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K24A3

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whenever I get a bad one that starts to upset me I just pickup and start vaping the good ones so I dont flip the f out..
this can be frustrating so i need the good ones to keep me focused.:blink::unsure:

I hear you badkolo, it is definitely frustrating at times, but other times they are a good vape lol. Consistency is the key, but they have yet to find a key that fits at this stage :p
 

zoiDman

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Seems like what RS / MiT are doing is design by committee. That is, if more people in a group agree on a design change to fix a problem, then that is the change that is implemented.

Take the plastic cup revision. People said it had wicking problems. So the agreed design change was to widen the cup slots. This seemed to cause the majority of the leaking. Was the wicking problem really resolved or was a new problem introduced? And why didn't the "testing" that RS/MiT performed detect it?

Now people are saying that the ceramic cups should have holes instead of slots and a smaller ID on the seal. To stop the leaking and give a better hit. This isn’t going to address any wicking issues but Might stop the leaking. But will it just introduce a New problem?

About the only way I can get the cup seal out to refill and to wash is to get a hook under the seal and pry it up. If there is not a slot in the cup, how is the seal going to be removed? There isn't going to be anything to get a hook under.

Not sure how much Actual testing goes into making a design change with RS/MiT. I know that at the companies I worked for, ANY design change had to have a “Proof of Concept” prototypes were made first and then Extensive testing was done on them.

Random changes tend to produce random problems.
 

K24A3

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I don't think the ceramic cup introduced the leaking problem, it seems to be caused by the widening/loosening of the wick slit in the cup to improve performance, resulting in a larger wick gap causing a higher chance of leaking.

If the slits were shorter, they would be closer to the filler cap and probably melt the silicone, so having holes instead of slits may be the ultimate solution.
 

zoiDman

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I don't think the ceramic cup introduced the leaking problem, it seems to be caused by the widening/loosening of the wick slit in the cup to improve performance, resulting in a larger wick gap causing a higher chance of leaking.

If the slits were shorter, they would be closer to the filler cap and probably melt the silicone, so having holes instead of slits may be the ultimate solution.

Agreed, it wasn't the change in material but the change in geometry that seemed to induce the leaking.

OK, so now say they have holes for the wick. Is that going to reduce the wicking if they use the current single strand wick material?

From what I gather, Noboby like refilling with a syringe. And Everyone wants to be able to wash and dry an E2 carto.

So how will a non-slotted cup effect the removal of the seal for filling and washing?
 

BanjoMan

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Ever since I got my XL order I've been "experimenting" with them. If I have to go out and take something with me that I know works, I grab a few older CE2 510's. I plan on cutting another plastic fill ring to fit my 510 XL, but on subsequent refills with my first one I'm still getting leakage into the air tube.

Here's my basic idea. I know they probably won't do it, but they should. Go back to the plastic cup/plastic fill ring design (no glue), but improve the wicking from the original design by opening the slots just a bit and keeping the current wick. In addition they need to raise the overall ohm rating (2.8-3.2 should be fine) and keep it consistent carto to carto. imo that would solve 95% of the problems we're having with these.

If there's no difference in performance between plastic cup and ceramic cup keep the ceramic, But I never had a plastic one melt or burn and it seemed to seal with the plastic fill ring just fine.

In addition (and most importantly), replace everyone's previous XL orders with a real working version free of charge. They're not working as advertised.
 

zoiDman

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In addition (and most importantly), replace everyone's previous XL orders with a real working version free of charge. They're not working as advertised.

This is what has turned me, and the people I know off about E2 cartos.

People place orders and then wait and wait and wait for it to ship. Then when they arrive, they don't work very well. You go to the web site and you see that there is some new revision that is out that is Supposed to have addressed the issues your having. But your stuck with a handful of 5 packs that work so-so.

I'm telling everyone I know to hold off for 3 or 4 months before you buy any of these. Maybe then RS/MiT can do some Actual testing on the products they sell so we don't have too.

BTW Banjo - The leaking can be fixed by stuffing the carto with Poly or Blue Foam. Kinda a PITA but at least your not stuck with a bunch of cartos that leak. Makes it safe to carry a ceramic carto when your on the go.

I've lost one battery allreay to a leaky carto. I'm not going to loose another.
 

Turbo

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i tested 15 new ones and im getting half that leak. the other half worked well and wicked well but are not the proper ohm.
I'm finding the same results on a smaller scale; out of four one leaks, one's a slow wicker, and two are doing good.

Not sure how much Actual testing goes into making a design change with RS/MiT. I know that at the companies I worked for, ANY design change had to have a “Proof of Concept” prototypes were made first and then Extensive testing was done on them.
I agree 'zoi', they should have people in house to test but they could've sent samples to 'nav', 'bad', etc. to test and bounce ideas back and forth before committing to large orders of these revisions.

Go back to the plastic cup/plastic fill ring design (no glue), but improve the wicking from the original design by opening the slots just a bit and keeping the current wick. In addition they need to raise the overall ohm rating (2.8-3.2 should be fine) and keep it consistent carto to carto. imo that would solve 95% of the problems we're having with these.
I agree 'banjo', the old plastic filler ring was so much easier to deal w/. I didn't get leaking on mine until day 17, and that was due to the slots warping.
 

