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Screw the bulb tightly down and loosen just the bottom 510-510 connector... that is where it was designed to feed... the hole in the bulb is where the negative end of your coil makes contact. There are 2 feed holes in that lower connection that are adjusted by screwing the whole top assembly, including the whole bulb, up. You can see in this photo the bulb is screwed closed, and the feed holes are underneath the bulb in the gap.
That's what I thought also, the only problem was when I used the 510 to 510 adapter piece to use as a feed control, I had juice run out of the tank into the 510 connection. I watched a few videos and they all used the bulb as the feed control. I drilled out the ground hole to 1/16th and that fixed the feed problem. I may have to use some cheep juice and see if i can get it working with the 510 as the feeder.
I have the opposite problem, sometimes I have to crank the bulb up and down a couple of times to get a bubble out of it, or do a couple of draws without firing the coil to get it wicking again... I have had it leak out the 510 connection only when I tried to fill the AGR through the fill hole as the tank pressurized, and once when I opened the fill hole and took a couple of draws to see if it would improve the wicking. I'm using about 80/20 PG/VG, so it's not thick...
Thick juice & feed problems:
My latest batch of organic VG came a little thicker then last time. I noticed feed problems in everything I vaped from.
Normal 60/40 PG/VG mix was augmented with 10 to 20% vodka (eyeballed it) and that thinned the mix to a slightly higher viscosity of plain PG. Fixed everything.
Though I did buy some distiled water so I don't have to rely on vodka.
I miss my TT!
My coil is dead, and yeah, (surrendering to logic) it is useless to make coils without non-res leads.
I miss the great flavor, and dense plums of vapage!
Hey Bad, ol'buddy ol'pal. Any chance of getting replacement Atomizers for the TT at GotVapes? Or ready made coils with non-resistant leads. The latter sold out fast at another vendor. It was a 2.2 Ohm Coil, 50 Pack @ $9.99. Peeps would eat'em up I bet.
My latest batch of organic VG came a little thicker then last time. I noticed feed problems in everything I vaped from.
Normal 60/40 PG/VG mix was augmented with 10 to 20% vodka (eyeballed it) and that thinned the mix to a slightly higher viscosity of plain PG. Fixed everything.
Though I did buy some distiled water so I don't have to rely on vodka.
I miss my TT!
My coil is dead, and yeah, (surrendering to logic) it is useless to make coils without non-res leads.
I miss the great flavor, and dense plums of vapage!
Hey Bad, ol'buddy ol'pal. Any chance of getting replacement Atomizers for the TT at GotVapes? Or ready made coils with non-resistant leads. The latter sold out fast at another vendor. It was a 2.2 Ohm Coil, 50 Pack @ $9.99. Peeps would eat'em up I bet.
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My coil is dead, and yeah, (surrendering to logic) it is useless to make coils without non-res leads.
I miss the great flavor, and dense plums of vapage!
Hey Bad, ol'buddy ol'pal. Any chance of getting replacement Atomizers for the TT at GotVapes? Or ready made coils with non-resistant leads. The latter sold out fast at another vendor. It was a 2.2 Ohm Coil, 50 Pack @ $9.99. Peeps would eat'em up I bet.
I bought 3 packs of them! You could also look at making yourself one of these:
Spark-O-Matic Arc Welding Coil wire - YouTube
That was a great vid, thank you.
- I bought some 30 Gauge pure-nickel wire off of a big auction site. I'm looking forward to vaping my Terminator Tank again!
Any replacement ceramic cups? Mine broke Still working but sucks. I used 30 gauge 5 wraps getting 1.5 ohms.
Still working but sucks. I used 30 gauge 5 wraps getting 1.5 ohms.Screw the bulb tightly down and loosen just the bottom 510-510 connector... that is where it was designed to feed... the hole in the bulb is where the negative end of your coil makes contact. There are 2 feed holes in that lower connection that are adjusted by screwing the whole top assembly, including the whole bulb, up. You can see in this photo the bulb is screwed closed, and the feed holes are underneath the bulb in the gap.
