GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 2

Status
Not open for further replies.

illus101086

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 14, 2013
195
526
So.Cali
Great idea, I use a rubber glove instead of the tape to get the same result.

Do you recommend nolox or Vaseline on the threads of the lock ring for the V3? I never have experienced the lock ring issue on my V2.5 but have it happen weekly on my V3.


Just make sure you wipe all the threads and everything in there as well then go from there

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 

illus101086

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 14, 2013
195
526
So.Cali
Got some Koh Gen Do cotton from Amazon Friday. Good stuff, easy to cut a small piece and thread through a microcoil. Threads easier than cvs cotton does. It holds a lot of liquid and it doesn't add anything to the flavor. Seems like the clouds are bigger, to some that may matter. It also may last a little longer, normally I need to change wicks daily. When I took off the topcap to check my wick after a days use it was still clean and absorbent.
Thanks you guys for mentioning the Koh Gen Do cotten cause i usually do almost all my builds with cotton balls or twine even those i got about 40ft of ekwool and 40 ft of slica just lying around just find it to have the most flavor and just knowing its alot more of a natural product then the other two but god how i hate when i get a dry hit when i'm dripping it's like i'm trying to vape my shirt hahahahaha. But anyways i checked out amazon and found it all out of stock except one shop on amazon and they were selling a 60 pack for 76.64 which gave me a good laugh considering i found it on other sites for 12 dollars.
 

Idaholandho

Gone Fishin'
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 8, 2012
7,379
23,171
Reading Naked
Great idea, I use a rubber glove instead of the tape to get the same result.

Do you recommend nolox or Vaseline on the threads of the lock ring for the V3? I never have experienced the lock ring issue on my V2.5 but have it happen weekly on my V3.

Hello RC!
No petroleum or any grease products are recommended on the locking rings of the PAPS unless there is issue like above. The rings are designed to lock and unlock with a flick of your fingers and is one of the highlights of the design as well as an important reason GP switches stand alone as the best in the business.
Switches oxidize quickly and due to the moving parts. The best thing you can do is disassemble your switch and clean with soapy water and a soft toothbrush and reassemble. Completely dry before reassembly.
If you want to see just how dirty the threads are, take a q tip and dip in alcohol and wipe the threads of the switch.
Oxidation will cause the switch to stick a bit and please keep the threads away from lithium or petroleum products!

Enjoy :)!
 
Last edited:

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
Great idea, I use a rubber glove instead of the tape to get the same result.

Do you recommend nolox or Vaseline on the threads of the lock ring for the V3? I never have experienced the lock ring issue on my V2.5 but have it happen weekly on my V3.

Rick, as they said, we don't recommend any lubricant there, but if the issue persists, even when the switch is thoroughly cleansed, then contact us to return the switch and we'll check it or replace it. Keep in mind, that most of us clean the switches once per week, dust and sweat is gathered during continuous use and it is even easier now to take it apart than in previous versions. However, because of the 8 embodied air vents, it becomes dirty at a quicker pace now.
 
Last edited:

RickCain

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 14, 2013
1,354
3,369
Huntington Beach, CA
Rick, as they said, we don't recommend any lubricant there, but if the issue persists, even when the switch is thoroughly cleansed, then contact us to return the switch and we'll check it or replace it. Keep in mind, that most of us clean the switches once per week, dust and sweat is gathered during continuous use and it is even easier now to take it apart than in previous versions. However, because of the 8 embodied air vents, it becomes dirty easily now.

Yep, I clean all my mods each week (today was clean day) so I will see how it does. Everything is taken down to the last screw and soaked in hot soapy water for an hour then brushed with an old tooth brush - threads and all. Last all battery connections get a good polishing and then a soapy bath.

Since it is fresh in my mind, any thoughts on modifying the hybrid connection from the heron to the gpin so there is more surface area? It is very hard to get the nut and bolt clean and polished - GVC seems to cook on the joint from the gpin to the positive post. The means ultimately the positive nut and screw gets so much buildup they should be replaced regularly. I wipe them every other day with an alcohol swab and polish them weekly but after over a month of daily use I can see this will be a regular maintenance item.

To me it almost feels like suction when the V3 switch is unlocked all the way. When I do the same range of motion with the V2.5 switch they touch but don't feel the same. Could be the incredible tolerances you have or possible the lock ring on the V2.5 is more rounded :)


edit
This isn't a complaint about GP products - The only mechanical devices I use these days have GP on them and don't see that changing anytime soon. I respect P enough to give feedback that is meant to help continue evolving this incredible brand.
 
Last edited:

perseas

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Dec 11, 2011
3,442
17,927
Athens, Hellas
www.vapourart.com
Yep, I clean all my mods each week (today was clean day) so I will see how it does. Everything is taken down to the last screw and soaked in hot soapy water for an hour then brushed with an old tooth brush - threads and all. Last all battery connections get a good polishing and then a soapy bath.

