fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

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zygote

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bought some of the 116 last week, tried sleeving a 7/64 ceramic. It wasn't easy to fit it over but eventually did. now it was pretty thick and it made for a very high resistance compared to my usual. in the end it didn't work for me, should of done what you said and just used some of the threads, but this sounds just like the cheese cloth? any difference?

Never used cheese cloth or silica I was afraid of the fibers ending up in my lungs, the ceramic still gives a cleaner vape than the Nextel so I figured the combo, (espesically since as you stated, hot wraping a shorty is a .....) would work well, so I would say same principle as the cotton or a small piece of mesh, it does kinda defeat the ceramic as a ceramic wick but it works pretty good and I think it gives some stability to the ceramic, the ceramic is going to stay in my line up for sure, and they will start out as all ceramic, when they break now I can extend their use.
 

ricks

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How many have you broke? I've only broken 2 so far. With the broken ones, I roll some SS mesh to the bottom and they work great.
PS: the Nextel does give a rope, muted taste to your juice IMO, as I DIY I compensate by adding more flavoring to my mixes, ceramic for the win........oops broke another one lol :lol: :vapor:
 

Equality 7-2521

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PS: the Nextel does give a rope, muted taste to your juice IMO, as I DIY I compensate by adding more flavoring to my mixes, ceramic for the win........oops broke another one lol :lol: :vapor:
I agree I tried nextel, and the flavor does jump to the front, and is distinctive, but there is this for the lack of a better word"rope" flavor that was a turn off........this .......ned ceramic wick ruins you for anything else. As for breaking wicks...when we all started using ceramic wicks we were snapping them all the time once you get the hang of it....you suddenly realize you can't remember the last time you snapped a wick.
 
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zygote

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How many have you broke? I've only broken 2 so far. With the broken ones, I roll some SS mesh to the bottom and they work great.

I've broken about about 6-7 so far, same way as Yail, when out side I put the APV in my pocket, knock the cap off, they tip over, You name it I have no luck, i'm going to try some mesh-thanx. I think it might have something to do with the top lead to the pos. post being to tight?
 

zygote

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I agree I tried nextel, and the flavor does jump to the front, and is distinctive, but there is this for the lack of a better word"rope" flavor that was a turn off........this .......ned ceramic wick ruins you for anything else. As for breaking wicks...when we all started using ceramic wicks we were snapping them all the time once you get the hang of it....you suddenly realize you can't remember the last time you snapped a wick.

Yupp! The shortys seem to be "stronger" as far as fragility, it might be do to the "wiggle" is less the shorter they are, think of a pendulum swinging, what is it called the folcum point, the longer it is the more it swings therefore it is more likely to swing a greater distance and is easier to break, just my thought----dam ceramic, you got me hooked. Tipping is still normal till about 90%, it works for me.:)
 

studiovap

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Hi folks, I've just received three new FC2000s with the grooves, I've had a quick look back through the thread, but cant' find exactly what I'm looking for, which is.

1. These are virgin, what's the latest thoughts on prepping them before use, torch/souak /boil etc?
2. Then to the wrapping, I aim to run a sub Ohm coil, because that's what I'm used to I use 68% VG.
I have 28g 30g and 30g Ribbon. what's the latest thoughts on wire choice & wrapping, Ribbon/round/Hot wrap/annealled wrap etc, bearing in mind the grooved nature of the new FC2000s?
3. and finally, running in times?

It'll take a lot to pull me away from my #200 0.7Ohm U-wicks, but I'm game to give ceramic another try with the new FC2000s, especially as the BD13 seems to be the ultimate unicorn.
I know this will of been discussed, but I'm interested in the latest and greatest info, so forgive me for asking, you know I'll appreciate it :)
 

vapdivrr

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Hi folks, I've just received three new FC2000s with the grooves, I've had a quick look back through the thread, but cant' find exactly what I'm looking for, which is.

1. These are virgin, what's the latest thoughts on prepping them before use, torch/souak /boil etc?
2. Then to the wrapping, I aim to run a sub Ohm coil, because that's what I'm used to I use 68% VG.
I have 28g 30g and 30g Ribbon. what's the latest thoughts on wire choice & wrapping, Ribbon/round/Hot wrap/annealled wrap etc, bearing in mind the grooved nature of the new FC2000s?
3. and finally, running in times?

