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Chemfatale

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is there any advantage of the E2 cartomier over the eGo mega cartomizers>

The eGo mega cartomizers hold about 1.8 ml of e-juice. How much do the E2 cartos hold?

I was drawn to the mega eGo for it's 900mA long battery life, the mega eGo cylinder atty/cart combo that hold over 2 ml of juice and the mega eGo cartos that hold a little less than 2 ml.

I like the idea of having a single battery and a couple carts or cartos lasting me all day and a simple swithc of the battery and swith of the cart or carto at night.

I understand the E2's do not have any filler material, but do they have a wick?

If anyone has tried the mega eGo atty/cart combo, the mega eGo carto and the E2 carto on an eGo I would really appreciate any comparisons and pros and cons of the different options.
 

K24A3

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Any carto that has filler can have bad airflow and become clogged over time.

These new CE2 carto's have no filler so air draw is always excellent and they last much longer than normal carto's.

Basically there is a reservoir that holds the juice, a wick that 'soaks up' the juice into the Cup, where the element heats the wick section in the Cup.

The XL ones hold almost 2ml of juice.
 

br5495

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I actually tried a 3.4v device and it was still burnt after 2 seconds, so maybe I'll grab a 3v KR808 and give that a try. The problem is that some flavors burn too easily (especially fruits), so a longer but lower voltage vape should do the trick.

The sweetness of my tobacco flavor is what a like, and it doesn't take much to destroy that part of the taste. Perhaps we are trying to preserve the same thing. I say that because VG is very sweet, so it has to be part of our flavor. Is this sweetness easily lost at a higher temperature? I don't know. Some people do not like a sweet taste. Is that why they vape at a higher voltage? I don't know that either. All I know is that I have to keep lowering the voltage or power until my sweet spot is there.
 

BanjoMan

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I don't think we need to go re-inventing the wheel here. My only problem with the XL version is that it tends to leak juice into the cup area if laid on it's side for any length of time (I haven't noticed this with the shorter M-series cartos yet). My guess is that the filler ring was supposed to prevent this by sealing over the cup, but I still had the problem with an unaltered 808D XL.

Just throwing this out there, but what if they added a little more wick material? It would be a little slower to refill completely, but the extra wick might "hold" more of the loose liquid and keep it from flowing back towards the cup when it's laid on its' side.
 

br5495

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Yeah but I don't want anyone taking a picture of me over the sink with my head thrown back sucking the water out of my cartos, either. :p Besides, what if I swallow by mistake? (yuck!)

Using your method I still have to syringe fill. That's one of the things I'm trying to get away from.
I know what I did was ridiculous, but you're trying to change the subject. The subject was about the impossibility of getting the water out.

About the yuck. The cleaning process I used worked VERY well. So well in fact, that the water had the EXACT taste of the tap. So ok, my city water would have been a bit yucky if I had swallowed it.

About the syringe. My method does not use a syringe, and it works better than your method. My test with the filler ring in place used a syringe.

My post was the result of a test to find out if the nasty primer in a cartridge could be cleaned out without removing the filler ring. The test was also to find out if the water could be removed afterward. Now I know that it is possible.

Was the test a bit ridiculous? Yes. Will I do it again? No, I have already run that test. Will I run more tests with the filler ring installed? Yes. Should I post those results here? I'll let you answer that question.
 

v1John

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Chemfatele,

I really did not like the ego super cartos, and yes, I tried those as well as the ce2.

The plastic ego super cartos are twice as expensive, that's the worst part. If they were $5 for 5, I would still be using them, and would not be struggling to make them perform for a couple days.

and for almost $2.80 a piece, they still wouldn't let you see and know the status of your coil,

you have to break it to fill it or re-fill it,

it still has filler, and sometimes I wondered if I started burning it,

when I refilled it, it always leaked at the bottom, unless I barely refilled it,

after refilling, I had a hard time knowing if the vapor reduction/inconsistency was due to barely refilling, or old filler problems, or a combination

the threads were harder to clean, because of the shape of the carto,

the carto was as big as an electronic cigar, not an electronic cigarette, the e2 you can use in either the vgos and egos as well as e-'cigarettes'
 
