GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

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Larzis

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Ooh! Pretty. Shiny.

My polished kayfun seems to have been mis sent to you by mistake. I will give you my address, you can just route on over here. Thanks!
 

jasl90

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So I got my 2.5 paps a little over a week ago and I've noticed it doesn't even hit as hard as some of my modified china mechs. All the contact points are clean but it's still performing less than stellar. Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking there could possibly be some gunk down in the switch that's interfering with the ground but thought I'd ask before prying out the derlin insulator

Strange... Mine kicks harder than anything else in my stable. Bear in mind that the battery contact points aren't the only parts in the electrical path that can get gunky.
For the top cap, make sure there is no gunk in the connection between the center post and the adjustment screw.
For the switch, take it completely apart and make both the button post and the inside of the switch base are clean.
Beyond that, check the cap, switch and tube threads.

Removing the delrin insulator won't do anything for you. It's not apart of the electrical path.
 

iPoosk

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Oh I thought the derlin spacer had to be removed in order to take the switch apart :3 That makes it way easier haha. Yeah, the positive post and 510 threading is all cleaned up as well as the topcap/switch threading and the tube threading. I'm hoping there's just some gunk trapped in the switch because I'm stumped otherwise. Thanks for your reply :)

Strange... Mine kicks harder than anything else in my stable. Bear in mind that the battery contact points aren't the only parts in the electrical path that can get gunky.
For the top cap, make sure there is no gunk in the connection between the center post and the adjustment screw.
For the switch, take it completely apart and make both the button post and the inside of the switch base are clean.
Beyond that, check the cap, switch and tube threads.

Removing the delrin insulator won't do anything for you. It's not apart of the electrical path.
 

jasl90

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Oh I thought the derlin spacer had to be removed in order to take the switch apart :3 That makes it way easier haha. Yeah, the positive post and 510 threading is all cleaned up as well as the topcap/switch and tube threading. I'm hoping there's just some gunk trapped in the switch because I'm stumped otherwise. Thanks for your reply :)

No problem... Just an FYI to keep you from making the same mistake I made... The nut that hold the switch together is reverse threaded... righty loosey lefty tighty
 

iPoosk

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Thank you again! I was just cranking on the nut wondering what was wrong :p Looks like the switch is pretty dirty so the culprit has been found

No problem... Just an FYI to keep you from making the same mistake I made... The nut that hold the switch together is reverse threaded... righty loosey lefty tighty
 

Idaholandho

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It's hard to do the pulse method to oxidize mesh because power delivery is instant (and this is with 28G wire). Do you want to post a picture of your setup and your coil? I wonder if you're having the same problem that was reported a few weeks back with your insulator sticking out too far.

I at s some point was trying to be fancy and pulse oxydizing my wicks. I now hate myself for the precious moments of life I wasted. I had a hand torch but thought I was more magical by pulsing. The taste is only a fraction better until you run a tank through and then the following tastes the same.

Where the hell you been buddy?
 
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Idaholandho

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Hi All, anyone know when the LUX is next going to be available? How often do they come up on the website? Thanks
I'm sorry, I'm on my phone and can't copy and paste the link. You will find the GP releases pin the updates thread and will keep us posted on all releases. I'm sure someone can post the link. Good luck.
 

Amirite

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I at s some point was trying to be fancy and pulse oxydizing my wicks. I now hate myself for the precious moments of life I wasted. I had a hand torch but thought I was more magical by pulsing. The taste is only a fraction better until you run a tank through and then the following tastes the same.

Where the hell you been buddy?

Oh you know, chasing unicorns, boiling filter wool (you made me paranoid btw), the uje... :)

The pulse method worked fine on my stealth, SD2, and even my Paps V2 but I was popping wires one after another with the Lux. I must agree, the torch is the way to go.
 
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negrete35

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Oh you know, chasing unicorns, boiling filter wool (you made me paranoid btw), the uje... :)

The pulse method worked fine on my stealth, SD2, and even my Paps V2 but I was popping wires one after another with the Lux. I must agree, the torch is the way to go.

Cant wait to get my hands on a LUX. :D
 

Idaholandho

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I love the whole process of setting up ss mesh wicks from beginning to end. Starting to fade a bit into eko/silica based though.
I will never use Nextel. I could care less what the masses are doing or how good it wicks. I will handcuff my ... to an ekowool tree before I use that crap.

Note - I am aware that ekowool does not grow on a tree :).
 
For one- next week is likely to be an announcement; For two- this might be the 'only' release of the LUX for a loooong time :(

I knew I should have bought one from the previous batch. Luckily, I have a LUX tube so I guess I can buy an ordinary 2.5 and make it a semi-LUX if I can't get one in the next batch. I really want a 18350 LUX mod though.
 

perseas

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Guys, few questions here. Is the center post on the spheroid adjustable somehow? can i make it a bit shorter? Plus what are mainly the differences between the Spheroid v2 1st batch (old GP logo) and subsequent V2s, is it worth to change anything?


It is steady, you can slightly adjust it to protrude a bit less, if you tighten the positive post, but I would refrain to do that in a v2 unit from the first batches, the plastic insulators could be deformed and create a short. The PEEK ones are stiff.
You can sand it down a bit to make it shorter, but check it on a Provari before you file it, to ensure it's making contact there too.

The differences from the first batch of v2 are:

EU certified 316 SS vs 303 SS
Calibrated threading vs plain threading
Electropolishing of the whole unit in and out for a better surface texture and smooth threads.
PEEK insulators vs plastic ones.
 
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