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br5495

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I believe the current of the battery causes the juice to taste burnt, not so much the voltage.

I have a 5volt USB PT and CE2 carto's work great on that. No burnt taste at all (no problem vaping for 3-4 seconds).

But at the same time I have a 3.7v KR808D-1 Battery and the juice burns very easily (anything over 1 second burns).

Most 5 volt PT's vape at a lower voltage. My "store bought" PT measures 3.5 volts while in actual use.
 

Turbo

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Here's my crappy cell phone pic of the 'led'. I can take some better ones if I ever get my camera back from a friend.
 

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v1John

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That's good, Turbo, I may get some too, I imagine that it glows all the way around too. I have been waiting since their

advertized August launch,

and I hope e-liquid has them soon so I can choose 3.3volts or 3.7, and LED color too.
According to the ad above, you can choose from orange, purple, blue, and green LED :thumb:.

Doesn't the ash cap light up too though? I think I might like it to light up.

______

:-x By the way, do you or someone know what would be a good store bought sealant to squirt in the battery hole? They're apparently manufacturing manual batteries using the unsealed, airy, automatic-battery ends and I really need to get those holes properly plugged.
?
 
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Turbo

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That's good, Turbo, I may get some too, I imagine that it glows all the way around too. I have been waiting since their

advertized August launch,

and I hope e-liquid has them soon so I can choose 3.3volts or 3.7, and LED color too.
According to the ad above, you can choose from orange, purple, blue, and green LED :thumb:.

Doesn't the ash cap light up too though? I think I might like it to light up.

______

By the way, do you or someone know what would be a good store bought sealant to squirt in the battery hole? They're apparently manufacturing all their manual batteries with the unsealed airy automatic-battery ends and I really need to get those holes properly plugged.
?

Yes, it glows all the way around. I know, they were advertised for an August launch but don't appear available to the masses yet. Mine is 3.7 volts. The ash cap does not light up. I guess it's there for decoration. That's why I thought my batt was dead at first..lol..use to seeing it light up. It is cool to see the 'led' at your nose level though.

Good question on the sealing the batt hole. If you find out something let me know.
 

v1John

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______

:-x By the way, do you or someone know what would be a good store bought sealant to squirt in the battery hole? They're apparently manufacturing manual batteries using the unsealed, airy, automatic-battery ends and I really need to get those holes properly plugged.
?

Oh, ok, I was wondering if you knew. Ok, but to be sure first, are you able to blow or draw air in the battery? That way you know for sure.

There are so many sealants available, and I really don't know which one would be the safest and best to work with.
I also wondered about hot glue, except I wouldn't know how to inject it into the small battery hole.
 

Turbo

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Oh, ok, I was wondering if you knew. Ok, but to be sure first, are you able to blow or draw air in the battery? That way you know for sure.

There are so many sealants available, and I really don't know which one would be the safest and best to work with.
I also wondered about hot glue, except I wouldn't know how to inject it into the small battery hole.

Yes, if I blow air through the threaded end I can feel it at the other end. I'd be concerned w/ hitting the 'led' element but I'm sure there's a way.
 

v1John

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Yes, if I blow air through the threaded end I can feel it at the other end. I'd be concerned w/ hitting the 'led' element but I'm sure there's a way.


I unprofessionally managed to get mine to half-work by stuffing a small amount of the poly fill sheet from walmart, the only thing is that the filler itself will try to absorb moisture and liquid, so I really can't recommend that you do that. I wonder if a small piece of plastic would work, and then topped off with silicone or something safe when cured.

edit/add: It's also good I guess to know the warranty ahead of time, I hope that fixing them doesn't void it.
 
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Turbo

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I wonder if a small piece of plastic would work, and then topped off with silicone or something safe when cured.

I just thought of this; Grimm Green sealed a 901 batt w/ a .... plug from a carto a while ago:



He had a little trouble getting it to stay, at least on the video. Wonder if that would be the answer, a silicone plug?
 

v1John

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I tried that once, but it is a pain and threw away all my ancient carto stuff and atomizers.
I might try and find something like this Walmart

silicone aquarium sealant :


0015905650038_215X215.jpg



It releases acetic acid while curing, but it looks like it cures and bonds eventually after a day and lots of instructions, I'm not recommending people to use that, but I may look into it tomorrow. Also remember about the battery warranty.
 
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badkolo

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with the tekkmod variable, it can go as low as 1.2 and high as 6.4, thats what it says.

now if i take a 2.4 ohm 510 xl and go too high on the dial in the 3.7 range i can that metalic dry taste, if i dial it down i can get it to give off huge vapor and wick perfectly without any dry spots, i have no way of telling of what volts im on but my point is that so far on 6 different ohm'd e2's from 2.4 to 2.5 to 2.6 to 2.8 and 2.9 and 3.0, i was able to turn up the voltage and get that bad taste then dial it down and hit the sweet spot that really fixes the issues i had before.

vjohn, i would need a step by step tutorial to accomplish what you asked.

with the 2.9 and 3.0 ohm e2 i was able to go up to 5volts almost and it was just shooting vapor into my mouth
 
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v1John

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Oh ok Bad, it's ok then.
For the record that's how I do it though, when measuring the volts at the lit up coil, just set the dial of the Vom at 20volts, and then the black probe goes to the battery and carto ground where they thread, and the red probe to the lit up coil at the air stem. My coil at the airstem is 2 volts when it's lit up, and I have no issues with taste, unless I need to cut the wick off and use the ptb strips, but that's what I'm vaping now (Lipton strips), so no issues on any battery or carto for me.

2cnvx9z.jpg


______

The black probe I put on the battery and carto ground, and the red probe to the coil when it's lit up:

wkhahv.jpg


8vpybs.jpg
 
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br5495

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vjohn, i would need a step by step tutorial to accomplish what you asked.

vjohn has never measured the battery voltage, bad. He thinks that the voltage measured from the center of the heating coil is all that matters.

All you do is measure the voltage between the outer tube and one end of the coil. There is a 50/50 chance that you will probe the correct end of the coil on the first try. If the tube was big enough to get both probes in there, you could measure from one end of the coil to the other.
 

v1John

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But it's a little awkward Bad, and it's only what it is, a measurement of the volts at the lit up coil, I don't think it really says much about the battery or the entire circuit.

_____
edit add: Br, the coil heat is actually the only thing that vaporizes, that is what I meant way back then. Nothing else in the circuit vporizes, including a variable resistor inside the brothers and sisters.
 
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Scottbee

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Oh ok Bad, it's ok then.
For the record that's how I do it though, when measuring the volts at the lit up coil, just set the dial of the Vom at 20volts, and then the black probe goes to the battery and carto ground where they thread, and the red probe to the lit up coil at the air stem. My coil at the airstem is 2 volts when it's lit up, and I have no issues with taste, unless I need to cut the wick off and use the ptb strips, but that's what I'm vaping now (Lipton strips), so no issues on any battery or carto for me.
______

The black probe I put on the battery and carto ground, and the red probe to the coil when it's lit up:

Making this measurement tells you absolutely nothing.....

Sorry, but it is a waste of time.
 
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