BanjoMan

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This is what has turned me, and the people I know off about E2 cartos.

People place orders and then wait and wait and wait for it to ship. Then when they arrive, they don't work very well. You go to the web site and you see that there is some new revision that is out that is Supposed to have addressed the issues your having. But your stuck with a handful of 5 packs that work so-so.

I'm telling everyone I know to hold off for 3 or 4 months before you buy any of these. Maybe then RS/MiT can do some Actual testing on the products they sell so we don't have too.

BTW Banjo - The leaking can be fixed by stuffing the carto with Poly or Blue Foam. Kinda a PITA but at least your not stuck with a bunch of cartos that leak. Makes it safe to carry a ceramic carto when your on the go.

I've lost one battery allreay to a leaky carto. I'm not going to loose another.

Where exactly are you putting the poly? I toyed with the idea of folding up a small piece of PTB and stuffing it between the cup and carto wall, but haven't tried it yet.
 

zoiDman

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I agree 'zoi', they should have people in house to test but they could've sent samples to 'nav', 'bad', etc. to test and bounce ideas back and forth before committing to large orders of these revisions.

I was happy with the Regular plastic E2 cartos I tried. The wicking didn't seem that bad. The only time I had a problems was if the carto was stored month piece up overnight. Refilling was easy.

Now I tried an XL and they leak and it cost me an eGo battery. Seeems like a step backwards. The leaking was something they Should have caught. But then again, so was the mystery fluid which got on the wick.


Where exactly are you putting the poly? I toyed with the idea of folding up a small piece of PTB and stuffing it between the cup and carto wall, but haven't tried it yet.

For Blue Foam, I cut a long then rectangle and folded it over the wick between the cup and the carto wall. Found it didn't need to go 360 degrees around the cup. Just in the area where the slots were widened.

For Poly, I stuffed the entire carvity. The poly didn't seem to want to stay in place next to the wide slots.
 
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BanjoMan

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I'm back to my original ceramics, the XLs are killing me with the harsh draws I get because they won't wick for me. It hurts my throat bad :(

I'm sorry GC. You can pull the inner fill ring out completely and replace it with the middle ring to help fix the wicking issue, but you'll need to keep it upright (like in your Chuck).
 

zoiDman

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I'm back to my original ceramics, the XLs are killing me with the harsh draws I get because they won't wick for me. It hurts my throat bad :(

That's funny you would say that because as I was typing the post above this I thought: "I would allmost consider buying some of the old style cartos. They worked."

I don't like spent 25 bucks for shipping from China on something that ruined my battery. And then to put the iceing on the cake, they don't except returns and the "Say" they have new and improved ones.

I wonder what they did with that warehouse full of the old E2 cartos? Probably just threw them away.
 

BanjoMan

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I tried that banjo, tried it every which way, even without rings at all. Getting on my nerves :(

Do you have a 510XL or 808D? The 510's are only about 2.6ohm so I can understand how they might be harsh on your Chuck.

Not a solution but have you tried the 510XL with no fill ring on your LS at low voltage?
 

Ghetto_Cowgirl

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Do you have a 510XL or 808D? The 510's are only about 2.6ohm so I can understand how they might be harsh on your Chuck.

Not a solution but have you tried the 510XL with no fill ring on your LS at low voltage?


Yep, I won't even use them on my Chuck, bit too harsh. Lowest setting on LS, all 510 connected. I get a bit of harsh no wicking taste on the regulars but nowhere near as bad and a quick shake fixes that. Not so with the XLs, they only wick for about 5 drags after a fill then ouchy harshness.
 

zoiDman

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I tried that banjo, tried it every which way, even without rings at all. Getting on my nerves :(

Maybe you could do a trade with someone in the Classified Section. New Ceramic Cartos for Old Plastic ones? I'd send you a few of the plastic ones but I only have one left.

I sold 4 packs of XL cartos last night for a friend of mine in 8 minutes. So I know there are people who want them bad.

BTW - That friend of mine said that they were harsh also. He was ...... because he waited 3 weeks to get them. When he got them they leaked and had thread issuse. The were also low ohms. So he sold his to try and recoup the money to buy 3 ohm version.

He just emailed me to ask about these "New" changes to the cup and seal. I told him I have no idea if they are going to be better or worse. Or if the 3 ohm version are actualy 3ohms or not. I told him to hold off and let the people with more time and money test them out before he did an order from China.

Now I Fully Understand why V4L was not happy about selling these cartos.

Blame Canada. :p

I Blame Canada for EVERYTHING. From Bad Eggs to Violence in the streets. Just seems like the thing to do.
 

BanjoMan

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Yep, I won't even use them on my Chuck, bit too harsh. Lowest setting on LS, all 510 connected. I get a bit of harsh no wicking taste on the regulars but nowhere near as bad and a quick shake fixes that. Not so with the XLs, they only wick for about 5 drags after a fill then ouchy harshness.

Welp I've only got two possible solutions for ya: 1) your juice may be a little too thick (I use TV juice @ 25% VG), OR... 2) you might just have one of the "bad" cartos that doesn't work well no matter what you do to it. Have you tried more than one? I've had some leakage issues with my XL 510's but I haven't had one yet that didn't taste fine on the LS after removing the filler ring.
 
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