Facts about dry burning SS 316L

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DaveP

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I dry burn lightly at 10W when I rewick. Once the coil shows a dull red glow and smoke rises from the burned crud I dunk it under the faucet. If it's not smooth after that, it gets trashed and replaced. There's no reason to keep on using a rough coil. I get a month or two out of a coil and then it's done.

What is the melting point of 316 stainless steel
The melting point of 316 stainless steel is in the 1375-1400°C range.
 
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DaveP

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This short article is interesting.

Know Temperature when metal glows red | Hearth.com Forums Home
How to tell what temperature a glowing object (metals) might be:

It doesn't really matter what the emitter is...stainless steel, cast iron, tungsten in your light bulb, the temps are about the same for a given color. Generally accepted colors/temps are:

::C ----- ::F ---- Color
400 -- 752 -- Red heat, visible in the dark
474 -- 885 -- Red heat, visible in the twilight
525 -- 975 -- Red heat, visible in the daylight
581 -- 1077 - Red heat, visible in the sunlight
700 -- 1292 - Dark red
800 -- 1472 - Dull cherry-red
900 -- 1652 - Cherry-red
1000 - 1832 - Bright cherry-red
1100 - 2012 - Orange-red

C= Centigrade
F= Farenheit

metal-color-temp-chart-png.100306
 

DaveP

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We have a built in safety net.

I set the mod to low watts, around 10 does ok. I forgot to drop the watts down once and watched my coil pop in about half a second.

10W is a good range for dry burning, but it's still close to melt range according to the charts.
 
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MacTechVpr

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I only concentrate on heating the crud. I find a dark place so I can see the best I can if the coil goes dull red. Took some practice, but I have it now that I can get the crud to glow and not the wire....well mostly :p

Yes, agree and it makes seeing subtle deposits that might easily be left behind more apparent. Particularly on the inside (of non-vert's) where such can wreak havoc on convection, distort wire, etc.

Really fond of needle gauge bottles and DI used at even lower power to loosen and blow off obvious accretion with steam (industrial level solution). These larger solids tend to loosen once steamed and easily are flaked of with some encouragement from the needle tip. Then hazard higher wire temps only to clear persistent more general deposition and test wire uniformity. The needle makes short work of it all.

Remember, gingerly.

Good luck. :)
 

Rossum

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SS is basically iron, not going to release anything toxic when brought to incandescence.
Stainless steel, almost by definition, contains at least 10.5% chromium, and 316L is 16-18% chromium. The chromium content is what makes it rust-resistant; it forms a thin passivization layer of trivalent chromium oxide that protects the metal.

The catch is: If you get chromium (or its trivalent oxide) hot enough, it can form hexavalent chromium compounds, which you really don't want in your vape. Unfortunately, it's not entirely clear is what the maximum safe temperature is, before this can begin to happen.

Personally I really doubt it's a problem at normal dry-burning (red) temperatures.

Oh, and FWIW: Kanthal A1 (which nobody thinks twice about dry-burning) contains 20% chromium..
 

Alien Traveler

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Yeah I wonder at what temp does gunk burn...? :D
Maybe we need some parameters for that to..:p
Organic "gunk" burns out at not really high temperatures (like 1600 F), it transforms to an inorganic residue, which is impossible to burn out at temperatures we use for our dry burn. I believe these remnants of juice (and cotton?) are harmless, but in my humble opinion they they do influence the taste. So, I do not dry burn my coils more than twice (too much of build up of inorganic coating on coils, I think). My opinion is based on observation of my coils under electron microscope.
 

Alien Traveler

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I think what they are saying is that the oxodized layer created by dry burning is toxic and can get into the vapor.
Wrong.
I think what happens is once the ss wire has been dryburn it gets damaged. As a natural defense ss then releases toxins to try to defend itself from ever being dry burned again. It’s a natural reaction and I think stainless steel is the only metal that has this particular defense mechanism.
Very wrong.
The watts range for dry burning is going to vary WILDLY depending on the material, resistance, and mass of the coil.
Yes. Color, not watts, gives us guidance to a temperature of dry burning.
 

madstabber

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Wrong.

Very wrong.

You think I’m very wrong?!?!?!?!
So are you telling me that ss wire LIKES to be burn. Nothing and I mean NOTHING likes to be burned. Ss wire is no different from anything else, if you try to burn it, it will strike back. Just like anything else. Except lava, lava doesn’t like to get wet. If you do try to get lava wet it spits on you. But that’s the only exception. Lava......
 
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