Eleaf Lemo II
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Thanks for the advice and I've done this already. It wasn't the o-ring because the top cap stopped moving at all and the flooding gets worse after swap. But the my Lemo 2 is seems missing some o-rings. I don't have a chimney black o-ring and another one around an opening where chimney enters the top cap. There is no spares for these particular o-rings in my Lemo2 box.
Here is a picture from FT site (where I've got mine and the price drops,btw). Mine top cap even looks different inside.
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Not having the black oring on the chimney is the cause of the leaking. I used a driptip oring on my lemo 1 when i ran out of originals. It worked for me. Lube it with juice before assembly. It will be harder to screw top on but should work til you get the right ones.
There is no oring in the top cap where the top of the chimney enters it. The one on the end of the chimney(the one you are missing) is what seals it. The fastec picture looks like it has one but I believe its a shadow or camera effect.
I have at least two 20W Isticks that have positive pin issues. The simple fact that it fires fine on your 30 Watt says the problem has nothing to do with the Lemo.
The Lemo leaks for one of two reasons: Either a sealing issue due to worn/missing/damaged seals, or improper assembly, or it leaks due to inadequate wicking.
All of which is user error.
I have five Lemo's now, including two Lemo 2's. None have ever leaked a drop.
Just lucky, I guess.
This is why I only buy "new" items on eBay.
Even if it was user error and the device is working, all that manhandling probably made it defective.
My Lemo 2 has been very hit or miss, sadly. The last few months I was on medical leave and had started smoking again. I've since returned back to work and realized the Lemo 2 was released and immediately purchased one. It's almost important impossible to use high vg liquids, no matter what build I've done. Even with a 60vg 40pg it sort of struggles. I've since just been wicking it like I did my standard lemos, and it seems it needs a little break in time. Not very impressed at this point. It's just so damn finicky and it really bums me out 
once I get my ipv4 tomorroow I'll try a nickel build and see if it changes anything.
once I get my ipv4 tomorroow I'll try a nickel build and see if it changes anything.
Running 30/70 here Survivor and it's fine!
It does require proper wicking and making sure the openings of the juice channels are exposed to allow the juice to come up into the juice well. I run cotton in a 3 mm coil and cut the cotton so when you bend it down it barely touches the bottom of the juice well...soak it down and push it back away from the opening of the juice channel then pop the chimney on and assemble and fill.
Another note is that it will require suction for the tank to feed...unless you are giving it the full on lung hit you may need to dial down your airflow a touch to keep it feeding right. It likes sharp, crisp draws...definitely not for tootle-puffers
Like any "new" device, you can use prior experience to get close but it will require some experimentation to dial it in.
I played with one for over a week until I was completely satisfied with the results. It was "good" out of the box but got better with time.
It does require proper wicking and making sure the openings of the juice channels are exposed to allow the juice to come up into the juice well. I run cotton in a 3 mm coil and cut the cotton so when you bend it down it barely touches the bottom of the juice well...soak it down and push it back away from the opening of the juice channel then pop the chimney on and assemble and fill.
Another note is that it will require suction for the tank to feed...unless you are giving it the full on lung hit you may need to dial down your airflow a touch to keep it feeding right. It likes sharp, crisp draws...definitely not for tootle-puffers
Like any "new" device, you can use prior experience to get close but it will require some experimentation to dial it in.
I played with one for over a week until I was completely satisfied with the results. It was "good" out of the box but got better with time.
Well it seems to be wicking just fine now. I only wicked it last night and I also loosened it a bit, cause I may have had it too tight as well.
Well had quite the day today with my Lemo 2, Filled it up this morning, usual leaking but managed to get it cleaned up and working fine, got to work "NO ATOMIZER" on my iStick 30w, I changed the coil Sunday and it had been working fine. Luckily I always carry a backup and had an old Protank 3 which let me away today.
But got home today to investigate whats going on, gave all a good wash and clean out first. Made a coil with 26 Kantal through the bottom holes as it doesn't fit under the screws, 0.8Ohm, fired fine for a couple of times then the NO ATOMIZER again. I have used a Kayfun for the best part of a year with not 1 short, as far as the coil was concerned nothing was touching anything it shouldn't, did a bit more poking but could not get it to fire again.
Pulled that coil out and used my usual 28 Kantal under the screw, a build I have been doing for this past year, fired it up, the resistance was fluctuating from 1.3 to 1.8 and then the NO ATOMIZER. Something is badly wrong with my Lemo 2 somewhere, With leaking and now shorting its to unreliable.
Any ideas?
But got home today to investigate whats going on, gave all a good wash and clean out first. Made a coil with 26 Kantal through the bottom holes as it doesn't fit under the screws, 0.8Ohm, fired fine for a couple of times then the NO ATOMIZER again. I have used a Kayfun for the best part of a year with not 1 short, as far as the coil was concerned nothing was touching anything it shouldn't, did a bit more poking but could not get it to fire again.
Pulled that coil out and used my usual 28 Kantal under the screw, a build I have been doing for this past year, fired it up, the resistance was fluctuating from 1.3 to 1.8 and then the NO ATOMIZER. Something is badly wrong with my Lemo 2 somewhere, With leaking and now shorting its to unreliable.
Any ideas?
Sounds like connectivity with your mod.
Do you have a mech to test it with?
I have 4 Lemo2s here and run them alternately on two different mechs and have had zero connectivity issues.
Do you have a mech to test it with?
I have 4 Lemo2s here and run them alternately on two different mechs and have had zero connectivity issues.
I've had the exact same problem.
what i ended up doing was seperating the base where the AFC is from the base and unscrew the pin by a 1/4 turn and put everything back together.
It will fire fine for a day or 2 and then the vape will eventually get really warm. take it back apart, snug up that pin, and clean it off and make sure there's no juice on it. and back to original again
I emailed Eleaf and their answer was "keep checking the website".
Whenever I read "engrish" like this I become more positive that one day my vape gear is going to grenade in my face.
Well that is why I mostly look at stuff made in the US or Europe. I at least read German (not well but functional). So I do not have to worry if the item in question will be safe. That makes me nervous as well that the thing would explode.
Yeah, that black o-ring on the chimney is needed or you will get leaking. The other o-ring inside the lid I think is just a trick of light, mine does not have it, from the picture I think it is just the inner wall with a reflection of light coming off it making it look like a clear oring. It looks like you have no threading inside your top cap but that cannot be right or it would not stay together?
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