Just make sure the tank is tight. If it leaks air even a little you will loose vaccume and create leaks. Today is the first day i filled it without leaking but i will confirm on next fill.
Fogger v5?
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Just make sure the tank is tight. If it leaks air even a little you will loose vaccume and create leaks. Today is the first day i filled it without leaking but i will confirm on next fill.
Glad ur enjoying it. As far as the coils go its a little bit of trial and error but so far my experience has been with the coils close to the deck it seems to wick better (makes sense becuase the juice has less distance to travel) closer provided a little wetter vape. The further it was seemed to be slightly cooler and i could put more wick around the the base since the coil wasnt in the way which stoped leaking. Its such a fine line with foggers but so far all of them for me need a little tinker time to get right. I should note that i am using Koh Gen do cotton which i really really like. I now use it exclusivly in all my attys
Where's the fun in that?!
After fiddling this morning I removed the bottom band of wick and pulled more of the wrap wicking down into the grooves with a toothpick. And was able to stop the leaking finally due to raising the airflow control ring allowing a better clearing and by vaping it a while, now I can fill it almost all the way. Settled in at 22W. I found clearing it after a fill (inverting upside down holding a paper towel around the base and blowing to get the excess juice out of the chamber and air holes) stops it from siphoning. In other words if I don't clear it, it continues to leak. With unrestricted airholes and clearing it stops the leaking. It appears to me that when the airholes were restricted it was difficult to clear and siphoned easier. Now after filling, clearing and vaping for a while I can screw the airflow ring down to get more vacuum and juice flow and then screw it up for an airy draw so it appears to be working right but tends to be dry.
Since I'm using donuts, the center of the wicking is higher so effectively it is this technique with raised airflow control ring and rayon that worked:
Thanks dynoman2002
Overall I am pleased to be tinkering with it and was able to get it to work without leaking but still not where I would like to be on the wicking. It's just not flowing the juice without leaking like I can get with the Kaiser. I don't expect the vape ever to be as good as the Kaiser due to the heating element height relative to the juice channels and longer wick length but it should be a wetter vape than it is. But the Kaiser only fits one donut so the V5 should be nearly as good with a lot more volume. Just not there yet. I'll have to totally re-wick it. Love the top fill like the Kaiser but no tiny/jewelers screwdriver needed. My push posts are working fine. I like that the only tools I need to rebuild is a toothpick and clippers which I carry with me anyways. With that said, it still doesn't flow the juice like the Kaiser does without leaking. With a single donut in the Kaiser I'm able to throw 18W into it and get a better tasting vape than 22W on this dual donut v5 - better to me is a cooler denser wetter flavor packed unrestricted vape. In fact my kayfun with a single donut at 14W is doing better than the V5. And since I have the top fill mod for the kayfun, the only positive for the V5 so far for me is the push posts.
But it is fun to tinker. The others took a lot of tinkering to get right as well so with time I know I'll get there.
I like your positive outlook and your correct just keep playing with it and you will get it where u want. Just curious have you tried a standard kanthal coil?
Not yet, want to get the most out of the donut then I'll do a coil for comparison.
Still waiting on vape mail for my fogger v5.
I think I'll just ignore the top fill and use bottom same as I've been doing with the v4. I'm thinking first build will be 10 wraps 28 gauge kanthal for ~0.8 ohms.
Looking forward to using post holes, gonna make the build a hell of a lot easier.
I think I'll just ignore the top fill and use bottom same as I've been doing with the v4. I'm thinking first build will be 10 wraps 28 gauge kanthal for ~0.8 ohms.
Looking forward to using post holes, gonna make the build a hell of a lot easier.
Unless someone else's is different that might be tough, mine doesn't have a bottom fill hole.
Looks like the first coil builds I'll be doing on the fogger will be with Nickel.
No bottom fill im aware of but top fill works fine if you can get the juice in fast enough. The problem i was having with it leaking upon fill up was becuase the standard needle bottle took to long to fill with (releasing the vaccume for too long caused the leak) I got a glass syringe with a 14guage blunt needle and my problem was solved. (on a side not fill through the small hole on the top so the air can escape the large hole. Less pressure that way.)
Yup, no bottom fill. Kinda irritating, since bottom fill just works. Also, I could get a variety of juice bottles to fit the bottom port; top fill, not so much. Almost need a syringe tip. I have a few dripper bottles with small enough tips, though.
Machining quality on mine wasn't great. Some of the threading is a little crunchy (which may smooth out) and holes aren't drilled all that great. Had to work on it with a small screwdriver to get rid of the excess metal flakes off.
Post holes = huge plus. Took me minutes to throw a couple 10 wrap 28 gauge coils on it, with no real fuss. Ignored the wick channels, and just trimmed the tails to kinda fill the area between the coils and the chimney. Only gone through half a tank so far, with no dry hits and leaking only when filling.
Machining quality on mine wasn't great. Some of the threading is a little crunchy (which may smooth out) and holes aren't drilled all that great. Had to work on it with a small screwdriver to get rid of the excess metal flakes off.
Post holes = huge plus. Took me minutes to throw a couple 10 wrap 28 gauge coils on it, with no real fuss. Ignored the wick channels, and just trimmed the tails to kinda fill the area between the coils and the chimney. Only gone through half a tank so far, with no dry hits and leaking only when filling.
I'm waiting on my v5 (got two) to arrive from froginfog.
I'm loving my v4 and the biggest pain was trying to get the wires under the screws with two coils, I'm glad the v5 improves on this.
