GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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Jerry J

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  • Jul 6, 2013
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    Earthquake in Vegas just after 3AM this morning... but not all things in The Capitol of Sin are extreme and this was no exception. Not at all like the 3 of them (of the many hundreds I have been in during my life) where my homes were seriously damaged.

    lvquake.jpg

    An earthquake in the Vegas area? I'm sure that nothing missed a beat. That photo that you posted was hilarious!
     

    Jerry J

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  • Jul 6, 2013
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    i guess no one has done this.... and they keep theirs all nice & shiny? maybe a clear jwrap might help?

    I bought an extra Lux tube that I keep bagged up for when mine gets at that point that I feel it needs a shine. Then I polish the one that I pulled when I have a bit of spare time.
     

    newyork13

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    I'm not an expert yet, but 2-2.5" works for me. Be attentive to how it's spread in the bell. It should be even around the circumference and touching the outer wall throughout.
    Good Evening Friends,

    I need a bit of advice regarding the Heron V1 I just received.

    I pretty much run 50/50 liquid all the time. I was wondering if anyone would suggest a good starting point for fluff, I'm using the GP V2?

    Thanks All!

    vape On My Friends!
     

    Spydro

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    Sorry all I guess I was unclear....
    Yes was thinking about chemically forcing a patina.

    Again I polish it it looks brilliant and then a day later it starts to look dirty...


    Spydro why no clear wraps?

    Just personal choice... I don't like the concept of putting a wrap on any GP (or on any PV/APV for that matter). My ten GP's have all been left natural to age as they will.

    That said, I do have one PV with a J-Wrap on it that was put on it very soon after I bought it brand new... the last ProVari 2.5 I bought that is a full size Polished. I hated it for the slippery fingerprint magnet it was, so it was either the carbon fiber wrap or the trash. I didn't buy the wrap, at about the same time ProVape sent a bunch of them and other junk freebies to me trying to make up for their very poor customer service (it didn't).
     

    hobbes4

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    I'm having trouble with my Paps SS V3/Heron combo but i can't figure out the problem. Seems like i'm getting a lot of voltage drop or something, it's just not hitting as hard and smooth as it should. I noticed that if i press certain areas or sides of the switch it seems to perform slightly better than if i press other areas but even then not as well as i feel it should. So, i thought it was a problem with the switch but if i use a different topper like a KFL or a dripper with the GP top cap it works just as good as when i use those toppers on my other mods. Okay, it must be a problem with the Heron then. However, when i fire the Heron on the regulated mod it hits great, when i fire it on a different 20x1 threaded mod it hits great, and when i fire it on my Lux edition Paps V3 it hits great. So, by themselves they seem to work great but as soon as i put them together performance lacks. Threads and connections are buttery smooth as with all my GP gear so i'm lost as to what might be the problem. Wondering if i'm missing something the GP veterans can help me with? Any help is much appreciated.
     

    StrikeIII

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    I'm having trouble with my Paps SS V3/Heron combo but i can't figure out the problem. Seems like i'm getting a lot of voltage drop or something, it's just not hitting as hard and smooth as it should. I noticed that if i press certain areas or sides of the switch it seems to perform slightly better than if i press other areas but even then not as well as i feel it should. So, i thought it was a problem with the switch but if i use a different topper like a KFL or a dripper with the GP top cap it works just as good as when i use those toppers on my other mods. Okay, it must be a problem with the Heron then. However, when i fire the Heron on the regulated mod it hits great, when i fire it on a different 20x1 threaded mod it hits great, and when i fire it on my Lux edition Paps V3 it hits great. So, by themselves they seem to work great but as soon as i put them together performance lacks. Threads and connections are buttery smooth as with all my GP gear so i'm lost as to what might be the problem. Wondering if i'm missing something the GP veterans can help me with? Any help is much appreciated.

    It's possible that the GPin is not making a good enough connection on the V3 vs. your other 20x1 mods. Not sure if you are already using it but maybe try the longer GPin to see if a tighter connection might work better? That's really the only thing I can think of since it hit fine on other mods.
     

    perseas

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    I'm having trouble with my Paps SS V3/Heron combo but i can't figure out the problem. Seems like i'm getting a lot of voltage drop or something, it's just not hitting as hard and smooth as it should. I noticed that if i press certain areas or sides of the switch it seems to perform slightly better than if i press other areas but even then not as well as i feel it should. So, i thought it was a problem with the switch but if i use a different topper like a KFL or a dripper with the GP top cap it works just as good as when i use those toppers on my other mods. Okay, it must be a problem with the Heron then. However, when i fire the Heron on the regulated mod it hits great, when i fire it on a different 20x1 threaded mod it hits great, and when i fire it on my Lux edition Paps V3 it hits great. So, by themselves they seem to work great but as soon as i put them together performance lacks. Threads and connections are buttery smooth as with all my GP gear so i'm lost as to what might be the problem. Wondering if i'm missing something the GP veterans can help me with? Any help is much appreciated.

