I assume that is NI200 wire. What gauge and what resistance? I'd think you'd need quite a bit for say an 0.2 Ω coil.
Yes NI200 30g - .19 ohms
I assume that is NI200 wire. What gauge and what resistance? I'd think you'd need quite a bit for say an 0.2 Ω coil.
I'd love love love to see the DNA40 in the form factor of the istick. The smaller apv's are great for peeps with smaller size hands and to have the correct temp'd flavors with the nice power for vape would make a win win in my playbook. (I'm not saying higher watts cause I don't need the watts just warmth and clouds)
Just curious: for the rebuilder's that have built their coils and used the DNA40,...have you noticed cleaner coils after use? I know that the cotton (etc) is no longer being burnt and that it will depend on the ejuice being used but I can't help but to wonder if the coils are actually lasting even longer. How often are you needing to change out the wicks and the coils?
Also never used the nickel wire (except for leg's in the diverv2) so do you heat the coil to clean?
Assume you saw Pbsardo's vid--Brandon mentioned several PVs that will have the new board,
(He mentioned Vaporshark which have the DNA models that are prolly pretty close to istick size.)
I just posted this in another thread but thought I would share it here. This is my coil/wick after about a week or so of daily vaping on the new board. (~50ml?). The atty is on a squonker and I can tell you that I often forget to squonk. Typically, if I squonk dry, the wick is toast. Here the board automatically throttles down and vapor production diminishes. The temp stays below the char point, so the wick is unaffected. But what I thought was interesting is the minimal build up on the coil and wick. There is slight carmelization on the coil and bleeding into the wick, but no real gunk. On my other builds (non-temp limited) this would be a hot mess.
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I am so pleased that Evolv has been thinking in terms of safety, satisfying regulatory/health concerns and what constitutes a pleasurable vaping experience rather than losing their way down the mindless rabbit hole of increasingly irrelevant levels of power. I'm actually most excited about the less expensive 25 watt chip and pre made coils Brandon discussed in his interview with Phil. One would reasonably expect vaping success stories to increase dramatically if dry hits can be made to be a thing of the past in affordable gear.
Armadillo. I am a 8.0-9.0 watts vaper. I see the need for the DNA40. I have had cotton wicks burn for several reasons (mostly me). I believe that it only makes sense that the ecig evolve into a better and safe(r) experience (no pun intended). I've been a vaper for many years, seen the good and the bad and I'll always be wanting the better/safer especially for a new vaper and the experienced vaper.
Assume you saw Pbsardo's vid--Brandon mentioned several PVs that will have the new board,
(He mentioned Vaporshark which have the DNA models that are prolly pretty close to istick size.)
You're entitled to your opinion of course, armadillo. If you want to buy and support cheap China boards that "work well enough" (that statement alone says a lot about your mind set and your take on safe vaping), that's your option.
With the DNA40 and temp mode, it's about taste and vapor volume and most importantly, safe vaping.
The temp mode of the DNA40 protects the taste of juice and prevents juice degradation. What this means is:
-no burnt wick
-no dry hits
-no questionable products in the juice
-safe vaping from harmful components
-enhanced flavor and taste
You set the temp for taste - above the boiling point of the juice, but below the char point of the wick = win-win for not only safe vaping, but great flavor and taste.
Power (wattage) with temp mode is set for vapor volume/hit.
I'm vaping at 400F @ 25W and getting the full flavor from my juice with no burnt taste, no dry hits, and way more clouds than my room can handle.
If you can get any of that with your cheap China boards, I wish you well.![]()
Most smokers exceeded the cost of a DNA mod in 2-3 cartons of smokes. It's simply not true that people do not have this budget, almost everyone can make it happen, they just choose not to. But if a device offers something truly special, that changes the equation.
I had as many burnt hits if not more vaping low wattage consumer gear than vaping rebuildables at high wattage. TIny wire, poor wicking = high chance of burn and less life. I've been thinking a carto with this technology would be awesome, since so many die from burning the diaper/wicking.
Kat-Ya, I believe he said it was a 'new' Opus... I haven't kept on on them, so....![]()
A karto with "this" technology - as of yet we have none, correct? Perhaps that's also a future product along with Aspire Nickel Coils?
That Opus (?) that Brandon had in his hand looked very small. Or was is a Vaporshark?
Unless OPUS has a model with the display "pager-style" on the bottom--I think it was a VS
Yep, I believe it's a Vaporshark.
Quite possibly, if/when your wick can't keep up, like when your wick starts to get gunked up.Okay, I think I need some education here, since I don't really understand how this is going to help me as a low-wattage vaper using tanks that never run dry, because I can see the juice level and fill the tank when needed. Would I ever reach a temperature in which the chip would activate?
Depends what it's made of. Silica doesn't burn at all. Cellulose (cotton or rayon) begins to char somewhere north of 400F.Finally, at what temperatures do wicks burn when dry?
As long as the coil remains wet, it remains cool. When it begins to dry out, it will get hotter.And how would the chip know when the coil is dry?
I watched the video again...
It's a new Opus.![]()
Yeah, me too.... but only to give an ever so slight glance at the Brando.![]()
Yeah, me too.... but only to give an ever so slight glance at the Brando.![]()
Shhhh...............
I know.
Bad girl!
Who, moi?
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