Evolv Technology Owners Discussion Thread

[finagle69]

My assumption is that running even upwards of 500F would not be a problem due to the wick being somewhat wet to protect it. I'd figure you'd notice a flavor drop-off due to it not being fully saturated, which should be your clue to either drip more or sort out why your tank isn't wicking.

 

[snork]

I much prefer silica over any other wicking material. It'll be interesting to see what temperature will work best for me - my goal will be as low as possible.

 

[BigBen01]

One other question.. This is a picture of the coil I just wrapped. It is 28 gauge nickel 200. Its obviously going to have some shorts in it due to the gaps. It is my understanding I cannot torch it to compress. How do I elevate the hot spots in my coil?

 

[dr g]

I am not well versed on cotton, but several of the beta testers used cotton very successfully.

Here is a photo from (I think) Gdeal where he tested dry (no juice) cotton at different temps. Not sure what kind of cotton though.

It's worth noting that that is a bone dry test ...one you add liquid it never really gets that dry again and can tolerate a bit more temperature before charring

One other question.. This is a picture of the coil I just wrapped. It is 28 gauge nickel 200. Its obviously going to have some shorts in it due to the gaps. It is my understanding I cannot torch it to compress. How do I elevate the hot spots in my coil?

View attachment 382290

Don't assume it will have shorts in it. Try it.
But you can also pinch it by hand.

 

[Katya]

One other question.. This is a picture of the coil I just wrapped. It is 28 gauge nickel 200. Its obviously going to have some shorts in it due to the gaps. It is my understanding I cannot torch it to compress. How do I elevate the hot spots in my coil?

So how many wraps is that and what resistance did you get?

 

[suspectK]

There's some trouble convincing many on another forum the benefit of this chip...so this is my first attempt at this (going to redo it later with an extra set of hands).

PITA..and my camera is mainly for electrical and other lower temp applications, so temp cuts off at 320..so not the best...I inverted the pallet, but anyone with expertise with IR imaging, feel free to point out your issues with it..I push electricity into electrical apparatuses while measuring data..so this isn't my field...and it was hard to keep the points on a plane..camera on table turned out to be harder...

----All images of parallel dual vertical 28awg kanthal "parallel"/dual wire coil on origen, at approximately 41 Watts-device minimum 3.6 Volts---

This is an image about 3seconds after I released fire button(this isn't a benefit to dna 40 chip, but it shows how long it takes for heat to disperse).

And about 1.5minutes later. .

And I forgot to plot a point for temperature measurement before I inverted the pallet, and used the high contrast version of the old-school, "Predator" rainbow vision..I'll experiment more later...I may just use gray, and I'll plot points for temperature EVERYWHERE..

But here's a saturated wick. . This camera likes to screw with me sometimes..lags and doesn't capture image...well worth $15k..

And there would be an image with dry wicks..but as soon as camera stopped screwing around, wicks burst into flames..

No wicks..wobbly hands. . . I've got it packed to go home with me though.

Yeah...a lot of free time here..and doing stuff like this is better than me screwing around online.

Edit- actually, redoing it would just be another waste of time, with only 320* Fahrenheit max.. let me know what you think..cuz that's what I think after the thought.
Ediedit- It isn't maxed out at 320.. the scale is..so I can't do it how I want it.lol. I'll be back when we make a proper version.

 

[suspectK]

Ok...camera was acting funky with video..getting it looked at by someone on base.

But I figured I needed to put up images that are worthwhile...but screwed up. Didn't realize I was at 50 Watts until I hit mod while posting this on other forum.

Same build..same juice...but full scale..rusty with the camera/life.

Just a little juice in origen..started to dry at 2nd shot.. just barely caught the 3rd shot.

That's a little ghettoish..but much better.

Edit- I don't have anything else but IPV2 for regulated..cheap, but I'm getting the pos from preorder replaced, so at least there's that..pretty B.A. righchair.. Don't let this fancy equipment fool you. I'm poor. Lol. Won't have a DNA40 unless there's a coop when I'm not getting "forcefully taken" by bills.. (politically correct)

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Disclaimer: As an owner of a wonky DNA40 (that i actually still love) and frequenter of the heated Cana 30 threads(like the OP) many months ago, i feel i can make this statement:

It is extremely telling that the 2 biggest Evolv fans on ECF have strangely disappeared since it's become blatantly obvious the DNA 40 wasn't quite ready for action and evolv released it a bit too early (yes, i understand why they chose to).

 

[DejayRezme]

Disclaimer: As an owner of a wonky DNA40 (that i actually still love) and frequenter of the heated Cana 30 threads(like the OP) many months ago, i feel i can make this statement:

It is extremely telling that the 2 biggest Evolv fans on ECF have strangely disappeared since it's become blatantly obvious the DNA 40 wasn't quite ready for action and evolv released it a bit too early (yes, i understand why they chose to).

#shotsfired ?

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

#shotsfired ?

LOL, nope, just bothered me that they crucified me and other Cana 30 clones owners/the clone chip(obv not a great chip, but works) when they first came out, now when Evolv obviously screws up, they're NOWHERE to be found.