I've tried many different coils (resistances / wire gauge) to get maximum coil surface area so I can increase the watts, however I always seem to be limited by the cotton wicking (and the deck size), I typically can only manage max 23 W (dual 28g, 0.8 total) without dry hits with a 50/50 juice (added 6% DW). My current set up is having the cotton touch the deck with only a very small bit going into the channels (to prevent leaking and to hopefully improve capillary action).
The interesting thing is, based on Steam Engine | free vaping calculators is that with the coil surface area (of each coil) I should be able to push at least 15W per coil (30W) total to get into the 'cool-warm' vape area (166mW/m2), on my Kayfun lite+ I run at just under 200mW/m2 so there is a potential for a lot more power to be pushed through the fogger without getting a 'hot vape' - if only I could improve wicking. I am unsure, though, on the impact of dual coils within the chimney affecting the mW/m2 maximum that can be achieved.
I'm curious as what wattage most are managing on the v4/5?
I'm loving my v4 and the biggest pain was trying to get the wires under the screws with two coils, I'm glad the v5 improves on this.
I've tried many different coils (resistances / wire gauge) to get maximum coil surface area so I can increase the watts, however I always seem to be limited by the cotton wicking (and the deck size), I typically can only manage max 23 W (dual 28g, 0.8 total) without dry hits with a 50/50 juice (added 6% DW). My current set up is having the cotton touch the deck with only a very small bit going into the channels (to prevent leaking and to hopefully improve capillary action).
The interesting thing is, based on Steam Engine | free vaping calculators is that with the coil surface area (of each coil) I should be able to push at least 15W per coil (30W) total to get into the 'cool-warm' vape area (166mW/m2), on my Kayfun lite+ I run at just under 200mW/m2 so there is a potential for a lot more power to be pushed through the fogger without getting a 'hot vape' - if only I could improve wicking. I am unsure, though, on the impact of dual coils within the chimney affecting the mW/m2 maximum that can be achieved.
I'm curious as what wattage most are managing on the v4/5?
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I have that on my v4 (authentic - are there clones?), the chimney thread is very fine and 'crunchy', takes a few tries before it threads when screwing it back on - bit of a pain as it can move the wicks around while you're fiddling trying to get it on!
Ha, I almost hesitate to call it "authentic", just doesn't seem right. Then again, I'm usually using my Magma (clone) and Plume Veil (clone). Really want an authentic Magma; it's my go-to atomizer. Don't think anyone would bother to clone the Fogger at the price it's at now.
Cloners would also be hard pressed to keep up with all the revisions, anyway.
There are clones of the v4. I have two, didn't realize there were clones when I got them.
On the Kayfun or the Fogger, I don't even use the channels for wicking. Every time I've tried I've ended up with dry hits. I just trim the wicks, juice them, and run the ends down on the deck on top of the channels. Works pretty well with rayon.
Can any of you do me a favor and check if you have the same issue? I think that's the reason for the leaking on my Fogger v5, it looks like the tank isn't completely sealed because of the oring that should cover the filling hole...
http://i.imgur.com/TEn1nO0.png
http://i.imgur.com/TEn1nO0.png
On the Kayfun I never put the wick in the channels but even then on the clones the channels are so shallow due to inaccurate machining that nothing gets in. I got a authentic Kayfun from intaste.de and the difference is clearly visible.
Back on topic, I am discovering the fogger seems to be very sensitive to the PG/VG ratio of the liquid (viscosity) in terms of how deep you need to put the wick down the channels. Mixed up a new batch of liquid yesterday and added a bit more DW this time, left it on its side overnight and it leaked out!
ok people..noob here..hoping someone with top notch fogger skills could post a few pics for me..im new to rebuilding..i have a fogger 4.1..and i always have a hard time getting the wicking just right so i get flavor..but i also get dry hits..I hear alot of people talking about not even worrying about the juice channels..people talking about they wick it differently..could someone..or a few people post pics and show me what your talking about?? Cause im tired of these dry hits. and tired of spending MORE time than i feel i need just to try and get the wicking right
Check the Fogger v4 thread. There should be plenty of pics of builds there.
The o-ring should fill that gap when the top cap is screwed on and smashes down the o-ring. Simple test, put your top cap on and use your hand as a base and take a drag and see if it leaks. Also i doubt it would matter but my o-ring always has juice on it .
In terms of build - I have a V 4.1, and I won't touch the thing now that I have the V 5, since post holes make the build so much easier. In terms of wicking, they're the same.
I've had a lot of success completely ignoring the channels. I can't speak as to how it would work with cotton, though, since I use rayon. Cotton and rayon have quite different wicking properties. Also, coil diameter and wick diameter probably has some effect as well. All I can offer is what works for me.
I use a 5/64 drill bit or 2mm screwdriver to wrap my coils. They're basically the same size (5/64 inches is 1.984mm). Once I have a couple wrapped, I either slap em in the post holes and tighten the screws down (V5), or play around with wrapping the wire around the screws and pray they don't get all twisted and lose my patience (V4). On to the rayon.
Rayon, unlike cotton, works well when it's packed in the coil pretty snug. Less is not more, more is what you need. So, grab a bit of wick thick enough that there's a good bit of resistance when pulling it through. If you're used to cotton, and you think it's too much, there probably isn't enough. Then I trim the ends kinda short - about the same width as the deck. Juice em and use a small screwdriver to tuck them nicely against the deck, over the channels but not going in them, so I can put the chimney on.
After screwing the chimney down, I take a kook inside. On either side of the coil, I just see wick, no deck showing. Unlike a Kayfun, I do not leave the juice channels open, the wick's covering them up.
Like I said, that works for me, with 50/50 to 30/70 PG/VG. I haven't tried any max VG, but heavy VG juices run just fine. No dry hits, and no flooding, other than filling it.
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