Bingo.
I ended up closing off the original hole and drilling a new one so it was across from the coil.
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Bingo.
I ended up closing off the original hole and drilling a new one so it was across from the coil.
I'm not on this thread much but heard my name earlier 
The mesh company in England is the best place to buy; they usually throw in an extra sheet or more. For US folks, you can buy it stateside but it's still a better deal in England, even w/ the shipping. By the way, when you order they'll say they don't deliver to the US. Continue, they do.
As for kanthal, I like 32g (.20) best. It's roughly .4 ohms per wrap and gives more 'tweakability'. There's a guy in the US selling it cheap on Ebay but I think he got hit by 'scubabatdan's co-op. I'm sure he'll restock. A 75' spool is around $6.50 USD. That'll last a while.
The mesh company in England is the best place to buy; they usually throw in an extra sheet or more. For US folks, you can buy it stateside but it's still a better deal in England, even w/ the shipping. By the way, when you order they'll say they don't deliver to the US. Continue, they do.
As for kanthal, I like 32g (.20) best. It's roughly .4 ohms per wrap and gives more 'tweakability'. There's a guy in the US selling it cheap on Ebay but I think he got hit by 'scubabatdan's co-op. I'm sure he'll restock. A 75' spool is around $6.50 USD. That'll last a while.
Hi Turbo it might have been me that mentioned you, hope you dont mind cause you bookmark all the important stuff, so now you are a Guru 
Hi Turbo it might have been me that mentioned you, hope you dont mind cause you bookmark all the important stuff, so now you are a Guru
Indeed it was you, no problem, happy to help. My OCD linking comes in hand sometimes...lol
I'm not on this thread much but heard my name earlier
The mesh company in England is the best place to buy; they usually throw in an extra sheet or more. For US folks, you can buy it stateside but it's still a better deal in England, even w/ the shipping. By the way, when you order they'll say they don't deliver to the US. Continue, they do.
As for kanthal, I like 32g (.20) best. It's roughly .4 ohms per wrap and gives more 'tweakability'. There's a guy in the US selling it cheap on Ebay but I think he got hit by 'scubabatdan's co-op. I'm sure he'll restock. A 75' spool is around $6.50 USD. That'll last a while.
I have some .13mm and some .16mm coming in. Do you know what oHm's those will give per wrap or is there a formula to use?
There is a formula yes. The .16 will give roughly .8ohms per wrap. It's also dictated on length not just wraps. That gives a ballpark.
I received my A2-T today. After a few hours of use I am very impressed with it I get more flavor than with the ego-t, wicking is improved as well. Compared to my A2 the A2-T has a tighter less airy draw with improved flavor and TH. The base of the atomizer where you build the coil is identical to the A2. Assembled it is about 1/4" shorter and slightly wider than the A2 at where the piercing plate is located. My first impressions are extremely positive.
My tank conversion kit came today as well. I didn't even make a new coil and I can't believe how well it's working. Of course, it's only been just over an hour, but I already drained a tank looking for a dry hit or flooding. I loosely wrapped a piece of the fat CE2 wick in a slightly longer piece of mesh so it goes further into the tank. I need to try a vertical coil and spike next.
do the Bulli A2 tanks use Ego tanks and if so are they A or B tanks? Thanks Guys
eGo Type A is used, Cetin uses non Joye Tanks with softcaps, personally i like the hardcaps more.
I ordered the all SS A2 tonight, can't wait to get it
I want to have this on an HR coil and the Alu one I already have set up for LR vaping. All avenues covered, then I don't have to change the existing good coil when I want a change of voltage.
I want to have this on an HR coil and the Alu one I already have set up for LR vaping. All avenues covered, then I don't have to change the existing good coil when I want a change of voltage.
I can fit 35 drops in a 701 cart, not much difference to an Ego-T liquid cart really. I can vape heavily for 90mins on one refill.
I was a little scared by having to drill a hole in the upgrade kit, but I can always go for that at a later date if the mood takes me in that direction.
Also, because I already own a DSE 701 kit I can use the carts for that too.
I was a little scared by having to drill a hole in the upgrade kit, but I can always go for that at a later date if the mood takes me in that direction.
Also, because I already own a DSE 701 kit I can use the carts for that too.
Makes good sense, I had a look at the A2T and thought that what i had suited so didnt buy
I'm currently using the Bulli A2-T setup. I've noticed, that for me, setting up the SS mesh with two strands of wick is not allowing enough juice to get to the coil. I use either 60/40 or 70/30 PG/VG. I removed both strands of wick and just used the SS mesh. Noticed much better vapor and flavor right away.
What I have noticed, also, is that the setup leaks into the cup on my Provari. I tried replacing only one of the wicks. Still same great flavor and vapor, but still the leaking.