I honestly have a great deal of respect for Evolv and genuinely feel bad for them, they wouldn't have rushed this board to market if the regulatory climate hadn't essentially forced them to.

I think the 40/TC are the future, so much so i don't want to part with my DNA40 long enough to have it repaired/replaced.

 

[ukeman]

You can take your shots for whatever reasons, but I ordered w/in the first minute of sale (Flask40).
I've had zero issues with it and a week later bought an issue-free XPV40.

I have been haunting virtually every DNA40 thread here, and for the most part, most who've had issues have gotten them replaced and continued on with them.

Just got to say I feel for those with issues; either in the chip itself or those that have trouble using it in the first place.
I don't care to know every aspect of how it functions and I see folks getting hung up in details of using Ni200 and what temp should and shouldn't be used.
I just go by basically what i've seen in the youtube vids and have been happy with every single coil that i've built to date.
I do use single coil atomizers and change coils every few days because I like to test the limits of temp/watt but man I am stoked with it....

 

[BlueSnake]

Fact:

Evolv sent out 10% bad boards. This is what Evolv is reporting themselves as I have spoken to them. Was it their fault? Probably not. A supplier sent them a bad batch of PCBs. I'm not an electrical engineer so I have no idea if Evolv had a way to know that before they used the bad PCBs to build with. They are replacing all the bad boards with new ones.

 

[herb]

I haven't followed the DNA 40 stuff much but from the stuff i have read , it seems most bring up it is great at eliminating dry hits and burnt juice . This must only be an issue for newbies or people who go really low on the builds because i can't recall a single instance ( no joke) of getting a dry hit or burning my juice.

I use a few different RDA's but my builds tend to be higher than most so maybe thats the reason. Now, if i did experience dry hits and burnt juice i would definitely be interested in this but if you wick correctly and build right i don't know how you can have these problems.

I think e cig tech is getting more complicated than it needs to be .



Of course just my opinion

 

[DejayRezme]

The main advantage of temperature protection IMHO is that you get a more controlled and reproducible vape. The no dry hit is nice but the main advantage is that the quality of your vape is better and "cleaner". And you can do more with it. If you like cold vape you can do that. If you like hot vape you can do that too.

But you're right atm it's are bit more complicated than kanthal builds because of connectivity issues and the low resistance of nickel forcing you to build larger coils with thinner wire. Titanium wire seems to work awesome though.

 

[BlueSnake]

The main advantage of temperature protection IMHO is that you get a more controlled and reproducible vape. The no dry hit is nice but the main advantage is that the quality of your vape is better and "cleaner". And you can do more with it. If you like cold vape you can do that. If you like hot vape you can do that too.

But you're right atm it's are bit more complicated than kanthal builds because of connectivity issues and the low resistance of nickel forcing you to build larger coils with thinner wire. Titanium wire seems to work awesome though.

If Aspire and Kanger come out with NR coils that will make the temp control accessible and easy for everyone. It's not just about dry hits it's also about not overheating your juice thereby creating a better safer vape. The DNA40 is just the first step toward a safer vape experience which is very important for the vaping industry given the current scrutiny the industry is now facing.

 

[KTMRider]

If Aspire and Kanger come out with NR coils that will make the temp control accessible and easy for everyone. It's not just about dry hits it's also about not overheating your juice thereby creating a better safer vape. The DNA40 is just the first step toward a safer vape experience which is very important for the vaping industry given the current scrutiny the industry is now facing.

Aspire, Kanger and Innokin are all coming out with Ni200 coils. I'm sure others will follow.

 

[armadillo]

It is remarkable how marketing works... The DNA40 does not "control" temperature at all. It simply measures the resistance of the coil while delivering a current to the coil and calculates the temperature based on the resistance change. If the calculated temperature exceeds the setting you provide, it will reduce the current. Unless you experience frequent dry hits, you won't notice a thing, since the DNA is not a magical taste-enhancing chip. Think of it as a switch in your car that won't let you drive faster than the maximal speed you consider safe.

 

[DejayRezme]

If you take the car analogy you would have to imagine a mod with an analogue watt control that you constantly adjust during vaping, high at first then adjust constantly according to airflow and wicking etc to keep the temp at your preferred taste. You can be sure that changes your vape experience! Of course you're right it's not "necessary" but you just have more optional control.


Back to the car analogy, it would be like driving a car where you can put different sizes of bricks on the pedal. The more your brick weighs the faster you accelerate. While driving you can only put the brick fully on or take it off and cannot account for what kind of speed limit or the slope of the road you're driving. I'm pretty sure you'd have trouble driving your car without getting speeding tickets (=small dry hits)!

 

[vaptamist]

It is remarkable how marketing works... The DNA40 does not "control" temperature at all. It simply measures the resistance of the coil while delivering a current to the coil and calculates the temperature based on the resistance change. If the calculated temperature exceeds the setting you provide, it will reduce the current. Unless you experience frequent dry hits, you won't notice a thing, since the DNA is not a magical taste-enhancing chip. Think of it as a switch in your car that won't let you drive faster than the maximal speed you consider safe.

I'm glad you figured out the very thing that Evolv lists on their product page, openly for everyone to see. What's your point?

 

[armadillo]

Just read some of the posts on this thread...