I'm sexy and I know it
This is freaking awesome!! Nice work, Bap! Are you going to slot the top also?
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This is freaking awesome!! Nice work, Bap! Are you going to slot the top also?
Yeah I usually do, to give air if needed, plus it gives you something to hold the body when attaching the nut. But I don't have good way to do it, I just use a dremel and cut off disk and it never looks good and kind ruins the prettiness.
This is going to be used with genesis type atys so I'm not going ruin it
just yet.Bling...The pic doesn't do it justice...its a real shiny mirror finish....way more than the other two stainless items
I didn't have any of the brass pipe fitting to use for the nut so I just did up the knurled nut, it looks good but I will get the stuff and make a nut for it. The nut will be a lot easier to get tight, especially without a way to hold the body.
I usually cut the center positive pin flush also, but I left it long for now just incase.
On the other one I made, the plastic insulator got loose after a while (heat cycles probably) so this one is jb welded. Insulator to body as well as insulator to positive pin....If this comes loose or leaks I will poop.
I didn't have any of the brass pipe fitting to use for the nut so I just did up the knurled nut, it looks good but I will get the stuff and make a nut for it. The nut will be a lot easier to get tight, especially without a way to hold the body.
I usually cut the center positive pin flush also, but I left it long for now just incase.
On the other one I made, the plastic insulator got loose after a while (heat cycles probably) so this one is jb welded. Insulator to body as well as insulator to positive pin....If this comes loose or leaks I will poop.
Bling...The pic doesn't do it justice...its a real shiny mirror finish....way more than the other two stainless items
I didn't have any of the brass pipe fitting to use for the nut so I just did up the knurled nut, it looks good but I will get the stuff and make a nut for it. The nut will be a lot easier to get tight, especially without a way to hold the body.
I usually cut the center positive pin flush also, but I left it long for now just incase.
On the other one I made, the plastic insulator got loose after a while (heat cycles probably) so this one is jb welded. Insulator to body as well as insulator to positive pin....If this comes loose or leaks I will poop.
ok, ok I'm sold, I'll take ten of them please.
That is the slickest looking 510 i've ever seen. How many hours are in that bad boy?
With or without the first few I made and the others that didn't turn out
It's not to bad with the right tools. Stainless and brass are not nearly as easy on the lathe as aluminum.
But to turn the body, insulator, pin, and nut....glue/assemble....and polish....probably an hour or so plus waiting overnight for the jb weld to cure.
But that is after I have figured it out and made some tools to help and etc.
I know exactly what your talking about lol soooooo I'm guessing I should have said days/weeks/months from concept to 1st production.
couldn't find the brass fitting I used for the nut before (it was something I had) and effed up the one I tried to use
But onlinemetals.com has brass hex stock for like $5 a foot....but the coolest thing I found was .5" od x .26" id 316L seamless stainless tube. The tap size for the 7mm threads is 6mm or .256"....close enough for me and one less step, just tap that honey.
I have never ordered from there so I hope they don't rape on shipping....but I need a few different things and they have a good variety....acetal (delrin) and other plastics also....thinking about some ss hex for a connector.
But onlinemetals.com has brass hex stock for like $5 a foot....but the coolest thing I found was .5" od x .26" id 316L seamless stainless tube. The tap size for the 7mm threads is 6mm or .256"....close enough for me and one less step, just tap that honey.
I have never ordered from there so I hope they don't rape on shipping....but I need a few different things and they have a good variety....acetal (delrin) and other plastics also....thinking about some ss hex for a connector.
couldn't find the brass fitting I used for the nut before (it was something I had) and effed up the one I tried to use
But onlinemetals.com has brass hex stock for like $5 a foot....but the coolest thing I found was .5" od x .26" id 316L seamless stainless tube. The tap size for the 7mm threads is 6mm or .256"....close enough for me and one less step, just tap that honey.
I have never ordered from there so I hope they don't rape on shipping....but I need a few different things and they have a good variety....acetal (delrin) and other plastics also....thinking about some ss hex for a connector.
that tube sounds promising.. tap it, shave it down, and thread, Bobs your uncle Fannys you aunt! send me some!
Bap, they take smaller orders and make cuts too. Shipping (domestic) is like $5 for a decent chunk of metal. I've had good experiences with them and been fortunate enough to do pick-ups from their location and waive the shipping. They are very convenient in the summertime for me. Once they didn't have a size of brass tube in stock that I had ordered, but they tracked it down in Ohio and I only paid the $5 shipping and waited 3 extra days.
couldn't find the brass fitting I used for the nut before (it was something I had) and effed up the one I tried to use
But onlinemetals.com has brass hex stock for like $5 a foot....but the coolest thing I found was .5" od x .26" id 316L seamless stainless tube. The tap size for the 7mm threads is 6mm or .256"....close enough for me and one less step, just tap that honey.