Just curious as to what the consensus is on this matter; are you other people here opening the bulb or the top of the 510-510? Personally, both worked for me, but the bulb seems to work better for juice flow and doesn't lead to leaking.
I do wonder if feeding it through the bulb leads to the coils wearing faster, though. Does anyone have any insight to that?
I was using the bulb also (won't fit in a Billet Box so I haven't used it for a while.) If you think about it - the bulb is closest to the wick. Never did blow the original coil so that issue be related to voltage or coil alignment. That being said, if I used it today it would probably blow!
This is why we need detailed user manuals on devices like this; sure some of the more clever vapers can figure them out enough to work OK, but it would be better to know exactly what the manufacturer had in mind. How close of a Killer copy is this?
While mine was working, I was only using the hole in the bulb at first, but tightening the TT as a whole, onto my PV made the bulb close too. So I put a piece of spring-steel (cut like the letter C) around the base of the bulb. Making it permanently opened in its tank mode. Worked good. But following the advice here, I also started using the 510 method. I just barely had to keep it opened. Basically just "loose". Worked amazingly well. No leaking at all, ever. I had flooding problems, but that was easily mitigated by introducing positive pressure into the TT. Just hold it horizontally (up in the air) and gently blow through it, and I watched the excess juice vacate the bulb through the bulb hole I left opened. Then I'd pull on it (suck) just to prime it if you will, and it would be golden again.
It was a steam engine for me! The TT made amazing flavor too. I think it worked so good, that it did accelerate my coil's demise. It just got gummed up with carbon. - I'm excited to get the TT working again. (waiting on NR wire)
MadQuack, you also asked about the Killer. I read that it, and our TT work the same, but I didn't see any mention about a 510 adapter adjusting juice flow, just air flow.
Also, they are made differently. The Killer is $70 for good reason I guess.
The Killer is all stainless steel, and sold without a tank.I hope everyone has a good week!
for everyone trying to use NR wire, have you tried to use microcoils http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...71-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html?
If the coils are wrapped around a 1/16 bit and then heated then immediatly squeezed together they have very little space between the individual coils and greatly reduce hotlegs, even on really long legs like I have on my IGO-l currently.
If the coils are wrapped around a 1/16 bit and then heated then immediatly squeezed together they have very little space between the individual coils and greatly reduce hotlegs, even on really long legs like I have on my IGO-l currently.
I got my nickel NR wire yesterday. 30 GA size.
I tried to make one of those cute knots that was seen in a video a few post back (thanks!) but since I was using nichrome 36awg (12mm) it made it hard to tie a knot. The wire sizes are just to different. (My thicker kanthal won't have that problem)
I did continue along with the nichrome for this first coil. I ended up making another simple knot with the NR wire. I pulled it taught, and it hugged first knot. Sloppy as all heck! But the knots where tiny IMO. After attaching the NR(nickel) leads to the (R)nichrome wire, I had 2 inches of (R) wire to make my coil with.
Actually it was just a hair under 2". But after putting it all together and trimming the leads, the ohms came to 5.3!!!! almost 120% higher then I was hoping for.
So, either 2 inches of nichrome is too long, or we are throwing ohms out the window when using a NR-R-NR coil. I don't know.
I'm vapeing with it right now and it great! So IDK. I'm going to try kanthal next, or maybe 1.5" of nichrome. Or an even shorter nichrome mico-coil. All I know is, ...it works, and it's not overheating, - so I'm a happy camper again.
I tried to make one of those cute knots that was seen in a video a few post back (thanks!) but since I was using nichrome 36awg (12mm) it made it hard to tie a knot. The wire sizes are just to different. (My thicker kanthal won't have that problem)
I did continue along with the nichrome for this first coil. I ended up making another simple knot with the NR wire. I pulled it taught, and it hugged first knot. Sloppy as all heck! But the knots where tiny IMO. After attaching the NR(nickel) leads to the (R)nichrome wire, I had 2 inches of (R) wire to make my coil with.