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br5495

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while i agree with you i cant be happy with a small thin ecig until they make them last all day long, now i showed a 900 mah one a while back but im not sure of the build, i should buy it to try it and shut my mouth.
I saw your post on that one. A battery like that seems almost impossible. If it is true, then a whole bunch of us will want one.
 

naviathan

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I'm having similar issues as everyone else with the new XL (haven't tried the shorter ones yet). With the filler ring all the way seated I get a dry sometimes burnt vape every time. If I pull the seal up some to alleviate pressure on the wick it starts to leak when on it's side. In examining the seal and the cup, the seal when fully seated goes over the wick where it enters the cup. It appears to be just enough to slow the wicking down to almost nothing. If I pull it up slightly it wicks better, but then leaks everywhere. I even tried thinning my juice down so it would work better, but that just made the burnt taste worse. It'll be thick but I'm going to try eliminating the water from my VG mix entirely and see what it does.
 

BanjoMan

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I know what I did was ridiculous, but you're trying to change the subject. The subject was about the impossibility of getting the water out.

About the yuck. The cleaning process I used worked VERY well. So well in fact, that the water had the EXACT taste of the tap. So ok, my city water would have been a bit yucky if I had swallowed it.

About the syringe. My method does not use a syringe, and it works better than your method. My test with the filler ring in place used a syringe.

My post was the result of a test to find out if the nasty primer in a cartridge could be cleaned out without removing the filler ring. The test was also to find out if the water could be removed afterward. Now I know that it is possible.

Was the test a bit ridiculous? Yes. Will I do it again? No, I have already run that test. Will I run more tests with the filler ring installed? Yes. Should I post those results here? I'll let you answer that question.

I was just kidding you about the "sucking carto" thing. Sorry, but the mental image was too funny. By all means continue to test and post your results, but:

"About the syringe. My method does not use a syringe, and it works better than your method. My test with the filler ring in place used a syringe". I went back and re-read your original post. Maybe I'm mis-reading or not understanding correctly. Before I first used my XL's I did a quick rinse and dry burned the primer out with the filler ring in place. The dry burn took a little extra time but it worked fine.

Now, when it comes to cleaning these after they've been refilled a number of times and the wick under the coil is all black and yucky, that's what I'm talking about. Doing multiple rinses and dry burns to clean the carto (which is what I have to do with mine) is MUCH harder with the filler ring in place. It may be possible to remove most of the water by sucking it out by mouth, but at some point you're still going to have to pull out your syringe to refill it. My method might not be perfect but removing the filler ring speeds up the cleaning process greatly (at least for me).

If I find that leaving the filler ring out causes too much juice to make its' way down into the cup while laying on its' side, I might try a "hybrid" approach: Use the syringe to refill with the filler ring in place, but wrestle it out and back every time I clean. It'll be a pain, but imo it's the only practical and efficient way to rinse and burn these things.

Anyways, sorry if I ruffled your feathers... it wasn't my intention. (well yes it was, but in a GOOD way). :D
 

v1John

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If you're suggesting that the wick goes through holes in the cup in lieu of the slits..... that would make it very difficult to build/assemble the unit.

Ok, then just make the wide slots narrow again please, and keep a large wick hole at the bottom of the new, narrow slits.



nav, yeah, cut the water off, lol.
it helps to hear reviews when people use normal e-liquids, but glad to hear you had added water, at least you told us.

water also has a higher temperature requirement

water can confuse many readers, because it's so easy and convenient to get the wrong water and wouldn't that affect resistivity or conductivity?
 
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br5495

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..............., i also stopped filling the leaky ones to the brim and those dont leak now, i stop at the base of the cup.
I believe we both discovered this with the earlier E2's. Except for testing, I eventually began doing that with all of them, including the XL's. However, I have two that will leak about half of the juice out unless a filler ring or substitute is put back in place.
 

br5495

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I was just kidding you about the "sucking carto" thing. Sorry, but the mental image was too funny. By all means continue to test and post your results, but:

"About the syringe. My method does not use a syringe, and it works better than your method. My test with the filler ring in place used a syringe". I went back and re-read your original post. Maybe I'm mis-reading or not understanding correctly. Before I first used my XL's I did a quick rinse and dry burned the primer out with the filler ring in place. The dry burn took a little extra time but it worked fine.