I have never ordered from there so I hope they don't rape on shipping....but I need a few different things and they have a good variety....acetal (delrin) and other plastics also....thinking about some ss hex for a connector.
I have used OnLineMetals quite a bit. Always been happy with them. Like them better then speedymetals. If you create a account and add your shipping address it will give you a shipping charge estimate before placing a order.
Thanks, the positive feedback for onlinemetals is great to hear!
My shipping isn't horrible for what a have in my cart (but not $5 ). I didn't set up an account until after I had my cart, so I didn't see where shipping started, but it doesn't change very much now for additional items.
My shipping isn't horrible for what a have in my cart (but not $5
). I didn't set up an account until after I had my cart, so I didn't see where shipping started, but it doesn't change very much now for additional items.Removing the pcb and folding over the ends will get another 0.25" or so. I'm going to use one of the copper battery legs of a disposable camera to connect the cells and run the wires down the center of the cells underneath the copper pieces.
Bap, I AM going to get a lathe (damnit) and I also have the HiTorque (Sieg SC4) on my short list. But, have you considered the Grizzly G0516? It's a almost exactly the same price (actually about $50 less delivered from Amazon) and is a 10" X 22" Sieg C6-based unit (actually an M6...but more on that later). It has a 1 year warranty instead of 30 days, 1 1/8" more swing over bed, 1 3/8" more swing over saddle, 5.6" more distance between centers, 3.1" more cross-slide travel, 1 1/4" more compound travel, same Morse tapers on head and tailstock, and a 3/4" 10 TPI lead screw instead of an unknown diameter 2mm thread. Like the HiTorque, it is feed reversible so it can do left-hand threads and weighs 320 lbs (lathe only) which is 113lbs more than the HT.
It also comes with a 1/2" Jacobs chuck, a 5" 3-jaw chuck (1" bigger than the HT), a 5" 4-jaw chuck (not included with the HT), an 8 1/2" face plate (also not included with the HT), and, get this, it comes with a quick-change collet set and a quick-change tool post!
But here's the real kicker; it comes with a mini mill (thus the M6)!! The included X2 mini mill can be bolted to the lathe to share the lathe bed or, for $200 (currently on sale for $180), you can get a separate table from LMS to make it a stand-alone mill!!
Note that the threads list on the website and in the manual are pitifully minimized. I actually calculated all the possible threads with the included change gears and there really isn't anything standard that you can't do from 3.5 TPI to 180 TPI (if you would dare to attempt 180 on a lathe of that type). Also, there are several more longitudinal feed rates that can be achieved than the two listed.
On the down side, the Grizzly does not have the power cross feed like the HT has and it is not variable speed like the HT (I know; but for about $300, you can retrofit a 3-phase motor and a VFD). The Grizzly is, of course, bigger...if you have a space issue.
It also comes with a 1/2" Jacobs chuck, a 5" 3-jaw chuck (1" bigger than the HT), a 5" 4-jaw chuck (not included with the HT), an 8 1/2" face plate (also not included with the HT), and, get this, it comes with a quick-change collet set and a quick-change tool post!
But here's the real kicker; it comes with a mini mill (thus the M6)!! The included X2 mini mill can be bolted to the lathe to share the lathe bed or, for $200 (currently on sale for $180), you can get a separate table from LMS to make it a stand-alone mill!!
Note that the threads list on the website and in the manual are pitifully minimized. I actually calculated all the possible threads with the included change gears and there really isn't anything standard that you can't do from 3.5 TPI to 180 TPI (if you would dare to attempt 180 on a lathe of that type). Also, there are several more longitudinal feed rates that can be achieved than the two listed.
On the down side, the Grizzly does not have the power cross feed like the HT has and it is not variable speed like the HT (I know; but for about $300, you can retrofit a 3-phase motor and a VFD). The Grizzly is, of course, bigger...if you have a space issue.
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It's been a while since I shopped but I remember people liking the grizzly.
But if you want a really good combo machine go with the Smithy Midas 1220 LTD It has a good size capacity, 1.03" spindle bore and 1.16" chuck through hole, power X & Y, decent tool pack, etc for $2230 and they offer financing. I know a couple people who have had previous Smithy models and loved them.
The Smithy is probably my number one, but the LMS HiTorque is well put together machine with upgrades like motor, power cross feed, etc over the standard Sieg. The thing I like best about the Smithy over the HiTorque (as far as lathe goes) is the 1" capacity, then you have the mill/drill capability.
So I have been bitten by steampunk bug....hardcore....asdaq suggested a google image search for steampunk usb I lost an hour before I knew it.
Here are a few steampunk images of design ideas that I thought could be incorporated with a DNA20 mod....and the last image is my new plastic enclosure (made some changes around the buttons)
Here are a few steampunk images of design ideas that I thought could be incorporated with a DNA20 mod....and the last image is my new plastic enclosure (made some changes around the buttons)
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