Evolv DNA 75

[Ed_C]

If the stupid self serving FDA did not gain control of our future, I'm sure the technology would advance to having real, live temperture feedback on mods and attys. Some argue that our FDA regs will not effect R&D but I'm not so sure, without the USA dollars flowing in, the Chinese companies may end up with less profits, and then the domino effect.

I imagine that there might be a pretty substantial drop in dollars for R&D initially, but I think world-wide usage of ecigs will continue to grow. ....and I'm still hopeful that all this will come out in the wash. I know my government has done some stupid things in the past, but I can't believe that a much safer alternative to smoking will be killed off for good. The more research that is done, the harder it will be to keep a lid on all this.

 

[h00ligan]

I am struggling as well with the sdna 75. Which is supposed to be tuned by him... The res jumps around all over the place and I just need to fight to get it to vape well.

Same here. Also id like to add it's way off rom literally every other device I own. Whether it's too high even though it's room temp or it settled at rest and sleep and then gets too low. It is all over he place and rarely correct. Unfortunately this is the same behavior inexperienced with dna200 mods. So clearly its intrinsic to the experience whether the chip logic or something I'm doing

Try different tanks. All 4 of my SDNA75's work as expected.

Unfortunately this is the response ice received for about a year. I personally have tried around 12 tanks with similar issues across he board. Bwhen evolv basically said the same thing to me I gave up on the 200. Because if I can't use 95% of my gear due to their tech not working with it. It's useless.

You can make the best thing in the world but if you can't make it work with most existing products. You're not making the best thing in he works anymore. You're making s finicky decide that is functionally almost useless.

If <--- yes if , the evolv chipsets are so sensitive they don't work with modern tanks n then they need to reconsider the super high sample rate etc. the worst case for me was the 200 lighting builds on fire.

I was really hopeful the new 75 chip with some time for refinement wouldn't have these issues.

I'm stil opens to the fact here may be fixes but when the resistance can't even be read accurately I don't see how anything else can work right.

Test atomizers

Authentics

Cloud one v2
Heron v2
Gem v1
Gem titanium
Taifun gt2
Kabuki 510 With triton mini nickel coils
Mark bugs chalice 3 (bfa used for resistance testing)

Clones - I won't list. There are five or six of them.

 

[h00ligan]

I imagine that there might be a pretty substantial drop in dollars for R&D initially, but I think world-wide usage of ecigs will continue to grow. ....and I'm still hopeful that all this will come out in the wash. I know my government has done some stupid things in the past, but I can't believe that a much safer alternative to smoking will be killed off for good. The more research that is done, the harder it will be to keep a lid on all this.

The Rda regs don't mean much when only 15% of cargo is screened. People in he USA will continue to order black market from China , a small percentage will be seized with no impact on the purchaser. The Chinese companies will resend and cover the losses. Prices may go up five percent to allow the same profit levels.


As long as the USA doesn't screen cargo properly there are a lot of ways around this. Including sending two shipments with parts in each. Rex etc.


Very little impact to the worldwide market. Big impact to American manufacturers and retail spaces. And much less tax revenue for the fed.

 

[BillW50]

That is really strange h00ligan. I have 10 DNA200 on my desk (three more stored) and I switch between them all of the time. And they are right on the money. Doesn't your graph look like this?

 

[h00ligan]

That is really strange h00ligan. I have 10 DNA200 on my desk (three more stored) and I switch between them all of the time. And they are right on the money. Doesn't your graph look like this?

Unfortunately no it doesn't. I'll get the laptop out and get some screens posted. Sorry I'm back to being super laid up so even typing the responses is difficult (why I have long ones )

I'll get more factual data for you guys with more experience to examine. I'll also go to a nife48 build as the temp Coefficient I believe is better than stainless. Seems to work better than nickel and titanium. I'll try s couple drinkers with different materials. Try tk get some days and post back.

Why would the smy read my resistance differently than other devices. From a cool master 510 to boxer mod to evic mini to provari radius and p3. It doesn't align with anything. And I don't get why an at rest atomizer that's been separated for hours when it is initially mounted registers at one resistance and then after being mounted settles down to almost .1 ohm less. Then after another sleep it's up .15.

It's just odd. I wonder if the fact I'm a mouth to lung vaper has to do with why. Because my builds are smaller wire and so forth.

 

[Ed_C]

The Rda regs don't mean much when only 15% of cargo is screened. People in he USA will continue to order black market from China , a small percentage will be seized with no impact on the purchaser. The Chinese companies will resend and cover the losses. Prices may go up five percent to allow the same profit levels.


As long as the USA doesn't screen cargo properly there are a lot of ways around this. Including sending two shipments with parts in each. Rex etc.


Very little impact to the worldwide market. Big impact to American manufacturers and retail spaces. And much less tax revenue for the fed.

This all depends on if your average ecig user thinks to, or is willing to, order overseas.

 

[BillW50]

It's just odd. I wonder if the fact I'm a mouth to lung vaper has to do with why. Because my builds are smaller wire and so forth.

Nope, I don't think so. Since I vape both MTL and DTL.

 

[h00ligan]

This all depends on if your average ecig user thinks to, or is willing to, order overseas.

Good point. Don't get me wrong it's a real shame. If they don't now. They will start. Bt the average users if we're honest is buying blue in the supermarket. Maybe a beginner setup at s vape shop. The liquids are going to be more impacted than hardware. And we do have over two years to change things before it gets so bad shops close. There are a LOT of devices out right now. And juices. If we stop developing new tech and refine what's out (same product ) and stick to existing juice line. Most could vape happily for a while. However in just over two years when they actually pull everything since 2007/8? People will have a real
Issue. I can only hope stage one hammers home the need for advocacy.


Furthermore if we're honest. Shouldn't we all be only buying from companies that support vaping in the USA via lobbying contributions. Education. Etc. ? Buying cheap mods made in China from companies who may be around for six months is a fast way to ensure our destruction. I am guilty as much as anyone. But I also junk this smy is the last piece of hardware I buy if the company isn't active in activism. Too many good companies are and is rather pay twice as much to support us companies or companies that support vaping in the USA.

I'd love a list. Right now provape are he only mod maker I can think of really contributing back.

How long have smy been in business. ? I've never heard of them before this. Do aspire and kanger give back to the vaping community in the USA ?

 

[Mactavish]

Same here. Also id like to add it's way off rom literally every other device I own. Whether it's too high even though it's room temp or it settled at rest and sleep and then gets too low. It is all over he place and rarely correct. Unfortunately this is the same behavior inexperienced with dna200 mods. So clearly its intrinsic to the experience whether the chip logic or something I'm doing



Unfortunately this is the response ice received for about a year. I personally have tried around 12 tanks with similar issues across he board. Bwhen evolv basically said the same thing to me I gave up on the 200. Because if I can't use 95% of my gear due to their tech not working with it. It's useless.

You can make the best thing in the world but if you can't make it work with most existing products. You're not making the best thing in he works anymore. You're making s finicky decide that is functionally almost useless.

If <--- yes if , the evolv chipsets are so sensitive they don't work with modern tanks n then they need to reconsider the super high sample rate etc. the worst case for me was the 200 lighting builds on fire.

I was really hopeful the new 75 chip with some time for refinement wouldn't have these issues.

I'm stil opens to the fact here may be fixes but when the resistance can't even be read accurately I don't see how anything else can work right.

Test atomizers

Authentics

Cloud one v2
Heron v2
Gem v1
Gem titanium
Taifun gt2
Kabuki 510 With triton mini nickel coils
Mark bugs chalice 3 (bfa used for resistance testing)

Clones - I won't list. There are five or six of them.

Wish I could be of more help. I don't own any of the tanks you do, so my experiences is obviously of no help. As far as ohm drifting, indeed if it's not solid to begin with then TC is going to suck. I bought the expensive original KayFun v5. The ohms jumped all over the place. It was just released and everyone else was have a great time with theirs. I took it apart, back together it seemed good for awhile, then it acted up again, so I thought let me make the 510 bottom pin even tighter, as perhaps it gets loose when putting tanks on and off. That solved the issue on that tank, and was confirmed by later users.

Another ohm drifting issue was on my Merlin tank, this was fairly easy to find, the post screw had become loose, so the Notch coil was showing different ohms.

Most of my other tanks are the ones using pre-made coils, and I bought any RBA's I could find, so when pre-builds go the way of the dinosaurs, thanks to the US FDA, I can still use them. Other then a few bad pre-made coils, I have not had any ohms issues, tanks like; Kanger Subtanks, Eleaf Melo, Eleaf LYCHE, Joyetech Cubis, etc. I own certain tanks that by their design are not suited for TC. Seems like you know your stuff, so if it's not the tanks, and you've ruled out the DNA mods, then it's truly a mystery to me.

 

[h00ligan]

Wish I could be of more help. I don't own any of the tanks you do, so my experiences is obviously of no help. As far as ohm drifting, indeed if it's not solid to begin with then TC is going to suck. I bought the expensive original KayFun v5. The ohms jumped all over the place. It was just released and everyone else was have a great time with theirs. I took it apart, back together it seemed good for awhile, then it acted up again, so I thought let me make the 510 bottom pin even tighter, as perhaps it gets loose when putting tanks on and off. That solved the issue on that tank, and was confirmed by later users.

Another ohm drifting issue was on my Merlin tank, this was fairly easy to find, the post screw had become loose, so the Notch coil was showing different ohms.

Most of my other tanks are the ones using pre-made coils, and I bought any RBA's I could find, so when pre-builds go the way of the dinosaurs, thanks to the US FDA, I can still use them. Other then a few bad pre-made coils, I have not had any ohms issues, tanks like; Kanger Subtanks, Eleaf Melo, Eleaf LYCHE, Joyetech Cubis, etc. I own certain tanks that by their design are not suited for TC. Seems like you know your stuff, so if it's not the tanks, and you've ruled out the DNA mods, then it's truly a mystery to me.

I haven't really ruled out he dna mods except the 510. For sure w few of those aren't great temp
Control. Ironically the Taifun gt2 is one of the worst but it is working the best right now. The gems aren't good for evolv mods. Too much variance. The c1 shouldn't have much of an issue base on the design. Though the positive pin mates with a receiving bracket and doesn't go all the way through.

The heron has lux contacts. Should be rock solid.


I need to educate myself more on the dna and get evolve troubleshooting going. Once inhabe real data we can figure it out. I appreciate your help. And sorry I have not brought hard data yet. I will.

 

[Ed_C]

Unfortunately no it doesn't. I'll get the laptop out and get some screens posted. Sorry I'm back to being super laid up so even typing the responses is difficult (why I have long ones )

I'll get more factual data for you guys with more experience to examine. I'll also go to a nife48 build as the temp Coefficient I believe is better than stainless. Seems to work better than nickel and titanium. I'll try s couple drinkers with different materials. Try tk get some days and post back.

Why would the smy read my resistance differently than other devices. From a cool master 510 to boxer mod to evic mini to provari radius and p3. It doesn't align with anything. And I don't get why an at rest atomizer that's been separated for hours when it is initially mounted registers at one resistance and then after being mounted settles down to almost .1 ohm less. Then after another sleep it's up .15.

It's just odd. I wonder if the fact I'm a mouth to lung vaper has to do with why. Because my builds are smaller wire and so forth.

You're talking hundredths of an ohm. Do you really expect any vape to have a resolution greater than +- 0.1 ohm? I'd be surprised.

 

[BillW50]

You're talking hundredths of an ohm. Do you really expect any vape to have a resolution greater than +- 0.1 ohm? I'd be surprised.

DNAs read down to a 1000th of an ohm. For accuracy, you need that kind of resolution. Just look at my earlier graph I posted.

 

[Ed_C]

DNAs read down to a 1000th of an ohm. For accuracy, you need that kind of resolution. Just look at my earlier graph I posted.

Just because you supply three digits to the right of the decimal, that doesn't mean that's your accuracy. Does Evolv make any claims as to their accuracy?

 

[KTMRider]

Just because you supply three digits to the right of the decimal, that doesn't mean that's your accuracy. Does Evolv make any claims as to their accuracy?

Actually, it does.

 

[BillW50]

Just because you supply three digits to the right of the decimal, that doesn't mean that's your accuracy. Does Evolv make any claims as to their accuracy?

We users (and manufactures) use it to test the internal resistance of our mods. We screw in a copper plug into our 510. Anything lower than 0.005 is good. Anything higher than 0.005 is going to interfere with temperature control.

Calibration Tool for DNA200 Devices $11 + FS in US
SmokeFreeMods

Calibration Tool for DNA200 Devices £8.99 UK £10.99 Shipping
Calibration Tool for DNA200

 

[Ed_C]

I looked on the DNA data sheet. Where did you see that?

 

[BillW50]

I looked on the DNA data sheet. Where did you see that?

See what? 0.005? It is often talked about on the Evolv forum. Although most people use 0.006.

 

[Ed_C]

We users (and manufactures) use it to test the internal resistance of our mods. We screw in a copper plug into our 510. Anything lower than 0.005 is good. Anything higher than 0.005 is going to interfere with temperature control.

Calibration Tool for DNA200 Devices $11 + FS in US
SmokeFreeMods

Calibration Tool for DNA200 Devices £8.99 UK £10.99 Shipping
Calibration Tool for DNA200

OK, but that doesn't speak to the accuracy of the board. That's what the board is reading for internal resistance of the board plus other components. To know how accurate it is, you'd need to compare it to some very accurate standard. Even an expensive, calibrated DMM doesn't have that kind of accuracy. I'm not an expert in electronics, so maybe I'm wrong.

 

[retird]

@BillW50 .... looking at the graph you posted.... I'm curious as to what coil/coil material you are running @550F with 20 Watts?

 

[BillW50]

@BillW50 .... looking at the graph you posted.... I'm curious as to what coil/coil material you are running @550F with 20 Watts?

Oh I run Subtanks and Crowns RBAs by MTL at 20 watts, but once they hit temperature they settle down to 7 to 9 watts. Normally I mostly run most of mine between 440 to 460F. Although when they need to be rebuilt and cleaned, I need to bump them up in temp since the gunk on the coils isn't transferring all of the heat to the juice. Normally I clean them before getting up to 550F though.