Received my new 30W istick in blue from Evape.US!
While not quite the true full kit, it came in the simple Eleaf box that housed just the battery/mod and instructions. A USB cord and generic wall adapter (non-Eleaf adapter @ .5 amps) was supplied. A free sample liquid was also provided (Thanks, Evape.US!!).
First impressions: 510 threads are solid and smooth. My KFL+ sits flush and resistance read accurately.
It does not vape like the 20W.
On my test KFL, I set it at my desired wattage of 7.5 watts, reading 1.4 ohms, delivering 3.2 volts.
Use those same settings on the 30W, weaker vape.
Crank it up to 13.5 watts on the 30W, 4.2 volts -- perfect and smooth.
Not a scientific experiment, but just judging from taste.
So in my experience, Eleaf DID get it right this time.
Your experience seems to be really promising, for those who, like me, take some pleasure from this little appliances which not only look nice and they are fairly affordable, but they are also well engineered from every point of view (electronics included).
As a matter of fact, at the 3,2 V setting point that you reported the expected excess of power for a 20 W iStick is about 75 % (at full battery charge). You informed us about 80%, not bad for your taste buds.......
Apropos of the Smok and others VW, you must factor that many of the VW cannot go down a certain voltage, as a consequence of their electronics design. I.e., a DNA30 cannot supply less than 3,5 or 4,0 V (it depends of their version), not to mention the clones. So, if you put a low enough atomizer, a DNA30 will struggle to show the expected Ohm's law voltage at low power settings, but if it cannot, it won't (and it will seem also overpowered).
A genuine DNA30 shows this flashing the ohm-reading. Some clones enters in an indescribable PWM-like, definitively rattle-snaking as they struggle to low the voltage.... but at some point they will also fail. I do not know about the Smok mentioned before, but it could be this effect (also known as the lack of buckle-down voltage).
The promising fact about the iStick 20 W was not only its nice form factor and size and its powerful maximum output, coupled with a really decent endurance (battery life). It was also theoretically able to buckle-down to 3 V, something that a genuine DNA30 couldn't do.... at least on paper (and Joyetech videos......

).
And all that jazz with only 36 € in my country........wow!
But the mean vs. RMS thing ruined that promise. Then the threads and the center pin thing. That was expected on this budget for a 1.0 version, though, but it was also easily addressable as the iSmoka/eLeaf engineers have proved with the 30W version. If the PWM/RMS-gate could be forgotten, now they have achieved a real game changer!
For those who got lost on all this techno-babble of RMS, mean, PWN and rattle-snakes, just consider how many are using the 20 W version: fixed with their clearomizers at 3,0 V! Funnily enough, at 3,0 V a 20 W throws away 4,15 V.....like a good mechanical with its battery topped!
But it maintains quite well that push over the battery life and it remains being the 'itty-bitty nice little cute thing', so all of us (me the first one) forgave this.......
