E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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. I'll let you know how the translucent ones are tomorrow
Please do, and pics
I think a milky white translucent one would be sweet.
Thanks you two. I'll order a few different delrin ones and try them out.
Any preference between the shorties and the longer ones?
Niiiiice. That white one looks slick. Hm...an E2 might looks slick like that too
EDIT: Banjo - the longer ones mean less chance of "spitting" from an atty or filler carto, and less heat transfer. But since I'm an eGo user...I think a shorter one would be good on XL's for the aesthetics. Yeah. I'm vain about my PV
EDIT: Banjo - the longer ones mean less chance of "spitting" from an atty or filler carto, and less heat transfer. But since I'm an eGo user...I think a shorter one would be good on XL's for the aesthetics. Yeah. I'm vain about my PV
Hehe I'll post a pic of them on an E2 when they come. Banjo, I had a black delrin the same size as the purple aluminium on the right and I liked it OK, personal preference I just like the little black one on the left more.
I have been cleaning the 808d and the cup does have a rubber sleeve
I also found out that it has 6 loops, the coild does, but the 2 on the edge are against the cup and refuse to glow as bright.
So I'm trying to carefully move them away from the cup, I got one so far, and so 5 will glow good now... working on #6 now.
This finding could also have something to do with my thinking that it made my vgos seem weak with my winston peg.
Something else is that without all 6 cylinders working, the 2 on the edges caused char marks on the wick just outside the cup, and that could possibly affect the wicking action.
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Ok, Got all 6 cylinders to glow orange, all the same now, but I notice a mark on the cup, I hope it's not a fracture.
Poor cup. This is an r4 too, I could feel the rubber sleeve with with a pin.
I haven't been able to clean the charred spots at the slits though.
I also found out that it has 6 loops, the coild does, but the 2 on the edge are against the cup and refuse to glow as bright.
So I'm trying to carefully move them away from the cup, I got one so far, and so 5 will glow good now... working on #6 now.
This finding could also have something to do with my thinking that it made my vgos seem weak with my winston peg.
Something else is that without all 6 cylinders working, the 2 on the edges caused char marks on the wick just outside the cup, and that could possibly affect the wicking action.
-----
Ok, Got all 6 cylinders to glow orange, all the same now, but I notice a mark on the cup, I hope it's not a fracture.
Poor cup. This is an r4 too, I could feel the rubber sleeve with with a pin.
I haven't been able to clean the charred spots at the slits though.
WOW! That was it, all 6 cylinders were just not firing the same.
I put it back together, and it's vaping great!!
The cup lid would not behave, so it's upside down with the o-ring left out of the equation, but it's vaping great now.
I'll just have to remember that this one has an upside down cup lid.
The cup lids are still way behind in innovation. Maybe the part that goes between the cup and carto needs to be either thinner, or even angled, I mean in this day and age it should be possible to make that part angled, so that it goes in around the cup evenly, like a wedge.
I think that before, when the 2 outer loops were right against the cup, the cup was robbing some of the vaporization energy from the system, my vgo now seems to be working ok once again
I put it back together, and it's vaping great!!
The cup lid would not behave, so it's upside down with the o-ring left out of the equation, but it's vaping great now.
I'll just have to remember that this one has an upside down cup lid.
The cup lids are still way behind in innovation. Maybe the part that goes between the cup and carto needs to be either thinner, or even angled, I mean in this day and age it should be possible to make that part angled, so that it goes in around the cup evenly, like a wedge.
I think that before, when the 2 outer loops were right against the cup, the cup was robbing some of the vaporization energy from the system, my vgo now seems to be working ok once again
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BR r here. I just then came back in here for another refill and saw you were having a panic attack. I started not to say anything, but didn't want your feel bad to hang out any further.
Still vaping on something with 510 threads and a 3Ω resistance. Ain't got no idee what version it is. I'll let that be a surprise when I pull out the filler ring and look inside. So far tested on all voltage between 2.8 and 4.2. Okay on everything up to 3.7 volts. It vapes the reservoir dry at 2.8 volts, 3.1 volts and 3.7 volts. When running dry, taste does not change until vapor drops off. No complaints so far.
From what happened to mine, I would say make them glow before you fill them, and make sure all loops glow the same and the 2 outer loops are not up against the cup, it did make a difference on mine.
Godd luck putting the lid back on though, I can't, and got a leak already while typing the previous post.
I cleaned it, and I hope it doesn't keep leaking anymore.
Did you place the middle ring up against the cup flat side down?
Outdoors, his parents own a dairy farm, lots of fields for miles
Wow, you shoot your dairy cows out there. No wonder you moved from Oz. We only milk ours. hahahah
god knows how your treating that poor e2 vjohn, ive been using the same one for 3 days refilled countless times and no inner plug and not a drip leaked.
Good enough to get by. A bit better on lower voltages. I vaped it for one filling at that voltage strictly for testing, but won't be using it that way. I get more than enough vapor at 2.8 volts. I guess the best word I can use about it at that voltage would be that it is softer. My Hello battery will be a good walk around.
No, the lid is upside down now and there's no room for the o-ring.
Wow, you shoot your dairy cows out there. No wonder you moved from Oz. We only milk ours. hahahah
Maybe that's how they get the milk out.
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