Eleaf Istick

[Shadav]

i look at it as....when you buy a 2.0 atty....well if you test it it could be anywhere from 1.9 to 2.3.....
now I don't understand all the technicalities, but it works, it's teeny tiny, and has a nice battery life....i get that it isn't standard readings but hey...so it's off a bit....it's still a step in the right direction...more power, longer battery, smaller form.....

can't wait til coop one comes in

 

[Janie47]

Please forgive my ignorance but I'm sooo confused by all of this. For instance, the poster who said a Kanger Protank would need a 3.0 ohm coil in order to vape btwn 6-12 watts... I just stuck my PT 3 Mini on my iStick with a 1.5 ohm coil and was able to vape at 5.2 watts? My Nauti minis w/1.8 ohm BVC coils have tasted amazing as well (@ anywhere from 6 to 15 watts depending on my juice). I've had zero burnt hits. What am I missing? Is there a link that explains the problems? I was going to order my niece one of these cos I've loved it, but would like to understand what these issues are before I get her one. I don't want to get her something that is flawed (even tho I'm obviously not experienced enough with vv/vw to notice said flaws. The iTaste vv v3 is the only vv/vw I owned prior to this). Thanks much in advance for any guidance!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[spaceballsrules]

Maybe because for some of us, it doesn't matter. It works. If it's hot, turn it down.

I'd like it to be accurate, and conform to the other devices. But bottom line, in 5 months when I get iStick v.2 and set it to 8 watts, it will give me the same vape as this one at 7.something.

For some of us, that isn't a choice that is available. I like my attys at 3.4-3.6V. When I set the iStick to the lowest 3.0V, I am getting a device that is actually firing at 4.0V. That kind of margin of error is unacceptable.

If eLeaf wants to create the most encompassing perfect vape to capture as much of the market as possible, they need to fix this ASAP. They have every other piece of the puzzle in place. Form factor, price, battery life, etc. is all spot on.

I am looking forward to the next duel: Innokin MVP 3.0 vs. eLeaf iStick 2.0.

I'm not sure what Joyetech's stake is in this. I think they're just distributers, perhaps exclusive. In other words... I don't think they have anything to do with the engineering and technical side of it (yes? no? I'm just guessing). But yes, you'd think they would understand that "mean" voltage output was a bit archaic and it really couldn't be defended these days.

Joyetech has to have something to do with the design and production of this device if they are sending Joyetech reps out to forums to get input about improvements they could make on the device.

Please forgive my ignorance but I'm sooo confused by all of this. For instance, the poster who said a Kanger Protank would need a 3.0 ohm coil in order to vape btwn 6-12 watts... I just stuck my PT 3 Mini on my iStick with a 1.5 ohm coil and was able to vape at 5.2 watts? My Nauti minis w/1.8 ohm BVC coils have tasted amazing as well (@ anywhere from 6 to 15 watts depending on my juice). I've had zero burnt hits. What am I missing? Is there a link that explains the problems? I was going to order my niece one of these cos I've loved it, but would like to understand what these issues are before I get her one. I don't want to get her something that is flawed (even tho I'm obviously not experienced enough with vv/vw to notice said flaws. The iTaste vv v3 is the only vv/vw I owned prior to this). Thanks much in advance for any guidance!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

The iStick fires hotter than what the setting shows. For many people, this is not an issue, as they can just turn down the power to suit their tastes.

For people like me who like a cooler vape, it becomes a major issue because it can't be set low enough to suit our tastes.

To fully understand the issue, watch pbusardo's video, and when he shows the readings from his oscilloscope, it becomes clear how the settings affect the real world vaping experience.

 

[KTMRider]

This is, by far, the biggest problem. The eLeaf has a serious flaw that needs to be addressed, but when confronted directly about it, they still claim that it is untrue. They did this in a thread on Reddit where Joyetech specifically asked for feedback on the device and how to make improvements with the version 2.0.



The response directly from Joyetech....

Serious flaw? Really? Drama queen much?

Their claim is correct. In Mean mode, not RMS. They weren't lying.

Yeah, it would be nice if it was RMS but it isn't. Is it a deal breaker? Maybe for some but I think most here don't care and adjust accordingly.

