where there aren't solid connections. You are in temp control if you have the temp set to X degrees, in your example if should be on as you stated you set the temp to 430F. The temp should be on the screen, and while firing you may see the wattage drop as it hits the temp you've set.

To me it sounds like something isn't quite right with your build. I would try single coil first, especially considering you're using ni200 and a dna40.

 

[hypocritelecteur]

It's 28g nickel.
Thanks for the tips. I'll give single coil a shot--fewer variables that way. Building with nickel is a huge pain in the balls.

 

[ThunderDan]

It's 28g nickel.
Thanks for the tips. I'll give single coil a shot--fewer variables that way. Building with nickel is a huge pain in the balls.

Yeah, for 28g that resistance is way too high for a dual coil with 10 wraps (with an ID that would fit in the aqua v2). I would almost wager .14ohm is one of your coils, or they are shorting out against something they shouldn't be touching.

Do a single 28 ni200 coil with spaced wraps, 8-10 on a 2.5-3mm mandrel, that should work better. Make sure the coil fits within the deck without touch the side of the tank/chimney when you put that back on.

 

[jmarkus]

With AFC all the way open it can move if I push it this way or that, but it doesn't wobble.

thats the wobble im talking about. it doesnt wobble freely, just if i nudge it this way or that. thanks for clarifying. YOU HAVE WOBBLE!!!!

 

[TheBloke]

even with afc open? can you do me a favor and try moving the top tank while on a mod and afc open half or so.

Both of mine wobble all the way down to one half turn away from fully closed. Worse than my clones, actually With my Aqua SEs, one is rock solid and the other wobbles a little - less than these two v2s.

I wonder if it could be reduces with a different o-ring around the base? Has anyone tried that? I never really read the original, now closed authentic v2 thread.

Any recommendations for drip tips on this thing? I'm using an old fogger v4.1 DT because it was one of the few I had on hand that wasn't too wide to overhang the top of the chimney part.

I usually just use any old drip tip, I don't mind the overhang. Squape and Taifun (clone) tips fit inside the chimney diameter.

I haven't built either of my new v2s yet, but plan to this evening. When I do, I think I'm going to remove this tip from the tank it's on and clean it for Aqua service for a while. It swells out to exactly the chimney's diameter and I think it looks made for the tank:



It's a Titanium drip tip all the way from the Ukraine, which I got recently at the same time as the Ataman 2.

Recently I have been experimenting with using a super tight, dual o-ring DT in order to add a partial top fill capability to the v2. I got the idea after getting the Aqua SE which has this properly implemented.

I've found that if I leave the top chimney part unattached when putting on the tank, I can then screw it on using a really tight DT eg from a Taifun GT2 (clone). Screwed in like that, it's then possible to unscrew it later and fill from the top - having first closed the airflow/juice control by screwing down the whole tank.

This is exactly how the SE is top filled, and the v2 is very similar except that the top-chimney will be too tight unless you add it in last, and there's nothing to easily grip from the outside so you need a very tight DT to do it.

You can't fill it full, but I reckon it's at least 2ml, maybe 2.5. The advantage is it makes it world easier to fill using dripper bottles. Half of my juice - the UK half - comes with little nozzles which are fine, but the rest is in US-style 30ml bottles with dripper tops, and I always find that makes a mess trying to fill the small v2 holes. It always overflows the holes and spills down the chimney, however I place the tip of the dripper in relation to the hole.

Not to mention that top fill can be a bit quicker than removing the whole tank even with the right bottle top to do it with. It depends how easily the chimney top comes off, which in turns depends on having the right tip.

So far I'm liking this tank more than I thought I would. I don't normally like this restrictive of airflow, but I made an exception for this one, and am glad I did. I can see this being a regular in my rotation.

Told you it was great

 

[roxynoodle]

Haven't played with the new one yet, but I have my OTM 2/3 open and no wobble.

