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v1John

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v1john, here's a pic of an XL KR808D.

badkolo, notice how large the gap is in the Slit area where the wick runs through (as you mentioned a moment ago). I'm almost convinced this is causing the leak in my carto's.

View attachment 17997

Maybe now there is room to add another strand of wick! (?)
[Bad, do you still have the working frame? Im still wondering how an additional wick strand would perform.]


...Now I need a pic of the connector end as well please, looking at it directly straight (not at an angle), do you have one or a link?
 

v1John

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...I just dont know if that will impede or slow down production becuase then they will have to get the wick through the hole and someone mentioned that might not be feasable.....

Well if their capacity goes from 30,000 a day down to 20,000 a day that should not be a problem, but it could mean that the $1.10 cartos would become the ultimate, perfected, $2.00 cartos. I would definitely buy $10 5pks, heck, I was paying about that much for the old filler cartos, lol

But even if the slits are very narrow except at the wick hole it's possible that it would be sufficiently better. What about blue foam or old-carto filler material, could you stuff it around the top half of the cup and cover the slots? Try not to wad too much too tightly, or it may bother the wick. Then put the middle ring and the big mouthpiece back on. I wonder if it would leak this way when you lay the carto flat on the table for a while?
 
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K24A3

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No probs v1. Pic of the XL KR808D-1 thread end~

Image2.jpg
 

badkolo

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when i used the original design revision 1, it had no lekaing issue, those had no slits, some where real good becuase there was enough room for the wick but it did not leak and those used the same type of innerplug.

so maybe no new special innerplug is needed and they just need to close the slits but leave the right amount of room for the wick to go into the cup.
 

br5495

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The more i look at the cup in action the more I agree that the slits need to be closed at the top and only have sufficient room for the wick with a decent sized hole.
The slot will never be suitable, bad. Right now, some of them seem to be doing a fair job. But then, some do not wick enough and some wick too much, and they all have the same slot. The same thing was happening with some of the plastic cup versions. Therefore, something else is needed to to fix the situation. Don't ask me what. I don't work here, heheh.
 

Turbo

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Probably so 'scottbee'. Have you had any leaking issues w/ yours? Curious to hear your thoughts if so.


seal the stem where the cup sits on the stem airhole, that super important. thats being done for r4.
remove the primer, they are steaming all the wicks to a super clean state so thats done for R4.

and maybe try this plug design vjohn and I have mentioned, it could solve many issues but it could cause another one and that is lower the amount of juice a regular sized e2 can hold since the cup area will now be taken by the new plug, but if it solves the issue then so be it.

I tested many e2's cut in half and guys im not seeing any leaking coming form the bottom of the e2 where the stem meets the base, im seeing leaking occur at the top and it happens when we fill it up to the brim. so thats what needs to be solved.

How are they going to seal the stem? I know the plastics had silicon but that was eliminated due to smell/taste issues.



Banjo: How is the regular silicon ring in replacement of the filler ring doing? Leaking yet?


BTW 'bad', here's the 900mAh e-cig- Greencig G400. Seems like LeCig is out but Nhaler also carries it for slightly more..

Oh, I did get my samples in today, thanks! I haven't had the chance to run to the PO but soon will.
 

badkolo

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Ok, I have some New Fresh news. lol

I have been informed that they have fixed the primer issue and Revision 4 will be primer FREE.(no primer).
I was also informed that the main leaking from the stem where the cup sits on the airflow stem HAS BEEN FIXED and tested repeatedly.

Now this fix solved that issue but they are aware of the second leak at the slits and wick of the cup. They are now making new molds with just a wick slot enough for the wick and it wont be open fully like it is now. There is no way to be certaain if that will completly solve that specific issue but they are hoping it will alleviate most of it.

Once they do additional tests on the new mold they will send out samples. They will continue to perfect them they said but to be aware prices might need to be raised.

Turbo:: it wasnt the sealant that smelled it was the bad glue, they might be using silicone to seal it im not sure. I was just told that, that issue has been tested and fixed.
 
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Scottbee

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Ok, I have some New Fresh news. lol


Now this fix solved that issue but they are aware of the second leak at the slits and wick of the cup. They are now making new molds with just a wick slot enough for the wick and it wont be open fully like it is now. There is no way to be certaain if that will completly solve that specific issue but they are hoping it will alleviate most of it.