    Make sure that the brass parts are clean and tight. Dissemble the GPin and clean it thoroughly. The negative contact screw of the switch has to be tightened with a screwdriver, if it is loose or oxidized, you may have voltage drop. The Lux v3 has a better conductivity than the SS v3. The previous comment is correct, a lighter pressure onto the battery creates voltage drop.
     
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    cliffy15

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    Good Evening Friends,

    I need a bit of advice regarding the Heron V1 I just received.

    I pretty much run 50/50 liquid all the time. I was wondering if anyone would suggest a good starting point for fluff, I'm using the GP V2?

    Thanks All!

    Vape On My Friends!

    I had previously been using 60mm x 17mm with 50/50 juice but have since switched to 80mm x 17mm with great results.

    I would start at 80mm on the long edge and if that is too much for you go down by 10mm steps if necessary.

    You could always take 10mm pieces and add them if necessary but it gets kind of awkward. much easier to step down than step up.
     

    hobbes4

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    It's possible that the GPin is not making a good enough connection on the V3 vs. your other 20x1 mods. Not sure if you are already using it but maybe try the longer GPin to see if a tighter connection might work better? That's really the only thing I can think of since it hit fine on other mods.

    Sorry, forgot to mention in my post that i'm using the device in 18350 mode with the short pin and AW batteries. It's already a very snug fit with the short pin.
     

    hobbes4

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    Make sure that the brass parts are clean and tight. Dissemble the GPin and clean it thoroughly. The negative contact screw of the switch has to be tightened with a screwdriver, if it is loose or oxidized, you may have voltage drop. The Lux v3 has a better conductivity than the SS v3. The previous comment is correct, a lighter pressure onto the battery creates voltage drop.

    I don't think it is the negative contact screw, it's on there tight and i upgraded it to the silver coated one. I'll try cleaning the Gpin again when i get home from work.
     

    newyork13

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    Cliffy, how does the switch from 60 to 80mm improve your results? Always looking for guidance.:)

    I had previously been using 60mm x 17mm with 50/50 juice but have since switched to 80mm x 17mm with great results.

    I would start at 80mm on the long edge and if that is too much for you go down by 10mm steps if necessary.

    You could always take 10mm pieces and add them if necessary but it gets kind of awkward. much easier to step down than step up.
     

    cliffy15

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    Cliffy, how does the switch from 60 to 80mm improve your results? Always looking for guidance.:)

    It really depends on the viscosity of your juice. Not all 50/50 mixes are the same. Some manufacturers have a total mix rating while others add flavoring (usually PG-based) to 50/50 liquid. My current premade liquids seem to be a bit thin (50/50 mixes ordered with extra flavor shots) - which is how I moved up to the 80mm to begin with. 80mm seems to be a tad too much with my DIY 30pg/70vg liquids (total ratio).

    With the 60mm length I noticed that I would sometimes suffer from overwicking or flooding depending on the temperature of the atty when I switched to KGD (it was fine with the thicker, stiffer SnC yarn). It seemed like that length fluff would release the liquid too readily.

    The 80mm seems to hold on to it just a bit better and allows the wick to actually transfer the liquid at its own rate. I have to be patient and fill it slower,though. YMMV. I noticed that noticeable increments were 10mm, though. 5mm changes never really seemed to change anything significantly.
     
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    newyork13

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    Good advice. I'll play around a bit with it. I use 50/50 almost exclusively. I've noticed that although I've come close to getting the Heron running as well as I'd like, I still run into juice out the AFC, or worse. Today the vapor dropped off and I opened it up thinking it was time to recharge. Discovered juice in the battery chamber. This was with a fluff of about 2.25".

    It really depends on the viscosity of your juice. Not all 50/50 mixes are the same. Some manufacturers have a total mix rating while others add flavoring (usually PG-based) to 50/50 liquid. My current premade liquids seem to be a bit thin (50/50 mixes ordered with extra flavor shots) - which is how I moved up to the 80mm to begin with. 80mm seems to be a tad too much with my DIY 30pg/70vg liquids (total ratio).

    With the 60mm length I noticed that I would sometimes suffer from overwicking or flooding depending on the temperature of the atty when I switched to KGD (it was fine with the thicker, stiffer SnC yarn). It seemed like that length fluff would release the liquid too readily.

    The 80mm seems to hold on to it just a bit better and allows the wick to actually transfer the liquid at its own rate. I have to be patient and fill it slower,though. YMMV. I noticed that noticeable increments were 10mm, though. 5mm changes never really seemed to change anything significantly.
     

    Slots

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    ok so I use my Lux all the time and it patinas very fast....
    has anyone ever used some of the tutorials i have seen of ECF on their paps?
    Would lovet o see pics!

    I finally found the copper mod I wanted to try it on.
    Picked up a $60.00 one to experiment with, just incase I ruined it :blush:
    I wanted stainless steel trim, and a copper tube that didn't have a deep etching on it, as I didn't know if it would show through.
    So, I picked up the ammonia at the store today, and I will soon be playing in the garage.
    Can't wait ... it better look just like the one in the video :wub:
    I'll take pictures, but I'll have to learn how to post them
     
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