whoa, i been using mine as a dripper,not set up tank yet,now that i know what that 510 connector does(thanks), this thing is puttin out a bigger cloud than a skeeter truck!!!!
- Status
OK wait that low lower bit is not unscrewing for mejust the bulb.
I have totally mangled my addy piece now.... I was in the right track when I said my never mind.....
I actually used two sets of padded needle-nose pliers to get it unscrewed... used one to grab the bottom portion of the bell and one to grab the 510-510. It takes a decent amount of torque to get them separated! Then I took off the 510-510, grabbed the bottom threads under the bell, and tightened the bell down really hard. Now, with the stem of the TT that sticks out over the top of the AGR, I can just grab and twist to raise and lower the bell and the threads on the bell stay closed. It took me quite a bit of reading on the threads for the Killer to finally figure out how this thing is supposed to work, but now that I've got it down, it's my new favorite thing...
edit: Added bonus... it doesn't turn my juice into black molasses after running a few tanks through it!
Last edited:
If you use it as a dripper, do the feed holes work as an air control? I've actually never tried dripping with it. I ordered an AGI also, but I kind of set it aside because I've been fascinated with this little guy. I like the idea of a carto tank, but I hate traditional cartos, and haven't had much luck with the Raven (burny taste and dry hits at 3.7 volts).
Last edited:
I actually used two sets of padded needle-nose pliers to get it unscrewed... used one to grab the bottom portion of the bell and one to grab the 510-510. It takes a decent amount of torque to get them separated! Then I took off the 510-510, grabbed the bottom threads under the bell, and tightened the bell down really hard. Now, with the stem of the TT that sticks out over the top of the AGR, I can just grab and twist to raise and lower the bell and the threads on the bell stay closed. It took me quite a bit of reading on the threads for the Killer to finally figure out how this thing is supposed to work, but now that I've got it down, it's my new favorite thing...
edit: Added bonus... it doesn't turn my juice into black molasses after running a few tanks through it!
Yeah I grabbed the threads with one pair and the stem with another! Striped threads and mangled it good. Forgot the padded part.... and it was working well as a dripper too...
I was not succesfully using pliers,, ask my 510 to 510 adapter threads why,, LOL
Sent from my iVap using Tapatalk HD
Sent from my iVap using Tapatalk HD
yes they do , i hadnt tried it that way till i started reading this thread,im getting way more vapor and flavor by fooling with adjusting it back and forth.
i have a set of taps and die i bought off amazon for 510 threads,just for this type stuff, but i tinker alot.
I also experienced the wobble until i played a little more, this thing is a beast. time for video
I just rebuilt mine! First coil I've ever made. I did cheat a bit, I got some premade 2ohm NR-R-NR wires so I didn't have to deal with making the NR legs myself... not as hard to do as I expected, thanks to the help of a paperclip to support the silica. I am pleasantly surprised at how well this little thing performs.
Hey all, how's it going?
I'm still loving the TT. I vape it only in tank mode now. It can be finicky. I have read some great stuff from you all, thanks for sharing. Sometimes mine gets flooded. I just turn it upside down and gently blow through it. The excess juice goes back into the tank! But I have mine setup with the wire lead hole (on the threaded cone) permanently open now, that may help. (ask if you want to know how I did it.)
I made my first coil for it Saturday,
and although the ceramic cup rides higher then stock, it works perfectly. I was freaked out about this NR-R-NR wire thing, so I just made a kinda sloppy micro coil using a needle for support while wrapping Kanthal around silica wick. Wick and Kanthal wire is from GV if anybody wants to see the specs.
I made four snug wraps. After I was done I was afraid that the leads where still to long and I would have a high ohm coil. BUT! I was thrilled to have a 2.4 Ohm coil.
Sure, its higher then I would like, but it vapes great. No better then stock I'm afraid. Still, it can be done, and I'll be doing it again and again.
This was a great read: NR-R-NR wires Tutorial - I plan on asking some noob questions in a day or so. Chk out that thread if you want to see Afla get learned on resistance/non-resistance coil making. Then get back here!
