Cthulhu RTA V2 (similar posts to the velocity rda)
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The wick ring won't come off of my single coil deck but I leave the wick ring on when I wick the dual coil deck. I use rayon wicking. I trim the wicks, put some juice on them and then tuck the tails down into the channels about halfway down. I wicked mine perfectly the first time, but when I rewicked tonight I started to get some dry hits. I hadn't put enough wick down into the channels, so I pushed it a little further down in there and not a dry hit since.
Got juice flow working guys the orings loosened and lubed up, so much better 63wats yum
I just finished with the Ultra-Sonic cleaning, twice @ 8 min. each time. I tried both b4 and after cleaning to get the wick rings off of both single and dual decks and no joy. No matter, No Biggie for me, I'll just do as you do. I'll have to wait till tomorrow to coil/wick the single deck up, my med's are kick'in in and I make too many mistakes when that happens. Till then I'll re-read the build posts and take notes downstairs with me to build with. Thanks Guy's for the knowledge.
I have a hard time unscrewing the cap for topfill, but i found something that works and won't mark up the metal...i use my ceramic tweezers, just the wide flat part that is reinforced by the handles...it has just enough friction to make it a piece of cake to remove the cap. just putting that out there in case anyone else has the same trouble...my hands ain't what they used to be, and maybe they never were 
I use the wick ring on the single coil deck I have not used the dual as of yet. Without the ring I was getting leaking top filling. I put it on and it stopped. I think the pressure release was moving the wicks around.
I have a hard time unscrewing the cap for topfill, but i found something that works and won't mark up the metal...i use my ceramic tweezers, just the wide flat part that is reinforced by the handles...it has just enough friction to make it a piece of cake to remove the cap. just putting that out there in case anyone else has the same trouble...my hands ain't what they used to be, and maybe they never were
If your having a hard time i would just take of the oring it makes it a lot easier and at least on mine does not cause and leaking
I'm wondering if anyone other than myself has taken a really good look at the frosted tank closely. What I can tell you firsthand is that the texture, the roughness of the edges, the visible cut marks on each end caused by the cutting blade, as well as the sound produced when tapping it are all consistent with polycarbonate. Also, the reflections made when flash is used while taking a close-up photo suggests it as well. Pyrex or regular glass do not exhibit these properties. Joshua may have initially confirmed the frosted tank is glass, however I respectfully have to disagree.
mine sounds and feels like glass. i have serial number 04xx
I took out my frosted tank and checked it out closely after reading your post. The frosted texturing is on the outside of the tank and when first tapping it with my fingernail it does sound like plastic. However, when I tapped it with a small precision screwdriver I hear the distinct tinging sound of tapping on glass, especially on the inside. I don't have any rough edges or swirl marks that I can see on mine. I believe it is glass. The best way to solve the question once and for all is to drop it on the floor to see if it shatters. You first.
Mine is glass maybe they changed it - (maybe these were the problematic glass tanks so the changed)
If your really want to make sure heat up a needle and see if the tank melts
If your really want to make sure heat up a needle and see if the tank melts
I took out my frosted tank and checked it out closely after reading your post. The frosted texturing is on the outside of the tank and when first tapping it with my fingernail it does sound like plastic. However, when I tapped it with a small precision screwdriver I hear the distinct tinging sound of tapping on glass, especially on the inside. I don't have any rough edges or swirl marks that I can see on mine. I believe it is glass. The best way to solve the question once and for all is to drop it on the floor to see if it shatters. You first.
Haha indeed. On that note, Smog Distro just posted the glass (clear) tank available for purchase separately (although no frosted available yet): https://smogdistro.com/collections/pre-order/products/cthulhu-rta-v2-glass-tank
I don't remember reading anything about problematic glass tanks. Sometimes the old memory doesn't work so good.
If I recall (again with the memory) the frosted glass tank was included as a bonus for pre-ordering. Is it possible they didn't intend to sell them separately, at least for a while?