Actually it was just a hair under 2". But after putting it all together and trimming the leads, the ohms came to 5.3!!!! almost 120% higher then I was hoping for.
So, either 2 inches of nichrome is too long, or we are throwing ohms out the window when using a NR-R-NR coil. I don't know.
I'm vapeing with it right now and it great! So IDK. I'm going to try kanthal next, or maybe 1.5" of nichrome. Or an even shorter nichrome mico-coil.
All I know is, ...it works, and it's not overheating, - so I'm a happy camper again.
I got my nickel NR wire yesterday. 30 GA size.
I tried to make one of those cute knots that was seen in a video a few post back (thanks!) but since I was using nichrome 36awg (12mm) it made it hard to tie a knot. The wire sizes are just to different. (My thicker kanthal won't have that problem)
I did continue along with the nichrome for this first coil. I ended up making another simple knot with the NR wire. I pulled it taught, and it hugged first knot. Sloppy as all heck! But the knots where tiny IMO. After attaching the NR(nickel) leads to the (R)nichrome wire, I had 2 inches of (R) wire to make my coil with.
Actually it was just a hair under 2". But after putting it all together and trimming the leads, the ohms came to 5.3!!!! almost 120% higher then I was hoping for.
So, either 2 inches of nichrome is too long, or we are throwing ohms out the window when using a NR-R-NR coil. I don't know.
I'm vapeing with it right now and it great! So IDK. I'm going to try kanthal next, or maybe 1.5" of nichrome. Or an even shorter nichrome mico-coil.
not sure about the nickle as I have silver for my nr wire, but this might help.....2 inches of 36 nichrome is gonna get you pretty high in the ohms dept
not sure what resistance you were aiming for http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../320042-resistance-wire-kanthal-nichrome.html
not sure about the nickle as I have silver for my nr wire, but this might help.....2 inches of 36 nichrome is gonna get you pretty high in the ohms dept
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo.../320042-resistance-wire-kanthal-nichrome.html
HOLY COW! KEELA! You are a gentledoggie and a scholar!
Knowing the inch/resistance ratings will help me immensely!
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
While I have yer'cute floppy ear, have you ever tried flat ribbon kanthal? TEMco is sending along with wire orders, little ads touting the benefits of ribbon kanthal. They say it has more surface area for superior vapor production. ???
(something tells me it has superior profit margins too)
HOLY COW! KEELA! You are a gentledoggie and a scholar!
Knowing the inch/resistance ratings will help me immensely!
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
While I have yer'cute floppy ear, have you ever tried flat ribbon kanthal? TEMco is sending along with wire orders, little ads touting the benefits of ribbon kanthal. They say it has more surface area for superior vapor production. ???
(something tells me it has superior profit margins too)
♥♥♥ You are most welcome ♥♥♥
no...I haven't tried the ribbon wire. You have to be careful with it though. make sure there are no twists when you wrap it. I don't want to have to pay THAT much attention to my wraps
I know how much trouble I have with actual ribbon when wrapping it around a spool...I can only imagine the mess I'd have with the wire trying to wrap it around a wick
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So it will work fine in a valley view sidewinder tank? I've been looking everywhere for the answer to this question.
Welcome!
The VV Sidewinder is "1"OD x 1" L." so the length is just barely enough to fit the Terminator Tank.
BUT it's that 1" OD that leads me to think, the TT wont fit your sidewinder.
The Terminator Tank from GotVapes is 2 and 6/8th inches OD. (rough measure) I'm talking about just the plastic tank. It's possible your SW could fit, but there would be little room left for your juice.
All isn't lost tho! Just buy the TT and use the polycarbonate tank it comes with, and worry about a pyrex later. If you are an advanced vaper, then u will love playing with the TT. Flavor and vapor is fantastic for the money.
Good luck Bjj!
(maybe someone can recommend a pyrex tank that'll fit the TT???)
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