Eleaf Istick

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Bikenstein

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Yes, Bike, the Aspire BVCs (NOT the nautilus BVCs) are drop in replacements for Aspire's original BDC heads. I've had good luck with both the 1.6Ω & 1.8Ω Aspire BVCs in my AnyVape Peakomizer. If you like to vape below 10W, go with the 1.8Ω. There has simply been some concern over the "ceramic" wicking material used in Aspire's BVCs.
Thanks
What's the differemce in the Aspire vivi bdc and the vivi bvc other than the coils?
Should I be concerned about wicking mat. in the ones for sale now?
Can anyone recommend the Aspire ViVi Novas?
 

Kyi

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The BVC (Bottom Vertical Coil) are the new and improved version of the BDC (Bottom Dual Coil) coils. Well, they aren't even that similar on the inside I think, but they are just way better and I think most people would agree. I've found the 1.8 coils to be the best, I've tried the 1.6 and 2.1 and maybe its just in my head but the 1.8 seems to vape the best for me personally.

I've been using my iStick 30 the past few days and I'm enjoying it a lot. But honestly, I can't tell that much of a difference from my 20 watt other than the aesthetic differences. I don't know diddly squat about all the power options and numbers but for a casual-ish vaper, it's a good step up from the 20 with the spring loaded connection and additional power. I stated before that my main gripe is the rattley-ness of the buttons. My 20 watt doesn't have that problem but my 30 watt sounds like maracas if I shake it. I normally don't shake it so it doesn't really bother me that much but it'd be nice if it didn't.

I also ordered the skin, gonna see if the 20 watt skin will fit over the 30 perfectly or if it will look slightly misaligned. I'm hoping and assuming it will be fine though just based off how they look compared to each other.
 

aldenf

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Thanks
What's the differemce in the Aspire vivi bdc and the vivi bvc other than the coils?
Should I be concerned about wicking mat. in the ones for sale now?
Can anyone recommend the Aspire ViVi Novas?

Mr. Stein, there is no difference, except for the heads, twixt the Vivi BDC & Vivi BVC. The biggest complaint I've seen of the Vivi Novas is their lack of air flow control. The BVCs, apparently, loosen things up a bit.

The discussion of Aspire's BVC wicking material started a while ago but didn't pick up much steam until the release of the Atlantis. Because of the Atlantis' much higher power requirement (2x+), very open air draw and the desire of many users for deep lung hits, more problems were being reported. The talk is that Aspire is switching to organic cotton wicking material. I have not seen this confirmed by Aspire, however.

I'm not sure how to advise you on this matter, Bike. Many believe the wicking material is reasonably safe in the smaller BVCs but are very concerned with degradation in the Atlantis. I have personally decided not to use Aspire's BVCs until the wicking is changed. I have linked an article from last month for your consideration. Take out the hyphens to follow the link. Apparently there is some bad blood between ECF managament and Joe. I normally wouldn't try to circumvent ECF's link policy. But this article should be easily available to all who want to read it.

www.v-a-p-o-r-j-o-e-scanada.com/201...ires-atlantis-heads-silica-wicking-silicosis/
 
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Thanks for the heads up. I was so excited about the price, I just went right in and ordered them without looking that close. I surely won't be able to use them. Well, I'll just have to send them back and order the correct ones. :facepalm:
Here's the correct url for the Nautilus replacement coils...
https://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/heads-coils-cartridges/heads-coils/aspire-nautilus-bvc-replacement-heads.html

You have to watch closely with the Aspire tanks! WIth the tanks by SMOK(Smoktech) when looking over the Trophy I don't like as well as the Tumblers I use a number of along with their HBC, GBC(plastic), FBC, NBC, RBC, etc. models those all use the same 1.8ohm or 2.4ohm replacement coils while the 2ohm coils work out best tin the Tumblers due to the design. The 1.8s work out better in the others for some reason.

