Fogger V2...WOW

[ScottP]

I am wanting to pursue using SS rope in building this, and am planning on buying some to have ready when my Fogger arrives. However when looking at vendors a question came up: how accurate is the sizing? I know that when you go buy a 2x4 board it is really only 1.5x3.5 or so. They just round up to the nearest whole inch.

So if I buy a 3/32 SS rope is it exactly 3/32 (2.38mm) or is it really 2mm converted to the nearest fraction? If I buy 2mm is it really 2mm exactly or is it 3/32 rounded down to the nearest mm? Is 2mm and 3/32 in fact the exact same size or are they really different?

The same could be asked of 1/16 (1.59mm) and the 1.5mm SS ropes. Same or actually different?

Anyone know or have some rope and calipers they can measure with?

 

[rizzo777]

Don't have a mic but 2mm ekowool fits right in the notch. It doesn't wick worth a damn in the fogger but I can try some rope. Where to buy it though? I'm willing to try anything to get this working. I came close with cotton...waiting for some to dry

 

[timk]

Timk: any leaks yet,? I just tried again and leaked 20 seconds in ..frustrated

Nope, no leaks or flooding. MBV 65/35 Banana eJuice.

Are you using the oring on top of wick?

 

[dwcraig1]

It's a v1 (modified a little), I just changed the 1st rolled cotton wick on my wife's Fogger on a Vamo @ 12 watts. It has a 2 Ω micro made with 30 gauge Kanthal, I have to say that I'm impressed with just how well it works. Just saying. My v2's are coming any day now.

 

[rizzo777]

Yes I'm using the white oring on top if it. SS is the only thing that's flooding. Everything else just won't wick

 

[Endor]

So has anybody actually figured out what that insulator under the coil actually does? Has anybody vaped with it removed?

It bugs me sitting there, and I just cant figure out what it DOES!?!?

 

[ScottP]

Yes I'm using the white oring on top if it. SS is the only thing that's flooding. Everything else just won't wick

If you are using cotton try to cut it flush with the outside of the deck ring.

Alternatively try NOT putting the wick through the wick holes, instead cut it a little on the long side and run it circular around the inside of the deck ring up next to the wick holes. Saw someone else mention that was what they did.

 

[ScottP]

So has anybody actually figured out what that insulator under the coil actually does? Has anybody vaped with it removed?

It bugs me sitting there, and I just cant figure out what it DOES!?!?

I >THINK< it is a safety feature that is there to prevent your coil from shorting out on the bottom of the deck if it is installed too low.

 

[nelsonm64]

I >THINK< it is a safety feature that is there to prevent your coil from shorting out on the bottom of the deck if it is installed too low.

well, if that's the case, out it comes when I get mine!

 

[craftmath]

well, if that's the case, out it comes when I get mine!

I removed the insulator from the inside well and it exposes a center pin which is the airflow "tube". The insulator separates that metal tube from the well. If those two make contact, then it will short, or at least it acted funky for me. When you tighten the fogger onto a mod, that exposed metal air tube moves and, in my case, it touched the base of the well. I would leave it there IMO. It's a pain to get back in too.

 

[rizzo777]

ScottP: do you have the V2? What are u using?

 

[Endor]

I removed the insulator from the inside well and it exposes a center pin which is the airflow "tube". The insulator separates that metal tube from the well. If those two make contact, then it will short, or at least it acted funky for me. When you tighten the fogger onto a mod, that exposed metal air tube moves and, in my case, it touched the base of the well. I would leave it there IMO. It's a pain to get back in too.

Dang... I was leaning towards ScottP's theory, as I just couldn't figure out WHY that thing was there at all (and really wanted to remove it), but it sounds like it does serve a purpose after all so glad I asked. Thanks craftmath...

 

[timk]

I got a little flooding on the ss mesh last night when I refilled it. After I put the fill plug back in and blew out the juice (out the air intake) it was fine. It sat full of juice over night and was not flooded this morning. Just figured I'd report. Not sure if I made a freak ss mesh wick or what, but this is working perfectly. I have another fogger v2 here that I'll be trying some cotton on. I'm going to see how long I can make this ss mesh last. So far it just keeps getting better though. For what its worth, the mesh is trimmed really close to hole, only sticks out a tiny bit and does not touch the glass.

 

[rizzo777]

Is the oring on flush or is it raised a bit from overlapping the mesh?

 

[timk]

Not sure I understand what you are asking, likely due to volume of coffee consumed this morning LOL. Here is a pic of my wick and oring on top. I screw the chimney down until snug and don't try to wrench down on it.

 

[craftmath]

That looks nice timk. I think I'm going to try mesh soon. I see that you have not screwed the cap ALL the way down. Just enough to get the oring and mesh wick snug.

 

[craftmath]

Dang... I was leaning towards ScottP's theory, as I just couldn't figure out WHY that thing was there at all (and really wanted to remove it), but it sounds like it does serve a purpose after all so glad I asked. Thanks craftmath...

Endor, I saw posts from other members on this thread (or another one... can't remember), where someone mentioned trimming the insulator down flush with the bottom of the well. Therefore, you would have more room for the coil inside the well.

 

[timk]

I have used orings alot in my automotive hobbies and have learned to never pinch an oring. These are low pressure vessles so it does not take alot of squish to get a seal, especially with silicone.

EDIT: Also want to add I just tried my first microcoil with cotton in the fogger v2 and it didn't go well LOL I'll try again. It flooded like crazy and tasted horrible. 2.2 ohm coil at 6 watts. Cotton was from qtip and I don't think I used enough. I will get some better cotton.

 

[folkphys]

I have used orings alot in my automotive hobbies and have learned to never pinch an oring. These are low pressure vessles so it does not take alot of squish to get a seal, especially with silicone.

Unfortunately, if you dont crank down on that o-ring with the chimney to seat it low enough, the top cap/sleeve wont screw down enough to fully compress the top and bottom plates between the pyrex tube. Fortunately, the other o-rings on the top and bottom plates do an adequate job of sealing the juice tank without that full compression.....so far.

 

[timk]

Unfortunately, if you dont crank down on that o-ring with the chimney to seat it low enough, the top cap/sleeve wont screw down enough to fully compress the top and bottom plates between the pyrex tube. Fortunately, the other o-rings on the top and bottom plates do an adequate job of sealing the juice tank without that full compression.....so far.

I see your point but I believe the ridge on the glass defines the overall install height of the top cap. In other words, I don't think the top cap is putting any pressure on the top filler hole plate cap no matter how much the chimney is screwed down or up. Only issue I could see if the chimney is up so high that you can not screw the top cap down to make the glass sit flush on the base.

EDIT: Ok, I was wrong after looking a little closer and I see what you were talking about. With the chimney screwed up a bit, the top plate does not come down on the glass all the way. This may actually be a good thing and there's a sweet spot. I wouldn't want the compression of the top plate and bottom plate squeezing on the glass tube. If it's up a tad, then the clamp load is on the metal parts and the glass kind of floats inbetween.