 

[ThunderDan]

Both of mine wobble all the way down to one half turn away from fully closed. Worse than my clones, actually With my Aqua SEs, one is rock solid and the other wobbles a little - less than these two v2s.

I wonder if it could be reduces with a different o-ring around the base? Has anyone tried that? I never really read the original, now closed authentic v2 thread.



I usually just use any old drip tip, I don't mind the overhang. Squape and Taifun (clone) tips fit inside the chimney diameter.

I haven't built either of my new v2s yet, but plan to this evening. When I do, I think I'm going to remove this tip from the tank it's on and clean it for Aqua service for a while. It swells out to exactly the chimney's diameter and I think it looks made for the tank:



It's a Titanium drip tip all the way from the Ukraine, which I got recently at the same time as the Ataman 2.

Recently I have been experimenting with using a super tight, dual o-ring DT in order to add a partial top fill capability to the v2. I got the idea after getting the Aqua SE which has this properly implemented.

I've found that if I leave the top chimney part unattached when putting on the tank, I can then screw it on using a really tight DT eg from a Taifun GT2 (clone). Screwed in like that, it's then possible to unscrew it later and fill from the top - having first closed the airflow/juice control by screwing down the whole tank.

This is exactly how the SE is top filled, and the v2 is very similar except that the top-chimney will be too tight unless you add it in last, and there's nothing to easily grip from the outside so you need a very tight DT to do it.

You can't fill it full, but I reckon it's at least 2ml, maybe 2.5. The advantage is it makes it world easier to fill using dripper bottles. Half of my juice - the UK half - comes with little nozzles which are fine, but the rest is in US-style 30ml bottles with dripper tops, and I always find that makes a mess trying to fill the small v2 holes. It always overflows the holes and spills down the chimney, however I place the tip of the dripper in relation to the hole.

Not to mention that top fill can be a bit quicker than removing the whole tank even with the right bottle top to do it with. It depends how easily the chimney top comes off, which in turns depends on having the right tip.



Told you it was great

That Titanium driptip looks great, but I'm going to try to find something shorter.

Awesome idea on the top fill. Definitely going to try that out as I too have a bunch of the glass bottle with dropper type juices, and most of the time I'm too lazy to put then in unicorn bottles.

 

[hypocritelecteur]

Are the posts supposed to be able to spin?

 

[TheBloke]

Are the posts supposed to be able to spin?

Yes. Both can be unscrewed. The base of the negative is an M5 screw that screws into an M5 thread in the base. Why it's like this I am not sure as there's no real need to remove it - and this was changed in the SE.

From experience I've found that once the negative post is screwed down hard, it shouldn't move again. And I usually keep it in place even while cleaning.

The base of the positive post is an M2.5 thread, which screws onto threading on the copper positive pole, through the white plastic insulator. That pole then screws into a copper circle you can see if you unscrew the base cap, and the copper 510 screws into that. The entire positive path can thus be removed, along with the positive post, the post insulator and the base/airflow insulator, plus a couple of o-rings. I remove all of these things when cleaning in my ultrasonic, because if I don't water will still get down there anyway and might be trapped.

The positive post will tend to move, because it's screwed into the soft insulator. Worst case, you need to hold it with pliers with screwing/unscrewing the positive screw. To avoid gouging the metal with pliers, you can also push a needle through the wire holes, in one and out the other, and use that as a crank to rotate the post hard to get it nice and tight. But it will never screw super tight because of that insulator, and be aware of screwing it too tight, as I have munged the threading on one of my clones - and that positive pole is soft copper so it will get damaged easily.

In Footoon's tutorial videos he showed holding it with pliers while tightening the positive screw. (Same deal with the SE, where it's even more important not to over-tighten because the insulator is ceramic and can break.)

 

[inswva]

and be aware of screwing it too tight, as I have munged the threading on one of my clones

Words of wisdom. I purchased a second hand authentic V2 which came with a pre-stripped positive post courtesy of the previous owner. I was less than thrilled.