In looking closely at the setup, the leaking is coming from the two tiny holes drilled into the 510 connector itself. When holding them closed I still get a pretty good draw. Has anyone seen this leaking behavior? I'd like to plug those holes up if I can to stop the leaking. I don't think I want to use the toothpick trick, since I cannot get to the backside of the hole to remove the toothpick "tip" should I need to remove it. Also would be scared the obstruction could migrate further into the base of the Bulli and cause some sort of issue.
Thoughts anyone? I'm going to see if some sort of CE2 "ribbon" or even an O-ring could be used to seal off the holes.
If I can get this to stop leaking it would be a nice edition to my collection.
What I have noticed, also, is that the setup leaks into the cup on my Provari. I tried replacing only one of the wicks. Still same great flavor and vapor, but still the leaking.
In looking closely at the setup, the leaking is coming from the two tiny holes drilled into the 510 connector itself. When holding them closed I still get a pretty good draw. Has anyone seen this leaking behavior? I'd like to plug those holes up if I can to stop the leaking. I don't think I want to use the toothpick trick, since I cannot get to the backside of the hole to remove the toothpick "tip" should I need to remove it. Also would be scared the obstruction could migrate further into the base of the Bulli and cause some sort of issue.
Thoughts anyone? I'm going to see if some sort of CE2 "ribbon" or even an O-ring could be used to seal off the holes.
If I can get this to stop leaking it would be a nice edition to my collection.
I bought an ss a2 and a2-t(not the upgrade), neither leaks and the a2-t has a lot better hit(less airy). I think the leaking is strange I cant figure out how liquid is coming out the bottom of your a2-t. When I drip on my a2 I put 7-10 drops in it not always hitting the wick I've never had that problem. Seems to me its your setup, if I were you I'd watch the setup video again cause mine works great. Try not wrapping the ss mesh too tight and when you cut it down make sure you don't cover the end of the wick with the mesh by crimping it shut.
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I have a SS A2 with 801 threads that I got back in February. I used it for a little over a month, but it would keep losing it's hit after a day or two after putting a new coil in. I switched to CE2's, which had the same issue. Came to find out it was the juice I was using, as it also happened in an 801, 901 and 510 atties. I had a few CE2's and had bought a GP-SSR, which was working great, so my A2 sat for a few months. I decided to go back to my A2, after hearing about the A2-T. I'm using the tank mod found earlier in this thread, using the mouth piece from the CE2. This setup was working good before, other than the juice gunking up the coil. I did take the o-ring off my extra mouthpiece, and put it in between the base and the tube, as the juice would seep onto the knurled part of the base, even before I tried the tank mod. I am liking the hit from the A2 over the CE2, even though it is a bit airier.
Now here's the issue I'm curently running into. The juice is seeping out the bottom seam, where the 801 connector attaches to the base. This has me a bit concerned and perplexed. Concerned because I do not enjoy having to have a paper towel at hand to soak up the seepage, and don't feel comfortable putting into a pocket. Perplexed because it seems to seep more while I'm taking a drag, when there should be negative pressure, and wick back up into the seam after the drag.
I had it propped upright earlier and did have some juice oozing out the the air hole. And while I'm typing this, I haven't noticed it seeping out of the seam as much. Maybe that earlier oozing allowed the juice to wick up the seam, and now the heat while taking a drag has it seeping out of the seam.
I am interested the the A2-T, because it would be much easier to fill than the tank mod. But I am a bit hesitant at this point because of the current seeping situation, and from hearing about the issues Repent has run into.
Any thoughts from other A2 and A2-T users would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Al
Now here's the issue I'm curently running into. The juice is seeping out the bottom seam, where the 801 connector attaches to the base. This has me a bit concerned and perplexed. Concerned because I do not enjoy having to have a paper towel at hand to soak up the seepage, and don't feel comfortable putting into a pocket. Perplexed because it seems to seep more while I'm taking a drag, when there should be negative pressure, and wick back up into the seam after the drag.
I had it propped upright earlier and did have some juice oozing out the the air hole. And while I'm typing this, I haven't noticed it seeping out of the seam as much. Maybe that earlier oozing allowed the juice to wick up the seam, and now the heat while taking a drag has it seeping out of the seam.
I am interested the the A2-T, because it would be much easier to fill than the tank mod. But I am a bit hesitant at this point because of the current seeping situation, and from hearing about the issues Repent has run into.
Any thoughts from other A2 and A2-T users would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Al
hi Al,
It sounds like its wicking way to fast on your Setup, and maybe your A2 threads are dirty and liquid manage to rinse through the threads. Do you have the same problem if you just use the normal A2 Setup as Cetin shows in his video?
It sounds like its wicking way to fast on your Setup, and maybe your A2 threads are dirty and liquid manage to rinse through the threads. Do you have the same problem if you just use the normal A2 Setup as Cetin shows in his video?
I think I have the fast wicking under control now. I did have issues with juice seeping through the threads between the base and the tube from day one, hence the o-ring.
The current seeping is at the bottom, where the 801 connector attaches to the base. Although, it's been pretty clean this morning, which leads me to think that my previous assessment from last night regarding the oozing incident to be the cause of the current seeping.
Al
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