Definitely a nice bonus if they intended it for pre-orders only. On SD's site the clear is available for pre-order but when you click the pull-down menu for the frosted option the pre-order button is currently greyed-out but I may choose to be the guinea pig and put the true test on the frosted when it becomes available for purchase separately.I don't remember reading anything about problematic glass tanks. Sometimes the old memory doesn't work so good.
If I recall (again with the memory) the frosted glass tank was included as a bonus for pre-ordering. Is it possible they didn't intend to sell them separately, at least for a while?
I can now verify that the frosted tank is glass. I heated up a piece of kanthal until it was red hot and touched it to the edge of the frosted tank...nothing happened. Just in case it cooled off before I was able to touch the tank I held the lighter to the edge of the tank and nothing happened. It did leave a dark smudge, but it wiped off easily with no blemish. Now we don't have to throw our tanks on the floor. 
I just received mine (finally). No machining or threading issues as far as I can tell. Mine is number 1930. Mine came from the last 200 batch from Smog since I was one of the last preorderers.
I didn't smell or see any machine oil, but I have it soaking in "LA's Totally Awesome Orange Cleaner" and so haven't had a chance to build/wick and try it yet. But from visual inspection it seems fine. The air flow control is really hard to slide back and forth but that is fine I suppose since I don't have a need to adjust such often. I am glad that there is a wick ring on both decks as opposed to just one that must be shared due to reports it can become unremovable. Mine are able to screw off - though I don't intend to ever take them off in any case. The juice ring seems to be easy enough to adjust - less force than I expected (good).
A suggestion for a possible V3: Consider a sliding top cap design like the Smok TFV4 - its a tad irksome unscrewing the top cap on this. Not the end of the world but it'd be pretty much perfect if it had the slide off capability of the TFV4.
I didn't smell or see any machine oil, but I have it soaking in "LA's Totally Awesome Orange Cleaner" and so haven't had a chance to build/wick and try it yet. But from visual inspection it seems fine. The air flow control is really hard to slide back and forth but that is fine I suppose since I don't have a need to adjust such often. I am glad that there is a wick ring on both decks as opposed to just one that must be shared due to reports it can become unremovable. Mine are able to screw off - though I don't intend to ever take them off in any case. The juice ring seems to be easy enough to adjust - less force than I expected (good).
A suggestion for a possible V3: Consider a sliding top cap design like the Smok TFV4 - its a tad irksome unscrewing the top cap on this. Not the end of the world but it'd be pretty much perfect if it had the slide off capability of the TFV4.
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I didn't see or smell any machine oil in mine either and it cleaned up nicely with no bad taste. My air flow control was totally stuck open at first and wouldn't budge the first day. I put some PG/VG on it and by the next day I was able to move it but it is still very snug. Several people have said that their air flow control was quite loose...you're the only one besides me who seems to have gotten an overly tight one. Like you, I don't have to adjust very often, so it doesn't matter much.
I'm wondering if anyone other than myself has taken a really good look at the frosted tank closely. What I can tell you firsthand is that the texture, the roughness of the edges, the visible cut marks on each end caused by the cutting blade, as well as the sound produced when tapping it are all consistent with polycarbonate. Also, the reflections made when flash is used while taking a close-up photo suggests it as well. Pyrex or regular glass do not exhibit these properties. Joshua may have initially confirmed the frosted tank is glass, however I respectfully have to disagree.
Try to scratch it with something sharp in an inconspicuous area. Of course glass is very hard to scratch and plastic isn't.
Topped off the tank last night before bed, leak-free still with the single deck.... Still pretty lacking flavor-wise but it's not the end of the world.... The adjustable 510 copper pin is pretty loose when not fully tightened down, kind of defeats the purpose of having it adjustable, I think....
Gonna keep with the single deck for a few days before trying out the dual deck....
Gonna keep with the single deck for a few days before trying out the dual deck....
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