Can You Explain Temp Control Vaping to an Old Fart ?

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Letitia

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You can use stainless steel, not nickel or titanium. But if you are not using TC I don't see the point, kanthal's easier to work with anyway and if that's what you are used to, why use another type of wire?

Anna
SS just plain gives better flavor in tc or power mode IMO. I don't find ss much different than kanthal to work with.
 

stols001

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I've actually never vaped a kanthal coil, but I have heard that SS does taste better from various folks. I do find kanthal easier to coil (I used much of the kanthal that came with my coilmaster kit to practice coiling, so perhaps that's why). With that said, it's not like SS is that much more difficult, just a bit. I imagine any annoyance would wear off, because I coil it fine. COIL INSTALLATION? That is another matter, LOL. That's difficult (for me) period....

Anna
 

VictorViper

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What I figured. It's just that it's frustrating being satisfied getting what I'm gettin when everyone keeps talking about all this new fangled stuff. ;)

New fangled is just new, not always... fangled though. SS does have nice perks for mech use but as you're learning, it'll be a challenge to work with for your present atty and vape needs. SS 317 is apparently a touch more resistive, but I'd question if that bump would be enough to be viable.
 

mikepetro

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Haha. .. was way to early for me when I read that. ..

They really are claiming tc for a straightforward kanthal coil..

Cool! Wonder how they did it...bet everyone is wondering.. that would be a huge breakthrough if it really works..

They are using what is essentially a "ping" technology. Think of it as being similar to radar or sonar.

They send a small data packet through the coil and time how long it takes to make the trip. The theory being that as the wire gets hotter the trip will take longer.

By timing the trips they can predict "temperature change", but not actual temperature. You still have to give it a reference to use as a baseline. This is the weakness in this approach, it still comes down to a human establishing the baseline. If you are accurate when you set the baseline, then the mod is accurate, if you are off then the Mod will be off.

It is the only TC approach I have seen that can work with kanthal though. A very novel approach and very different from using TCRs like the rest of the industry.
 

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They are using what is essentially a "ping" technology. Think of it as being similar to radar or sonar.

They send a small data packet through the coil and time how long it takes to make the trip. The theory being that as the wire gets hotter the trip will take longer.

By timing the trips they can predict "temperature change", but not actual temperature. You still have to give it a reference to use as a baseline. This is the weakness in this approach, it still comes down to a human establishing the baseline. If you are accurate when you set the baseline, then the Mod is accurate, if you are off then the Mod will be off.

It is the only TC approach I have seen that can work with kanthal though. A very novel approach and very different from using TCRs like the rest of the industry.

Very interesting. .. that also explains the +26-29 degree difference also.. which is okay.. it's still awesome for Kanthal!
 

DPLongo22

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What I figured. It's just that it's frustrating being satisfied getting what I'm gettin when everyone keeps talking about all this new fangled stuff. ;)

Nah - it's easy, and sometimes kinda fun. Grab a wristband, a brew (if you want), and we'll peg the kids with BB guns until they get off our lawn.

;) :cool: :vapor:
 

ScottP

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They are using what is essentially a "ping" technology. Think of it as being similar to radar or sonar.

They send a small data packet through the coil and time how long it takes to make the trip. The theory being that as the wire gets hotter the trip will take longer.

By timing the trips they can predict "temperature change", but not actual temperature. You still have to give it a reference to use as a baseline. This is the weakness in this approach, it still comes down to a human establishing the baseline. If you are accurate when you set the baseline, then the Mod is accurate, if you are off then the Mod will be off.

It is the only TC approach I have seen that can work with kanthal though. A very novel approach and very different from using TCRs like the rest of the industry.

So if you move between indoors and outdoors frequently you will need to reset that baseline each time as the ambient air temperature changes. That would be too fiddly. Might not be bad for a stay at home device where the air temp is probably fairly stable.
 
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mikepetro

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So if you move between indoors and outdoors frequently you will need to reset that baseline each time as the ambient air temperature changes. That would be too fiddly. Might not be bad for a stay at home device where the air temp is probably fairly stable.
Never played with one, so I dont know if it is that sensitive or not. I do know that "ping" is how it works though. He got in a spat with PB about a year ago over it when PB kind of poo-pood it. PB did two vids and the whole thing "ping" was explained in the vids.
 