Wow... I really wish they hadn't done that. But then again, we may never see units based on the new mold. <*shrug*> I'm just a consumer.

And no Turbo.. I personally haven't experienced any "leaking" from my units.
 

ChuckB

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I saw this morning that Clouds of Vapor had them back in stock and now the carry the regular 510s in steel. Picked up both 510 regulars and XL. I am anxious to start playing with the ceramics as I've really liked the plastic ones so far.

The primer is the only thing that bothers me. I see everyone is rinsing it out. Has anyone tried doing a short soak in PGA? That seems to me would be about the quickest and would dry relatively fast too.
 

v1John

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No probs v1. Pic of the XL KR808D-1 thread end~

View attachment 17998

Thanks, ok here are some more suggestions, and this will help avoid the microscopic filler
holes and messing with syringes.



Here on top, the top of the carto has a metal cap-like lid that you can rotate 90 degrees or so, with a screwdriver, revealing the two large filler holes. All these pictures show the top view of the top (mouth-end) of the carto, with the white mouthpiece removed:

1z670i0.jpg


__________________

Then, here is an alternate suggestion. On this one, the cap needs to be fully unscrewed and removed. I like the first idea above better though, because this metal top really should be permanently pressure-fitted to stabilize the cup beneath it real well. Here below, it doesn't just turn 90 or 180 degrees, it's unfortunately fully removed.

The good thing about this idea below is that you may be able to plug the holes with the small silicone nail-like plugs from the old cartos, and then keep them in place by screwing the metal lid back on:

30netci.jpg


____________________

With either idea, the threads on the carto do not start from the very top, so it's still easy to remove and replace the white rubber mouthpiece.
 
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nicotime

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Cant you just stuff some wick material in the gaps to stop any leaking? It would also hold a small amount of juice close to the coil to replenish the wick to. Looks to me like without any filler to hold surface tension these will need to be kept batt end down when not in use. Sorry..may be talking out my .... now, just going by what I see and hear until I get some to play with.
 

br5495

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scott, they didnt say the new mold would be final, they are going to test them with the new slits and see what they do first. At this point the main leak needed to be fixed and thats cool and the primer needed to be removed and thats cool but the cup is picky, it needs to be tested for sure.
I am testing three at the present time. None of them leak. One with a br mod fixed an over wicking problem. Another with a br mod fixed an under wicking problem. The ceramic cup is as per original.

I am not satisfied with what I am doing and still working on it. I need a lathe, but mine is in storage. By brother has one, but I don't know yet when we can get together. When all is said and done I may be full of Shinola and it may be a bust.
 

naviathan

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Ok, then just make the wide slots narrow again please, and keep a large wick hole at the bottom of the new, narrow slits.



nav, yeah, cut the water off, lol.
it helps to hear reviews when people use normal e-liquids, but glad to hear you had added water, at least you told us.

water also has a higher temperature requirement

water can confuse many readers, because it's so easy and convenient to get the wrong water and wouldn't that affect resistivity or conductivity?

Depends on the water so yes the term can be a bit misleading. In mixing e-juice I use steam distilled water only. Anything else can cause issues with the coil. In any case, watering it down seems to effect the amount a vapor drastically and taste.

Yep. You have a lemon, heheh. Pull another one out of the box and try it.

On my lemon, I removed the filler ring and filled the reservoir up to the bottom of the cup. Then centered the cup and put the ring back in upside down. In some cases, it was necessary to remove the battery to get the cup to stay centered. That was with my lemon. Lord only knows what you will have to do with yours.

I have 2 packs of lemons then because I haven't been able to get a single one to work right out of the pack. It's like the wick is choking at the edges of the cup.
 

badkolo

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thats wierd NAV, in all honesty this time around im not having wicking issues that hold me back form enjoying the e2, at least nothing in the scale i had on older revisions and if everything else was fixed i could live with how it wick, but thats just me and under stress testing by having many test it then they discover issues that i might not have.

The only issue i had was with taste and by either removing the center plug which helps then removing the inner plug completely brings the tatse to where i should be, also cutting the hole and making it bigger also gave the same good results.

I dont know what to say about your wicking issue especially since the slots are so wide, have you tred to pull the wick up a little and strand it.
 
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