I booked marked the page there while I still haven't had to replace a single Nautilus coil including the Mini tanks as of this time. They do last much longer considering I run the tanks at 11-15w on average while the Tumblers have to stay in the 6-10w range. Those have been every other week or so depending on how often used.

Now for anyone looking to get the 30w iStick Vaping Cheap has a new listing for $31.49 with the coupon code provided there at the vendor who already marked them $5 down from $39.99 to $34.99. Eleaf iStick 30 Watt - $31.49 | Best Vape Deals

It comes with a 510/ego adapter, a micro USB cable, and a USB/wall adapter.

Use Coupon Code: VC10 at iSmoka Eleaf iStick 30 Watts Mod
 

jefsview

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Received my new 30W istick in blue from Evape.US!

While not quite the true full kit, it came in the simple Eleaf box that housed just the battery/mod and instructions. A USB cord and generic wall adapter (non-Eleaf adapter @ .5 amps) was supplied. A free sample liquid was also provided (Thanks, Evape.US!!).

First impressions: 510 threads are solid and smooth. My KFL+ sits flush and resistance read accurately.

It does not vape like the 20W.

On my test KFL, I set it at my desired wattage of 7.5 watts, reading 1.4 ohms, delivering 3.2 volts.
Use those same settings on the 30W, weaker vape.
Crank it up to 13.5 watts on the 30W, 4.2 volts -- perfect and smooth.

Not a scientific experiment, but just judging from taste.

So in my experience, Eleaf DID get it right this time. :toast:
 

Bikenstein

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Received my new 30W istick in blue from Evape.US!

While not quite the true full kit, it came in the simple Eleaf box that housed just the battery/mod and instructions. A USB cord and generic wall adapter (non-Eleaf adapter @ .5 amps) was supplied. A free sample liquid was also provided (Thanks, Evape.US!!).

First impressions: 510 threads are solid and smooth. My KFL+ sits flush and resistance read accurately.

It does not vape like the 20W.

On my test KFL, I set it at my desired wattage of 7.5 watts, reading 1.4 ohms, delivering 3.2 volts.
Use those same settings on the 30W, weaker vape.
Crank it up to 13.5 watts on the 30W, 4.2 volts -- perfect and smooth.

Not a scientific experiment, but just judging from taste.

So in my experience, Eleaf DID get it right this time. :toast:

Got mine too. I was surprised with the juice and charger. I haven't done a comparison yet cause I'm too busy vapin at 20 watts with my Rose and watchin a movie. Runs smooth and instant vape. I don't know if she will let go of hers long enough for me to compare the two :) It makes no difference to me anyway.
 
Man... you guys just need an RTA and simplify all the replacement coil issues :p

That would be an RDA or RBA and not something for everyone since a bit of manual dexterity is required similar to bench assembly in electronics as far as getting the wire looped and threaded into the posts. If you try using 32gauge super thin wire to get to 0.5ohms HAVE FUN! Most stick with 18-24 gauge!

Received my new 30W istick in blue from Evape.US!

While not quite the true full kit, it came in the simple Eleaf box that housed just the battery/mod and instructions. A USB cord and generic wall adapter (non-Eleaf adapter @ .5 amps) was supplied. A free sample liquid was also provided (Thanks, Evape.US!!).

First impressions: 510 threads are solid and smooth. My KFL+ sits flush and resistance read accurately.

It does not vape like the 20W.

On my test KFL, I set it at my desired wattage of 7.5 watts, reading 1.4 ohms, delivering 3.2 volts.
Use those same settings on the 30W, weaker vape.
Crank it up to 13.5 watts on the 30W, 4.2 volts -- perfect and smooth.

Not a scientific experiment, but just judging from taste.

So in my experience, Eleaf DID get it right this time. :toast:

When going from eGo-V V3 or V3 Mega battery to Vamo, MVP, VTR, Smok ACE aluminum version of Vamo, or any other box mod once having a Smok Groove II, or ? there always seems to be a slight difference noticed when moving the exact same tank around all set at 7w! Note that was with Smok Tumbler tanks with a 2ohm coil in use. That was without any form of external readings being taken but by the feel of the vape so to speak.