Since it is fresh in my mind, any thoughts on modifying the hybrid connection from the heron to the gpin so there is more surface area? It is very hard to get the nut and bolt clean and polished - GVC seems to cook on the joint from the gpin to the positive post. The means ultimately the positive nut and screw gets so much buildup they should be replaced regularly. I wipe them every other day with an alcohol swab and polish them weekly but after over a month of daily use I can see this will be a regular maintenance item.

I have observed the accumulated gunk as a GVC addict myself and in some future batch we'll update the GPin to be made from SS, at least the part that touches the positive post to stop their fast oxidising due to the phenomenon of electrolysis that happens there. This has been discussed in VW forum previously.

Oh and one more thing... Christ - Perseas must be hating my guts by now!! ;)

The contact plate section inside the bottom of the heron - uses a threaded brass plate in the plastic to make final contact with the bottom of the positive pin that goes up to the coil..

After a few days the area that makes contact with that pin suffers a chemical reaction due to condensate and oxygen influx (I theorise it's some sort of electrolysis process occurring here) that causes build up of some sort of (I'm guessing carbon or an oxide) if left unchecked it will eventually cause current continuity issues and would require regular maintenance. I basically clean mine every few days with a nail polishing pad (nick from your wife's make-up box! ;))

It's not a problem just something that needs you to keep an eye on - take it apart and clean it now and then.

For future versions of the Heron - I would suggest that silver plating of that particular contact plate or even just using good old stainless steel - (just like the spheroid) would make it totally maintenance free..

Brass obviously knocks the socks of many metals when it comes to electrical conductivity - but even saying that I have never noticed a problem with atomisers that use a Stainless contact plate - like the Spheroid itself for example - when it comes to voltage or current issues - in other words stainless works just fine..

So I suggest keep the brass for the telescopic part of the bottom pin just to ensure good conductivity - and replace the final contact plate with either stainless or silver coated brass..

And that I promise is the last of my suggestions! ;)

It's noted! The same approach we did for Spheroid and we'll consider it for upcoming releases of Heron. Thanks again, every feedback is welcomed, it is part of a product's evolution.

To me it almost feels like suction when the V3 switch is unlocked all the way. When I do the same range of motion with the V2.5 switch they touch but down feel the same. Could be the incredible tolerances you have or possible the lock ring on the V2.5 is more rounded :)

Basically, the travel of the button is more precise now, because we redesigned the switch base to increase the accuracy of the vertical movement giving very low tolerance and we putted more support to the button using a thicker and wider spring, improving the conductivity as well. It is a click better than X's switch according to JKuro's tests:

screen_capture_1.png


Source: Mod Voltage Test Setup
 
Last edited:

qorax

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 6, 2013
12,652
41,477
Brampton, Canada
www.facebook.com
Hello RC!
No petroleum or any grease products are recommended on the locking rings of the PAPS unless there is issue like above. The rings are designed to lock and unlock with a flick of your fingers and is one of the highlights of the design as well as an important reason GP switches stand alone as the best in the business.
Switches oxidize quickly and due to the moving parts. The best thing you can do is disassemble your switch and clean with soapy water and a soft toothbrush and reassemble. Completely dry before reassembly.
If you want to see just how dirty the threads are, take a q tip and dip in alcohol and wipe the threads of the switch.
Oxidation will cause the switch to stick a bit and please keep the threads away from lithium or petroleum products!

Enjoy :)!

^ Doubly Triply SECONDED
respect-037.gif
 

Spydro

Sindoyen
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 20, 2013
5,835
22,113
nowhither
Sorry, just saw this post now. Using our FB GP Family group might be a solution to the forum favoritism issue. There are 143 members as of now coming from all different countries and original forums.

Except that some of us refuse to have a FB account.

Mostly just a lurker here, but have and love my GP products. Still trying to add a PAPS X, maybe a PAPS Lux (just because I want a 22mm too) and SnP V2 tanks, but I seem to always miss the vapordays to buy new. The few PAPS I've seen in the classies still available are mostly beat so not worth the asking to me.
 

pt91

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 26, 2009
901
2,073
AR
You are lucky indeed. Q and a few others besides myself are Prometey 2 fans.
I build my P2, Heron and spheroid in the same way. Butterfly loops up to the filler. I use ready wick 2mm in the little guy and 3mm in the big guys. Can wash and dry clean almost infinitely. I use juwel filler in the P2 and gp fluff in the GPs but they are both very good.
 

VapinBill

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 19, 2009
4,822
12,920
Michigan
You are lucky indeed. Q and a few others besides myself are Prometey 2 fans.
I build my P2, Heron and spheroid in the same way. Butterfly loops up to the filler. I use ready wick 2mm in the little guy and 3mm in the big guys. Can wash and dry clean almost infinitely. I use juwel filler in the P2 and gp fluff in the GPs but they are both very good.
Thanks. Good to know. I am currently using a cotton wick and GP fluff. When you say lucky, I am guessing this rba is hard to come by.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread