E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion

[BanjoMan]

When it works right, the white cap can prevent leaking in any position. However, I believe many of you have E2's with a more shallow groove in the white cap. These do not work near as often as the older ones. To give you an idea, I'll post some images here that have already been shown. These images are of a cutaway E2 that is used for testing. I have it rigged up so that I can see the wick while it is in actual use.

The first image is with the thick white cap from and early E2 installed. Notice that there is a thin brown stain across the ceramic cup near the bottom of the cap.

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Next is two examples. On the left is a filler ring installed. On the right is a thinner white cap with a more shallow groove. Notice the brown stain across the ceramic cup. This is how far down the older cap went. Even if the white cap shown here does not prevent all leaks, it's a lot easier to install after filling or maintenance.

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Here is what the complete cutaway looks like. The left one shows the Release 3.5 filler ring installed. Notice that it goes all the way down to the brown stain. It will prevent most leaks, but not all. On the right is the same thing with sleeves over the cutouts. The cartomizer can be used with them installed, and the liquid level can be seen.

Nice cutting there, doctor. You just gave me an idea. (drumroll.......)

CLEAR CARTOS! Never have to guess how much juice is left in your cartomizer ever again! *

* Propellers extra.

 

[v1John]

we do know about the white plug, but it looks like a different material,
and now we have an inner ring #3.5 that has the additional inner baffle ring

what happens if the white mouthpiece cap is so close to the atomizer when it's orange, is it safe?

(Based on Bad's article/post at: post #2453)

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Excellent idea BanjoMan !! Now we're thinking again. Or you are, haha, sorry.

They may even cost less, and should not get as hot as the metal ones, when you're outside in hot weather and your ecig is in a hot vehicle for 20 minutes.

Savings from too much shipping weight also !!

 

[BanjoMan]

At least with a clear cartomizer you could SEE if you had any glue or filler inside. It also would probably save most folks from having to label their cartos (as long as your juices were different colors).

 

[badkolo]

we do know about the white plug, but it looks like a different material,
and now we have an inner ring #3.5 that has the additional inner baffle ring

what happens if the white mouthpiece cap is so close to the atomizer when it's orange, is it safe?

(Based on Bad's article/post at: post #2453)

____________________________



Excellent idea BanjoMan !! Now we're thinking again. Or you are, haha, sorry.

They may even cost less, and should not get as hot as the metal ones, when you're outside in hot weather and your ecig is in a hot vehicle for 20 minutes.

Savings from too much shipping weight also !!

i cut that inner ring out immediatly , it cuts out easy and helps with the draw.

 

[br5495]

Nice cutting there, doctor. You just gave me an idea. (drumroll.......)

CLEAR CARTOS! Never have to guess how much juice is left in your cartomizer ever again! *

* Propellers extra.

You wouldn't think it would make a noticeable difference, but the cut outs on mine allows it hold more juice.

 

[br5495]

we do know about the white plug, but it looks like a different material,
and now we have an inner ring #3.5 that has the additional inner baffle ring

what happens if the white mouthpiece cap is so close to the atomizer when it's orange, is it safe?

The white mouthpiece gets a brown spot or two on it, but not as much as the silicone filler ring in the R3.5. If you remember, Banjo had some photos of the brown stains on his that would not wash off.

 

[v1John]

At least with a clear cartomizer you could SEE if you had any glue or filler inside. It also would probably save most folks from having to label their cartos (as long as your juices were different colors).

Thanks, yes of course. The benefits can be so many, here is your first BanjoMan-Br5495 prototype, enjoy:

( maybe the CE3 carto ?)

 

[br5495]

i cut that inner ring out immediatly , it cuts out easy and helps with the draw.

Quit trying to rape these things, heheh. Try a nice and easy soft draw and you won't notice a difference with a larger hole. See what a slower velocity of air across the coil will do. I like it better that way, but other people may not.

 

[v1John]

i cut that inner ring out immediatly , it cuts out easy and helps with the draw.

Oh no, please don't get rid of the new baffle, Bad. I actually think it helps mine. I haven't had any leakage problems with the #3.5 baffled inner caps.

Are you getting a better draw maybe because of a bigger hole diameter? (See the pink arrows) Because maybe the hole can be bigger, and still have a baffle of some sort, I hope.

 

[br5495]

Oh no, please don't get rid of the new baffle, Bad. I actually think it helps mine. I haven't had any leakage problems with the #3.5 baffled inner caps.