There always seemed to be a distinction to some extent but not by as much as you are seeing. It sounds like the amperage is effected where you are not seeing the true 7.5w at the output end and why adding on a pass through type meter that measures watts and ohmms would provide a much closer approximate of what you are actually seeing. Here I grabbed the Eleaf led Ohm and Power and was reading 19.4w with a 1.8ohm coil in the tank when that first came in for the 20w original. That was tried out when the pair of Nautilus Mini tanks arrived.

To still be able to use the 2200 battery Eleaf had to calculate what the draw would be at each wattage setting for the 30w and soon to be 50w as well as the present 20w and 10w mini models. The controller chip is now different as well as far as the RMS DC mode everyone has been yapping about for several posts on and off and on and off.
 

jefsview

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After a quick charge, it's still vaping superb.

The new top cap is nice and I enjoy the curve on the backend. I usually use my thumb to fire with my index finger holding onto the top end. The fire button has a bit of play like the previous versions.

Looking out for the phantom click now. Ever present in the 20W... so far, so good.
 

snow blind

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That would be an RDA or RBA and not something for everyone since a bit of manual dexterity is required similar to bench assembly in electronics as far as getting the wire looped and threaded into the posts. If you try using 32gauge super thin wire to get to 0.5ohms HAVE FUN! Most stick with 18-24 gauge!



When going from eGo-V V3 or V3 Mega battery to Vamo, MVP, VTR, Smok ACE aluminum version of Vamo, or any other box mod once having a Smok Groove II, or ? there always seems to be a slight difference noticed when moving the exact same tank around all set at 7w! Note that was with Smok Tumbler tanks with a 2ohm coil in use. That was without any form of external readings being taken but by the feel of the vape so to speak.

There always seemed to be a distinction to some extent but not by as much as you are seeing. It sounds like the amperage is effected where you are not seeing the true 7.5w at the output end and why adding on a pass through type meter that measures watts and ohmms would provide a much closer approximate of what you are actually seeing. Here I grabbed the Eleaf led Ohm and Power and was reading 19.4w with a 1.8ohm coil in the tank when that first came in for the 20w original. That was tried out when the pair of Nautilus Mini tanks arrived.

To still be able to use the 2200 battery Eleaf had to calculate what the draw would be at each wattage setting for the 30w and soon to be 50w as well as the present 20w and 10w mini models. The controller chip is now different as well as far as the RMS DC mode everyone has been yapping about for several posts on and off and on and off.

By RTA I'm referring to Rebuidable Tank Atomizer... Eg Kayfun, Orchid etc. I understand building isn't for everyone... I was simply poking fun at carto tank and pre-built users. Totally no hate... There are devices for everyone... Just havin a giggle:D
 

scaredmice

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Received my new 30W istick in blue from Evape.US!

While not quite the true full kit, it came in the simple Eleaf box that housed just the battery/mod and instructions. A USB cord and generic wall adapter (non-Eleaf adapter @ .5 amps) was supplied. A free sample liquid was also provided (Thanks, Evape.US!!).

First impressions: 510 threads are solid and smooth. My KFL+ sits flush and resistance read accurately.

It does not vape like the 20W.

On my test KFL, I set it at my desired wattage of 7.5 watts, reading 1.4 ohms, delivering 3.2 volts.
Use those same settings on the 30W, weaker vape.
Crank it up to 13.5 watts on the 30W, 4.2 volts -- perfect and smooth.

Not a scientific experiment, but just judging from taste.

So in my experience, Eleaf DID get it right this time. :toast:

Your experience seems to be really promising, for those who, like me, take some pleasure from this little appliances which not only look nice and they are fairly affordable, but they are also well engineered from every point of view (electronics included).

