What about stretching the little silver G-spring? Just a bit to lengthen it? Ive never done it, but if you can cut off to shorten.....
GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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I've tried this a million times to no avai...oh wait, were talking about the GPin huh? Nevermind, nothing to see here
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That was hard to do. I think that it shouldn't be recommended to mess with that spring. It literally took me ten minutes trying to get at it with wire clippers... then I chipped the cutting edge of two different nail clippers, then finally got it with the wire clippers. That thing is tough and made not easy to mess with.
It can be done, but those little suckers are tough to stretch!
You could find something to insert into the spaces of the spring and pry it apart a bit. Important thing would be not to get it too crooked. Its not just a spring, but a protective item. If there is a short it contracts and stops damage to your battery.
Good job!
Sincere, genuine and easy to follow. I was riding along with your enthusiasm.
If I didn't know GP, I'd feel compelled to check 'em out!
The spare switch insulator is a different size, though it's difficult to tell by quick glance.
Thank you very much Dave for this spontaneous review! I also felt convinced to have one, your zeal is contagious
On another note, the switch insulator has 2 ridges from one side, which have to face towards the battery to facilitate the air circulation between the bottom of the battery and the air vents in the switch housing. Like you said in the beginning, things are simple outside and complicated inside.
I just won the Paps V3 and when tightened shows a slight gap. Your V4 disappears! How cool!
Maybe it's because my top and bottom cap are polished??
Maybe it's because my top and bottom cap are polished??
Congratulations for your PAPS!
Yes, they are also made differently. The switch housing is visible in v3 and all edges are slightly curved, while in v4 the design of the switch is different, the polishing has been done with all parts assembled for each unit to give this seamless look.
TY, Perseas! I've not yet owned a PV that takes batteries, only egos, so I have no way to use it yet- most days I pick it up tho and marvel at the smooth threads.
TY again, it's wonderful.
TY again, it's wonderful.
Excellent review Dave – thanks for making it! I have a few comments:
All GPin springs are silver coated, even without the option for silver plated contacts.
The Delrin insulators for the switch are definitely different sizes (you might be able to see that one has less threading). In addition to swapping pins (mine came pre-installed with the short pin) I needed to swap insulators for my 18350 mods (because the button wouldn't move).
The top part of the GPin can be completely unscrewed from the Delrin insulator. It takes a little effort with the silver plated version since it’s a hair thicker than the plain brass version and fits in there snug. I suggested earlier that you can unscrew the GPin a bit from the Delrin insulator if you need to fit atomizers with a longer 510 center pin, so perhaps you didn’t get what I meant.
Thanks for that, I have fixed it. I noticed those ridges and figured they were to make it easier to pop that thing out with a flathead screwdriver. Hopefully I have even better circulation now!Thank you very much Dave for this spontaneous review! I also felt convinced to have one, your zeal is contagious
On another note, the switch insulator has 2 ridges from one side, which have to face towards the battery to facilitate the air circulation between the bottom of the battery and the air vents in the switch housing. Like you said in the beginning, things are simple outside and complicated inside.
I know, I just thought it was quicker to simply mention all of the silver plated items.
Thanks for the clarification. I did fully disassemble the GPin when I first got it and was trying to get my standard flat top battery to work. It wasn't necessary to take apart that far in the video because I was only trying to show the double pogo. To get something like my Tugboat V2 to sit flush, I backed out the whole black delrin. I didnt go into this or start showing various attys on it because it would have made the clip too long. There are a lot of other things that also were not included for the sake of brevity. One such other thing is that a well-made full copper mech has less voltage drop than a paps. I think this should be kind of obvious though. The paps is the hardest hitting SS mod I have tried, however, which is notable considering that this kind of conductivity is possible even with the GPin implementation and springs.
You're very welcome! You shall enjoy it more, when you put an atty with a 510 connection on it
Yay! Working well
WOW Stan! You don't stop to impress me with your builds! Well done sir!
You may use the fork to pop out the insulator as well.
You're right, the choice of materials is always a tradeoff in some sections. A copper mod has better conductivity than a SS one, but needs frequent maintenance due to rapid oxidisation. We chose to implement other factors to increase conductivity; the battery's poles are under constant pressure due to GPin, the tolerance of the threading is tight and the optional silver plated contacts help as well.
There is another method to remove the switch from the PAPS 4, which is indeed a very clever and handy way to do it.
Timbozero Method
You set the locking ring in the locked position and push the button with your finger and at the same time unscrew the switch; no need to remove the negative contact beforehand.
However with the handmade polishing and the goal of having a seamless look, the edge of the ring has become a bit sharp. Since for this way of opening the switch the user has to apply force to unlock, if they don't have enough experience or force in their hands, and if the switch is over tightened, there is a possibility to scratch their hand in the process. For that reason our official recommendation continues to be to open it like we show in the reference video. So, an experienced user can unscrew the switch with the aforementioned method in 3 seconds.
Timbozero Method
You set the locking ring in the locked position and push the button with your finger and at the same time unscrew the switch; no need to remove the negative contact beforehand.
However with the handmade polishing and the goal of having a seamless look, the edge of the ring has become a bit sharp. Since for this way of opening the switch the user has to apply force to unlock, if they don't have enough experience or force in their hands, and if the switch is over tightened, there is a possibility to scratch their hand in the process. For that reason our official recommendation continues to be to open it like we show in the reference video. So, an experienced user can unscrew the switch with the aforementioned method in 3 seconds.
Thanks for this. I used that method to quickly take my switch out to compare those insulators again. You are right, there is a difference, but it is so small it could probably be measured in microns. I can't imagine that a difference this small fixes anything that the spring loaded GPin couldn't adapt for already.
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