It'll take a lot to pull me away from my #200 0.7Ohm U-wicks, but I'm game to give ceramic another try with the new FC2000s, especially as the BD13 seems to be the ultimate unicorn.
I know this will of been discussed, but I'm interested in the latest and greatest info, so forgive me for asking, you know I'll appreciate it :)

also what works good for me is to do an electrical wrap, if using the round wire, instead of hot wrapping. both work the same imo. so if your really good hot wrapping go for it, if so so, try an electric wrap. I believe I have a video on page 230 in this thread. the other difference is with the hot wrap you are coiling the wick before installing, with the electric wrap you wrap the coil in the mod. definatly the 28g and round wire, for me the ribbon was to mellow, I didn't get much of a TH with the ribbon. if you do the 28g round, I have found a 2/3 or 3/4 wrap to be good. the 2/3 comes in at .6 and the 3/4 at .8Ω. for me I have found that initially after making a wrap everything is good, then after about a half tank the flavor is better, so it does take a little time to get optimum flavor, but somewhere between all this sometimes I get slight expansion of both leads of my wires, this diminishes the flavor and vapor a lot, and I can always tell when it happens. I take a look at the coil with a magnifying glass and I can see the slight gaps, the trick now is to tighten them up without snapping the wicks. I insert a toothpick between the pp & wick then slightly stretch the wire to tighten, the toothpick keeps the wick from moving as you tighten. this happens more time then not with my ac-9 because of the spring connection. sometimes it also happens on the bottom coil at the neg screw. I would never be able to see these gaps with my naked eye, because im old, only with a mag glass. I run the wicks for weeks without taking out to clean, I just bry burn every other tank.
 

vapdivrr

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Hey vapdivrr, how often do you change your coils? I've gone over 20 fills and just changed for the hell of it. I don't know what a bad coil looks like.

probably 2 of the 4 set-up's I have stay together and I probably keep the coil and wick in for about 2 weeks before taking it out to clean. when I do this I keep the coil on the wick and rinse and torch, then re-install. the other 2 don't stay in long enough to worry about it because I keep trying different stuff with them. just tried something that's working quite well, will post below
 

vapdivrr

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just tried something new and it working really nice. first I love a thick wire and will try to use it whenever possible, the issue I get is 2 fold, one is the usual heat sink affect, which is rectified usually by doing a lower wrap. example, been using the 26g as of late, tried a 4 wrap on a 1/8 wick and although I loved the flavor, I didn't like the lag time, also the TH was missing. what I did was to reduce to a 3 wrap, which fired up a lot faster but lacked the flavor of the 4 wrap. another issue I get with these ceramics is you really have to be careful when tightening the pp, if you aren't careful, you can snap the wick. so I think I just killed 2 birds with one stone. i know a lot are wrapping these micro coils with touching coils in the drippers, by doing this it increases TH and it seems to hit faster because of the coils heating each other up. so i figured i would give it a try. i used the 26g and wrapped it around a 7/64 bit, keeping all wraps touching and tight with 4 wraps. i took out the bit and torched the coil and immediately used a tweezers to compress the coils together. i then sized up the coil for my atty, i wanted the wraps to be about half way between the deck and pp connection. now because the coils are just touching the middle of the wick you need to bend the wire up from the last coil upwards towards the pp, then make another bend to the pp, also you need to do this from the coil to the neg screw as well. basically you need to make some angles in the wire to connect to the pos & neg connections. another good feature of this is that when i tightened up my pp it didn't pull on the wick. anyways after doing some wire bending i screwed in the wick into the coils, basically i screwed the wick in the opposite direction of the coil. by doing this the coil kind of spread apart. it fit so tightly that some of the wick particals were getting scraped off. this made for a very tight coil, just as tight as a hot wrap. not sure if this would work on thinner wires, but being 26 g it held it shape. after getting the wick in the coils i had to re- shape a little bit more of the wires, but eventually got all connections right. also i was curious about hot legs, because from the last turn of the wrap there is a long bit of wire before making connections to the pos & neg, but because all wraps are touching there is no hot legs at all. although this set-up took me about an hour i think it accomplished a couple of things. one i was able to increase the TH on the thicker wire, two, it has no lag time, and three, doesn't bring over wick when tightening pp. probably one of the best set-ups i have going right now. flavor is awesome, vapor is awesome, and TH is just right
 