 

[roxynoodle]

No wobble on this one either.

I've always wanted to compare the authentic and OTM and if there's any difference its not obvious, but I may need to have them both completely apart at the same time.

 

[VaPreis]

Many have reported wobbles. I don't have my authentic yet, but my OTM never has.

It's not so much that it wobbles by itself, it's that the tank can be moved slightly from side to side if you try. My OTM does it, and I keep the AFC less then half open. The original (v1) was no better, in fact, it was worse. Never had one leak or anything because of it. I received my Aqua V2 from Local Vape today. It also has the obligatory Aqua tank wobble.

I have no doubt the tank I received is authentic. Mine was [HASHTAG]#984[/HASHTAG] Shark. Also, I see zero difference between it and my "OTM" Aqua V2, other than the authentic came with an authenticity card and didn't have a ding in the metal case like my OTM.

 

[roxynoodle]

It's not so much that it wobbles by itself, it's that the tank can be moved slightly from side to side if you try. My OTM does it, and I keep the AFC less then half open. The original (v1) was no better, in fact, it was worse. Never had one leak or anything because of it. I received my Aqua V2 from Local Vape today. It also has the obligatory Aqua tank wobble.

I have no doubt the tank I received is authentic. Mine was [HASHTAG]#984[/HASHTAG] Shark. Also, I see zero difference between it and my "OTM" Aqua V2, other than the authentic came with an authenticity card and didn't have a ding in the metal case like my OTM.

Lol! Neither of my tins have dings

Yep, I'm sure this is the authentic as well. I think I got [HASHTAG]#583[/HASHTAG] Shark.

 

[smokewell]

My 331S flashlight arrived too. Looks good.
Single coil 2.5mm NiFe70 .3ohms. Tastes good, tight draw though. Is it airier with two coils?

 

[roxynoodle]

I physically tried to get them to wobble, but they don't. So I'm still not sure what's going on with the wobblers. Hard to believe I got lucky with two, because I'm not a lucky person, lol!

 

[hypocritelecteur]

I think they're using a different definition of wobble than the rest of of the world

I would have to pull or push on it harder than is comfortable to get it to move. It doesn't wobble so much as its able to be forced.

I mean, you probably should not keep this in your jeans pocket because you'll put tension against those threads but putting vape gear in your pants pocket is always a bad idea anyway.

This guy is my new favorite atomizer. Phenomenal taste, draw runs from tight to medium, not hard to work on. Its fantastic.

The two post dual coil design can be a bit of a bear. How are people holding both coils in place when tightening post acrews? Its a bit trickier than a three post or velocity style deck.

 

[roxynoodle]

I would need to see one that is wobbling. If I force them any further than I have I might wreck them.

My FeVs had wobbling drip tips so I'm sure some of them may wobble. Or I don't have my airhole completely open either. I like the flavor at 2/3 open.

 

[ThunderDan]

My 331S flashlight arrived too. Looks good.
Single coil 2.5mm NiFe70 .3ohms. Tastes good, tight draw though. Is it airier with two coils?
View attachment 488780

I haven't tried single coil yet, but with duals its still pretty restrictive. But yeah, would be airier, but only slightly.

 

[TheBloke]

I would need to see one that is wobbling. If I force them any further than I have I might wreck them.

I made a (very low quality) cell phone video demonstrating mine. Turn the volume up a bit so you can hear the wobble as it's not always obvious on screen.

It does seem to vary a lot according to the exact position - and not always obviously, ie sometimes unscrewing it a bit more reduces the wobble.

And as a caveat, neither of my tanks have yet been used. I fully dismantled them and ultrasonic cleaned them, then re-assembled. The o-rings are therefore dry, and so screwing/unscrewing is tighter/slower than it will be when they're moistened with juice. I don't know whether this affects the wobble either way.

 

[smokewell]

Mine wobbles too. Very light press to feel the movement. 1-2 mm movement.