whoa, i been using mine as a dripper,not set up tank yet,now that i know what that 510 connector does(thanks), this thing is puttin out a bigger cloud than a skeeter truck!!!!
OK wait that low lower bit is not unscrewing for me just the bulb.
I have totally mangled my addy piece now.... I was in the right track when I said my never mind.....
whoa, i been using mine as a dripper,not set up tank yet,now that i know what that 510 connector does(thanks), this thing is puttin out a bigger cloud than a skeeter truck!!!!
I actually used two sets of padded needle-nose pliers to get it unscrewed... used one to grab the bottom portion of the bell and one to grab the 510-510. It takes a decent amount of torque to get them separated! Then I took off the 510-510, grabbed the bottom threads under the bell, and tightened the bell down really hard. Now, with the stem of the TT that sticks out over the top of the AGR, I can just grab and twist to raise and lower the bell and the threads on the bell stay closed. It took me quite a bit of reading on the threads for the Killer to finally figure out how this thing is supposed to work, but now that I've got it down, it's my new favorite thing...
edit: Added bonus... it doesn't turn my juice into black molasses after running a few tanks through it!
yes they do , i hadnt tried it that way till i started reading this thread,im getting way more vapor and flavor by fooling with adjusting it back and forth.If you use it as a dripper, do the feed holes work as an air control? I've actually never tried dripping with it. I ordered an AGI also, but I kind of set it aside because I've been fascinated with this little guy. I like the idea of a carto tank, but I hate traditional cartos, and haven't had much luck with the Raven (burny taste and dry hits at 3.7 volts).
Yeah I grabbed the threads with one pair and the stem with another! Striped threads and mangled it good. Forgot the padded part.... and it was working well as a dripper too...
now ya need a die nut to chase/fix those threads.
FWIW somewhere in the rebuilding of nova heads or some such the idea came about to leave the coil legs twice as long as needed then double them over and twist the leg and the extra together (think like a bread tie lol) and end the twisted part right where the coil starts. This way the finished legs have less resistance then the coil and wont get hot. It can eliminate the need for the nr wire. I don't know if it would work in this situation exactly but came to mind as a less tricky solution to solve the leg issue without having to try and deal with the problems of trying to add the nr wire.
HTH
I'm not sure if the doubled up legs would fit the holes in the ceramic cup... I don't have one handy to look at right now.