And the analogy of 2 different tv's with volume isn't quite right. Most devices are going by a specific scale (volts) so technically, any device that reads 3.5v should output 3.5v. The tricky part is how it gets there and that's where the confusion and misinformation occur.

Either way, the istick can handle carts and pre-built coils just fine. There might be some rattlesnaking because of the way the istick handles the output (Mean) but I haven't experienced it at all. It still provides a great vape in a tiny package with long battery life so most people that already have one are happy campers. I still love mine.

 

[Janie47]

So hopefully as long as I love it, all is good? Wth is "mean" mode? I don't even know what RMS are. Oy vey. 'Reckon I'll learn... if it's necessary. Lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[spaceballsrules]

Serious flaw? Really? Drama queen much?

Their claim is correct. In Mean mode, not RMS. They weren't lying.

Yeah, it would be nice if it was RMS but it isn't. Is it a deal breaker? Maybe for some but I think most here don't care and adjust accordingly.

And the analogy of 2 different tv's with volume isn't quite right. Most devices are going by a specific scale (volts) so technically, any device that reads 3.5v should output 3.5v. The tricky part is how it gets there and that's where the confusion and misinformation occur.

Either way, the istick can handle carts and pre-built coils just fine. There might be some rattlesnaking because of the way the istick handles the output (Mean) but I haven't experienced it at all. It still provides a great vape in a tiny package with long battery life so most people that already have one are happy campers. I still love mine.

If the flaw is big enough that pbusardo gives it an overall thumbs down, then yeah, it is a serious flaw.

Have you even been following this thread, or watched the review? When the iStick is showing 3.5V, it's actually outputting at ~4.5V. That's more than just a minor OOPS!

 

[Janie47]

For some of us, that isn't a choice that is available. I like my attys at 3.4-3.6V. When I set the iStick to the lowest 3.0V, I am getting a device that is actually firing at 4.0V. That kind of margin of error is unacceptable.

If eLeaf wants to create the most encompassing perfect vape to capture as much of the market as possible, they need to fix this ASAP. They have every other piece of the puzzle in place. Form factor, price, battery life, etc. is all spot on.

I am looking forward to the next duel: Innokin MVP 3.0 vs. eLeaf iStick 2.0.



Joyetech has to have something to do with the design and production of this device if they are sending Joyetech reps out to forums to get input about improvements they could make on the device.



The iStick fires hotter than what the setting shows. For many people, this is not an issue, as they can just turn down the power to suit their tastes.

For people like me who like a cooler vape, it becomes a major issue because it can't be set low enough to suit our tastes.

To fully understand the issue, watch pbusardo's video, and when he shows the readings from his oscilloscope, it becomes clear how the settings affect the real world vaping experience.

I always liked my iTaste (til it drowned in pool last week) at 3.5 volts. If I'm understanding correctly, when my iStick reads 3.0 volts, it really is... what? 4?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[Janie47]

For some of us, that isn't a choice that is available. I like my attys at 3.4-3.6V. When I set the iStick to the lowest 3.0V, I am getting a device that is actually firing at 4.0V. That kind of margin of error is unacceptable.

If eLeaf wants to create the most encompassing perfect vape to capture as much of the market as possible, they need to fix this ASAP. They have every other piece of the puzzle in place. Form factor, price, battery life, etc. is all spot on.

I am looking forward to the next duel: Innokin MVP 3.0 vs. eLeaf iStick 2.0.



Joyetech has to have something to do with the design and production of this device if they are sending Joyetech reps out to forums to get input about improvements they could make on the device.



The iStick fires hotter than what the setting shows. For many people, this is not an issue, as they can just turn down the power to suit their tastes.

For people like me who like a cooler vape, it becomes a major issue because it can't be set low enough to suit our tastes.

To fully understand the issue, watch pbusardo's video, and when he shows the readings from his oscilloscope, it becomes clear how the settings affect the real world vaping experience.

Pls disregard the question I just posed to you. We were typing at the same time. You answered it anyway. Thanks a bunch! Will watch video when I get on laptop. Not enough svc on my phone

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[KTMRider]

So hopefully as long as I love it, all is good? Wth is "mean" mode? I don't even know what RMS are. Oy vey. 'Reckon I'll learn... if it's necessary. Lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

If you like how it vapes and you don't get any burnt hits, then yes, all is good.