As a matter of fact, at the 3,2 V setting point that you reported the expected excess of power for a 20 W iStick is about 75 % (at full battery charge). You informed us about 80%, not bad for your taste buds.......:)

Apropos of the Smok and others VW, you must factor that many of the VW cannot go down a certain voltage, as a consequence of their electronics design. I.e., a DNA30 cannot supply less than 3,5 or 4,0 V (it depends of their version), not to mention the clones. So, if you put a low enough atomizer, a DNA30 will struggle to show the expected Ohm's law voltage at low power settings, but if it cannot, it won't (and it will seem also overpowered).

A genuine DNA30 shows this flashing the ohm-reading. Some clones enters in an indescribable PWM-like, definitively rattle-snaking as they struggle to low the voltage.... but at some point they will also fail. I do not know about the Smok mentioned before, but it could be this effect (also known as the lack of buckle-down voltage).

The promising fact about the iStick 20 W was not only its nice form factor and size and its powerful maximum output, coupled with a really decent endurance (battery life). It was also theoretically able to buckle-down to 3 V, something that a genuine DNA30 couldn't do.... at least on paper (and Joyetech videos......:)).

And all that jazz with only 36 € in my country........wow!

But the mean vs. RMS thing ruined that promise. Then the threads and the center pin thing. That was expected on this budget for a 1.0 version, though, but it was also easily addressable as the iSmoka/eLeaf engineers have proved with the 30W version. If the PWM/RMS-gate could be forgotten, now they have achieved a real game changer!

For those who got lost on all this techno-babble of RMS, mean, PWN and rattle-snakes, just consider how many are using the 20 W version: fixed with their clearomizers at 3,0 V! Funnily enough, at 3,0 V a 20 W throws away 4,15 V.....like a good mechanical with its battery topped!


But it maintains quite well that push over the battery life and it remains being the 'itty-bitty nice little cute thing', so all of us (me the first one) forgave this.......:laugh:
 
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snow blind

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Forgive me if this has already been posted, but this is the first time I'm seeing any sort of review for the istick 50:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_m8Sjq2izk

Twisted's first impressions and the side by side of the 50w were a nice little first look... def helped nudge me to pre-ordering the other day. It's the size of a vapor shark 30watt... but packing better specs (aside from the whole RMS debate etc.).
 

Kyi

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I think a great intro RBA/RTA is the Kayfun mini. I just picked up another from Angelcigs for about $22 shipped. Make sure you get the Ivogo one as I believe it is the best clone. I've had trouble getting a good build on other RBAs I've bought but I always get a great vape on the mini. Maybe it's because its small and you can't really do too much to screw it up? I find it very easy to build on as well. It doesn't hold a ton of liquid but it has adjustable airflow and it's great for a casual vaper who doesn't need a gigantic tank with 5+mls and dual/quad core options.

Looks like Twisted's device has the rattley buttons. Anyone else experiencing this with their 30? I'm not sure why they improved almost everything from the 20 but made the buttons this way. Oh well.. I'll live.
 

aldenf

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Here we go gang. Got the iStick 30W in the mail today.

This is simply an unboxing. I'll give you my first impressions tomorrow. (Hint: Thus far, I'm liking it very much.)

Packaging from evape.us received in good condition.




Contents of package: Eleaf Box, generic USB cable, generic USB power adapter, free 10ml e-liquid, invoice.




Closeup of hardware:




USB adapter only supplies 500mA. Fortunately, I have several 1A-2.5A wall-worts and a USB charging station.




Closeup of Eleaf box:




Contents of Eleaf box: just 30W iStick and manual. There was no 510-eGo adapter included. I have three already.




iStick 30W. My shop seems to be a bit dusty...




Next to the iStick 20W. Notice "30W" is only printed on one side of the enclosure.












Some of the 30watter's new family.




Except for the top cap, the 20 & 30 watters appear physically identical, rattly fire button and all. :glare:

Give me a day or so to use it and get some numbers. I'm too busy to type anymore... :vapor:


ETA: Big thumbs for evape.us. Ordered the 30watter on Monday just before noon. Received it today (Wednesday) about 1pm. Was not expecting a USB cable, adapter or free e-liquid. And the price was great @ $33.99 shipped.
 
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