DUD builds
- Thread starter Nurzrachit
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Thanks, got 10 already for the wick/coil lab tests, but I will get some more.
@Nurzrachit That's awesome! That is the only method that I have yet to try...I have 4 drill bit cases and the one that I need is missing from all of them
I'm also surprised that the heat doesn't melt that syringe tip.
I am a little surprised too, but I'm keeping a close eye on it. So far it seems to be holding resistance through the day. the coil is now getting seasoned, this thing is a juice .....! i have already took out 3 tanks full in a couple of hours. Now some of that was from strait mouth tokin' without inhale to prime it up. redfox, of note, I have a jewelers screwdriver that fits in the wick hole as well, I guess anything that is cylindrical and small enough to go into wick hole should work. Good luck, get your beast on!
Here is a 5 sec burn on my 10 wrap 28g on 70mm of tight rolled 500 mesh no center hole 2.1 ohms 4v. Never needs tipping and would drain the whole tank on one burn if the PV could handle it. For more info on these super wicks go to the myth breaker thread..http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html Clic on pic for video.
I don't know, it's real strange. After a dry burn the resistance was back up to 2.5, however when I hit it with the multimeter it reads 2.5, then drops down to around maybe 1.8. After some use, the multimeter consistently reads aprox 1.5. I don't think there's any shorting because all my coils light up very evenly.
I also don't think it's a problem with the mulitmeter as with the "fresh" coil the PV will take some warm up time before it starts vaping, but once the res has dropped down I get vapor as soon as I press the go button.
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This happens to me as well even when I'm using a silica wick. It seems that the heating wire (kanthal) changes resistance depending on temperature or that my coil connections are erratic (probably because of metal expansion/contraction due to heating). A third possibility would be the ohm-meter I'm using. However, there's still better stability when I use a non-conductive wick (silica/cotton) compared to an oxidized stainless steel mesh wick.
when a coil lights up red in a dry burn or even a hot spot it can kinda burn through the oxidation layer of the SS wick and get to some of the conductive SS. I know it's kinda hard to picture as we are talking about a near microscopic segment of a wick that is difficult to get just right but by the numbers, the only logical/scientific/electrical way that the coil would drop that far in resistance is because there is a SHORTer path or path of least resistance for the current to take........
Another thing, if one or more of yer coils are really really close to one another they could be in slight contact that could create a "coil to coil short" as opposed to a coil/wick short.....this could also explain a drop that far in resistance. I turuly don't believe that expansion/contraction can physically produce a 1+ohm change in a coil. That would be like shrinking or expanding the coil by a few millimeters....
This might not be a totally bad thing if you like or are shooting for a lower resistance but I personally like stable consistancy instead of the random "what's the coil gonna do now" uncertainty.
These are just my opinions on the matter based off of my experiences fighting coils, anyone please correct my electronics logic if it is incorrect.
Another thing, if one or more of yer coils are really really close to one another they could be in slight contact that could create a "coil to coil short" as opposed to a coil/wick short.....this could also explain a drop that far in resistance. I turuly don't believe that expansion/contraction can physically produce a 1+ohm change in a coil. That would be like shrinking or expanding the coil by a few millimeters....
This might not be a totally bad thing if you like or are shooting for a lower resistance but I personally like stable consistancy instead of the random "what's the coil gonna do now" uncertainty.
These are just my opinions on the matter based off of my experiences fighting coils, anyone please correct my electronics logic if it is incorrect.
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Here is a 5 sec burn on my 10 wrap 28g on 70mm of tight rolled 500 mesh no center hole 2.1 ohms 4v. Never needs tipping and would drain the whole tank on one burn if the PV could handle it. For more info on these super wicks go to the myth breaker thread..http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/330407-500-ss-mesh.html Clic on pic for video.
Now thats what I'm talkin about, gonna check out that thread, and order some 500ss. Where did you get the 28G Kanthal?
I've gotten everything that I have from ebay. I even found some 500 mesh, but The Mesh Company is a much better deal. I'll get some eventually.
Got my Dud. Overall impression is that it is pretty nice. Small, and well made. Oxidized my SS and rolled a wick, built a 4 wrap coil using the materials that came with.
First fire - nothing. Discovered it was the center post not quite flush with the threads. Fixed that and fired up right away. No shorts, which amazed me as this was my first wick and coil.
I am getting an ohm reading of 1.5 between the posts. Maybe a bit low. The juice I am using tastes better around 2ohms. I guess I need one or two more coils? Or will the ohms go up after a while? Right now the juice has much less flavor than with an regualar cartomizer.
First fire - nothing. Discovered it was the center post not quite flush with the threads. Fixed that and fired up right away. No shorts, which amazed me as this was my first wick and coil.
I am getting an ohm reading of 1.5 between the posts. Maybe a bit low. The juice I am using tastes better around 2ohms. I guess I need one or two more coils? Or will the ohms go up after a while? Right now the juice has much less flavor than with an regualar cartomizer.
No need, you just need a clear tube. I haven't received mine yet but I've already prefabricated 3 clear syringe tubes based on the measured dimensions (25mm length).
And a dip stick would be...not ghetto?
Well, the dipstick isn't front and center. From what I have seen of the syringe mods they start to lose their markings, and get very cloudy, etc.
I also worry about the integrity of the modification, in other words, a bit to much torque in the pocket or something, and would they flex and allow juice to spill out?
A dip stick of some sort would be able to sit in you pocket and when you want to check, you check, otherwise not visible. Or a clear tank of some sort - other than the soft-ish plastic from a syringe.
I was just being a doofus. I actually said the same thing to my friend after I got mine working for a while, ha. Yeah, there will be clear tank sections available soon from the merchants who sold these. I don't know anything more about them other than them not being glass.
There are lots of tanks that use plastic, and I can't see them being more problematic than the standard metal one in terms of flex/torque, but I can see why you'd have reservations about the syringe mods for that reason and reasons of aesthetics. The only real problem will be whether or not they'll be of a type of plastic than can withstand cinnamon/citrus-y eliquids.
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