Now, when it comes to cleaning these after they've been refilled a number of times and the wick under the coil is all black and yucky, that's what I'm talking about. Doing multiple rinses and dry burns to clean the carto (which is what I have to do with mine) is MUCH harder with the filler ring in place. It may be possible to remove most of the water by sucking it out by mouth, but at some point you're still going to have to pull out your syringe to refill it. My method might not be perfect but removing the filler ring speeds up the cleaning process greatly (at least for me).

If I find that leaving the filler ring out causes too much juice to make its' way down into the cup while laying on its' side, I might try a "hybrid" approach: Use the syringe to refill with the filler ring in place, but wrestle it out and back every time I clean. It'll be a pain, but imo it's the only practical and efficient way to rinse and burn these things.

Anyways, sorry if I ruffled your feathers... it wasn't my intention. (well yes it was, but in a GOOD way). :D
No, my friend. You did not ruffle my feathers. I'm trying to get over to you that this was a test of an XL just like it came out of the box. I'm not about to operate one like this from here on out. I think the primer juice and the whole filling system is ridiculous from the get-go, and the test should indicate that. Obviously you though so, and I expect a few more people thought so too. Maybe the people in China who read this thread will think so too.

Edit - Future tests may indicate how ridiculous it is to clean the crud out with the filler ring still in place.
 
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badkolo

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The more i look at the cup in action the more I agree that the slits need to be closed at the top and only have sufficient room for the wick with a decent sized hole.
plus sealing the cup to the stem. I just dont know if that will impede or slow down production becuase then they will have to get the wick through the hole and someone mentioned that might not be feasable.

At the moment those are my only gripes, fix the leak, remove the primer and adjust the cups slits, while making them wide was what we asked for , we asked for a wider slit for the wick , that didnt mean open the whole slit section so juice can seep in faster. the original design sufficated the wick, this design has the wick to free.

also the inner plug needs a wider airhole.
 

br5495

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I'm having similar issues as everyone else with the new XL (haven't tried the shorter ones yet). With the filler ring all the way seated I get a dry sometimes burnt vape every time. If I pull the seal up some to alleviate pressure on the wick it starts to leak when on it's side. In examining the seal and the cup, the seal when fully seated goes over the wick where it enters the cup. It appears to be just enough to slow the wicking down to almost nothing. If I pull it up slightly it wicks better, but then leaks everywhere. I even tried thinning my juice down so it would work better, but that just made the burnt taste worse. It'll be thick but I'm going to try eliminating the water from my VG mix entirely and see what it does.
Yep. You have a lemon, heheh. Pull another one out of the box and try it.

On my lemon, I removed the filler ring and filled the reservoir up to the bottom of the cup. Then centered the cup and put the ring back in upside down. In some cases, it was necessary to remove the battery to get the cup to stay centered. That was with my lemon. Lord only knows what you will have to do with yours.
 

K24A3

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The sweetness of my tobacco flavor is what a like, and it doesn't take much to destroy that part of the taste. Perhaps we are trying to preserve the same thing. I say that because VG is very sweet, so it has to be part of our flavor. Is this sweetness easily lost at a higher temperature? I don't know. Some people do not like a sweet taste. Is that why they vape at a higher voltage? I don't know that either. All I know is that I have to keep lowering the voltage or power until my sweet spot is there.

I've wandered that too, why do people insist on vaping at such high voltage? Surely it ruins the flavor of the juice. Perhaps they do it to get a massive TH. Either way, these CE2 carto's perform very well at 3.x volts. There is no need to go higher imo.
 

K24A3

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v1john, here's a pic of an XL KR808D.

badkolo, notice how large the gap is in the Slit area where the wick runs through (as you mentioned a moment ago). I'm almost convinced this is causing the leak in my carto's.

Image1.jpg
 
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