Forgot to say: When I wrapped my coil, I stabbed the needle through the wick, then wrapped wire around it. Obviously you remove the needle after. I've never done it that way till now, but it's making good coils for me.
I'm still loving the TT. I vape it only in tank mode now. It can be finicky. I have read some great stuff from you all, thanks for sharing. Sometimes mine gets flooded. I just turn it upside down and gently blow through it. The excess juice goes back into the tank! But I have mine setup with the wire lead hole (on the threaded cone) permanently open now, that may help. (ask if you want to know how I did it.)
I made my first coil for it Saturday,
and although the ceramic cup rides higher then stock, it works perfectly. I was freaked out about this NR-R-NR wire thing, so I just made a kinda sloppy micro coil using a needle for support while wrapping Kanthal around silica wick. Wick and Kanthal wire is from GV if anybody wants to see the specs.I made four snug wraps. After I was done I was afraid that the leads where still to long and I would have a high ohm coil. BUT! I was thrilled to have a 2.4 Ohm coil.
Sure, its higher then I would like, but it vapes great. No better then stock I'm afraid. Still, it can be done, and I'll be doing it again and again.
This was a great read: NR-R-NR wires Tutorial - I plan on asking some noob questions in a day or so. Chk out that thread if you want to see Afla get learned on resistance/non-resistance coil making.
Then get back here!Forgot to say: When I wrapped my coil, I stabbed the needle through the wick, then wrapped wire around it. Obviously you remove the needle after. I've never done it that way till now, but it's making good coils for me.
Last edited:
FWIW somewhere in the rebuilding of nova heads or some such the idea came about to leave the coil legs twice as long as needed then double them over and twist the leg and the extra together (think like a bread tie lol) and end the twisted part right where the coil starts. This way the finished legs have less resistance then the coil and wont get hot. It can eliminate the need for the nr wire. I don't know if it would work in this situation exactly but came to mind as a less tricky solution to solve the leg issue without having to try and deal with the problems of trying to add the nr wire.
HTH
HTH
FWIW somewhere in the rebuilding of nova heads or some such the idea came about to leave the coil legs twice as long as needed then double them over and twist the leg and the extra together (think like a bread tie lol) and end the twisted part right where the coil starts. This way the finished legs have less resistance then the coil and wont get hot. It can eliminate the need for the nr wire. I don't know if it would work in this situation exactly but came to mind as a less tricky solution to solve the leg issue without having to try and deal with the problems of trying to add the nr wire.
HTH
Day-um....I love the guys who hang out in these threads !!!!
I don't have to go search all over the forum....the info is brought right to my front door, sorta
I'm not sure if the doubled up legs would fit the holes in the ceramic cup... I don't have one handy to look at right now.
DANG! I think you're right. Maybe nichrome would work, but I do believe kanthal wire is too thick.
Yea I don't have one of these but it sounds like the same deal at the old ce2 had where the coil leg went through a tiny hole in the ceramic cup at the bottom. If you have some of the diamond dremel bit you might could open those holes up a little or just try doubling up the wire right up to the base of the ceramic cup and see how that works out...
For those of you that do not have an AGR tank to lock this in place, I found the air flow controllers that GV carries lock up the TT rather nicely with the supplied tanks. The best part is the feed area will sit on the bottom of the tank with this setup as oppossed to the AGR where the feed slot will be about 3/16 off the bottom of the tank.
One other experience to pass along. Make sure you screw down the feed assembly when filling. Otherwise it can get quite messy.
One other experience to pass along. Make sure you screw down the feed assembly when filling. Otherwise it can get quite messy.
NR-R-NR wire (non-resistance / resistance coils) For those whom are interested.
This video is totally out of context, but it shows all you need to know.
Gotta use them old context clues while watching. It's Youtube's igetcha69 reviewing the old ODYSSEUS RBA ???
Link for vid:
This video is totally out of context, but it shows all you need to know.
Gotta use them old context clues while watching. It's Youtube's igetcha69 reviewing the old ODYSSEUS RBA ???
Link for vid:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