gdeal

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just tried something new and it working really nice. first I love a thick wire and will try to use it whenever possible, the issue I get is 2 fold, one is the usual heat sink affect, which is rectified usually by doing a lower wrap. example, been using the 26g as of late, tried a 4 wrap on a 1/8 wick and although I loved the flavor, I didn't like the lag time, also the TH was missing. what I did was to reduce to a 3 wrap, which fired up a lot faster but lacked the flavor of the 4 wrap. another issue I get with these ceramics is you really have to be careful when tightening the pp, if you aren't careful, you can snap the wick. so I think I just killed 2 birds with one stone. i know a lot are wrapping these micro coils with touching coils in the drippers, by doing this it increases TH and it seems to hit faster because of the coils heating each other up. so i figured i would give it a try. i used the 26g and wrapped it around a 7/64 bit, keeping all wraps touching and tight with 4 wraps. i took out the bit and torched the coil and immediately used a tweezers to compress the coils together. i then sized up the coil for my atty, i wanted the wraps to be about half way between the deck and pp connection. now because the coils are just touching the middle of the wick you need to bend the wire up from the last coil upwards towards the pp, then make another bend to the pp, also you need to do this from the coil to the neg screw as well. basically you need to make some angles in the wire to connect to the pos & neg connections. another good feature of this is that when i tightened up my pp it didn't pull on the wick. anyways after doing some wire bending i screwed in the wick into the coils, basically i screwed the wick in the opposite direction of the coil. by doing this the coil kind of spread apart. it fit so tightly that some of the wick particals were getting scraped off. this made for a very tight coil, just as tight as a hot wrap. not sure if this would work on thinner wires, but being 26 g it held it shape. after getting the wick in the coils i had to re- shape a little bit more of the wires, but eventually got all connections right. also i was curious about hot legs, because from the last turn of the wrap there is a long bit of wire before making connections to the pos & neg, but because all wraps are touching there is no hot legs at all. although this set-up took me about an hour i think it accomplished a couple of things. one i was able to increase the TH on the thicker wire, two, it has no lag time, and three, doesn't bring over wick when tightening pp. probably one of the best set-ups i have going right now. flavor is awesome, vapor is awesome, and TH is just right

Hey vap, good insight!.

BTW. This works really well with ribbon too. By keeping the coils closer together the wire lays flatter on the ceramic. If you use a 3/4 wrap you can easily tighted all wraps. The flat wire glides over the wick when tightening. I dont hot wrap anymore. Using a precoil wire and an alternating technique, of securing the bottom wire and then tightening the top and then going back and tightening the bottom wire with the top secured gives really good wire to wick apposition. This will get more difficult with more than a 3/4 wrap though...

Now I just need to get some 26g and see what you guys have been experiencing.
 

vapdivrr

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Hey vap, good insight!.

BTW. This works really well with ribbon too. By keeping the coils closer together the wire lays flatter on the ceramic. If you use a 3/4 wrap you can easily tighted all wraps. The flat wire glides over the wick when tightening. I dont hot wrap anymore. Using a precoil wire and an alternating technique, of securing the bottom wire and then tightening the top and then going back and tightening the bottom wire with the top secured gives really good wire to wick apposition. This will get more difficult with more than a 3/4 wrap though...

Now I just need to get some 26g and see what you guys have been experiencing.

its been working really well. before the hot wrap or the electric wrap came out, I did try sliding my wick into a pre made coil but never was able to get it tight enough, this was probably due to a normal coil in which the wraps are spread apart, making it more difficult to insert the wick, at the same time the coil would not hold it shape and it tended to loosen. but with a thicker gauge wire, and a solid coil in which all wraps are touching it seemed that the coil was able to maintain it shape and tension. before I actually inserted the wick I heated and squished the coil quite a few times. this made for the coil to maintain its memory. I heated, squished, cooled about 4 x's, I did the heating electrically in the mod. after this annealing I took off the coil to insert the wick then re installed. so you actually insert the wick when the coil is sort of connected in the mod? have you tried round wire coiled together with all wraps touching? I think it makes it alittle easier to insert the wick because the coils are solid. also, and this might be a little to early to tell, but it seems like I may not be getting as much juice darkening with the coils touching, it may also be the fact that the coils are actually tighter then with a hot wrap, not really sure which one but so far my juice is staying cleaner.
 