Mean (or Vavg) is the average of the output. It will cycle on at 4.2v and then off, then back on to 4.2v to get an average of 3v or 3.5v (whatever you're set to) over a period of time. The problem is that it tends to hit harder than RMS (actual linear output). That's the reason you lower the settings on the istick compared to other devices.

While I agree this is a bad oversight on Eleaf's part, I don't see it as a deal breaker. I never got a burnt hit on an Aerotank with a 2.0 coil or any other tank I have. I don't use carts so I can't comment on those.

 

[spaceballsrules]

Pls disregard the question I just posed to you. We were typing at the same time. You answered it anyway. Thanks a bunch! Will watch video when I get on laptop. Not enough svc on my phone

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

pbusardo's video is very enlightening. It's technical enough to get to the nitty gritty, but easy enough to understand without a degree in electrical engineering.

 

[Janie47]

Thanks! Appreciate all of the help here. Makes sense now and I'm sure will make even more sense after I watch that video.

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[KTMRider]

If the flaw is big enough that pbusardo gives it an overall thumbs down, then yeah, it is a serious flaw.

Have you even been following this thread, or watched the review? When the iStick is showing 3.5V, it's actually outputting at ~4.5V. That's more than just a minor OOPS!

Yes I have been following this thread and I actually posted the video. Did YOU watch it? Or did you just skip to the end where he gave the overall thumbs down? Did you listen to his explanation of why?

If you want to base your purchasing decision solely on one reviewer, that's fine. Don't buy one. There are a lot of people here using carts and pre-built coils that have no issues other than lowering their settings to get a good vape.

Claiming that this is a huge flaw and that Eleaf/Joyetech is lying to us is a bit much. Phil even showed that the device was reading correctly when you looked at the Mean output. The istick is more accurate in ohm readings than most DNA box mods. I agree they got it wrong going with Mean rather than RMS but it doesn't mean they lied or it's the end of the world because of it. It's a tiny 20w apv with great battery life.

 

[Zelphie]

Does anyone else's istick get warm while charging and in pass-through mode?

 

[DaveOno]

I think all lithium rechargeable batteries get warmer during recharge. Some just a little, some much more.

 

[Zelphie]

Oh and, is anyone else's indicator showing that its fully charged on a drained battery in only 20 mins?? Im guessing its not really charged cause it then only gives you a few hours of vape time until the indicator shows low battery? Do I have a defective one?

 

[KTMRider]

Oh and, is anyone else's indicator showing that its fully charged on a drained battery in only 20 mins?? Im guessing its not really charged cause it then only gives you a few hours of vape time until the indicator shows low battery? Do I have a defective one?

Sounds like it might be defective. Mine seems fairly accurate.

 

[Jumpin' In...]

So hopefully as long as I love it, all is good? Wth is "mean" mode? I don't even know what RMS are. Oy vey. 'Reckon I'll learn... if it's necessary. Lol

IMO, the answer to your 1st question is "yes". . The rest is as meaningful or as meaningless as you wish.

I dunno about everyone else, but I knew that some people were saying that the iStick fired hotter than most before I decided to buy one. I had probably already read about the possibility that it used Vavg and not Vrms. Knowing all of that, I decided to roll the dice anyway because I liked the form factor, battery life and price, plus I needed to replace a battery that was going downhill anyway. Luckily, I "won" in this case and ended up with a device that suits my purposes very well.

Buying a new device before it has been out in the marketplace for awhile, before it has been well reviewed and before any "bugs" have been worked out of it is like gambling without really knowing the odds. IMO, you really shouldn't feel morally offended if it doesn't work out.

Now I'm not saying that Eleaf shouldn't switch to Vrms, but people need to recognize and accept that when you gamble, you sometimes lose.

 

[amoret]

I'm just glad I did wait, since I do like a cooler vape, and turning it down is not an option available to me.

 

[DaveOno]

You should charge it until the display turns off, if you 5 clicked the device off while charging.
Or until the battery indicator stops flashing, if charging while "on".

 

[Buster282]

you could almays use your stick an beat that horse layin around back there 300 or so pages ago!