The "new baffle" helps with the leakage John, but not always. I have been trying to tell you kids this since July, but I may as well be banging my head against a wall.

The E2 that I am using right now leaked all over the place with the "new baffle", but I believe it is the exception rather than the rule.

 

[v1John]

Ok, 'cause I'm aware of a post or two, once in a blue moon there might be a small leak, but you also have the wire holes on the back of the cup. Those should be taken care of with the new black rubber glove (or finger, actually) on the r4.

Do you think that an additional strand of wick through the slots and coil may help? This also hasn't been answered yet , amidst the blue moon, R3.5 leaks.

 

[br5495]

Ok, 'cause I'm aware of a post or two, once in a blue moon there might be a small leak, but you also have the wire holes on the back of the cup. Those should be taken care of with the new black rubber glove (or finger, actually) on the r4.

Do you think that an additional strand of wick through the slots and coil may help? This also hasn't been answered yet , amidst the blue moon, R3.5 leaks.

I don't think the wire holes have been giving a problem. The shrink tubing will help the capillary action between the ceramic stem and metal tube more that anything else. The ceramic cup was as loose as a goose on the test E2 with the cutout windows and it leaked too bad to use properly. That is why I did not mind cutting holes in it.

About the stranded wick in the slot. You won't like my answer. I said it before and I will say it again. This method of delivery will never be mass produced with 100% reliability, regardless of the number of strands or size of the slots (within reason). There are just too many factors involved, some of which have not been discussed here yet.

 

[badkolo]

I don't think the wire holes have been giving a problem. The shrink tubing will help the capillary action between the ceramic stem and metal tube more that anything else. The ceramic cup was as loose as a goose on the test E2 with the cutout windows and it leaked too bad to use properly. That is why I did not mind cutting holes in it.

About the stranded wick in the slot. You won't like my answer. I said it before and I will say it again. This method of delivery will never be mass produced with 100% reliability, regardless of the number of strands or size of the slots (within reason). There are just too many factors involved, some of which have not been discussed here yet.

and thats why god created ptb MR.BR. with the ptb there is no wicking issue. ok ok its not a mass solution but its a simple way of making the e2 a wicking monster

 

[v1John]

...This method of delivery will never be mass produced with 100% reliability, regardless of the number of strands or size of the slots (within reason). There are just too many factors involved, some of which have not been discussed here yet.

That was my point though, get the wick's diameter within reason to the size of the slots. I also see that the wick can inflate and deflate, but I see a lot of pictures with a great big slot, and a very small wick.

Now the other factors, I don't know why they haven't been discussed. Are we waiting for the R5 to discuss them, or are they just not important?

 

[badkolo]

there wont be any r5.
at the rate things are going paypal will be gone for the usa soon as well.
the r4 is the last revision. the only difference will be you can choose to have the afl in the e2 or in the package so oyu can do it yourself.

 

[br5495]

and thats why god created ptb MR.BR. with the ptb there is no wicking issue. ok ok its not a mass solution but its a simple way of making the e2 a wicking monster

I am sucking on a ptb mod right now. It works okay, but it is not outstanding. I have an alternate E2 that I like better. It has a br mod, has a "wide open" draw and sounds like bacon frying each time I draw on it. It IS outstanding. But then, it is not the mods that are accomplishing this difference in performance. Some of these things just work better no matter what you do to them.

 

[badkolo]

i cant believe im asking this, is it the full tail ptb or some br concoction ptb

 

[br5495]

there wont be any r5.
at the rate things are going paypal will be gone for the usa soon as well.
the r4 is the last revision. the only difference will be you can choose to have the afl in the e2 or in the package so oyu can do it yourself.

I'd rather they put the fiber in the cartomizer, rather than the package. It will be easier to take out than for someone to put it in. Actually, I think it may work well. After all, it's almost the same thing as the Highping Cart Mod, and a lot of people like that method better than blue foam and ptb. Also, I don't think a filler ring will be necessary with the fiber there. It should keep the juice from running out just like it does with a regular cartridge.

 

[br5495]

i cant believe im asking this, is it the full tail ptb or some br concoction ptb

It is a full tail dyed in the wool ptb mod. It has a middle ring installed with the flat side down.

 

[v1John]

Br, and the one like frying bacon is the same ohms and otherwise identical? I'm interested in knowing all the other undiscussed factors.

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Bad, ok well the CE2-R4 should be good to go, I'm sure it can sell for a long time, but I think then that the CE3 is not far beyond the horizon:

Think of The [Potential] CE3 -- [think clear, heheh ]