gdeal

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its been working really well. before the hot wrap or the electric wrap came out, I did try sliding my wick into a pre made coil but never was able to get it tight enough, this was probably due to a normal coil in which the wraps are spread apart, making it more difficult to insert the wick, at the same time the coil would not hold it shape and it tended to loosen. but with a thicker gauge wire, and a solid coil in which all wraps are touching it seemed that the coil was able to maintain it shape and tension. before I actually inserted the wick I heated and squished the coil quite a few times. this made for the coil to maintain its memory. I heated, squished, cooled about 4 x's, I did the heating electrically in the mod. after this annealing I took off the coil to insert the wick then re installed.

That makes sense that there is less "give" in the thicker wire, and because they are touching as you insert into the coil it doesnt deform. Nice.

so you actually insert the wick when the coil is sort of connected in the mod?

I preform the ribbon wire coil on a mandrel that is the same diameter as the ceramic. Then, I twist into place and do the alternating tightening technique.

have you tried round wire coiled together with all wraps touching?

Not yet with Ceramic (I did try one of those pdib micro-coil specials in a dripper though), I usually space the coil for ribbon depending upon the connection height of the post. I now need to do that kinky leg thing you mentioned so I can center touching coils to the airhole

I think it makes it alittle easier to insert the wick because the coils are solid. also, and this might be a little to early to tell, but it seems like I may not be getting as much juice darkening with the coils touching, it may also be the fact that the coils are actually tighter then with a hot wrap, not really sure which one but so far my juice is staying cleaner.

I guess this technique is in the batters box for the next recoil, so I let ya know how it performs.

I would think that with tighter coils, you get a faster response time, so your actual power on time is less. Maybe that is the driving factor for cleaner juice (less ceramic heat sinking)?


10 chars yo
 

vapdivrr

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Hey vap, good insight!.

BTW. This works really well with ribbon too. By keeping the coils closer together the wire lays flatter on the ceramic. If you use a 3/4 wrap you can easily tighted all wraps. The flat wire glides over the wick when tightening. I dont hot wrap anymore. Using a precoil wire and an alternating technique, of securing the bottom wire and then tightening the top and then going back and tightening the bottom wire with the top secured gives really good wire to wick apposition. This will get more difficult with more than a 3/4 wrap though...

Now I just need to get some 26g and see what you guys have been experiencing.

you know I have always been partial to my 3/32 fc wick, for some reason I have been trying different gauge wires and wraps on other devices but my aga stays with a 3/32 wick, and its been that way since feb. well last night I tried the touching coils on it. although I was unable to screw in the wick in a pre-made coil, I did hand wrap with all coils touching. because I was using 29g as I tried to screw in the wick the coil just couldn't hold its shape like the 26g did. anyways I did a like a 6 wrap @ 1.2Ω. incredible vape. it always surprises me how the little wicks perform. it produces massive clouds instantly, and TH is perfect. with the thicker wires im always doing a balancing act between flavor and heat sink, but with the smaller wick its always right there. if I only had one choice after all this time to have only one size of wick, it would have to be the 3/32. its just seems more consistent in performance. anyways this touching wrap on this wick is definatly better then it was before.
 

vapdivrr

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after vaping this 3/32 wick again going back to the 26g set-up is a little hard. I just cannot get enough TH with such a thick gauge, its just to smooth. I have even tried to off set the air hole, which really justs decreases the vapor. im not much on big TH's but its almost non existent in 26g. I have the 26g set-up at 4 wraps, I would imagine if I took off 1 wrap it would make it better but im worried about the resistance, at 4 wraps now its like .6Ω, doing a 3 wrap would most likely make it in the .4 range, haven't went that low before, I think .5 was the lowest. one thing with these touching wraps, you need to have the airhole directly at the middle of the wraps. in my ac-9 I had to raise the top cap off the deck about 1/8 in, same in the aga, both have O-rings so it doesn't really matter that their not all the way down
 
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