ScottP

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Never played with one, so I dont know if it is that sensitive or not. I do know that "ping" is how it works though. He got in a spat with PB about a year ago over it when PB kind of poo-pood it. PB did two vids and the whole thing "ping" was explained in the vids.

I'll have to go watch the vids. Around here in the summer there can easily be a 35 degree difference between indoor and outdoor temps. I am sure in more northern areas the winter differential could be even higher.

In fall, winter and spring (that's Dec, Jan, and Feb to residents of South East Texas) the differential would be fairly low.
 

mcclintock

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    So SS wire is pretty much out of the question with that atomizer.

    This is what my build looks like.
    5/6 wrap with 30ga kanthal (1.8 ohms) wrapped around 4 strands of 0.8mm silica string
    P1000882_zps4f926aug.jpg
    Actually I'm getting, on steam engine, it would be close to go from 7 wraps #30 Kanthal to 9 wraps #32 SS316. The #32 might even wrap on silica similarly. I did have in mind, talking about SS and mechs, more someone that would be using thick, slow Kanthal. There are those that claim to MTL using rather high power levels, but clearly you are not one of them.
     

    Coyote628

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    Personally, i have (1) never used TC mode and (2) im perfectly happy with variable wattage. I use different tanks and use different wattage with each. This probably wont solve your dilemma though. I just havent found the need to explore TC yet, but i felt compelled to say something.
     

    mikepetro

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    No Dilemma here, just curious...
    So, with a TC Mod, I could set up 1.4 ohms for 11 Watts, and keep the actual coil temperature below 400*F. Does that sound about right ?
    Not really, 1.4 ohms is really high for most TC wire. It could be done, but it would be a HUGE coil.

    Start with how you make you coil right now. Lets just say you make a 2mm coil with 7 wraps to get your 1.4 ohms.

    Make a 2mm coil with 7 wraps with your new TC wire and just dont worry about the ohms, then set the mod at 400 and dont worry about the watts either. Then see how you like it and tweak things from there.
     

    Coyote628

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    Not really, 1.4 ohms is really high for most TC wire. It could be done, but it would be a HUGE coil.

    Start with how you make you coil right now. Lets just say you make a 2mm coil with 7 wraps to get your 1.4 ohms.

    Make a 2mm coil with 7 wraps with your new TC wire and just dont worry about the ohms, then set the mod at 400 and dont worry about the watts either. Then see how you like it and tweak things from there.
    With that info, i might just experiment a little....
     

    mcclintock

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    No Dilemma here, just curious...
    So, with a TC Mod, I could set up 1.4 ohms for 11 Watts, and keep the actual coil temperature below 400*F. Does that sound about right ?

    Without saying a wire gauge, that coil could be tiny or the size of your fist. With a regulated mod with a known good Kanthal coil, you can just make the exact same coil just use SS wire, and use the exact same power setting. The resistance of a 1.4 ohm would drop to maybe .8, but otherwise no real change at all. Then you can switch to SS TC mode.

    Decent coils for 11W could use #30 or #32 wire ( e.g. Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators ).
     

    VictorViper

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    Without saying a wire gauge, that coil could be tiny or the size of your fist. With a regulated mod with a known good Kanthal coil, you can just make the exact same coil just use SS wire, and use the exact same power setting. The resistance of a 1.4 ohm would drop to maybe .8, but otherwise no real change at all. Then you can switch to SS TC mode.

    Decent coils for 11W could use #30 or #32 wire ( e.g. Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators ).

    I do seem to recall posts from the early days of TC, from low-power vapers, attesting to this. There's a leap of faith, I guess, for folks who never dipped into sub-ohm builds, and I get that. Especially for mech users, for whom coil resistance is everything. But it's true, you can basically build for your atty and then let the chip do its work. Basically...
     

    Beamslider

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    Just as a trial mod....
    Has anyone tried this eleafworld Pico Temp Control Mod ? For $35 it would be a cheap trial, unless of course the chip is trash to begin with....
    Works fine, can also use Arctic Fox firmware
     
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